no heater opration?

First you'll need to make sure there's no blockage in the heater core. For the thermostat to cause a "no heat" issue, it would have to be stuck open. Though this is extremely rare, I've seen a few cases. And in those cases, the heat blowing would get hotter as the engine was reved higher, and colder as the engine idled.

This will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

If both of these check out fine, then I'd think you have a stuck blend door or leaking/loose vacuum line/solenoid inside of the HVAC unit. this will have to be removed and inspected.

Where are you getting this 130degrees from? If you have verified that the engine temp isn't getting over that, then the first thing to do is replace the thermostat.

We are not getting any "hot" heat or "cold" air. We replaced the thermostat and checked the anitifreeze. What else could it be?

Hi:

Is the blower motor working? If so, check both heater core hoses and let me know if they are both hot with the engine warm and the heat on.

Let me know.

Joe

My heater or air won blow when the car is at a idle . There is no heat or air comming out of the vents at all on any setting. There is several fuses missing under dash and under hood and I don't have a manual so I can try to buy all the fuses and put them in. I need to know which fuses go where and what each one is for. Can someone please help me?

Your saying the blower motor works ok at higher rpms? I'd have to check voltage at the blower motor connector, when problem is ongoing, at idle.

Note the diagrams. interior fuse box.

my heat is not getting hot... I replaced the thermostat ang radiator cap. The coolant never gets hot is just gets a little warm. the dip stick to check the coolant level after a while reads low or not even on the stick.... Please help I do not know what to check next

Stick for coolant level ???

no heat new thermostat
most common is heater core need flush


Check heater core hoses if both are hot , if not the heater core need to be flushed as a 1st step
these are the steps
WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE AND/OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE, USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP FROM A HOT COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE. WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP AND TURN IT SLOWLY UNTIL PRESSURE BEGINS TO RELEASE. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN CERTAIN ALL PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED, PRESS DOWN ON THE PRESSURE CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP.
Engine cool
lower the coolant level
Locate the two hoses running to the heater core
disconnect them at the engine side leaving hoses connected to heater core throw the firewall
use garden water hose and compressed air if possible
run the water and follow by air throw one side and out the other and vice versa
do that two to three times watching what leaving the heater core you are looking for the good flow and clear water to run throw
reconnect hoses
top off coolant system
good luck
let me know

is it heating up to normal temp?
and if so
heater core need to be flushed
Sorry I do not recall seeing dip stick for the coolant level
some have it for the washer fluid


Check heater core hoses if both are hot , if not the heater core need to be flushed as a 1st step
these are the steps
WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE AND/OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE, USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP FROM A HOT COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE. WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP AND TURN IT SLOWLY UNTIL PRESSURE BEGINS TO RELEASE. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN CERTAIN ALL PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED, PRESS DOWN ON THE PRESSURE CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP.
Engine cool
lower the coolant level
Locate the two hoses running to the heater core
disconnect them at the engine side leaving hoses connected to heater core throw the firewall
use garden water hose and compressed air if possible
run the water and follow by air throw one side and out the other and vice versa
do that two to three times watching what leaving the heater core you are looking for the good flow and clear water to run throw
reconnect hoses
top off coolant system
good luck
let me know

When we first got it the heat worked great. A few weeks ago it started only working on high, and then it just stopped working. Sometimes when I hit a bump it’ll turn on for a minute or two but kicks right back off. And the last couple days it won’t work at all.

Hello,

This could be a problem with ground 201, behind the right side of the dashboard. In the diagrams down below I have included a wiring diagram of the blower motor circuit for you. Please inspect this ground and make sure that it is clean, corrosion free, tight, and making good metal to metal contact. Please get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I have a 98 Durango that blows cool air when the heater is on. Temperature gauge shows normal and the small vent between the front seats that blows toward the rear seats blows hot air! Do I have 2 heater cores? Or do I have an air leak under the dash? I'll take any suggestions.

Thanks,
Greg

There is only one heater core, have you replaced the cabin air filter?

No I have not. Where is the cabin filter? Where is the heater core? Is it hard to replace?

Greg,
With all due respect, if you don't know where the heater core is, you don't want to go after it yourself. It's located in the heaterbox under the dash. It is a 5 hour job if your god like, average tech 8-10 hours, a d-i-y has it towed to a shop in pieces and pays double what it would have cost to just take it there to begin with.

Try changing the cabin air filter and hope it blocked up first. It is behind the glove, Let me see what I find out tommorrow and i'll update it

I can find a cabin air filter for your truck, nothing on location. Typically the are behind the glove compartment or accesible from the passenger side wiper cowl area.

Two things I am thinking, is there may be a build up of crap in there, not allowing air flow to you, a binding door or cable problem.

The heater only gets moderately warm. It has been getting worse over the course of the winter. What are the possible problems?

flush out the heater core and make sure the antifreeze level is full.

does this fix it? let me k nwo what you find..

have you noticed a increase or decrease in engine temperature?

In my 98 dodge durango when the truck is at running temp. i have barelly luke warm temp coming out of the vents and defrost,I changed the water pump over the summer and i just recently changed the therestat.Any ideas as to what it might be

Try warming the Vehicle, then carefully feel the heater hoses, are they both hot? If one is cooler than the other, You need to flush the core, or do a replacement job on the heater core. Also if the system has a heat control valve on the heater hose, make sure it is working! Also check the thermostat, and the temperature blend door, thats under the dash, in the heater plenum...You can flush this yourself, buy the prestone flush kit and install the tee in the heater return line. Disconnect the heater hose at the waterpump, clamp the hose in back of the tee you installed and back flush till it runs clear...20 mins or so.

I just replaced the water pump, upper and lower and bypass hoses.New radiator. Flushed the heater core. The temp gauge runs a little over half way between 130 and 210 on temp gauge.The heat blows cold. The heater hose on the drivers side is cool. Passenger side is hot. Is there air in the system? How do you bleed the air out. Thank you.

[quote:035583d8ec="Wifes 2 Goats"]I just replaced the water pump, upper and lower and bypass hoses.New radiator. Flushed the heater core. The temp gauge runs a little over half way between 130 and 210 on temp gauge.The heat blows cold. The heater hose on the drivers side is cool. Passenger side is hot. Is there air in the system? How do you bleed the air out. Thank you.[/quote:035583d8ec]


I have the exact same problem but when I squeeze my radiator hose (Upper) you can hear fluid moving around in the overflow tank I thought the cap should seal the system off I wish someone would HELP!!!!!!!!!!

I have this problem as well. I have looked at other posts and they all seem to suggest there is a blockage in the heater core.

remove the hoses to the heater core. then use your garden hose back flush the heater core.

I will attempt it this weekend myself. I will let you know how it went. right now it is a balmy 10 degrees outside.