Non running Mountaineer

The injector's aren't pulsing that's why you have fuel pressure and you still have to spray fuel into the intake to get it to run.Which is dangerous by the way.So does it have fuel pressure when it's hooked up like it's suppose to to and not hot wired?Also have you seen if you have power to each injector key on engine off?Also you need to get a noid light to check for injector pulse you plug it in instead of the injector and crank it over watching for the light to flash.

This vehicle is for my Mother-in-law so I hope you understand. There were some wires that were "chewed" by "mice,chipmunks, who knows," but we got all of them secured and tested with a vom for continuity and they are all fine. At this point we have the pulse on the injector wires but not sure if it is when it is supposed to be as I do not have a repair manual for it. As far as the pump goes, there is power there on the wires but we elected to do what we are doing so that we can run it with another battery. long story, got in-laws "helping" on this. I have been working on vehicles for 43 years now and have some clue what I am doing but on this one I have been messing with it for over 3 weeks now and am begining to loose sight of the problem and cure. I am sure you have been in the same position at one time or another. I have been told the crank or cam sensor is the problem, they are both new but I know that does not mean anything other than the fact that they are new, doesn't mean they are good. Been there done that one a time or two in the past. Thanks for trying to help me so far.

So do you have a pulsing to the injectors when your cranking it to start it?Because you say you have fuel pressure and still have to prime the engine to keep it running.That leaves no injector pulse i would say the crank sensor is good since it starts and runs on a prime.DO you have any code's?Also you made sure all the fuses are good?

Yes, fuses are good and no codes. I guess I will take a good look at the cam sensor again. I tested each and every fuse, as far as the pulse on the injectors it is a steady resistance, no variations.

Steady resistance?You should have a constant power and a on and off ground while cranking you can use a bulb test light on the ground side of the injector harness then put the aligator clip on the positive side of the battery.Then crank it over and see if the test light bulb flashes.Do that on all the injector harnesses.

No flash at all.

There you go that is your starting point no injector pulse like i was saying before.So you have power to the injector just no pulsing ground?Do you have a constant ground?

Well I believe so, but you know as well as I do about Ford and their grounds. They come and go like the wind. MY GROUND is good, that I know! I really apreciate the help and the fresh outside look at this deal. If you ever need anything here is my email addy, my id or log in name here at hotmail. I have worked in salvage yards for years and I have contacts all over the country and can find you any part you may need for any vehicle any year so let me know if there is anything I can do. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks again.

Thanks for the parts offer i might just take you up on that someday.If you have a constant power with the key in the run position on the one side of your injector harness that is good.But if your saying you also have a constant ground on the other side that is bad.The ground side pulses if it stayed grounded constant the injector would stay on all the time.

Well we just took another look at the cam sensor and pulled the whole deal out of the engine and I found the problem, the whole thing needs to be replaced. At least you gave me a direction to go to. That helped alot. As far as the parts offer goes, that is open anytime, you helped me, I intend to do the same in turn. Feel free to get ahold of me anytime and I will get back to you. I will find it and tell you where it is so you can make the arrangements yourself. Cuts the middle man out of the picture. I have contacts all over the country so I am sure I can help you. 40's 50's 60's 70's 80's no matter what year. I have the contacts to get it for you. Let me know and thanks for your help and you have a great day.

Glad to hear you found the problem that's what we like to hear let me know how it runs when you get it going.

Thanks again for your help. Remember if you need anything get ahold of me. I owe ya one!

Your welcome i will keep you in mind if i need anything.

It is me again, okay here is where we are with this. Hot wire is live on all injectors and there is no power or anything on the ground the side. The light does not pulse at all, it stays on on every injector plug. There is no ground with the key on but there is with the key off. Any suggestions on this issue?

I thought you found the problem?Do you have any code's?Can you rent a code reader to check for them?

