Door Locks not working correctly?

oil works wonders, pull the door panel off and lube the lock actuator it is either partially frozen or a clip broke or in bad need of lubing. This guide can help you check for power with the door lock wiring diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Awesome!! I appreciate your response. Where should I place the oil, and what kind? I've taken the door panel off already and everything appears to be securely connected.

penetrating oil or wd40 will work the best if you have any lying around. it could be a bad actuator as well but try that first.

Definitely have some WD40. I'll try that tonight!! Totally appreciate your help!!

Hi, I was wondering if someone can help me with a problem with my door locks. If I press the button to lock or unlock the doors, the driver side is the only lock that works. There is no noise coming from any of the other doors and none of the doors lock or unlock. I can manually lock and unlock all the doors with no problems. I just cant use the buttons to lock and unlock all of them. I know there is a blue box in the door and I assume this is the control box for the door locks. Could this be the problem?

Thanks

[quote:25788b8427="rockineddie"]Electrical problem
1997 Honda Civic 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 110000 miles

Hi, I was wondering if someone can help me with a problem with my door locks. If I press the button to lock or unlock the doors, the driver side is the only lock that works. There is no noise coming from any of the other doors and none of the doors lock or unlock. I can manually lock and unlock all the doors with no problems. I just cant use the buttons to lock and unlock all of them. I know there is a blue box in the door and I assume this is the control box for the door locks. Could this be the problem?

Thanks[/quote:25788b8427]

I think I figured it out. I tested the actuators with a 9v battery and they all work just fine. They don't unlock the doors due to the fact that they need 12v to work, but they do click and move the locks. So the next step has to be the blue control box. The only other thing it can be is wiring from the box, and that all seems good.

[quote:c44a2d7b97="rockineddie"][quote:c44a2d7b97="rockineddie"]Electrical problem
1997 Honda Civic 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 110000 miles

Hi, I was wondering if someone can help me with a problem with my door locks. If I press the button to lock or unlock the doors, the driver side is the only lock that works. There is no noise coming from any of the other doors and none of the doors lock or unlock. I can manually lock and unlock all the doors with no problems. I just cant use the buttons to lock and unlock all of them. I know there is a blue box in the door and I assume this is the control box for the door locks. Could this be the problem?

Thanks

I think I figured it out. I tested the actuators with a 9v battery and they all work just fine. They don't unlock the doors due to the fact that they need 12v to work, but they do click and move the locks. So the next step has to be the blue control box. The only other thing it can be is wiring from the box, and that all seems good.[/quote:c44a2d7b97]


Ok, it wasn't the control box after all. The problem was a disconnected wire at the plug that enters the door. I did a simple continuity test between the plug from the control box and the passenger side door lock plug and found no continuity between the wht/red wires. I then wiggled the wires around inside the driverside door and found the problem. I had to run a new wire, but the fix was easy.

I have a 97 Civic LX, 200,000 miles and the rear door locks are stuck in the locked position. They do not unlock manually or with the power locks. I am wondering how I can get them unlocked so I can open the doors and then take the door panels off to investigate what's happening. But right now I am driving a 4-door roadster...heh. Any ideas on how I can get these guys unlocked? Should I employ the services of a nearby car thief and his slim jim? Many thanks!

Have you checked the fuses? Those have child locks on them with a switch available when the door is open. If it is not the fuses, I would employ the services of slim jim.

[quote:c79a232756="Bruce Hunt"]Have you checked the fuses? Those have child locks on them with a switch available when the door is open. If it is not the fuses, I would employ the services of slim jim.[/quote:c79a232756]

thanks for the reply. I did check the fuses and things are showing continuity. I think my best bet will be a professional having a look at it. I have a bad feeling about trying my hand at jimmying them unlocked. I'll post an update when I hear what the final verdict is.

Thanks,
Nick

i ended up having a guy jimmy them open with a slim jim and now i am on to troubleshoot the power door lock failing. going to write a ne post for that one. thanks for the help

nick

[quote:4f30de32a1="nicklunn44"][quote:4f30de32a1="Bruce Hunt"]Have you checked the fuses? Those have child locks on them with a switch available when the door is open. If it is not the fuses, I would employ the services of slim jim.[/quote:4f30de32a1]

thanks for the reply. I did check the fuses and things are showing continuity. I think my best bet will be a professional having a look at it. I have a bad feeling about trying my hand at jimmying them unlocked. I'll post an update when I hear what the final verdict is.

Thanks,
Nick[/quote:4f30de32a1]

Electrical problem
1997 Honda Civic 4 cyl

Hi Guys,

Here's my questions. My '97 Honda Civic (4 doors) power door locks were working properly until recently.

The power door locks work FINE when the driver's door is closed.

I have always been able to unlock all doors with the driver's door open, using the PDL switch. Likewise, I have always been able to lock all doors with the driver's door open (holding the outside handle up as if opening the door, then pressing the interior lock button, not the switch).

Not anymore. All door locks will now open only when the driver's door is closed OR at least the door locking mechanism is in contact with the door frame (the little latch thing that "holds" the door in place once closed).

One observation: The master key started giving some trouble when unlocking the driver's door, so I started using the valet key. When this happened, this problem began occurring. However, a locksmith fixed the lock and now the master key works fine, but the PDL problem persists.

Any clues?

Thanks!

