car sometimes will not start

I have seen this problem before the ignition switch goes bad and needs to be replaced here are diagrams to show you how to do the job (below).

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

My car listed above (Custom, Coupe, 108,000 miles, automatic, 3.1 V6) won't start.
Recently, it would start normally, but, when put in gear, would "stutter" (almost as if someone were pumping the brakes, without me touching either of the pedals). After it warmed up, it worked fine.
Yesterday, I tried to start it and, after about 30 seconds of running, it died. I could not reliably start it since.

The symptoms:
- When turning the key (not all the way), I hear the 2 seconds fuel pump going.
- When turning the key (all the way), the starter sounds normal (i.e. not clicking, but actually turning), but the engine itself does not start firing. I managed to get it started once again, for a short period of time by pressing the gas pedal while turning the key. The engine died pretty quickly after that.

I was wondering what are the possible problems/solutions for these symptoms.

Thank you!
Alex

You need to confirm the actual fuel pressure by using a fuel pressure gauge. When the pressure is up to standards then go to the ignition system and check for spark.

i have a Buick Skylark 1996 and i'm having trouble getting it to start. when i turn the key instead of all the information lights coming on only the airbag and check engine lights come on and the engine turns over and then dies. all of the dome lights, windows, radio and air all works, but the car won't start unless i leave the key in the ignition for awhile until all of the information lights light up and then the engine will stay on when i turn the key. is this a wiring problem or ignition switch or what? as a side note i've noticed the colder it is the longer i have to wait before it will start. Please help! ! i am ready to tear out my hair.

could this possibly be a security system problem? what is the status of your security light? does it flash sometimes? have you recently changed any parts or gotten a new key? do you have any aftermarket installed equipment (such as remote start) that may be causing a problem? it's possible that the vehicle security system is activating.
let me know the answers to some of my questions and I'll help you work through this.

my son's 1996 Buick Skylark is not starting.we dropped the tank to check for the tar look because the gas smelled like varsol from the car sitting up but it was clean.we drained it anyway and put in fresh gas.we know the fuel pump is working because there is gas in the line where you would clean the fuel system.we took a plug out and plugged the plug into the wire and leaned the plug against the block while one of us turn the engine over and there was no spark. we took the module off and took it to get it checked. it was fine,so we put it back on.now we were thinking about the crank sensor,but I'm not sure. can ya'll help me and my son? thanks. Applejack.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can only be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off. Just seeing fuel in the line is not acceptable.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Inspect and test the CPS.

Crankshaft Position Sensor (7x) (3.1L VIN M)On lower right of engine, under exhaust manifold. See Fig. 2 .
Crankshaft Position Sensor (24x) (3.1L VIN M)Right front of engine. See

code p0102, crank 7x sensor good crank 24 times. sensor good, ICM good. KOEO fuel pump runs then times out. crank engine fuel pump runs. no injector pulse 12 volts are present at injector no spark. while cranking theft lite on solid. scanner shows 253 rpm with cranking. MAF reads 0 w/KOEO. While cranking shows MAF shows 1.93v. Spark advance reads 0. Short and long tern fuel numbers read 0 O2 voltage reads .235 When you stop cranking MAF reads high around 277V, Probe MAF connector good ground red wire 12V yellow wire 5V.

try resetting the theft device on the car. also see if there are any iginiton pulses, no pulses , no injectors will work... here is for resetting theft..

My 1996 Buick Skylark won't start. I replaced the fuel pump and the relay. At that time it started up like a champ. I drove the car about 3 miles parked it and went to leave and now the car wont start. Help

Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a spark plug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem,Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

I thought it was the timing chain had jumped a tooth.
i removed the timing cover and the chain looks fine, the marks match up. The car want start without nearly flooring the gas, it never revs up, it just spits and sputters and then cuts off. I checked voltage from all 6 banks and was getting a good spark, replace the plugs, still want crank. and run right. im thinking crank position sensor but the 3100v6 has 2. and i don't know which one, and as a side not she has been driving around for 3 years with no gauges.could that be the problem or or could it be the PCM that is messing everything up?

the engine is spinning, it just running like it is running out of time, has no power and will not stay running .

So does the engine sound different when cranking? like it isn't smooth. Is the check engine light on? if so need to scan for codes, this may help find out what is wrong.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

the engine cranks normal, engine sounds fine cranking, it has good fire to all plugs, and good fuel pressure.

A scan of the PCM will most likely tell which sensor is bad, cam or crank sensor.

i scanned the computer and fianally got a code, p0300, random cylinder misfire.

Need to verify injector pulse. Use a noid light or a test light.One side of every injector plug has power. the PCM uses ground to trigger it, so find the power side and then switch the test light clamp onto the +battery post, have someone crank the engine and the opposite side of the injector plug should light the light in flashes. If not it is missing injector pulse.

i checked the injectors, all 6 of them are pulsing the test light as the engine spins.

Time for a compression test. If it has injector pulse, spark and fuel pressure all that is missing would be compression to make it run.

i was fooling around with it today, tried to crank it, and noticed it wasn't firing. then all of a sudden it started back firing, but still misfiring on multiple cylinders. for the life of me i can't figure this out. i'm wondering if it's not the crank position sensor, but i really don't have any idea.

a few weeks ago my car started having the door chime go off when you turn the car off and take the key out but when you shut the door it would stop. also when you tried to start it it was hesitant to start. just got a new starter today put in. but now the door chimes even when you shut the door and now i think it drained the battery because it wont start, but the exterior lights stayed on.

Is there a a door jams switch on the body? If not it's in the lock assembly. You will need to remove the door panel and unplugged the switch to stop it.