The check engine light came on and started blinking

Most importantly, do not drive the car with a Check Engine light flashing. That has the potential to turn a relatively minor problem into an expensive one very quickly.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

When the Engine Computer detects a problem, it sets a diagnostic fault code, and if that problem could adversely affect emissions, it will turn on the Check Engine light. You can get a general idea of the severity of the fault code by how the light acts. If the problem is intermittent and the light goes off while you're driving, that is the least serious type of problem. If the light only goes off after you stop and restart the engine, that's a little more serious. If the problem goes away temporarily but the light is always on anytime the engine is running, that's still more serious.

As long as I keep the reservoir filled, the light won't come on. But if the coolant gets too low, the check engine light comes on. I had a leak in the radiator and fixed it with stop leak, but the reservoir goes low at least once a month, provided that I forget to fill it. Is that supposed to set off the check engine light?

What is the code that you are getting. It could it the engine temp is off.

I haven't had a diagnostic run on the car yet so I don't have the code info. I can only tell you what happens when the light comes on, meaning that when I refill it, and get the light turned off, it doesn't come back on again until the coolant runs low like that again. So at this point the diagnostic is probably needed. Thanks.

Good luck

Computer problem
1998 Ford Explorer V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I'm wondering just had the car serviced mechanic says everything looks good. It drives great but just after service check engine light came on. I have the car in Mexico and am hoping it is just some kind of reset they don't know about down here. What should I do ?

THe check engine light will only come on if the computer recognizes a problem. What you need to do is have the computer scanned. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free, but I don't know what is available where you are. When it is scanned, it will identify where the problem is coming from. They can reset the light with their scanner. However, if may come on again. NOTE: Something as simple as a loose fuel cap can set the light.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

Ford Explorer Sport; Check engine light came on; code "fuel mixture too rich"; had light reset, came back on... mileage seems to be down as well.
What is the reason? How much to repair whatever is not working properly?
Also, in the event it matters, I park on a hill every night; light came on the first hard freeze.
Thanks!

Sounds like you have a faulty oxygen sensor ( 02 sensor). This sensor controls the air to fuel ratio. It may also be a clogged or faulty catalytic converter. This will also cause poor air to fuel ratio, which in turn will cause poor fuel mileage. Cold weather is harsh on the catalytic system so if there is any fault such as the oxygen sensor starting to fail, the engine light will come on quicker then if it were more warmer weather.

Really, there is no need for alarm as far as the vehicle performing well, but the fuel mileage will be down and the engine light will remain on which is quiet an annoyance to most.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for using 2carpros.com!

LEAN DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS: MAF SENSOR CONTAMINATION
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 98-23-10, Date of Issue: November 23, 1998

