Clutch pedal assembly

Hey, WOOZIEBEAR

It looks like the pivot has pooped out. Here is a diagram on how to reinstall it below. Look for a broken clip you might need to get at the dealer to hold it in place. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Same problem I had with clutch pedal on my 1999 Blazer. I did not want to take everything out to fix pedal. Left side was broken and pedal was hanging on one side of shaft at top of pedal. I used mini saw to cut right side and drop the whole clutch pedal out of the housing under dash way up there. (Lying on my back squeezed by seat. It was hard but I did it). I rebuilt the stupid plastic shaft set up with copper piping 3/8, plastic PVC, a cut up bolt and the existing spring and white plastic middle piece. (The whole thing was a plastic shaft spring type set up that has to slide in and out so It can click in holes when re installing). I did it with stuff lying around. Took many tries and throwing a chair, I got it to work same as factory but stronger. Slid it back into metal housing under dash. Re connected push rod and plastic cheap clip. Worked. You can do it.

Hey,

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out on the site whenever it can add information that will help.

Cheers, Ken

Five speed transmission. My clutch pedal broke on the right side of where the pedal fits into the pedal assembly. Is there a way to take just the clutch pedal out and not the whole assembly? Thank you.

Unfortunatly you have to take the brake and clutch pedal assembly down as a unit even to take it appart. I would look for a replacement from a wrecking or salvage yard unless you know a good welder.

I have had the clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder replaced twice. My very stiff clutch pedal continues with a squeaking noise. I can put up with the squeak but the stiff pedal is hurting my left leg in stop and go Seattle traffic. Repair shop seems stumped.

What about the throw out bearing, has that been replaced? Is the input shaft for the transmission clean and smooth? There is really nothing else it could be unless the pressure plate is bad and binding.

I cannot get to the other side of hole to fix it. I took out wheel well and panels under dash and cant find access to this hole so I can reattach bushing. I keep running into metal walls. Does this require a weld?

Take the pedal assembly out and either replace it or take the clutch pedal off and get it welded backup. Replace the bushing if need be.

Clutch pedal, sometimes fine, sometimes low, stick grabbing, fluid level fine.

Clutch master cylinder may be sticking or binding, or slave cylinder may be bad.

Started my truck this morning and noticed the clutch did not have any pedal pressure, went to the floor and could not get it to shift. Will this be a total clutch replacement?

Not necessarily, check fluid in master first it may have leaked out or the slave or master is bad or there could be air in system. Of course if you have someone help and can see the clutch linkage work then probably it is the clutch.

Thank you. Called a local shop and he pretty much gave me the same answer.

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken

It was the master cylinder. Got a new one installed and working fine. All together was $200.00. Do not know if this is a good price but it got me back on the road.

Glad you could get it fixed. Please use 2CarPros.com anytime we are here to help.

Best, Ken

while operating the clutch pedal it will squeak like an unoiled door hinge; first quietly but will get progressively louder and then the pedal will stick when depressed. The sticking when depressed usually happens at a stop sign when the pedal is depressed for a longer time but when the squeak is at its loudest it will happen while driving. So far I haven't been stranded with the pedal becomming totally inoperable. Once after the pedal stuck and I stalled a couple times it began to work with no noise for a couple days and then the noise returned. The longer the drive the louder and more troublesome the squeak/stickiness becomes. A cursory check with my mechanic determined that the pedal pivot point wasn't the issue and he couldn't hear any noise from the slave cylinder with a stethoscope.

Is this noise inside, or outside the vehicle? What is the service history in regards to the clutch?

the noise seems to be coming from inside, under the dash, drivers side. Sorry I didn't reply sooner but this is the first time I used this service and was waiting for a reply via email. I got the truck used last February and it has 91k miles. I don't know if anything has been done with the clutch. The fluid in the slave cylinder looks clean. It seems to have been well taken care of. The strange thins is that often times there is no noise at all, but when it happens it starts small slowly gets louder. When it first happened I thought something just needed lubricated in the pedal and the squeak was rather steady with no hangups of the pedal. The stickiness in the pedal is a recent development.

What seems odd is that the noise is inside, and that the pedal will stick. If the noise was outside, i would think you had a clutch fork pivot that was worn. The spring pressure of the clutch cover(aka pressure plate) is what returns the pedal on a hydraulic system. It would seem that a pedal concern, or a hydraulic concern, would not be able to hold back the return pressure of the cover. Have you noticed any swollen rubber parts, like the diaphragm in the clutch master cylinder. The thought would be that maybe something other than brake fluid was added to the clutch master cylinder, and made the rubber swell. I am not certain if there is a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, but if/when the pedal stuck down, and you opened the bleed screw, and there was pressure release, then possibly the clutch master cylinder is not replenishing for some reason. Another possibility would be to disconnect the pushrod from the pedal when it is actively squeaking, and see if it still squeaks when exercising the pedal. One possibility on this, is that if it stops squeaking, you also need to consider that the load was removed from the pedal and that alone may make a change. There is a bulletin that involves a pedal squeak, it relates to the clutch fork pivot i mentioned earlier, here is it for your reference.

