Transmission not shifting right?

The transmission is licked in "Limp Mode" and most probably there would be trouble codes stored in the TCU. It could be sensor , wiring or control unit faults.

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems


Please run down this guide and report back.

I have a 1996 Nissan maxima. When I shift from parking to drive it does not shift after I accelerate. I manually shift to drive all the way to drive1 but it just stays in drive one and does not shift. It is full of oil. I have Check it hot. I let the car warm up before I go. This happen all of a sudden when I had to brake hard to avoid a speed bump on the road. The car seemed to hesitate but the transmission failed to change from there on. Also the speedometer stopped working about a week ago. Don't know if that is related to the transmission problem. Thank you very much.

Yes, the failed speedometer can cause the transmission to fail to shift. Get that resolved first.

Also check the VSS and TPS sensors-This two gives the computer an input signals indicating the throttle and governor pressures-

I have owned 6 maximas, 4 of the 6 would not down shift in 1st gear on quick or sudden stop and go situations, and the gas pedal would be very firm unless you stomped on it to go, then it would jump to about 5500rpm and take off like a rocket. also 5of the 6 have a rattle on passenger side door or??. any insight would be appreciated

If it has a throttle valve cable to the trans, and the throttle is hard to push, then it may have a sticky valve in the trans or cable that is fraying internally.The rattle is something that will be easier to find if you have someone ride with you that can crawl around in the car a little and see if they can locate the noise

1995 Nissan Maxima mileage: 125,000. About 20,000 miles ago I had #1 fuel injector replaced on my car. This August they replaced #2. I recently took my car in because my transmission is not shifting right and was told that my #1 fuel injector is bad again. They cannot find out about my transmission until the #1 fuel injector is replaced again! Another $350.00. What can be causing this and do I have any recourse. I have always made sure to put good gas in my car and had all the service it needed. Except they also told me, it is due for its 60,000 Service, which will be another $350.00.... I can't afford all of this...

20,000 miles is a little soon for a new injector to go bad. What comes to mind is the possibility the fuel filter is letting sediment pass by which ends up plugging the fuel injectors. The #1 injector may be the first one on the loop. If the engine is not running properly, it would be difficult to diagnose transmission problems. The 60,000-mile service probably includes replacing the timing belt. Sorry we wish we could help you more.

I want to buy a used 1994 Nissan Maxima with 163,000 miles on it for my daughter. The car is in great shape, engine runs like a top but the transmission does not shift out of 2nd? or go over 30-35 mph. Could this be a minor problem ? Please help.

It is hard to say. It can be as easy as replacing the speed senor on top of the transmission, medium as to replacing the solenoids or valve body inside the pan, or a major overhaul if the third an/or overdrive is malfunctioning.

I power washed the engine and transmission of my 92 maxima SOHC engine type VG30E. I usually clean my engine/transmission twice a year. After this washing the transmission immediately began shifting very erratically, "i.e." upshifting and downshifting spontaneously as well as slipping out of gear. Have I water contaminated a shift computer or shift govenor? Will blowing all electrical weather connectors out with high pressure air be of any benefit? I've not experienced this before although this transmission was pulled and re-installed twice within the past 18 months. The car is virtually undriveagble at this point. Appreciate any thoughts.

[quote:e32bc0f0bb="nuy351"] Will blowing all electrical weather connectors out with high pressure air be of any benefit?[/quote:e32bc0f0bb]
that's where i would start.

is the check engine light coming on?

The check engine light never came on. I wish it had as I have my own OBD1 and 2 hand helds. Would make my life easier. I blew out all the weather connectors last evening but havent had a chance to road test the vehicle yet. I contacted the Nissan Dealer and learned a replacement Shift Control Computer will run $750 and change. Difficult for me to believe it's anything other than a short secondary to water contamination. None of my repair manuals (cheap ones) have a wiring schematic for this Shift Controler circuit. Will likely have to go to the public library to copy one. I am curious if there is a specific shift control relay under the hood that may have gone south, are you aware of a relay in this circuit?

You can run a self-diagnostic test.

Phase 1
Run engine to normal temperature.
Turn ignition switch to OFF.
Set transmission mode switch to AUTO, overdrive switch to ON and selector lever to P.
Turn ignition switch to ON, but do not start engine.
POWER indicator light should come on for 2 seconds.

Phase 2
Turn ignition switch to OFF.
Move selector lever to D, over drive switch to OFF.
Turn ignition switch to ON, but do not start engine.
Move selector to “2” position, set overdrive switch to ON, move selector to “1”, set overdrive switch to OFF.
Press accelerator to the floor and release.
Record POWER light flashes.

