Heater not working?

There is a blend door actuator on the drivers side that needs to be replaced here is a guide to help see what to do with instruction in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Will do guys. Thanks again for the idea. By the way, I got the new actuator fix it this site is the best.

I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan. It was fine till I went to turn the heat on. There was no heat at all.

I ran the calibration test and got a code where the Rear Wiper LED flashed once, the intermittent LED flashed 4, 5 or 6 times. Of course the Rear Wiper LED flashes once before the other codes, 1-4, 1-5, 1-6

It seemed to me the code was saying there was a problem with the Evaporator probe (open or shorted).
I replaced the probe twice... Re-ran the calibration test again and got the same results.

I ran the cool down test and it failed. When it failed both the Rear Wiper and Intermittent LED's flashed at the same time.

Prior to all this everything worked, I live in Southern Florida, so don't need the heat often. I just randomly tried it. It used to work. Now none of it works. I need the AC!!

The fan works fine, I can hear the blend doors moving during the calibration.

Is there a way to bypass the "codes" and get back to where I was before all this happened?

Ray

was there any issues prior to the calibration??

Roy

there was no heat, I did not need heat. I just stumbled on the fact it was not working. Ray

were all the lights blinking before you tried the calibration??

Roy

Nothing was flashing, I only ran the calibration to get the heat working. this has occurred twice in the 12 years I have owned this van. In the past the calibration fixed it. Today is different.

Ray

All the flashing that is happening now only started after the calibration.

Is there a way to kill the calibration codes and get back to where I only had "no heat". I don't really need the heat in Southern Florida.

the reason for all my questions is background as you now have a failure and i do not think calibration is going to solve it.

did you do the basics for no heat?? coolant, thermostat, heater core circulation??. if all that is good, then we move to the inside for checking the blend door movement. calibration should take place after the problem is found, repaired and verified.

basics, basics.

Roy

Hi guys. If you mean "no heat" as in it blows cold air, feel the heater hoses. They should be too hot to hold onto for very long. If they are not, suspect a plugged heater core. They can usually be cleared by running water from a garden hose through them.

If you mean "no heat" as in the system turns off, replace the computer. It is the entire bezel around the radio.

If the heater hoses are hot, the temperature blend door actuator could be broken or disconnected. There is a position sensor on it that would not change so that would fail the Actuator Calibration test.

The Cool Down test can be extremely frustrating to get it to pass even when everything is working correctly. My record is 20 attempts before it worked.

I did check the coolant levels, they were fine. Nothing unusual at all, except for no heat.

I ran both the calibration and cool down. Both failed even after I replaced the evaporator probe.

I tried to kill the codes by disconnecting the battery for about 20 minutes. I now know the codes are stored somewhere.

Can I erase the codes?

Do not disconnect the battery. THAT is why the HVAC Computer has to be recalibrated. It loses its memory.

Ok, Is there a way to erase the codes to get back to where I was before all this started?

The codes go away automatically when the tests have passed. You can do that too by disconnecting the battery but then you gotta start all over. The Actuator test always passes on the first try if everything is working correctly so to avoid having to do it over again, I don't like disconnecting the battery. It's the Cool Down test that gives all the trouble. Don't assume there's a problem simply because the test doesn't pass. I can't speak directly about the codes you're getting but I DO know getting that one to pass is very frustrating on '97 and '98 models. Don't overlook the value in doing that test right after driving a few minutes at highway speed.

Thanks, I saw that on the site you referred me to .... I will be back at it tomorrow. Thank you for your help... Ray

1998 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

i have a dodge caravan and one of my belts is missingt from my engine. i believe it is the heater belt because my heat doesnt work is there such a thing as a heater belt? and if there is if i drive without it what will happen to my car?

Hi:
There is no heater belt. My guess is the AC belt is missing. The other belts would cause problems for you. The AC belt will not hurt anything except the AC and the defroster may be a little slower to defrost. As far as no heat, is the engine running at a normal operating temp? Also, is the blower motor working?

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Let me know.

Joe

Heater problem
1998 Dodge Caravan Automatic 200000 miles

My car heater doesn't work..it blows cold air. the car engine tempt shows it's at normal tempt. i dont know wat the problem is. When i add a coolant that is not 50/50 do i have to add water to it.

Get the heater going 1st, replace the thermostat and see what happens then get back

Coolant -what's your daily temperature?

Heater problem
1998 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 252k miles

Hi,
I have a '98 Caravan with just over 252k on it and my heater is acting up. The blower works fine - no 'bad' noises and seems to be right speed(s), but I usually (although not always) only get heat when the car is moving. No heat (most of the time) when idling - blows cold air.
Can someone give me a few 'first things to check'? I would appreciate it.
thanks,

I'll replace the thermostat that don't work check the heater control valve and heater core.

Hi:
Also, make sure the coolant level is full. Low coolant can cause the same problem. If it's full, as rasmataz said, you'll most likely need a thermostat is the engine isn't operating at a normal operating temp which is around 200 degrees.

Joe

I got in my van & drove about 10 miles (city) when I got to my destination I sat in the car for 5 minutes and the heat stopped and starting blowing cold air. Then driving home the van heated up for about 5 minutes then started blowing cold air again. About a month ago I noticed when I drove the car we had heat but when the car was parked but still on there was no heat just blowing cold air. Please help 8)

Thank you

Check the raidiator coolant level.
Also the thermostat may need to be changed.


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