#16-73-01: clutch pedal noise/squeak install greaseable stud - (mar 1, 1995)


Revision: 02/23/95

This bulletin is being revised to add 1992-95 model years and to update parts information. Previous divisional publication numbers were:

Chevrolet 91-197a-7c gmc truck 91-7c-164 gm canada 91-7050101

********************************************************************* subject: clutch pedal noise, squeak (install greaseable stud)

Models: 1984-95 chevrolet and gmc truck s/t models with borg-warner 5 speed manual transmission (ml2,ml3,mw1) and 2.2l, 2.5l, or 2.8l engines (vins e, r, a, 4 - rpos ln2, l38, ln8, ll2)

Condition:

Some owners may experience a clutch pedal squeak. This noise usually stops when a slight amount of pressure is applied to the clutch pedal.

Cause:

The noise or squeak is caused by a dry contact area between the clutch fork and ball stud. This results in metal to metal contact.

Correction:

Install a greaseable ball stud. Greaseable ball studs entered production december 1994 and can be identified by a grease fitting on the right side of the clutch housing.

Service procedure:

1. Remove transmission, slave cylinder, flywheel housing and clutch fork.

-complete removal directions can be found in sections 7b and 7c of the appropriate s/t service manual.

2. Remove the ball stud from the flywheel housing.

3. Inspect the flywheel housing (figure 1) and locate the raised ball stud mounting area.

-raised area will appear on the outside of the flywheel housing (figure 1).

-a mold parting line crosses this raised area horizontally dividing it into approximately an upper and lower half (figure 2).

4. Determine location for grease zerk mounting hole (figure 2).

-the hole should be located approximately 1/16 in. (1.5 mm) to the bottom of the mold parting line and within an area of 11/16 - 1-1/8 in. (17.5 - 28.5 mm) of the transmission mounting surface.

-a hole less than 11/16 in. (17.5 mm) from the transmission mounting surface may not enter the ball stud cavity and a hole greater than 1-1/8 in. (28.5 mm) may contact the threaded end of the ball stud.

-the grease zerk used should have no more than 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) of threaded length to avoid entering the ball stud cavity.

5. Drill a hole of required size (determined by diameter/thread pitch of zerk used) in location determined in step 4.

Important: the wall thickness in this area is approximately 1/4". Use caution to prevent passing through ball stud cavity when drilling through the inner wall of the housing.

6. Tap the grease zerk hole (thread size is determined by the grease zerk). Install the grease zerk and the predrilled ball stud (p/n 15679715).

-tighten ball stud to 35 lbs. Ft. (47 n.m.).

Important: thoroughly clean out all metal chips before installing zerk and ball stud to prevent plugging the predrilled ball stud.

7. Grease the zerk fitting until a small amount of grease flows from the end of the ball stud.

8. If the clutch fork shows signs of wear, install a new clutch fork (p/n 15704443). Reinstall the clutch housing, slave cylinder and transmission.

-complete installation directions can be found in sections 7b and 7c of the appropriate s/t service manual.

9. Grease the assembled ball stud lightly through zerk fitting. Grease zerk every 15,000 miles thereafter.

Notice: care should be taken to use only enough grease to keep the fork from squeaking. Excessive greasing can contaminate the clutch disc friction surfaces resulting in slip or chatter and the need to replace the disc.

10. Provide the owner of the vehicle with a copy of the document on the last page of this bulletin.

Service parts information quantity part number description required ------------- -------------------- -------- 15679715 predrilled ball stud 1 15704443 clutch fork 1

Well, there is definitely a noise under the truck. I really thought it was inside but it must have been just transmitted to the inside. When someone else presses the pedal I can hear it underneath. I'll check out your hunch on the noise being outside next week; soonest I can get it in the shop. Odd thing is that it's a lot of the time but not all the time. First thing in the morning everything's quiet. Once the noise starts it just gets stronger with time until the pedal starts sticking.

You probably think I'm being scatterbrained but at first when I got down near the pedals and pushed the clutch with my hand, there was an obvious noise that I'd swear came from under the dash.

