check engine light 25,26, and 71.

Code 25 and 26 are rich and lean running conditions.

Code 71 is a fault with the EGR system. Try cleaning the EGR system first.

check your fuel pressure first i'm taking it that this is a 2.2L engine your egr is malfunctioning so check for vacuum lines off,etc. fuel pressure should be 33-38 psi if belwo that , then that can cause your lean condition. you'll have to hook up gauge like shown auto parts stores have them for rent.

OK, If I find out the gauge read very low then 33 psi, what should I do next things? And my car year 1995 had OBD 1. Do you know about the new scanner had both of OBD1/OBD2, is it reading live Data information from black box with car running warm?

if your scanner will read both obd1 plug it in and see what you get. if you are running 33psi i wold recheck it and replace the fuel filter ans see if that makes a difference. you don't need the car running to get codes just the key turned on.

Okay, Hmac300. I really say thank for more help , but not finishing at yet... There no more Check engine light, but engine still bad idle, also run smooth, weird life. Because I pull off EFI fuse to clear off code, snipe. I found out , that I pull off the EGR valve with copper pipe fitting remove, these part clog of EGR's connect lower right side of vacuum hose, it had alot carbon full clog... Wow, I cleaning hose with EGR Male connect tip... I will put back soon. Let see engine run smooth or not. I need help something more , text later.

try to clean as deep as you can and the valve as well.

This time , I'm going to clean all the parts of fuel injectors, EGR valve, cleaning whole fuel line delivery pipe and injectors as an assembly... Do you think to replace Fuel Pressure Regulator or cleaning spray carberator can, and air pressure blow.

For this engine the fuel pressure regulator seldom fails and nothing much needs be done.

Anyway, it look pretty bad shape of Toyota Camry, these very difficult of all connection plug falling parts in whole engine, it like turn hardend plantic plug and seal breaking so easly. Then I replace all new Denso Fuel Injector Connector Blitz Sard Toyota . And I already build the pipe with hose connect of air compressure, 20 psi and Fuel Cleaner Can to test the fuel injection , spray very well and clean good... It nothing wrong with fuel injection and fuel pressure regulater. I will put everthing back of fuel injection soon after order new 4 injection's o-ring seal kits, that really bad hardend o-rings.... Maybe that where air leak intake in 4 fuel injection's o-ring leak and hardend....

Hope it works.

Today, I finish, everything back on the engine to start the car , it seem not going be better, so far the fuel injection o-ring new and tight seal property on fuel assembly... I wonder why, this car not go up higher rpm for cold start engine , 2000 rpm... It still low rpm below 900 rpm idle at cold start and time to drive more then 30 minutes, still low idle same thing very bad misfire.... Now, I have no good to get the fuel test gauge not fit of top fuel filter fitting.... it not going to do anything to fit the fuel gauge... I am stuck anyway. please give a change to figure out, what wrong with rpm and idle... I already change new idle control cost over $230.00 .... Japanese crazy thieve... I hate it,

If the IAC is working correctly, the idling speed should increase at cold start. Is the circuit working. Check for trouble codes again and see if there are any that has gone away or any that is new. If you did not erase the codes previously, do so and retest till new codes comes back.

Okay, I already clear out the codes from removed EFI fuse last night till morning... I check the Line from ECU terminal's wire of green/red line and green/yellow line to end of connection plug (Idle Control's plug terminal) ... And one Black/orange line had power 12 voltage. All wire just fine... I start the engine to drive on the road, more then 15 minutes... No new codes at yet and still bad idle stall many time after stop the traffic light, still very low idle rough. But it drive or race very good. It so wierd ... Then I test scan on engine light, these light was said, Flashing,flashing, and over again flash light ... My god, I already change ECU from Advance Auto Parts last second time few mouth ago. What the "Flashing mean, it bad ECU?"

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995

Check the above link for how to retriee the trouble codes and understand what they says.

Bte if you have not cheecked the valve clearances, give it a try to see if they are within specs.

