Heater blowing cold air?

check to see if the actuator in pic is getting gpower or not. both heater hoses should be about the same temp hot. the actuator may be your problem also the check the resistor for blower if it gets power on different settings then the resistor isn't sending to blower. These guides can help us with diagrams below to show you where the temperature actuator is.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

after the car has warmed up and you turn the heater on all you get is cold air,we pulled the heater core out and had it checked, it was ok we then replaced both of the heater hoses, the thermostat, reservoir bottle,flushed the radiator,replaced the hose clamps,radiator hoses,you let it run and it will start to heat up I then opened the bleeder for the cooling system we get steam and then water will com out close it and soon we get steam coming from the back of the motor it will then start to lug down like it is flooding it self I then open the bleeder and we get steam but the motor smoothies out. take car for a test drive and the temp will start to climb and it will peg the needle.checked the coolant level and it will be low top it off and you go through the same thing all over again.should we take the radiator out and have it professionally cleaned.

Try bleeding the cooling system it and check air blend door/actuator

where is the blend door actuator located on the 99 chevy malibu

See below

i replaced the intake gasket on my car put a new thermostat water pump in it and now when i crank it up it has no heat and it sounds like the lifters are knocking. i put the rods back in the same order am i suppose to torque the lifter bolts abd if so what are the specs

Since you put the rods back where they came that should be logically eliminate, no valve lask sdjusment on this one.

The no heat immediatly makes go to the water pump as there is probably no circulation and may be the source of the noise. Use a Stethoscope to check for noise source.
Take a real long screwdriver or bar with a handle. Touch it to each component's housing and put your ear on the handle, using it as a stethoscope. You'll hear where the roughness is and begin to isolate it.

1st off just got done replacing lower intake gaskets because of coolant in the oil, after which i flushed the cooling system with one of those cheap prestone kits and refilled. Started engine waited for a temp and checked for heat...NONE! Further more the car heated to around 215 never overheated though. So i changed the thermostat refilled and bled the cooling system. I started it let get a temp. checked for heat...NONE! Thinking i still had an air pocket i opened the bleeder it was a steady stream. At one point the resevior went empty the low coolant light came on so i added more immediatly while it was running. Shortly after that the resevior overflowed so I shut the car off afterwhich a nasty gas/steam evaporated out of the resevior and all the coolant disappeared. The thermostat opened once during all this I kno because i watched the gauge. I believe i have a blown head gasket and exhaust gasses are getting into the coolant. My question is... is this the problem and how do i test for it. If not this then what? And how do i test for it?

There is a block tester taht checks for CO turns purple if detected. That will tell you for sure. What 's oil look like ? chocolate malt? No white smoke from tail pipe

Thanks for the reply, going for the tester right now. As for the oil it was the first thing i checked and it looks like fresh, clean oil. As for the white smoke most defenatly, not as much as some cars i've seen but defenatly there. If the block tester comes up positive next would be a compression check to narrow it down, right? Again thankx a lot times are a little tough right now and cant afford to take it to the shop.

If you need to replace headgasket will be here to assist

Tester came in today, used it. Results were positive. I planned on changing both headgaskets if this were the case but i got to thinking this just indicates a leak. It could also mean a cracked or warped head or a cracked block right? And if so is there any definative way to tell which exactly is the cause? Any suggestions greatly appreciated thankx!

Only way is due cylinder leakdown test Need the equipment that's the rub know any techs you could borrow?

Thankx gona do some asking around try and find one, Ill let u kno.

Its been a while, been busy and still got problems. Couldnt locate leakdown tester went a head and tore it down gaskets ended up looking alright had the heads pressure checked... no leaks, and surfaced .005". New gaskets and bolted it back up, started it, ran fine. Let it get a temp and checked for heat... had it for half a minute then nothing. Also when it got to temp it started over flowing at the resevior for a minute or two and then sucked it dry and the low coolant light came on, i added more water only for it to do it again in a couple minutes. I repeated this for a while thinking i had an air bubble somewhere i opened the bleeder and no matter how long i left it open or when i opened it i couldnt get a steady stream of water. Again it never overheated and i dont kno if this is related but the gas needle fluctuates randomly between half and full. And after all this when u shut the car off u can hear the coolant boiling back into the resevior and it doesnt want to start agian right away you either half to give it a few minutes or give it throttle. Any ideas?
Thankx

For one, you are not to have the bleeder open while the car is running. The bleeder is only for checking that the cooling system is full. You may want to check the water pump at the weep hole on the bottom. My seal had went out on mine and it was only $13 for the part and I replaced it myself.

