heater control valve

Hello,

Here is a guide to help you get the heater hose connected along with diagrams below to show you how the vacuum lines go

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-heater-hoses

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

Replaced the heater control valve in my 96 ford ranger because it wouldn't blow hot air. Once the new valve got put in the hot air blew just fine. Recently this morning i tried to turn on the hot air and nothing came on. The part was under warranty and i got a new one to see if that would work. Nothing happened and there is no suction to the heater control valve which makes it change to blow hot. What would be the problem?

All you have is the vacuum switch on the heater control switch assembly and the vacuum hoses from the engine and to the valve. If any other mode motors work in the dash, the vacuum supply has to be good. That leaves the switch and hose going to the valve.

I installed heater control valve in my 1997 ford ranger xlt 4 cylinder--not sure if installed right--its a 4port-and i have 2ports facing engine on top and 2 ports facing ---outside of truck on bottom--the valve part is facing up toward engine.

Great Site Man !

When I look that part up, it appears to be a 2 port.

no its a four port--two hoses fromfirewall and two hoses toward front of truck

I looked it up at Napa. The one they show for your truck is two ports. One in, one out.

Could you retype your whole question then please? It appears that the most important parts of it were cut off.

its a 1997 ford ranger xlt 2.3 sohc 8 valve----a 4port heater control valve---need to know if the valve part of the part faces up or dowm--there are 2 hoses connected on to toward engine and 2 hoses om bottom toward outside--not sure if if that is correct--should the valve part face up or down

I can't picture that vehicle in my mind right now. Normally, the movable arm on the valve is visible from the top. Look at the bulkhead where it mounts, can you see an outline of the bracket?

it is mounted about halway between radiater and firewall under the air intake parts on left side of engine --only mounted bt hoses out of firewall and hoses from front of truck---but moveable arm is facing up and on side close to engine-and visible from top--i am getting heat and all seems to be working fine--just love my little truck and want to make sure correct---had old part sitting like it should be but bumbed it and it moved so thats why not sure if new one is on correct----my little truck got ya stumped huh??--i have yet to see a ranger like mine xlt step side yet with the 4 cylinder engine--had it 3 yeaRS 135 thousand miles --and no trouble yet--knock on wood!!!

An ex-gf has one. But haven't seen her or the gf since 07. :D

Almost all of the heater control valves I've ever seen have had the movable arm either straight up, or at an upward angle. And your mentioning that yours is in the middle of the hose run rang bells. It's identical to the 79 Mustang I once owned.

My girlfriend has a 1998 Ford Ranger and cannot adjust the air temp while the car is running. She can shut the car off and then adjust the temp. I think it is the heater control valve. I know it is probably vacuum controlled but what does it look like and where exactly would I find it?

You will need to invest in a haynes or clymer manual anyway. Now is a good time. :)

Good luck and let us know.

How do i replace the heater control valve on a 1994 ford ranger V-6 3.0?

Are you sure your vehicle is equipped with a heater control valve?

What is the problem you are facing?

Heater problem
1989 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual

I have installed a new radiator, new radiator hoses, new thermostat, new water pump, and new heater core. I have checked and the doors are opening and closing. This model doesn't have a heater control valve. All this and no heat. Blower just blows cold air. There doesn't seem to be much coolant in the heater core and very little pressure in the coolant flow through radiator hoses. Any help would be great.

Check the water pump operation

One way to test for a bad water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose when the engine is hot and idling. Careful, because the hose will be HOT! If you do not feel much coolant circulating through the hose when you rev the engine, the pump may be bad. The other cause might be a bad thermostat that is not opening properly (remove and inspect the thermostat), or a clogged radiator.

Thanks for the info, checked water pump operation and hose is getting good flow, thermostat is working and radiator not clogged. Is it possible that I have air in the system and if so how would I get the air out.

BLEEDING COOLING SYSTEM

Always bleed air from cooling system after replacing coolant. Set heater for maximum heat. Remove radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant reservoir to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt. With radiator cap removed, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature. Add coolant if necessary and check for leaks.