location of coolant temp sensor

Hello,

Here are the engine coolant temperature sensor locations for both the 4 and 6 cylinder engines along with ta guide to show you what you are in for when changing the sensors out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

Thank you for the information I love this site BTW.

Below the distributor, next to sending unit.

My car is the four cylinder two wheel drive automatic with 190,000 miles. It experiencing symptoms of a bad coolant sensor and I would like to replace it myself, but I cannot figure out where exactly it is located. A photo will help. Thanks!

Thank you for the illustration, it helps me figure out which is which.

Would you know the product code of the engine coolant temperature sensor for the my car? At Advanceautoparts I bought the ECT sensor with a product code WT5009 and it is not the same fit. They asked me if this is for the computer system or the cooling system.

O.E.M #37870-PK2-005.

I cannot find that code. The ECT sensor at Advance Auto Parts that I bought has a code of WT5009 which does not fit and the other one that I searched online was WT680.

those are the different companies part numbers they use for their systems, the actual OEM Honda part number is what i listed last post.

My car (4 cyl 96 honda accord ex) stalled when I pressed on the clutch at normal op temp, run normal when cold though. What I have done to it: cleaned throttle body parts, replaced egr valve, ignition coil, crank pulley, coolant temp sensor, spark plugs and wires. The car had no CEL, can't find any vacuum leak, and clutch still okay. I might change the distributor cap and crank ps (no code on it though). I also found the bottom chain cover was cut by the belt when replacing the crank pulley. Any advices on what I should do next?

Please see encircled item on the photo. Is that what I need to replace when my radiator fan is still on even after the engine is off? I noticed a decrease in engine power as well as increase in fuel consumption. Thank you for the help. what tool will I need to replace it? Thanks again.

no, faulty radiator fan relay would be the cause of that issue.

Do you have a photo where it is? Is it the same as the radiator fan switch?

the fact that it stalls is an idle issue.

what is the fuel pressure??

there is an idle control motor on the throttle body that could be an issue.

Roy

it is a relay, some may call it a switch though. it is located in picture below.

51 psi and I've cleaned and re-adjusted idle valve and the fast idle valve. Car only has the problem when warm up. Shouldn't idle problem be at all temps? Should I replace the idle control motor?

you are great and very helpful. Can we have the fan relay and the power window relay interchange? They have the same twelve volt amperage.

cannot clean and adjust the idle control valve. it is computer controlled.

yes, my guess would be the idle control valve.

Roy

as long as the pin outs are in the same places then yes.

If the stalling ONLY occurs when clutch pedal is depressed, it could be a mechanical fault. The thrust bearing of the crankshaft is worn and this can result in the crankshaft having too much side movement causing the stalling.

my check engine light is on and i took the car to emissions and it failed and the code given was p0117- engine coolant temperature sensor circuit low input. but when i went to auto zone they got a different code about an air sensor. i want to know 1) which is actually the problem ? 2) how do i know it has nothing to do with wiring?3)is it true that i can fix the wiring with electrical tape? 4) where is the sensor needed to fix located? 5) will the resulting fix let me pass emissions and result in the check engine light in going off?

p.s. im a young female trying to save as much money as possible.

Here are the result on the tests for the iacv: the idle seem the same when the connector is unplugged (failed), the voltage reading on the connector y/blk is 12.05V (passed), the resistant is 11.2 ohm and no continuity on either side of the terminals (passed). The valve passed it stand alone tests but failed the idle test. Should I go ahead and replace it anyway?

That code is for the coolant temp sensor do you have a 4cyl or 6cyl engine?

Check the valve clearances.

I would like to know the location of the (2) coolant sensors on my 2006 honda accord

Thanks Dave

Hi Dave, Thank you for the donation. ECT No 1 is located on right rear of cylinder head.

ECT No 2 is located at the bottom of radiator.

Where is the coolant temperature sensor located?

Here is a guide and a diagram to show you how and where the engine coolant temperature sensor is.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

I was wondering where this sensor is location within the engine so i can see the damage. I was told there are wires broken at the coolant temp sensor 2, but i cant seem to locate where it is.

Hi meiann, ECT 2 is locarted at bottom of radiator.

My wife said the Honda was hard to start and the SES light came on. She turned the engine off and restarted and it got her home without complaint. I read the code on it and it showed a 6. (ECT problem) I checked the shop manual and started going through the test procedures. The first problem is the ECT shows open on an ohmeter. I thought would be pretty easy to fix but I also checked the voltage going to the ECT. The shop manual says it's supposed to be 5V but I read 11V. The shop manual doesn't say what to look for if the voltage is too high only if the voltage is not there. What do you think? Thanks for your time. Jerry

Hi Jerry,

Thank you for the donation.

5 v is supposed to be supplied by the ECU to the ECT terminals and anything more means the ECU is bad.

Hi Need you to do some testing to find fault. Run engine to normal temp. shut off pull term on ECT measure resistence between ECT terms. 200-400 ohms. If not replace ECT if yes then measure voltage at term wire yellow/green to ground 5V +? now measure between both terminals 5V+? if 11V on both go to ECM pass side kick panel

pull connector measure voltage from term. D13+ to D22- if 11v then ECM faulty. Let me know Thnaks for donate