Related Ref Number(s): 98-23-10
ARTICLE BEGINNING
MASS AIR FLOW (MAF) - SENSOR CONTAMINATION - SERVICE TIP
APPLICATION
Model(s): Ford: 1990-97 Thunderbird
1990-99 Mustang, Taurus SHO
1991-99 Crown Victoria, Escort,
Taurus
1992-94 Tempo
1993-97 Probe
1995-99 Contour
Lincoln-Mercury: 1990-97 Cougar
1991-99 Continental, Grand Marquis,
Sable, Town Car, Tracer
1992-94 Topaz
1993-98 Mark VIII
1995-99 Mystique
Light Truck: 1990 Bronco II
1990-97 Aerostar
1990-99 Ranger
1991-99 Explorer
1994-96 Bronco
1994-97 F Super Duty, F-250 HD
1994-99 Econoline, F-150. F-250 LD,
F-350
1995-99 Windstar
1997-99 Expedition, Mountaineer
1998-99 Navigator
1999 F-250 HD,
Super Duty F Series
Bulletin No.: 98-23-10
Date: November 23, 1998
ISSUE
This TSB article is a diagnostic procedure to address vehicles that exhibit lean driveability symptoms and may or may not have any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored in memory.
ACTION
Follow the diagnostic procedures described in the following SERVICE TIP . The revised diagnostic procedure is a more accurate means of diagnosing the symptoms.
SERVICE TIP
MASS AIR FLOW (MAF) DISCUSSION
MAF sensors can get contaminated from a variety of sources: dirt, oil, silicon, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the sensor over-estimates air flow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and under-estimates air flow at high air flows (causes fuel system to go lean). This means Long Term Fuel Trims will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and learn rich (positive) corrections at higher air flows.
If vehicle is driven at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) or high loads, the fuel system normally goes open loop rich to provide maximum power. If the MAF sensor is contaminated, the fuel system will actually be lean because of under-estimated air flow. During open loop fuel operation, the vehicle applies Long Term Fuel Trim corrections that have been learned during closed loop operation. These corrections are often lean corrections learned at lower air flows. This combination of under-estimated air flow and lean fuel trim corrections can result in spark knock/detonation and lack of power concerns at WOT and high loads.
One of the indicators for diagnosing this condition is barometric pressure. Barometric pressure (BARO) is inferred by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) software at part throttle and WOT (there is no actual BARO sensor on MAF-equipped vehicles, except for the 3.8L Supercharged engine). At high air flows, a contaminated MAF sensor will under-estimate air flow coming into the engine, hence the PCM infers that the vehicle is operating at a higher altitude. The BARO reading is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) after it is updated. Other indicators are Long Term Fuel Trim and MAF voltage at idle.
NOTE:The following procedure may also be used to diagnose vehicles that do not have fuel system/HO2S sensor DTCs.

Symptoms
Lack of Power
Spark Knock/Detonation
Buck/Jerk
Hesitation/Surge on Acceleration
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175 may be stored in memory
OBDII DTCs
P0171, P0174 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2)
P0172, P0175 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2)
P1130, P1131, P1132, (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1)
P1150, P1151, P1152, (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2)

hello thanks for responding,the dealer does not have a code reader,hes small time works from home.
also there is a rumbling sound when you slow down,and louder when turning slowly left side.
dealer says sound is nothing unusual!
I like the car but fear it could be a potential nightmare,I could low ball him,and use saved moneyfor any repairs if he goes for it,he wants 2000,I was gonna offer 1200. please advise,

2000 dollar truck and he cant afford a $60 dollar code reader? if you cant decide and he wont take your offer just move on.

i would'nt buy 1 of these anyway even if it was cheap!

thank you ,I appreciate the good advice.
I will offer 1000 and he can take or leave theres plenty more out there.thanx again guys

thanks for advice,I think i leave this truck for another mug to buy,not in a desperate rush .
thanks again

1997 Ford Explorer 6 cyl

recently changed my tensioner assembly and now my check engine light is on and wont idle can u give me a suggestion why

Well, normally when anyone works on a car too quickly or not paying attention it's possible that they could bump loose or unplug sensors. I do that sometimes. Replacing a tensioner will not set off a DTC (diagnostic trouble code). You could go to Kragen and get an innova code reader for $70 obd 2 any car made in 1996 or newer has the newer generation of OBD which is called OBD2. Please buy it and plug it in to your car and then message me with the code or codes. my name is David Newton from Susanville,CA.

my check engine light came on after i spun out im wondering what caused it to come on

Hello,

Could be almost anything. You could have broke off a sensor, a vacuum line or any number of things. The best thing to do is to go by your local parts store and have them pull codes. Post codes here....

Could also be that some moisture got into a connection or your knocked a connection loose.


.

my explorer revs high on startup on cold mornings then runs erratically until warm what could be the cause please ???? this causes the engine management light to illuminate

get the check engine light tested for free at a local auto zone.. the code will tell you what is wrong. post back the code here and ill tell you what is wrong and how to fix it.