I have removed the two water heater hoses on the engine firewall side and the water is there on the inlet (thermostat side) but nothing from the outlet (when connected). My understanding is that it has to be one of two things, the coolant flow valve is bad or the heater core is plugged. How do I get to the flow control valve to check it (detailed info will be appreciated) and what's the easiest way to remove the blockage?

I believe your car has a blender door that determins when you get heat to the car. If coolant isn't passing through the heater core, it's plugged.

As far as trying to fix it, they make flush kits for heater cores. You can get them at any parts store. You will need to use the kit and a garden hose to flush it, but it's not hard to do.

Every brand of flush has its own instructions, so follow the directions on the can itself.

Heater problem
1999 Chevy Malibu 6 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 125000 miles
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when i turn the heater on the heater does not blow out hot or even warm air. i replaced the control unit thinking maybe it was bad. it still does not work. what else should i check

Ill try and save you some time and money here.

first get the vehicle to normal operating temperature, then feel the heater core hoses with you bare hands right by the fire wall.

do you notice one is hot and one is cold? neither are hot? both are hot? one hot and one warm?

post back.

The heater does not blow warm air at any temp. The thermostat is new still no heat. When the heater is turned on and driving car temp goes up to around 200 as soon as turn off or flip to a/c it cools down so that tells me thermostat is working properly. The heater hose on the front side of motor gets red hot to the touch however, the rear hose next to the firewall side stays cold. The front line was bled of air very little came out. Is there a valve that I can adjust to open it up to flow warm water thru heater core? is the hose stopped up? Is it the heater core ? Help me please it is getting cold here in the mornings now. Thanks !

That engine was prone to clogging the heater core from oil getting in the cooling system or the coolant (dex-cool) sludging up from either mixing with regular ethylene-glycol coolant or neglect.
Check the overflow tank (engine cool) for a brown or black sludge in the tank.
Secondly, make sure that you are opening the bleeder valves when you are adding coolant or air pockets will form and the heater will not work.
finally, pull the hoses off the heater core and put a garden hose on one of the heater nipples. Turn on the hose and watch for water to come out the other nipple.
If no water comes out the other nipple after about 15 seconds it will be necessary to replace the core.

I have a 1998 chev. malibu and I have no heat. I change my themostat, my heating coil, and my water pump, what else could be wrong.

If the heater hoses are getting hot, the problem should be with the air mix vent. It is not moving to the heat position.

The hose was change when the heating coil was change.

What I mean is do they feel hot. when coolant passes through them they would feel hot.

The hose is now getting hot, but cooler air is still blowing in the car, and I just notice that the value cover has water coming in it, never saw this happen before.

That means the air-mix vent is not working.

You mean engine valve cover has water in it? That is bad news. It indicates possible head gasket problem.

My heater starting making strange noises this week. On settings 4-5 it would blow regular then slow down and this would happen the whole time i was driving going high then low, as if it would turn off. Today it takes time to go on and then does not go full force, barley blows at all and at level 1-2 it shuts off. Can this be the heater(motor) blower resister? I've heard that this is a defect in 1997 Malibu's?!

This could definitely be the resistor pack. There are between 4-5 resistors that control the speed of your blower motor and sometimes they either go bad or become loose.

If you're up for the task, it's a simple procedure to replace them. If not, a service shop will charge you a couple hundred dollars in just labor.

If you decide to tackle the job yourself, I suggest purchasing a "Single vehicle" subscription to an on-line service such as "Alldata" or "Mitchell 1". These cost no more than $25-30 bucks and will provide you with step by step illustrations as well as helpful tips and tricks. They'll also come in handy on your next project.

Heater problem
1997 Chevy Malibu

My car heater has recently started blowing cold air instead of hot when the heat is on. When this happens I noticed my temperature gauge rises faster than normal when the heat does kick on ( sometimes It does) the gauge drops to the right level. Is this my heater core or my thermostat? How much will this run me?

Is the coolant low by chance? sometimes the coolant system can get air bound resulting in no heat and irractic temp gauge. let me know.

I'll check that and let you know! Thank you!