Engine misfiring and losing power?

We should start with a compression test to make sure the engine is okay these guide will help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.

I have a 97 Sentra 160 GSI automatic. We have had motor and head redone, replaced radiator, thermostat and spark plugs but she still has no power. Pls help. She drives decently and will reach normal speeeds but you can't just put your foot down and expect her to go cause she doesn't. We are @ our wits end and don't know wat else to do

Is the ignition timing correct?
Was the timing chain correctly synchronised?
Is the thrpottle opening fullty when pedal is fully depressed?
Is the exhaust system clogged?

hello, air conditioning was not working well. only cooling in the morning and evening when it is cool. so upon advice of mechanic, replaced the air compressor. now it is cooling, but not when it is extremely hot. it also only cools when i accelerate. also there is a noise coming from what appears to be from the glove compartment box everytime i accelerate. what do you think the problem is?
there is also a loss of significant power when the AC is on.

without knowing what the pressure readings are from the high and low side AC lines, I have to guess. Hopefully the system is just low on freon.

the noise from the glove compartment, does it sound like steam pressure being vented?

and yes, you notice a loss of power when the AC is on, the compressor is using some of the power that you normally have when you are driving.

Just bought a 1996 Nissan Sentra. Runs good but has poor acceleration, and poor gas mileage. (23-26 mixed city and hwy). Who I bought it from told me it just had a tune up, but who can you believe? Could it just need a tune up/new plugs, or something else?
Thanks

I would check everything, even though he said it was new tune-up. Just look at the parts; do the plugs look new? Are they gapped at .044? What about the wires, cap and rotor? What about the filters: air, fuel, PCV valve. Does it idle smooth at 750 rpm +/- 50 rpm? Did you check the timing? 8 degrees BTDC. Also, look at the front O2 sensor. If the wires aren't new, I would replace it. GA16DE relies on O2 sensor quite heavily for fuel economy.

Just to put into perspective, my 95 has 242K and still gets 32 mpg mix, and I have a very heavy foot.

I was driving my car at about 40mph when the car overheated and started to jerk violently and would not accelerate. If I released the accelerator then the car would continue to roll and idle fine, but if I tried to accelerate again the car would start to jerk again. The car could still idle just fine but would not accelerate. What could cause this?

It is running poorly because it overheated. How long did you drive it after it overheated? It does not take long to damage internal engine components withouth coolant.

Do you know why it overheated in first place?
Check your coolant, cracks in radiator hoses, leaks from water pump and check your oil level as well.

it overheated I'm assuming because my radiator fans do not work. but as soon as the gauge went up i stopped and was having the problem, but I'm not sure how long it was hot before the gauge reacted. I always make sure i keep coolant in it since the fans do not work.

If you knew your fans didn't work and you drove it anyway then I am sure there is damage done internally. Coolant is just one of the things the cooling system needs to stay properly cooled. You will need to have it checked at a repair shop to see what all has been damaged.

I found out that the mass air sensor went out in it. So supposedly that is what was causing my problems

it has a slow response, with or without the a/c on.
it feel like you are towing a car with it, i cleaned the
TBI with carbmedic, and it get better but not at all
could this fault be a sensor or a timing problem?

Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires

my 5 speed car had a problem losing power, the it wouldnt idle without my foot on the gas. A friend of mine sprayed the carb or choke and it resolved the issue. now i am losing power in 5th gear on the highway. I literally went from 65mph to 50 with my foot on the gas! i heard the engine roar but the car acted like it was not getting gas. I went into the parts store to buy and spray the car again myself, but was told by an employee the the parts had to be taken off to clean properly. I am a student and have spent money keeping up the car, so i cant afford to replace it, and i have no idea of where to start to find out what is wrong with it. what can i do to resolve the issue

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs, airflow meter and throttle position sensor, also exhaust system for restriction-tranny clutch could be slipping-

TRy replacing the fuel filter.

1994 nissan sentra limited edition- 195,000. when i first got this car it ran great. recently if the car sits for a long time in second gear when driving the car stalls at 2000 rpms and if given more gas the speed drops rapidly. also driving on highways between 70 and 80 mph going up any hill the car will lose speed even if the gas pedal is pushed to the floor.

-- another problem- the rpm gauge works unless the car has been driven for more than an hour or if it sits in the sun too long- then the rpm gauge doesnt work at all or drops to zero while driving.

There may be a problem with the throttle position sensor, or TPS. Go to a mechanic and have him plug your car into an OBD reader and see if any codes come up. You can also try this at home if you pick up an OBD reader from an Autozone or Kragen etc....

when i drive my car on the road, i get up to 55 miles n hour and it bogs down to no power until i let up on the gas, then i can drive again. but when it reaches 55 it will do the same thing?

Inspect and test the airflow meter and throttle position sensor-

I am not sure what you mean? were is that located?? My car drives fine and there are no faulty dash lights on. it also has brand new exhaust system including the cadilack converter. I was told it was the speed sensor? can you tell me were it is located on the car?

The VSS is located on the speedometer assembly

I also wanted to state that when i said i am going 55 miles n hour that was clocked because i had a friend drive beside me. the actually speed that reads on my car is 120 but actually 55 miles n hour.its reading way more then it should be. maybe this will help with my question as to what is wrong?

Can you tell me how much it would cost me to buy this part i need?

My car ran very well up until a few weeks ago. At that point, it sputtered and stalled out on the highway. I got it home, replaced a very clogged inline fuel filter (which I thought was the problem), replaced the plugs, cap, and rotor. Then a few days later it began intermittently missing (I think) on one cylinder. This happens particularly when it's cold. It has power loss and shudders and sounds as if only 3 cylinders are firing properly. I then replaced the wires, which fixed the problem for about 2 miles, and it ran better than ever before. But now, it is having the same symptoms and I don't know what the problem is. Is it time to swap a lower mileage motor/scrap the car or am I just missing something?

With that many miles, and not having the complete history, I can only give you suggestions. No, it is not time you swap to another engine, just yet. My 95 GA16 has 240K, and it runs better than most Sentras out there.

First thing that I would do is a compression test. It will show which cylinder is not operating properly. It one of them is way below spec, then you may want to consider the engine swap, or just rebuild that motor.

If the compression test is good, check your ignition timing. It should be 8 degrees BTDC. Make sure that you don't have that much play on the distributor shaft. Test your coil. You have replace everything (tune up wise, except the coil).

Test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

You also mentioned that it happens in cold weather. Check your coolant temp sensor.

Engine Performance problem
1994 Nissan Sentra Front Wheel Drive Manual 400000 miles

hi on cold mornings when it has warmed up my car has problem accelerating and if i stop it stalls can you please help thanks

Lack of acceleration,chugging,hesitating,bogging,misfiring etc. could be caused by one of the following below:

Inspect and test all the items below-we start here and comeback with the results.

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it.

[quote:7c6ba77ae0="dafaddaof6"]I pressure washed the engine, covering the dist and what not I changed the plugs cap and rotor Now the car idles ok in park but when it is put in drive it has no power until it biulds up about 1600 rpm Any suggestions on a solution[/quote:7c6ba77ae0]

You probably showered the TPS and MAF sensor connectors causing the problem.

tune up and a fuel injection service

How much of this can i do myself?

Probably all of it. Requires changing Spark Plugs, Air Filter, Oil Change, etc. Fuel injection service can be a little bit more of a challenge.