no spark at plugs?

It sounds like the pickup coil for the ignition is not working but we should run down this guide to help us see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system


Please run down this guide and report back.

Electrical problem
1994 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

i have a 1996 chevy blazer 4.3 v6 4wd.
i have spark to the distributer, but no spark out.
i replaced the ignition module(the old one did test bad, and the new one does test good)but still no spark.
i tested the pick up coil, and it tested fine.

any body have any ideas?please?

Hello, if your saying, you took the coil wire loose from the cap, held close to engine ground, engine cranking, there was spark from the coil wire? It either the cap or rotor. Can't think of anything else? Maybe I misunderstood your post?

thats it, i get spark out of the coil, but no spark from distributor.cap and rotor seem to be fine, worn, but fine.

The cap and rotor are maintenance issues, if it has been awhile, replace them.

v-6, 4.3L. 192,000 miles. Ran great, started fine. new battery. Started, drove one block and died. Has not started since. No spark anywhere (plugs, ignition coil, distributor). Distributor rotor? Timing Chain? How do I troubleshoot beyond not getting spark?

This sounds like an ignition module. Take it off and have it tested. If it's bad replace it, but start there, do not go changing things until you comferm that they are bad. Autozone or a place similar will do this for free..Let me know how you make out..

Thank you, going to do this tonight and will get back to you...

[quote:f3c7cbcab2="pear69"]This sounds like an ignition module. Take it off and have it tested. If it's bad replace it, but start there, do not go changing things until you comferm that they are bad. Autozone or a place similar will do this for free..Let me know how you make out..[/quote:f3c7cbcab2]

So i took out the Ignition module, took it to Autozone, they tested, and it was dead as a door nail! $29.99 later the truck pur's like a kitten! THANK YOU!!!!!

Hi been working on my 93 chevy blazer just quit on me have no sprak or fuel changed coil and pick up coil. Still will not start but if i leave it over night then try to start it next day it will start runs great then stalls. May start again but after it stalls out again nothing not spark or fuel.. It does have auto start not sure if that has anything to do with i.. Hope you can help thanks..

Possible Causes & Corrections:  Ensure hot air tube is connected to air cleaner.  Check thermostatic air cleaner for proper operation.  Check Idle Air Control (IAC) system for proper operation.  Check PCV valve for proper operation.  Unplug MAP sensor. ECM substitutes a default value for sensor signal. If stall condition is eliminated, replace sensor.  Check EGR system for proper operation.  If stall occurs when air conditioner is turned on, check for air conditioner clutch signal to ECM terminal. Voltage at A/C terminal of ECM should be battery voltage when air conditioner compressor clutch is engaged. A high voltage surge due to a shorted compressor clutch diode could cause ECM shutdown.  Check for an overcharged A/C system.  Check for plugged or restricted fuel lines.  If engine starts but then immediately stalls, open distributor by-pass circuit. If engine now starts and runs okay, replace distributor pick-up coil.  Using Spark Tester (ST-125), check for a weak spark from ignition coil. Check crank sensor for signal when it wont start. Also was/is service engine soon light on? Read like this. Cross these two terminals as shown with a piec of wire, then turn the key on. Count the flashes, a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 12. Write them down and post here. This connector is right under the middle of the dash...

the codes i got are 22 and 34 thanks for the help bro. Hope these are the reasons

Try unplugging the MAF and see if it runs. Usually this is the TPS, replace that first. THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR 1. Install jumper wires to enable connection of a DVOM in parallel between TP sensor harness connectors. Connect DVOM positive lead to Dark Blue wire terminal. Connect negative lead to Black wire terminal. See Fig. 3 . 2. Turn ignition on, engine off. Signal voltage should gradually change from less than one volt at closed throttle to about 5.0 volts at wide open throttle position. If reading is not as specified, replace TP sensor. 3. TP sensor circuit malfunction should set a related trouble code. For further information, see appropriate TESTS W/CODES article in this section. Also see TPS ADJUSTMENT in ADJUSTMENTS article in this section.

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR 1. MAP sensor circuit malfunction should set a related code in ECM memory. See Fig. 1 . If a code is present, see appropriate TESTS W/CODES article in this section. An out-of-calibration sensor may not set a trouble code. Use following procedure to test sensor calibration. If driveability problems exist, MAP sensor failure is suspected and no MAP code is present, disconnect MAP sensor connector. If driveability condition improves, check MAP vacuum hose for splits, kinks, proper routing and blockage. If no problems are found, replace MAP sensor. 2. With ignition on and engine off, check MAP sensor parameter using a scan tester connected to Data Link Connector (DLC). Voltage should be as specified in MAP SENSOR VOLTAGE RANGE table. 3. If MAP sensor voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified, check for 5-volt reference supplied to sensor. Check harness integrity. If no problems are evident, replace MAP sensor. 4. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, apply 10 in. Hg to MAP sensor and note voltage change. Voltage should drop to about 1.0-2.5 volts less than specified in table. If voltage is not as specified or voltage reading does not immediately follow vacuum change, MAP sensor is faulty.

those would make not have sprak anf fuel

Not usually a spark, but could be a fuel problem...did you check all fuses marked IGN? Under the hood fuse box? And what does the security light on the dash do 1.) before you insert key? 2.)after you turn ignition to just ON position? and then crank?

