hanging brake pads

Next time they start to drag, crack the steel line open at the master cylinder. If the brakes release, either the brake light switch is misadjusted and holding the pedal down or the brake fluid is contaminated with petroleum product. Evidence of that will be found by looking at the bladder seal under the reservoir cap. It will balloon up and be mushy if the fluid is contaminated.

caradiodoc

thanks for the reply. The brakes seemed to get tighter and tighter the more I used them until I was forcing the vehicle. With the front brakes basiclly locked up, I cracked the line running from the proportioning valve down to the front brakes and they then released (fluid sprayed out). The brakes not seem fine having driven the vehicle for the last two days. Thanks again.

That shouldn't be a permanent fix. Next time go all the way up to the master cylinder. Did you see any sign of bloating to the rubber seal under the reservoir cap?

I'd cracked the line 2 days ago after I sent the question and before I got an answer. Since I only opened mail this evening for your answer, I've not got a chance to look at the master cylinder.
Is it possible that the proporting valve could have been offset after bleeding the brakes and realighned when I cracked the line?

I won't say for sure but I don't think so. If the pressure-differential valve moved and got stuck you would have to open something in the rear circuit then press the pedal until the warning light turned off. Only Ford valves are not spring-loaded but those that are can still get stuck in corrosion that can build up. A good hard jab will usually release them but the warning light would be on if the valve moved.

caradiodoc