no spark. I think it has a electronic distributor?

Measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire to the distributor or any injector during cranking. If you find 0 volts, suspect the camshaft position sensor in the distributor or the crankshaft position sensor.

The ignition coil is inside the distributor.

caradiodoc

I measured the voltage at the dark green/orange wire at both the injector and the distributor and it was 12v during cranking. What should I check now? thanks

That means the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor are working. That leaves the ignition coil inside the distributor or the Engine Computer is not firing the coil. If you have access to a scanner that can fire the coil, that will tell whether or not it is capable of developing a spark. Otherwise I would lean more toward the distributor since the computers don't really cause a lot of trouble.

caradiodoc

I get linking error on scanner. Can I do a resistance check on coil primary and secondary, also can I check computer signal to coil with my meter? A wiring diagram of these circuits would be great. I am going to check and make sure the rotor spins too, thanks!

There's an electronic trigger circuit embedded inside the distributor so there's no way to measure the coil. The coil is not available separately either. The only way to replace it is to replace the distributor.

Can you get me a wiring diagram for the distributor on a 98 dodge stratus 2.5l engine. I want to check in-coming wires before replacing the distributor. thanks!

The only circuit that could have a problem is the black / gray wire. All the rest have to be working for there to be 12 volts on the dark green / orange wire. That voltage comes from the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay when the cam and crank sensors are working. You would need an oscilloscope to view the signal on that wire to see if the Engine Computer is trying to fire the coil.

I don't have a oscilliscope but could really use one. I have analog meter, a 12v LED light, and a clamp around induction strobe timing light. Can I check pulse on that black/gray wire with any of these? thanks

Measuring the black/gray wire with a volt meter, It seems that it is always grounded. Is this normal?

Don't know. I never measured it so I don't know what to expect. If the computer sends a very short 12 volt pulse to tell the distributor when to fire, then the average voltage would be very low, probably too low to see with an analog meter. If something is shorted in the distributor, that could short out the pulse coming from the computer so there would be nothing to see with a scope. I never did any of that testing. I just replaced the distributor and sent the owner on his way.

I took off distributor and did a primary and secondary resistance check on the coil and it was within specs, but there could still be a problem with the distributor assembly. I checked the cap for resistance between button and coil tower and I was 15,000 ohms, it is suppose to be around 5,000ohms. I am going to put the distributor back on and check for spark with cap off at coil output.

I have some good news, I get spark at coil output, but not out of cap to plugs, it has a new rotor. I am going to buy a cap and see what happens.

I've got my fingers and toes crossed!

I put the new cap on and I still don't get spark to come out at individual plug wires, I think its not jumping from rotor to cap. It still gets a good fast repeating jolt at the coil tower with cap off. Now I check the coil output and find out the spark won't jump a gap, but I get a good jolt, so thats why nothing is leaving the cap. Do you think the spark is take a shortcut somewhere in coil assembly? I get a jolt only exiting the coil and touching it direct, NO JUMP. What do you think is going on? thanks

Well, that would certainly indicate the computer is working. Getting jolted is not a test I would care to try but it's a dandy observation. As a former tv repairman, I've been jolted numerous times from charged up picture tubes. The last one was with 32,000 volts that blew me off my stool and curled my hair. Well, maybe not my hair, but I did land on my but t on the floor!

It only takes a few hundred volts to feel a ferocious shock. That is about the voltage you will get when the magnetic field in the coil primary winding collapses. That spike is what is supposed to induce the really high voltage in the coil secondary winding. Based on your observations, it sounds like the coil is defective. According to the service manual, you must replace the entire distributor. If that is correct, you won't be able to buy just a new coil.

caradiodoc

I'm going to put a distributor/coil on it next, it should be the last part I need. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I bought a new distributor on ebay for $120. I put it on and it runs great!

Dandy. Happy to hear the good news.

Have trouble again with spark, and It quit and wont fire up. The new distributor could be good but don't know for sure. I checked for power at an injector (DG/ORG) again, and there is none. I can't believe this is happening. Any ideas?

GRRR! I know the feeling. Start by checking for spread terminals in the electrical connectors. Logic would dictate the new part is the most likely suspect but don't overlook the crankshaft position sensor.

I checked the power at several locations and there is none. I think the ASD is shutting down every thing. Power leaving ASD fuse, I don't see the ASD relay though. Do you know where the relay is located?

I will plan on checking cam and crank signals next.

Second one down on the left side.

I found the ASD relay it was not that visible, it was under the intake duct. I tested Cam and Crank 8v supply and signals wires on both sensors and they tested good. I forgot that the power to coil and injectors had to be during cranking, so every thing is fine including the computer. I checked spark at coil tower again and thats where the problem is, the fact that the spark is to weak and not jumping. So I took the distributor assembly off the cam that was driving it, and I see mechanical failer like it had bottomed out. The shaft spins hard too. I am going to get another one on there. It might be a week before I have it. Thanks for diagram.