Okay, I have a book owner's manual of import vehicle code reader, same you gave us the information code .... It say, Flashing one per 1/2 second, it mean that normal... I surprised about the ECU code read work fine and normal .... So, the engine Idle still misfire or rough ... That reason , Camry stalled sometime stall again after stop traffic light... But it drive or race still good, so weird again.... Anyway.... I will check the compressor gauge and fuel pressure test too...

Did you replace the IAC only or completed throttle body? If only IAC, did you clean the throttle body? Did you adjust the idle speed?
At operating temperature, what is the idling speed?
Have you checked the valve clearances?

All right , I got read 41 ips fuel pressure gauge at engine off with jumper at B+ and FP test ,Key on... And then remove jumper from B+ and FP test, remove the vacuum hose to the fuel regulator and plug end hose. Measure gauge read say, 39 ips at engine idle... And test again for reconnect hose back to fuel regulator , measure read 38 ips at engine idle... So , I think of fuel regulator come out not match in my book (Chilton's Manul Book)...

I all ready got new idle control and cleaning Fuel Injection done.

Was complete throttle body replace with IAC or only the IAC was replaced?
Are there any trouble codes now?
The fuel pressure is higher than specifications by 1 psi when idling with vacuum. This migh cause a rich running condition and can result in engine stalling.

I replaced new IAC from Advange Auto Parts and cleaning the throttle body with air blow and gas cleaner spray can... There no any new codes for engine running alot of hours so far... Do you think Fuel regulator bad? That I got my chilton book for test , it surpose be measure the fuel pressure at idle on 31-37 psi. I have read fuel pressure gauge say, over 38-39 psi. It too high, right... I try out the engine kick higher 2000 rpm, it reading the gauge say very low then 35 as possible, then I let the engine back to idle go up to read gauge say again over 38-39 psi. This book say , it must be idle for 31-37 psi. Okay, then I check each compressure gauge test read , 180 psi (1), 180 psi (2), 179 psi (3), 181 psi (4) cylinder... It hold pressure more then 5 min. All stay up very good cylinder...

Oh man, I was wrong type on first one on replied , I mistake about the car running was 38-39 psi for idle with vacuum to fuel regulator then I kick 2000 rpm , read over 45-50 psi as possible , I let go idle back read gauge say again over 38-39 psi... This book say, it must be idle for 31-37 psi. Thank you.

Yes, the specification is 31- 37 psi while idling with vacuum.

Compression readings are normal.

Check the valve clearances. If you have insufficient clearances, it can cause erratic idling.

Check the valve clearances...Which one on engine's head valve or IAC ?

Engine valve clearance, tappets are they are sometimes referred to.

Oh I see, I know that valve lifter had no adjust and hydraulic lifters. It just solid tappets made of Toyota. I'll check the gap of valve clearance. If these come out no good clearance, maybe replace the valve with spring as possible.

No, the adjustment is by replacing the valve shims with required size.
You need to record the clearance of each valve and then measure the thickness of each shim originally on each cylinder and total up (shim thickness + valve clearance).
After subtracting the desired valve clearance, you have the shim size required.

Wow, all the valve look very clearance... Last time, I replaced all the valves, valve's stem and valve's spring at 2004 year... It was 150,000 miles , because blue smoke tail pipe and dirty carbon build-up with bad oil... That happened I brought the Lexus Dealer was lease car before I brought 1995 Camry LE was 34,000 mileage at 1998. I was clean whole engine and rebuild engine kit seals... Today at 2012 , Camry over 257,000 . I have to remove engine head again to replace the valve's stems seal... I let you know , all valve still good clearance and camshaft look good , and no more carbon build-up.... I see 4 clylinder look like oil and little bit dirty carbon and I not sure to replace the clyinder ring, that compressure still good and spark look clean.

Sorry I am having problem following you.

Okay, valve clearance . All look fine , but all the valve stem bad and hardend as crack for leaking oil in cylinder ... That blue smoke from tail pipe really bad , so then I will replace the valve stem seals and cleaning up the engine till put back on engine block later ... let see , if the fuel pressure regulator is not within specifications for 1995 vehicles , 31-37 psi. If out of limit , replace fuel pressure regulator. Because the engine run idle with vacuum hose on fuel regulator , test was read 38-39 psi... That problem out of limit 31-37 psi , right.