[quote:e7bd84b2ae="blackop555"]get the check engine light tested for free at a local auto zone.. the code will tell you what is wrong. post back the code here and ill tell you what is wrong and how to fix it.[/quote:e7bd84b2ae]
It has been checked each time before cancelling off but no fault code shows up the garage was actually the ones who told me to try here. They said that people on here may have more experience with explorers than them . Thank you so much for replying

alright let me take a few cracks at it then!

first i would like you to change the coolant temp sensor, better changing then goin through the hassel testing, cheap part also.

next you should clean up the throttle body and then check your IAC.

those three are the most common causes of cold start up, post back.

1-2 years ago had replaced the oxygen sesors. Now engine light is back on. Mechanics replaced and EGR or ECR (?) something. 2 days later the light is back on. They did something else at no charge. Again 2 days later the light was back on. Last week they replaced a DPFE with a used one. This time 3 days later the light is back on. In the meantime, my mileage is POOR! Like 6 mile/gallon. Otherwise, it runs great, and is in good condition. I have been driving this Explorer since 1998 and 20,000 miles.
HELP! I need to drive this Explorer for 2 more years!!!

Is the check engine light still on? IF so, what trouble code has been found?

After getting your message, I went to Autozone and had them scan it. (They are not the mechanics who have been working on it. Incidently the mechanics who have worked on this Explorer and our other truck have always been good.) Result came back of EGR faulty or malfunction. This is one of the parts which was replaced already. I understand that new parts can be bad, however does this point directly to the "part" or does the code lead you to an "area" to start looking? Would this EGR thing play a big part in my poor fuel mileage? By the way, I do not see discolored exhaust, or leaks under it at any time.

I failed the emissions testing because of my DPFE (or emissions feedback pressure sensor). I replaced it, unhooked the battery to reset the "check engine light". But the next day when I went for testing I was told my PCM had not finish cycling, and was incomplete. Come back and test another day. How long after the battery pull does it take to reset the PCM? I dont have a scan tool to reset it so my only option was this method.

you would need to leave the battery cables off for at least 5 minutes ... but this will only delete DTC's from KAM... (keep alive memory) these are minor fault codes ... some code's will not delete by removing battery on some vehicle's ... take the car to a good autopart's store .... most good one's will read and delete for free ?? and by cycling .. he mat have meant the PCM .. was still in it's re-learn state .. in which case you just need to drive the vehicle around for a while

I know you have no scan tool .. but this is a ford recomended drive cycle ..
OBD-II Drive Cycle
NOTE:The IAT PID must be between 50-100°F (10-38°C) during the OBD-II drive cycle to enter into all the OBD-II monitors. The FLI PID must be between 15% and 85% at all times.

Drive in stop-and-go traffic with at least 4 idle periods (30 seconds each) while observing the status of the OBD-II monitor on the scan tool. If the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S), Evaporative (EVAP) emission, secondary Air (AIR) (if applicable) or catalyst efficiency monitor have not completed, drive on the highway at a constant speed over 40 mph not to exceed 65 mph for up to 15 minutes. Heavy accelerations, sudden decelerations and wide open throttles are not recommended. If the scan tool sends out a three pulse beep at any time, the OBD-II drive cycle has completed.
NOTE:Vehicles equipped with the EVAP purge flow system or EVAP vapor management flow system monitor do not require EVAP monitor completion to clear the DTC P1000.

If the EGR, HO2S, EVAP, secondary AIR (if applicable) or catalyst efficiency monitor has not completed, perform the corresponding monitor verification drive cycle. See MONITOR REPAIR VERIFICATION DRIVE CYCLES.
Bring the vehicle to a stop and retrieve Continuous Memory DTCs to verify the DTC P1000 has been erased.

Thanks Dave . Great Advice.

[quote:3d6c13fe6f="xshawx"]Thanks Dave . Great Advice.[/quote:3d6c13fe6f] no problem .anytime .my crazy hat deserves a vote if nothing else ...ha ha