Heres the big problem, Ive been working on cars for 28 years, ha ha .Just stumped, got this 4.3 in a blazer my son asked me to look at, not running and no spark, checked out all things, wires,coil,module,pickup coil, etc. found that the housing around the pickup coil was broken, found good used dist. at salvage,motor was running it came out of I heard it myself. put it in had spark, motor ran for3 min.died no spark. started checking wireing to coil,starter,dist, etc. had used coil sitting around laid it on other one hooked up had spark, motor ran 30 sec. died, no spark, Checked for codes but son removed all fuses to check out and that cleared them. I'm stumped is it the computor or what with the way this is happening im at a lose.

Hi tazbone, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Jump start the coil from the battery if it continues to -check the ignition primary circuit and the ignition switch-both okay last place is the computer

My vehicle is a K1500. Engine just cranks, no spark, tachometer does not move on dash panel. Fuel pump/sending unit/tank all replaced. Fuses all checked, relays all good. Ignition control module has been tested, and ignition coil replaced. Engine has only has 20,000 miles since full rebuild, and the spark plugs have been changed recently. Fuel pump primes when key is turned to on position, but engine just cranks.

Has the distributor been taken out during this issue?

The Medic

Also,

With the key 'on', What is the voltage to the positive side of the coil?

The Medic

Electrical problem
1992 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 150k miles

Just turns over, will not fire. Getting gas, not getting spark. Checked the terminals on battery, ground cable at block and body. Nothing happening at the coil. Have had similar incidence on a full size van, but it was a bad ECM. After changing coil, checking numerous fuses. Your insight is greatly appreciated.

Could be the ignition module in dist. they can check at Auto Zone

I appreciate your feedback, but, if it won't start, how am I going to check it at autozone?

It is on the right side valve cover black little box. Remove take to them

Ahh, ok. Didn't know it was a part that could be off the vehicle to be tested there. Will do that, and be back in a few. Again, thanks for your help.

I fig'd out the problem. The cathode on the coil broke internally. Wasn't allowing power to it. Replaced that, runs superb. Thanx for all your insight.

Electrical problem
1991 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 1991 Chevy Blazer with the 4.3 vortec motor and have no spark. I am completely lost I have replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition module, coil and still no spark..What else could it be? What am I missing? Please help.

Test the distributor pick-up coil resistance should be 500-1500 ohms.

Very good diagnostic work you may have a new ocupation

Ok put a new pick up coil in and nothing changed....what next...

Do below

getting fuel to carb but not thru to electronic injectors, no spark also, but have replaced distributor, pick up coil, coil pack, cap and rotor, control module, wires, ignition module, but still no spark or fuel, has plenty of cranking power but no spark or fuel to go ?

This one is easy for me to help you with.
No fuel and no spark usually means the fuse is burnt.
Also you may have to crawl underneath and check the wires to the pump very close. Even way up in the sheilding, (the black cover over the wire groom). There are also relays in the back of the glove compartment that you can check with a meter for continuity.
Also check for leaks on the intake where the fuel lines come in. If your fuel pressure isnt high enough, the onboard computer will not allow the engine to have fuel or spark, a saftey thing to keep ya from burning up....LOL
You can purchase those little O rings in kits to stop the leak if you seen a leak. After replacing the O rings and the other afformentioned things are done, just undo the positive battery terminal for 10 to 15 minutes to allow for the onboard computer reboot to initialise and then everything should be restored if all is well.

Checked the Coil and it has no fire. What can I do next?

check for power on the positive side. then check for pulsing power on the negative while cranking.

if no pulse, suspect module and/or pick up coil.

if no voltage, then the coil is bad

Roy

I will try to make this as clear as possible. I have an 89 s10 blazer V6, 2WD, 4.3L, TBI. The engine cranks bu no spark from the coil. First I checked for battery voltage both at the coil and at the distributor which I do. Then I checked both the coil and the distributor with the multimeter and both parts seem to be good....now I am lost.

one side of the coil has 2 wires on it, red(or pink) and white and the other side is where I should get the spark. Now I said I have 12 volts on the red wire but I DO NOT KNOW WHAT THE WHITE WIRE IS ON THE COIL. The wiring diragram shows red from ignition switch, then to the coil, and then to the distributor, and the the white wire is coming from the instrument cluster, to the other side of the coil(same side for spark), then to the distributor.

What am I missing? is the white wire the problem?

I can also be emailed at [email protected]
Thanks for your time in advance.
Joe

First I would check all you fuses, Then with multimeter, Test to see if youre igintion switch is getting power if not, The switch morely dead, Also You might have a problem with dist Module, inside the dist, Not allowing the power current be transfered.

My Truck will turn over but i'm not getting any spark. I Replaced the plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor & Ignition Moduale. The Module is what I thought it was but I still don't have a spark.

Are you getting power to the coil? Do you get spark from the coil wire?

I have volts to the coil but no spark. There is also no spark to the #1 Plug wire. I also have volts to all plus of the module.