Yes, the fuel pressure is slightly out of limits and could cause a little rich running conditions.

Okay, I already to replaced a new fuel pressure regulator ... And change all new valve stem seal, it no more blue smoke from tail-pipe... It look pretty good, but the engine still funny misfire something wrong and like to drive on high way really smooth ... Most time to stop traffic light, it feel something weird misfire of little stall but engine still not stalling at yet and check engine light never show anything as possible, nothing.... I wonder why? I already to remove engine head from block for change the valve stem and cleaning all the block and head , also valve clean too...

Misfiring and erratic idling are 2 diffferent symptoms and I do not know which is the exact problem, can you reconfirm?

No, it not erratic idling... Right now and still misfire something go on... It like no misfire few second till misfire again somtime after stop at traffic light... Okay, First I start the cold engine go up a little bit 1000 rpm till go down lower at 800 rpm so short time , (3 second warm start).... So, I don't see anything no more smoke from tail-pipe, because I rebuild new valve stem look nice... Anyway, I drive the car fast to go so good about 1 mile and then stop car at parking lot, these engine seem misfire again , it sound misfire so many time... I do believe the fuel injector problem.... Not sure, I never replace all fuel injector, only clean and test 12 voltage battery connetion at spray gas pressure seem look good and test ohm meter, read measure the resistance of each injector should good... It funny man...

Recheck the spark plug and wires. Have the wires ohmed out and see if any has a problem. Ensure the wires are tight and snug when plugged in.

Well, I check many times with whole new sparks, distribution body complete replaced, and spark wire change too. All ignition module system too... I did pull off each spark wire from engine run idle sound different missing spark for test spark outside ... So, it normal to put back on each test spark. This time, I order the new Equus Products Digital Timing Light gun from Sears... I will set timing right... That because I changed the new distribution body without set timing last six mouth ago... Maybe timing set pretty off little bit degrees. I let you know. If these timing set right or not, then I will check fuel injector each test ... Do you think I have to find how I am going to do with fuel injector test with contect signal or flashing light something?

Incorrect ignition timing can result in erratic idling as if the engine is misfiring. I don't think you need to test the ignition signals because the signals are good based on what you have. If it is a fault with the injectors, it most probably is the injector is either clogged and sending too little fuel or it is not closong correctly causing excessive fuel to be dumped in.

However your description seems to point to ignition sparks rather than fuel problem.

All right, I check a fuel injector connection plug out of each for test to start engine idle go missing and rough cylinder , count fuel #1 rough, #2 misfire, #3 rough, #4 rough idle... It look seem #2 misfire as same like before that ... I think #2 fuel injector not working right, when I plug out #2 fuel connection plug go misfire so far , random misfire. I'm no experience be mechanic better. Not sure, it that reason misfire as possible...

Ok, I found out that not fuel injector and ignition too, both still good... And engine light does not of any code at yet, it normal... I believe the engine head's problem , bad head possible... It really misfire , that I rise a feeling the engine's 1,500 rpm with my foot panel at parking a lot ... Wow, I didn't know not to drive test like that, because it so smooth on the road... Park a lot it different feel engine misfire.

Have you tested the compression?
Check the valve clearances.
Check the EGR, try disconnecting the vacuum of the EGR valve and plugging it.

All right, I was so idiot not to used my finger tip at feeling on valve lifter clearance , it so smooth shim from camshaft. Now , you are right about that. I brought the feeler gauge 26 blades. So, I found out , it feel shim under cam measured... Number Intake were 1) .009 , .008 ; 2) .009 , .011 ; 3) .008 , .008 ; 4) .008 , .008 ; Exhaust were 1) .009 , .005 ; 2) .011 , .011 ; 3) .008 , .009 ; 4) .012 , .012 ; ... Done right now , I am shock my wife really good to fine online, they have a shim parts order service . Toyotapartsoverstock.com ... And I already check EGR were look good and compression too.