Since you were not able to restart, that is the time you need to be checking what is missing, fuel or ignition sparks.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

The above link explains what to look fo. By verifying what is missing, we can proceed with diagnostics on the system concerned. Let us know what you find.

just to add, the harness for the cam and crank sensors are constant headaches. they fray and cause all kinds of issues like what you describe

Roy

Before I go further, I want to tell you I have had evrything checked. Scans, fuel pressure, replaced coil, played with every wire and hose. nothing makes it cut out. Specificaly, It starts up fine cold, but if runs more than say 15min, it will sputter and cut out, no matter if driving at any speed or sitting at a light, when it decides to shut off it does. Will not start, (does turn over and sounds like it wants to start) but will not stay running for more than a couple of seconds before dying. Car will be able to start after sitting for about 15 min and be fine for another 15mins or so before it wants to shutdown again. Will check above link to see if I missed something later and get back to you unless you have something more to offer based on the more specifiuc info above.

Since problem is temperature related, check the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. Monitor its working range.

I just found my rough idle problem. It was the Evap system... canister purge valve. It was sticking closed. When the car warmed up... the idle went rough. Only thing is it never shut off. Acted like it wanted to though.

I did have my ECT Sensor go bad a few weeks ago too. Easy to check with a volt meter on the 2.0 if you can get your leads to the prongs. I think with engine cold it should read about 7 ohms. Any less... replace it. Mine read at 6.6 and it was causing running misfires and such. The ECT is a high priority sensor and controls things like timing, spark advance and a few other crucial things.

Thinking about this a few minutes, the 15 minute sit then start, that sounds very much like the fuel pump going out. Personal experience with another car I had. The engine dies without any rhyme or reason. Sit a bit and crank it back up. I limped home with that car and stopped 5 different times just to make it.

Update on the above problem. ECT replaced along with the connector/wire as there was no insulation left. Problem fixed??? NO. The whole temperature thing was the common constant so thought this may be it, but no. Still cuts out at about three miles or 10 minutes of driving. Will start after a "cool down" period of half hour. Hard to tell an actual temp but seems to be at regular running temp (between H and C on gauge) Tough to test when car dies as it is usually in traffic somewhere and have not been able to duplicate it at my house. So... Ignition coil, spark plugs, ECT sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor all replaced. All wires played with and checked. Scanned with OBD and Ignition method, no results. Book says no restart on hot engine could be MAP/Intake air sensor but would that make it die at a certain time or temoerature? Last thing to replace would be the PCM but mechanic says it was checked and had no "spikes" but did not rule it out. Car has had several front end and rear in collisions. Could this have compromised the pcm or something else?

When engine stalled, did the dash indicator lights come on immediately?
Were you able to restart at anytime aftr this?
This seems to be an electrical control fault rather than anything else.

Lights come on after about 2 or 3 seconds after feeling it gp out. Can attempt to start, will crank over and either nothing or will start then die 5 seconds later. Again it will start and run fine for another 3.5 miles after sitting 30 minuts or so then do it again.

Have th ignition switch checked. Seems it is failing intermittently as indicated by the delay in dash indicator showing when engine stalled.

Ok, not the ignition switch as the car dies like getting "choked" and happens at the same mileage/temperature consistantly. In addition to all the sensors, plugs, coil etc, that I mentioned in previous posts, I had just done the ECT and the Map/IAT sensor. No change. Had an idea on the temperature thing. Can the cat get hot enough or pluged up enough when hot to kill the engine? I read that the ballasts inside can shift over time causing it to block when hot enough. It then effects the Vaccum system as well. Considering the car has been hit at least 5 times over the years, iy is certainly possible that the insides could be toast. There also is a vbibration rattle noise inside the cat when running. Anybody think tjhis could be it??? Last shot.