ACTUATOR TEST CAUTION:To prevent damage to the actuator motor, apply power and ground only momentarily. Driver's Door Remove door panel. Unplug connector. With switch in LOCK position, there should be continuity between terminals No. 3 and 4. With switch in UNLOCK position, there should be no continuity between terminals No. 3 and 4. See Fig. 3 . Connect battery voltage to actuator connector terminal No. 1. Momentarily connect terminal No. 2 to ground. Actuator should move to LOCK position. Connect battery voltage to actuator connector terminal No. 2. Momentarily connect terminal No. 1 to ground. Actuator should move to UNLOCK position.

1997 Honda Civic LX 4dr 200,000 miles The power door locks on my car are not locking/unlocking the doors. None of the doors. I checked the fuses and they are ok. I also tested the switch and it showed continuity for both lock/unlock. I then reconnected the wires and tested them at the other end, where it plugs in to the Power Lock Control module and flipped the switch again. Continuity appeared on the wires there. That eliminated a bad wire from the switch to the module. I then, referencing the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, tested continuity from the control module to the driver's door lock actuator. This seemed strange to me, but the wires which were supposed to (if I read the diagram correctly) indicate the switch locking/unlocking showed continuity without doing anything to the switch. With everything plugged in, toggling the switch does not result in any sound being made (the typical clicking sound that occurred when i would lock or unlock the doors) My questions are: 1) how often does the power lock control module fail? 2) how can i remove the actuator to more easily test it? 3) does the lack of that sound indicate actuator or this control module? 4) would a failing driver's door actuator cause the other doors to not lock/unlock, or are most likely all 4 door hosed up? Let me know if you need anymore info or more explanation. I'm also attaching a pic of the control module from one i found on eBay. Thanks, Nick

I am headed out the door but I quick pulled together material that should help you out with diagrams, testing, etc. I will email it to you here shortly.

How did you determine the problem and what did you do to fix it. My civic has the same issue.

1997 Honda Civic LX 4 Door
118,000 miles

hey i have the same problem except i have a 1999 honda civic ex, i cant figure out what the problem is but my locks stil lmake the clicking sound. anyone know what could be the problem??

Is it that the lifespan of the part is 10 years?
Can I see those diagrams too?
What parts would I need to order?
Thanks for any help :)

Can anyone recoomend a reputable (fair priced) honda mechanic in the area? Chicago?

Thanks

-Luis :?

Has anyone fixed the problem? I have a 1998 Civic EX coupe with exact same problem. Question: If you replace the lock control module, do you need new remotes for the car? Can anyone please e-mail me the solution. :P

Thanks. :lol:

The remotes can be reprogrammed at any time, I've bought a few off eBay. There's a way to associate them with your specific keyless.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitchell1eautorepair-car-repair-manuals


Great resource.

Thanks a lot for the info on the keyless info. I still have yet to determine the solution to my inoperative power locks. I get no clicking sound at all with remote or with electric switch on door. I have checked the fuses. Honda wants $100 for a new Power Lock Module (the blue box in the picture). Will replacing that fix my problem... what easy troubleshoot items am I missing? What is the common malfunction with Hondas in this situation? I am fairly confident it is not the locking mechanism at the door locks themselves, but not 100%.

Please help if you can. I've had this car for 10 years, and want to repair everything before I sell it.

Thanks.

I have the central locking problem in my 2003 civic. It only works when the engine/power is on. It happened since my son dropped a coin into the CD player. It stopped working since then, besides central locking, auto light fails when the engine/power is off, as well. All fuses are OK. Any suggestion ? (I haven't changed the dead CD player, btw). Thanks for your help in advanced.

hi, im having the same problem.. can anyone pls pm me how to fix this.. i would appreciate i...thanks

I had a similar electric lock problem on my 1990 Accord. First the electric locks would work intermittently, then one day they quit working all together. It turned out to be a bad solder joint on the lock control module circuit board. The relay terminal that connected to pin #3 was broken and was easy to locate by looking for broken solder on the bottom side of the board. After heating the joint with a soldering iron and applying a dab of solder it works good-as-new.
The door panel had to be removed, the lock control module removed and then opened. It was really a fairly simple repair.
Since I didn't need to purchase a new control module I saved quite a few $$.

Here are my issues, similar:
1.) Driver window goes down but not up. Passenger window works. Rear window goes down but not up until sitting for awhile. Doors locks work intermittently with key fob. Mirrors don't work.
2.) Attached jumpers to +4 prong and - to 3 prong on driver's window motor plug. Window went up.
3.) Wiggled the wiring harness that goes from the engine compartment into the drivers door panel, the mirrors and locks started working until I opened the door again. Didn't have the nerve to check the driver's window since it's cold and rain in the forecast. Taking it to a trusted mech. tomorrow.

Good afternoon my name is Roy and I will assist

I posted a wire diagram for you to view. Check the white/green wire for battery power. If you have power and a signal from the switch, verify for any power out of the module.

It does look like the module has failed but need to verify with the checks.

Roy

I locked my keys in the trunk of my car. My car doors were locked and I paniced because I was about to leave to go out of town. I wasn't thinking and I tried using a screwdriver to get my door/trunk unlocked. Now, I can put the key in the passenger & trunk lock but it won't turn. I think I messed the lock up. When I put the screwdriver in the passenger lock I did push it in kinda hard. Do I need to get my locks replaced or do you think it could be repaired? Is it very expensive to replace? Thank you!

Hi lilrascal0401,

You definitely have damaged the key cylinders by forcing them.

You can try the locksmith to see if they can repair the locks.

Replacing the locks would entail a different key and with 2 new locks, gonna be 3 keys unless you get the locksmith to rematch the new cylinders into one.

Sorry I am not able to assist on the costing. I woud suggest checking at your local parts outlet.