Come back with the codes and I’ll look them up on the chart.

understood, will do.

Tried to run transmission diagnostic algorythm about half a dozen times--never could get the dash power light to flash any codes.

I'm still focused on figuring out this shift control circuit. I'm still thinking I've contaminated something with water when I washed the engine and I'm overlooking some connection or relay. I wouldnt rule out the shift control computer as being bad or the main onboard computer as being bad for that matter. I dont mind replacing computers at all as I've got good after factory vendors with more reasonable prices but I hate to replace a unit not knowing if that is the system fault.
I'll keep cogitating the issue and let you know if I find anything more. I'll review this web sites letter archives to see if I can spot a like problem and remedy.
Will be in touch. Thank you for your help.

car will not shift into 3rd or od. The speedometer was not working so i replaced veh. speed sensor from junk yard. speedo is now working but still does not shift to 3rd gear. someone told me that revolution sensor can cause not to shift properly. The rpm needle does work though. I have not replaced revolution sensor yet. I also replaced the throttle position sensor. I also got a used a/t control unit but that did not change anything. I took car in for diagnostic test at a non-nissan place. He said he could not get a reading, that computer was not communicating with the car. Please help me!

Hi meniskus,

Thank you for the donation.

Possible causes of trans not upshifting to 3rd and OD.

1. Mis aligned/adjusted Inhibitor switch or control linkiage. Check if the indicator light in dash is working first.

2. No revolution or speed sensor signal. You already replaced the speed sensor and it is working now, but did you clear the DTC? Some tims when an error is recorde. you need to clear the DTC.

3. Damaged control valves.

4. Shift solenoid A or B.

5. Faulty high clutch or brake band.

You need to do a, line pressure test and that would allow you to know if it is pressure or clutch problem.

mmmm.
I didn't look to see if no codes at all was an option.
I assumed there would be at least an "all ok" code of some sort.

did the power light come on in the first step?

I'll check tonight and post again if I have any information for you.

Thanks for your response. If you mean the "Check Engine Light" when referring to the "Power Light" as the test protocol does the check engine light is illuminated whenever I have the ignition switch in the ON position. It naturally came on each time I ran the test protocol when I switched to ignition switch to the ON position as directed. It never gave me a make or break code flashing pattern during any of the test algorythms like I'm used to seeing with the older pre 90's computers.
SOOOoooo.......I'm still stumped as to being able to pull up a fault diagnostic code.
I also noticed I mispoke yesterday when I stated I had both an OBD I and OBD II handheld. I do not have an OBD I tester. Used to use the old paper clip maneuver for reading those codes.

ooooh.

It's the light with the letter P over it.
on your power/comfort switch.

you must of thought that I was crazy,
because as you said, the CHECK ENGINE light will come on anytime the key is ON and the engine is not running.

sorry about the confusion.

No need to apologize, so much technical language these days who knows what were talking about. Not like working on my 53 F250--whole different kettle of fish!
OK, now that I know which lamp to look for and where it's located I'll run the diagnostic again.
By the way, that 53 F250 is candy apple red with white diamond tuck leather interior and a Mopar 413 under the hood. She'll pull a stump or two if I need her to!
Thanks again for clarifying the test procedure for this old relic!

1992 nissan maxima downshifts eratically and cuts out every now and then. I also noticed that the car acts up way more when it is hot out and it has been in the sun for some time. In the morning on the way to work, when the air is cold (even after car is at running temp.) it goes much smoother. The transmission has a sport/comfort mode switch. When the car acts up, no matterwhat mode it is in, the sport mode light fashes randomly. I noticed today that if I turn the overdrive of, the problem goes away. I have replced the transmission, TPS, fuel pump, spark plugs, injectors, oxygen sensor, MAF, coolant temp sensor, ECM, TCM, ICM, speedo head. I suspect the speed sensor. It has been to 3 mechanics who gave up including the dealer. I have put in huge amounts of money.

PS, i wanted to tell you what you are looking for.
it wont be like what you are used to.

say a GM code 12 would be flash,,,,flash, flash.

these will be like morse code. long, short, short, short, short, short.

Hi oehley,

Thank you for the donation.

What is the model of your transmision, RE4F02A or RE4F04V?

When the Power indicator lights flashwes, it indicates an error has been detected and you need to retrieve the trouble code to find out what is wrong.

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE
NOTE:
Perform self-diagnosis with engine at normal operating temperature.

1. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Set transmission mode switch to AUTO position, overdrive switch to ON position, and selector lever to "P" position. Turn ignition switch to ON position, but DO NOT start engine. POWER indicator light should come on for 2 seconds.

