1991 Ford Explorer hard to start

1997 FORD EXPLORER
160,000 MILES
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 SOHC hard start. Cranks every time, starts after the 7th or 8th time. Once started, it chugs. Turn it off and get it to start again and seems to run fine after it warms up. Once in awhile if I go before it is warm, it seems like there is a weird shift in tranny. It will go into next gear, then back down and back into that gear again. When it shifts that way, it is immediate that it goes in, drops back to lower gear and back into higher gear. There is no lack of shifting either way. No grinding or sincro issues that I can hear. I didn't have the starting or tranny issue until a week ago when I had my thermostat housing and Temp sensors replaced. What could they have hit and knocked loose, or broke in the process of loosening intake to get to sensors and therm housing? I (myself) replaced the $283 air inlet hose because I thought that was it, but still does the same. They ripped it in the process and never said a word about taping it up... that is the reason I replaced it. My check engine light has been on since therm housing repair. I went to Advance Auto parts and had them check the code, and one of the sensors that I just paid to replace is bad, or the wrong one. No other code is being thrown. At this point, I will replace that sensor myself so this dingbat mechanic doesn't cause anymore damage to my truck. Thanks a bunch guys! =]
Mar 14, 2012 at 2:49 PM
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KHLOW2008
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What trouble code are you getting?
Mar 14, 2012 at 3:58 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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I don't know what the exact code is, but I seen it on the computer at Advanced Auto. Is said Temperature send sensor bad.
Mar 14, 2012 at 11:18 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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Also, the RPM's were at exactly 1000 prior to the therm housing being changed. When I picked my truck up, it was dead set on 500, and has idled there once warm since.
Mar 14, 2012 at 11:21 PM
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RASMATAZ
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Have the coolant temperature sensor checked and tested could be out of specifications
Mar 14, 2012 at 11:46 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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That is one of the 2 that were just replaced. They actually replaced that one 2 times. Would it make that much difference in how my truck starts? Could and why would that lessen my idle rpms?
Mar 15, 2012 at 12:06 AM
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RASMATAZ
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Clean the idle air control valve and also the MAF sensor with an electronic cleaner called CRC and see what happens
Mar 15, 2012 at 12:37 AM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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I will get it tomorrow and try it. Will let you know.
Mar 15, 2012 at 2:02 AM
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KHLOW2008
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The ECT is an important sensor for engine performance as the wrong reading can result in the engine computer sending the wrong command to the fuel injectors.

Get another scan done and get the exact trouble code for me. Since parts had beed replaced, codes might change if other problems are causing it.
Mar 15, 2012 at 2:04 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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I just got home from having the code checked. It is P0117. Coolant temp sensor 1 circuit. I had them show me the part that would be replaced, and it is one of the sensors that was replaced less than 2 weeks ago, but not the one that was replaced 2 times. This is the one that goes to the computer I assume because of the issues with the truck. How does one go about replacing this without ripping it all apart? I would have to loosen the intake manifold, the upper radiator hose, the air intake,and probably the top of the therm housing. Is there an easier way?
Mar 16, 2012 at 7:41 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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Is that an ignition part?
Mar 16, 2012 at 7:54 PM
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RASMATAZ
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No its not an ignition part-its a prameter sensor that communicates with the computer in relation to engine temperature
Mar 16, 2012 at 11:06 PM
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JAY-M
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hi guys,i really need help.i have 1997 ford explorer 4.0 SOHC hard to start id try to start it for 8-10 times before it will start but my foot on the gas pedal.when it start the rpm reach 1500-2000 but suddenly the engine will shut off.there is no leak,i change the fuel filter,clean the throttle body and IAC valve...please help me guys..thanks
Aug 21, 2012 at 10:17 AM
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KHLOW2008
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Have the fuel pressure tested.
Are there any trouble codes?
Aug 21, 2012 at 10:20 AM
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JAY-M
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fuel pressure is good,there is no code.
Aug 21, 2012 at 10:28 AM
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KHLOW2008
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https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Without any codes you would have to start with the basic testings. Above links should be helpful.
Aug 21, 2012 at 10:33 AM
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JAY-M
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any sensors can cause this problem without the code?
Aug 21, 2012 at 10:46 AM
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KHLOW2008
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Sensors seldom cause trouble without any codes but sometimes they can. ECT, crank or cam angle sensors and any others related to engine operations can cause it.

Guessing does not work and what you need to do is to find out what is missing causing the difficult or non-starting to narrow down the scope of fault list.
Aug 21, 2012 at 10:54 AM
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JAY-M
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i replace the spurk plug because thier is a lot of carbon.just now i start it but 2-3 times i try an then thier is a black smoke and the idle is up and down.
Aug 21, 2012 at 1:44 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Black smoke means it is running too rich and the ECT can cause that. Run a while longer and see if idling stabilises.
Aug 21, 2012 at 1:50 PM
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JAY-M
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It wont run for long time,maybe just only a minute.then the engine will shut off maybe because of the rich mixture.so im goin to buy ECT and replace it.
Aug 21, 2012 at 2:00 PM
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KHLOW2008
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It would be better to test first than to replace and hoping it solves the problem.
Aug 21, 2012 at 2:21 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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I had both sensors on the Therm housing (one is ECT and other I don't remember what it's called)replaced 2 times. When the ECT sensor was bad, I never had any smoke coming out of the exhaust. Not to say it doesn't happen, I am just lucky I suppose. I have the same issue as Jay-M happening though minus the black smoke. Last weekend we moved from Florida to New Hampshire. I drove my truck all the way. The truck was fine until we went through New York City. I have a pulley somewhere that started making noise, and my truck is hard to start again. The RPM's drop all the way once it is started so it cuts off. It takes 8 or 9 times to get it started then it runs really rough all the while rpm's fluctuate really low sometimes to 0 shutting truck off. Could this be my Throttle Position Sensor?
Aug 21, 2012 at 2:28 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Did you check for trouble codes?

