Engine will not turn over?

Sounds like you have a short circuit within the electrical system that's draining the battery-Refer to this link for more information: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

hey, I have a quick question. I own a 92 nissan 300zx, and I redlined it pretty badly friday night. A couple of minutes later, a clicking noise started and acceleration started to decrease. soon after my car died out, and smoke came out from under my hood. It wont crank and loses power. I know that my engine is blown, but I need to know what I can do to fix it.

ps getting a new engine is out of the question.

cant tell this till it is removed, torn down and inspected.

Roy

it sounds like something let go in the motor whether it is a piston or a valve. when over revving occurs, internal damage can only be determined with a tear down to see what has failed. it is not an easy answer as i am here and you are there and i cannot see, touch or hear what is happening.

Roy

1991 nissan 300zx engine turns over and almost starts but will not run. Its getting fuel through the lines and pump is pumping, injectors are pulsing, i dont think its getting enough fuel to the plugs. Please help.

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs and also are you getting spark

thanks. im getting fire and now its getting fuel but still isnt starting it seems like it wants to but it wont?

You didn't mention the fuel pressure reading-injector/s pulsing-check the valve and ignition timing

car became hard to start, i had to crank for a while to start, now it will not start at all, cranks just fine, but will not fire, acts like no gas to engine

Cranks but no start condition:

Fuel and Spark:
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

Drove to store and shut it off. When returned, it would turn over fine but not crank.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

You need to find out what is missing causing the non starting. Click above link for more information.

Electrical problem
1990 Nissan 300ZX 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

This is what's going on. When I turn the key into the accessory, the radio turns on and everything seems fine. When you go to start the car, there is no response. Nothing turns over, there are no clicks, there is absolutely nothing going on. Tried to pull engine codes, but the LED on the ECU doesn't appear to flash. I don't know what else to try. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Gives the impression of a bad ignition switch. Power is getting to it, but when moves it does not.

Without applying the break, I shifted from park to neutral and it started no problem. After driving around the block, and there car back in park, it started once again no problem. Neutral safety switch?

That was I was thinking as I read that...

Need a diagram?

Please and thank you.

Bear with me I hit a deer on Sunday and life got a little complicated. I will be updating this...getting info

is tough sometimes.

I did a little research. and this is what I learned. There is a relay in the starter circuit, it is located behind the left hand inner fender above the plastic inner liner.raise the car and remove the back half of the plastic inner fender and look up . Locate this relay and look at the diagram imprinted on the top of it. It is the large blue relay with two harness connectors that plug in to it. This is a real common problem. Substitute a jumper wire in the harness for the contact points of the relay. If the car now starts and you have voltage and ground on the coil side of the relay, then you need relay.

1994 300ZX, 134,893 miles, non-turbo coupe, Left side driver, manual transmission, V6. When the key is actuated the starter clicks and the dash lights do not go dim but the clock on the console and radio does. The battery is fully charged and does not drain. Will push start easily. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.

Check for corrosion and improperly tightened or connected lines. take off the battery connector terminals and clean them and the battery posts good, then reconnect and tighten.

check the switch under the front driver tire, behind the wheel, it will click when you turn the key

i had the same problem with my 300zx 1992 NA.

i never did figure out what it was before i sold it
but i read a bunch of Q&A and it said that switch was a problem to be of concern

go to: www.twinturbo.net for complete 300zx tech problems and forums and stuff

GL

They said the starter is clicking when attempting to crank, so i do believe that the switch is not the problem. what switch are you talking about?

The starter relay is directly behind the drivers side front tire inside the firewall. That is the next component I am going to replace today. Replaced the starter yesterday, thought it might have been the solenoid. Did not fix it. What is actually clicking is the starter relay. All the connectors are good.
Thanks.

Replaced starter relay, starter, and ignition coil relay with no luck. Starter relay does click louder. The security light on the dash stopped flashing and the stock security system no longer works. The headlights do not dim when I try to start the car. Maybe this is how the starting system is designed, if it is I do not like it, I prefer the the entire power of the battery to start the car. There does not seem to be a problem with the ignition switch.
tomorrow I will put it back on the lift to see if there is power at the solenoid when I turn the key.
Anybody ever bypass the theft control unit?

Lights should dim when the car is being cranked, that means there is energy being used for starting. try check for voltage at the starter, if you have none, then you have checked everything but the ignition switch, the battery, and he cables.

i still think you should check the battery and adn all connections for corrosion if you have not done so.

I appreciate your reply and there is no corrosion on the connections. the only lights that do dim are the radio, installed clock in console, and the heater/air conditioning indication. Headlights and idiot lights in dash do not dim. Which means the power is not be distributed properly to the starting system. I will find out in the morning if power is going to the solenoid when the key is actuated. if not it goes in to be fixed.
Thanks

After going to the Nissan dealer and finding out they want to charge me $90.00 an hour to diagnose the problem I decided to continue on my own. The problem was the starter relay actually called by Nissan an inhibitor relay. The connector to it was not pushed in all the way. If you ever find that you are not getting power to your starter when you actuate the ignition check this first before buying anything. Starts like a gem. Thank you for all your help.