I greased the zerk you mentioned but that didn't fix the problem either. The intermittent nature of the problem is annoying. The only constant is that when the noise does start it only increased in intensity and you can feel something in the pedal. At its peak the pedal will stick when depressed. So far its always released.

You have to look at what is in motion, the pedal assembly, the clutch fork, the pressure plate, and the clutch disc floating on the input shaft splines. If the noise is not confined to the clutch pedal pivot, the other pivot is the ball stud. Hydraulics are not usually going to cause a squeak, nor bind the pedal against spring pressure. If it hasn't stuck after lubrication, the ball stud could have been neglected of lubrication long enough, that there is some wear. This wear may be causing some issues. You only have so many moving parts, and if the pedal can be ruled out, it may be time to remove the transmission for an inspection.

I had the same problem with my S10 pickup. To fix it I had to change the clutch sleeve. When I took the clutch sleeve off and pushed the rod in manuelly it made the same squick that it made when I pushed the clutch in before I took it off. Also it stuck down when its supposed to spring out. The clutch pushes easier now than it ever has before.

my truck drove to work fine, when i went to leave the clutch pedal was stuck. we took off the slave cylinder and master cylinder., both of which had been replaced recently, as had the clutch itself. the end of the slave looked bad, a seal was missing, so we got a replacement. we are trying to install the slave cylinder and master, but after getting some air out of the lines, the slave is depressed and not moving.

How did you bleed it?

they were going to bench bleed, but had to connect the parts again to do it, they aren't hooked to the fire wall yet though

Not to sound crazy, but if they aren't attached to the firewall, how do you know there is a problem? Also, install the new parts and gravity bleed them. If there is still air in the system, then you may need to pump the clutch, hold it, and have someone bleed it while it's held.

the slave cylinder got depressed, to push air out, and did not return.. that's never happened the other time we have bled the clutch.

Did you try to gravity bleed it?

I had the problem where the truck would creep along even though the clutch was in. It got to the point where I has to start it in gear, otherwise I could not engage a gear. The problem got better as it warmed up.
I replaced the clutch master cylinder, checked out the slave cylinder, reassembled and bled the system down. (i.e. complete hydraulic system was disassembled)
Now, I can only dpress the clutch a fraction of an inch, and just won't go further. With the slave bleed screw open, I can depress the clutch all the way.
Could this be a problem with the fork ? Can I check this ? Do I have to remove the transmission etc to do this ?

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation.

if you can depress the clutch all the way with the bleeder open, then the master is ok, but the slave may still be seized. I would first remove the slave and make sure it is operational. If this is the case, then the problem will be with in the clutch it self, there will be not much you can do than remove the box and inspect it for a fault. I would be checking the slave first.

Mark (mhpautos)

yes, it's the only way we have to do it

You make a good point about the slave. However I completely disassembled this, and I am sure it is not seized. I just wondered if there was a way (trick?) to test the clutch operation without the hydraulics.

One more thing reading my origianl post, I should have said that the original problem (difficulty engaging gear, creep etc) would be less as the engine warmed up. My theory was there was air in the hydraulic line, which would expand as it got warmer and thus provide a better action of the clutch.

When you say "remove the box" you mean the gearbox right?


Thanks for the reply.

Cheers

[quote:b62f374c66="mhpautos"]Hi there,

Thank you for the donation.

if you can depress the clutch all the way with the bleeder open, then the master is ok, but the slave may still be seized. I would first remove the slave and make sure it is operational. If this is the case, then the problem will be with in the clutch it self, there will be not much you can do than remove the box and inspect it for a fault. I would be checking the slave first.

Mark (mhpautos)[/quote:b62f374c66]

If the parts are good, you have most of the air bled out, there are no leaks, and the slave doesn't move at all, something isn't connected at the MC from the clutch pedal itself.

Hi there,

There is no easy way to "override" the hydraulics. If the slave is OK, and you have good hydraulic pressure the problem will be with the mechanical section of the clutch. The gear box will have to be removed and the clutch inspected. Pay particular attention to the clutch fork, pivot, & thrust carrier on the nose of the gear box. as this slides and may be binding up.

Mark (mhpautos)

ok, will double check connections, could that happen if the mc was bad ?

Sorry it took so long to get back... I was dealing with a family emergency. Yes, if the fluid is very low, it could cause this.

I own a 95 Chevy S-10 with a 4.3 V6 with a 5-speed transmission. The clutch pedal has always been very hard to push down. We have replaced the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder. We bled all of the air out and the clutch pedal is still very hard to depress. The truck has 185,000 miles on it. The clutch still holds and grips fine. Just the pedal is very hard to depress. What can it be?

stiff pressure plate? how much free play do you have in pedal?