Did check for codes and there are none at all. And I thought we HAD found the problem too but it was not the whole problem. If we didn't have so much time and money tied up in this thing it would be going to the salvage yard but unfortunely it is to late for that now. I realize it is hard to figure out the problem thru the internet. I was an "Expert" on www.alleperts.com awhile back myself and tried to help people fix their cars, I had a great rating too but I got out of it.

Worse part about it is that by spraying fuel into the intake plenum it runs great, we kept it running that way until it came up to temp and it never missed a beat, but the injectors just will not pulse off like they should. Ran great before we changed the cam sensor and housing and after. That is the puzzling part of it. Light is on on the hot side of the plug steady with key on engine off and running and nothing on the ground side until you shut it off and then you have a ground.

Yeah you have lost the injector pulse for some reason i was thinking possible anti theft malfunctioning but i couldn't find for sure that the injectors were disabled with the anti theft.I asked another moderator that is better with mercury's to help out on this one.Mercury's aren't my strong point saturn's are.

Hello, This is a different expert.
I need to verify some facts here before going any further. Please don't assume or guess at anything.

1) You are sure that you have constant power to one side of the injectors with the key on?

2) Using a noid light you have no flashing light when cranking

3)You have correct fuel pressure using the cars own wiring

4) When you turn the key on the check engine light comes on for a bulb check

Please give me absolute confirmation on all those things and we'll see where we have to go from here.

Okay, yes to all your questions. I understand wanting the confirmation. I have tried to diagnose vehicles over the phone/internet myself.

If you have confirmed all that, then everything is pointing to a bad PCM but you would need to verify all power and ground inputs to it first and also the integrity of the injector trigger wires from the PCM to the injectors.

I assume you have confirmed that you have no security lights on either.

Okay, the left side of those showed up on here, if there is more that I should be seeing please email them to me at james8985 @ the heated mail thing .com.

NO security lights. Here is the story, vehicle was running with the keys locked inside, door was opened by a tow truck operator with a slim jim and vehicle was shut off. since that day the vehicle has not started and ran on it's own. that was 3 years ago, fuel lines were cleaned to remove any chance of varnish in lines and injectors. Mice chipmonks whatever got into vehicle and chewed thru wires, all the wires were checked and repaired in a proper fashion. It will run perfectly by spraying fuel into the intake manifold, it will run and come up to temp as long as you spray fuel in that way. Everything else in the vehicle will power up and work the way it is supposed to do as well. Thank for your help, I know how hard it is to diagnose a problem long distance like this. I have been beating my head against the wall on it and I have been turning wrenches since I was 13, I am now 56. I am just not seeing the problem and am looking for a fresh set of eyes or a differant perspective on this if you understand what I am saying.

I don't know what you bypassed but the security system CANNOT be bypassed

The green with purple trace wire in the left kick panel was hooked to ground. That I was told would bypass the alarm system.

The pcm is on the passenger side of the vehicle correct?

You may be able to manipulate the perimeter alarm system but the PATS immobilizer cannot be bypassed and it's job is to shut off the injectors. You're going to need a factory scan tool to diagnose that.

Okay, then I guess I have another tow job in store for this thing.

The purple wire you grounded bypasses the door switches but that has nothing to do with the PATS system if that has been activated.

The PCM passes through the firewall. The wiring is on the engine side.

Yes, I understand the pcm is inside the vehicle and the wiring is in the engine compartment. But on the passenger side or driverside? I hate Mercury's, they have to hide crap that the Ford models don't do. Just like the Olds Bravada and the Chevy Blazer, basicly the same vehicle but differant.

It's about in the middle, a little toward the passenger side. If you open the hood you will see a very obvious large bundle of wires going into it.

Okay, well thanks for your help thus far and I will let you know how we make out with this thing good bad or otherwise. I really appreciate all your help. Fresh Ideas always help on one when you can't see the trees for the forest if you know what I mean. Have a great weekend what is left of it.

You too, good luck