We don't go around diagnosing and saying this could be or that could be. Raw data and the correct information is required to get to the source of the problem.
Aug 21, 2012 at 2:31 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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I forgot to mention, after having the ECT replaced both times the check engine light is still on throwing the matching code. Prior to having both sensors replaced the 2nd time, my Temp gauge inside my truck didn't work and I never heard my fan come on. Since the 2nd replacement the gauge works and the fan comes on. Could the wire to the sensor still work but need to be replaced and throw the code? I personally think my check engine light is just haunted. Even with the new issue from driving 1400 miles, that is the only code showing (from the sensor).
Aug 21, 2012 at 2:34 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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Code is and has always been P0117.
Aug 21, 2012 at 2:36 PM
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KHLOW2008
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If the codes is there, it means replacing the ECT did not solve the problem.

It could be a wiring or PCM fault apart from the ECT.

The test procedure for this is rather long. If you want the procedures, let me have an email so I can send the file to you.
Aug 21, 2012 at 3:07 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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Please do, [email protected] I need to somehow fix the issue to get the light off. I have to do my inspection soon, and it will not pass with the check engine light on. I don't want to deceive them just to get it passed. I know a lot of people do, but that just isn't me.
Aug 21, 2012 at 3:11 PM
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KHLOW2008
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File is being sent to you.

You need not follow everything to the dot. For P0117 you should be doing step 20 and 90.

Hope they are useful.
Aug 21, 2012 at 3:19 PM
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JAY-M
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hi guys im planning to buy a scantool and i like the CRAFTSMAN canOBD 1&2.any body had used this one before and its working very good? any suggestion guys...
Aug 23, 2012 at 2:41 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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Thanks for sending the file! I decided to take it to the shop yesterday. Will update when I get the results.
Aug 23, 2012 at 9:14 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Sorry Jay-M, I have never used this before so am not able to comment.
Maybe you should post a new thread so others can have a look at it.

You're welcome, Scribbledcanvas.

Sometimes it is not easy to perform certain repairs without understanding the complete system and you have availability of appropriate tools to consider. Getting the problem resolved by professionals is the correct thing to do.
Aug 24, 2012 at 8:46 AM
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JAY-M
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hi guys i need a help for my 1997 ford explorer 4.0 SOHC,engine hard to start.i try to start so many times before it will start but the engine was stalling and thier is a lot of black smoke coming out from the tail pipe,but sometimes it won't start.thier is no check engine and code.i replaced ECT,IAC,MAF,SPARK PLUGS & HIGH TENSION WIRE. i check fuel pressure & power supply in the spark plug all are good.5 months ago i replaced the automatic transmission because it won't shift to reverse and the drive it shift only 1st and 2nd.any help please?
Aug 24, 2012 at 11:33 AM
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JAY-M
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Item# 00920899000 Mfr. Model# 20899
Designed to retrieve OEM Enhanced and Transmission diagnostic codes in all OBD2 (1996 and newer) and some of the most popular OBD1 (1981 to 1995) vehicles. Features unique patented all-in-one backlit screen and LED display for quick State Emissions readiness check and drive cycle verification. Comes with access to online RepairSolutions which gives trouble code definitions, a full diagnostic report, probable causes, most likely fix to DTCs, repair costs and more.


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General Motors 1982 to 1993 and some 1994 to 1995 models
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Toyota / Lexus 1991 to 1995
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Aug 24, 2012 at 11:41 AM
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KHLOW2008
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Do you have any trouble codes?

The tool looks good from the capabilities described. How much does it cost?
Aug 24, 2012 at 2:05 PM
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JAY-M
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NO trouble code & check engine..the scantool it cost $238 and free shipping
Aug 24, 2012 at 2:22 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Seems a good price.

Black smoke indicates the engine is misfiring or running very rich. Have you tested the injectors and engine compression?
Aug 24, 2012 at 4:25 PM
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JAY-M
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Nope! cause i don't have a special tools to do the test and i heard the fuel pump it was running every 2 second even i just turned on the ignation switch.so i really need to buy the scantool to test the spark plug misfire and the injector test.
Aug 24, 2012 at 5:20 PM
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KHLOW2008
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You can rent those from outlets that provide such services. You can check elelctrically controlled components but for engine compression, you need a compression gauge.
Aug 24, 2012 at 6:29 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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JAY-M have you ever replaced the Oxygen Sensors? If you haven't, replace those. Clogged/bad Oxygen Sensors will cause it to run rich. A simple way to check your sensors... If you can, put your hand in front of the exhaust pipe while it is running. Hold it there for about 10 seconds. Remove your hand away from the exhaust and smell it. If your hand smells like gas even the least little bit, change your O2 sensors. You might also be able to smell gas without putting your hand there if you stand by the exhaust.
Aug 25, 2012 at 11:11 PM
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SCRIBBLEDCANVAS
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My issue with my truck is when I had the ECT and Temp Sender replaced the 1st time, the moron busted the wiring harness at the sensor wires (I only know who exactly it was because it started up immediately every time before taking it to him, after getting it back, I had issues starting it. After driving all the way from FL to NH, the wire came loose from the harness). Not the end that connects to the sensors, the end that connects to the harness on the firewall. That is what is causing the issue with my truck not starting then running like poo once it is started.
Aug 25, 2012 at 11:18 PM