2. Turn ignition switch to OFF position and move selector lever to "D" position. Set overdrive switch to OFF position. Turn ignition switch to ON position, but
DO NOT start engine. Move selector lever to "2" position. Set overdrive switch to ON position, move selector lever to "1" position, and set overdrive switch to OFF position.

3. Depress accelerator pedal to floor and release pedal. Record POWER indicator light flashes.

NOTE:
The term "Judgement Flicker" refers to light flashes of the POWER indicator light.

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

I forgot to inquire as to were on line I could find a transmission vacuum line routing diagram. I dont find one in either my Chiltons or Hanes. Havent been able to locate one yet with an online search. The reason I ask is I found one vacuum hose disconnected on my inspection. This hose is a small one maybe 1/4 in dia like the ones on the master vacuum control. it is coming off the top center of the transmission Valve Body cover closest to the firewall. I've seen some references that refer to it as a Vent but that would surprise me as the vacuum line has a U shaped steel connector fitting at the terminal end as if it is designed to fit into the intake manifold or another hot mettalic surface. Any thoughts?

I did the transmission test and it seems to be fine. It does 10 short flashes followed by a long flash. I have the RE4F04V. I noticed today that it does have the problem even when overdrive is off.

I'll see what i can find, but often the vent hose is attached to a U shaped plastic or metal pipe.

but normally the pipe is on a bracket keeping it pointing down, so water can not get into it.

Are all the 10 flashes same or is any in between that is slightly longer than the rest?

Did you perform the trouble code retrieval immediately after turning off the engine as soon as the POWER light starts flashing?

If no trouble codes are present, it could mean a fault with the TCM or its wiring circuit that intermittently fails, especially when warmed up. This could mean a loose or contaminated wire connection somewhere.

sorry, no pictures.

All ten flashes are the same. I have not tried to retrieve the code as soon as the light flashes but will do so.

I have replaced the TCM but I guess it could be the wiring. I will see if I can get a code.

Keep me informed of the outcome.

After a number of attempts, I did manage to turn the car off while the light was flashing and the diagnosis showed that flash 1 and 2 were long which looks like speed sensor issues. The dealer claims to have replaced the sensor in the speedo head and couldn't find anything wrong with the revolution speed sensor. I feel like I am making progress - thanks very much for the advice. When I unplugged the revolution sensor, it made no difference to the way the car acted...?

The first long blink is the starting indicator and if the next one is prolonged, it means a revolution sensor fault code.

REVOLUTION SENSOR CIRCUIT TEST
Revolution sensor is a voltage generating sensor and should be tested using a voltmeter set on AC scale. Check voltage between ATCU terminal No. 25 and ground while driving vehicle. Voltage should rise gradually relative to vehicle speed. At zero MPH, voltage should not be present.

Ok so when I turn the car on it starts just fine. I let it warm up for a few minutes and then go. It accelerates just fine but just won't change gears. If I throw it in neutral and then back into drive it will choose the correct gear. When car is 100% warmed up - as in at peak operating temperature there is NO problem and it changes gears smoothly as normal.

Hi there, check for any set codes that relate to specific transmission problem, and get a service done by a trans specialist, they will have a better idea as to any problem that the trans may have.

mark (mhpautos)

I got a revolution sensor and a VSS and a new instrument cluster and installed them and there is no change. Does the computer need to be reset?

Have you reconfirmed the trouble code?

Have you tested the wires for continuity between sensor and TCM?

After doing the self diagnosis again, I got one code - the second flash was long (VSS)
I began to check the speed sensor circuit and I started with cleaning the connection between the sensor and harness. I was just getting started on checking the output at the TCM but had to run an errand. To my amazement, the car ran perfectly and has done so for the last couple of days. Do you think it was the connection or maybe because I messed with the wiring harness under the dash to get to plug in my spare TCM for easier checking?? I am kind of confused as to why it is fixed. I unplugged the VSS and took a drive and it still performed perfectly?? I was just wondering....... I understand that the Revolution sensor takes over from the speed sensor when there is a fault with the speed sensor. Could it be that if there is an intermittent break in connection of the VSS while driving, is there a short delay in swithching to the Rev sensor which makes the TCM think for a split second that the car is not moving and causes it to kick down a gear or two before the revolution sensor or VSS takes over again??

From what transpired, I believe it was the wireharness that caused the problem and it could be near the VSS or underdash.

Recheck the connectors, especially those between the engine and TCM. Some could be contaminated or loose and if it is contaminated, problem might recurr when contact deteriorates again.

The TCM would provide a backup for any failed sensor and the blip was when it was changing to backup mode.

Hope problem is has been fixed permanently.

Have a nice day.