Left wheel drags

test 4 brake drag by opening bleeder screwz

Ruled out brakes, wheel bearing/hub, see original question, thanks for the fast response.

I did see that, but you didnt say how you ruled them out? The more info you give me, the better I can diagnose the problem, dont forget, all I can do is read about it, no hands on here! Please post the info or try the test and reply back?

I removed brake pads put the wheel back on. So what your saying is open the bleeder screw and drive the car to see if there is still drag. Ok. I talked with a local transmission shop last week and explained about the drag with the front wheel jacked up with it neutral and in gear. The mechanic told me that that test would tell me nothing as that is normal sometimes.... I thought i was getting somewhere. How would a trans. shop diagnose the problem?

I'm going out to bleed my brakes again as I don't have any at the moment. Then I'll try opening the bleeder screw on that side and drive it. If nothing changes what do you suggest next. Thank you for your help.

Ok bled brakes per manufacture. checked for leaks. Brakes still won't pump up while driving until after 5-7 pumps then they will grab until released. The peddle then goes back to the floor. checked brake booster for vac leaks and it passed the 3 tests that was recommended. The up side is the front wheel didn't seem to drag anymore. Although the car doesn't have much take off power and cuts out during acceleration.

please do not drive any car with an open brake bleeder or leaks in the brakes! a crash will follow! the only things that will cause wheel to lock up or drag are brakes and bearings. Improper pad installation is common.

is the service engine soon light on?

It's been on for years. tried to clear it once but wasn't able to.

When I get to the home compter I will post picture and proceedures to read the codes, this is important to solve issues.

PROCEDURES FOR READING GM FLASH CODES
1. Turn the ignition switch ON but do not start the engine.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" light come on indicating the bulb is working. If the light fails to come on, the bulb may be burned
out or there may be a problem in the Check Engine light circuit.
3. Locate the diagnostic connector for the computer. It is usually located under the instrument panel near the steering
column. Insert a jumper between the "TEST" and "GROUND" terminals.
CAUTION: Refer to a shop manual for the proper terminal locations. Jumping the wrong terminals may cause damage to the
computer system!
4. The Check Engine should now flash. The first code should be a code 12 (Flash, Pause, Flash Flash). Code 12 will repeat
two times.
If any other trouble codes are in the computer's memory, they will be displayed in numerical order starting with the lowest
number, and repeat three times. The codes will continue to repeat as long as the test terminal remains grounded.
NOTE: BE SURE TO WRITE DOWN ANY CODES THAT ARE PRESENT
NOTE: GM may use the same code number for different faults on different models of vehicles. That's why some code
numbers list more than one possible cause.
5. To exit diagnostic mode, turn ignition switch off and remove the jumper.
HOW TO CLEAR TROUBLE CODES
Trouble codes on most older vehicles can be cleared by removing battery voltage from the computer for at least 10 seconds.
Make sure the ignition switch is OFF, then remove the computer fuse from the fuse panel. Disconnecting the battery will also
work, but doing so will also cause the loss of stored information and presets in other electronic accessories such as the
radio, climate control system, memory seats, etc. Disconnecting the battery can also cause the computer to forget long term
fuel calibration adjustments, and may affect the operation of an electronic transmission until the computer can "relearn" the
shift points.
The preferred method of clearing trouble codes is to use a scan tool.
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Ok, I tried checking codes but the light would not flash. it does come on though. I've used that method before and it worked. I then when to O'reily's and rented an OBD1 scan tool. It couldn't read the codes either. The wiring on the ADL Connector didn't look right. It had a tan wire going to the A terminal and a black wire to the M connector. My book says the B terminal should be the test wire which I think is the Tan wire. So I moved it there. and black is the ground which should be the A terminal so I moved it there. Then re-tried the scan tool but it didn't read it still... There is a green wire also at the J terminal. but those are the only wires to the ADL connector.

I believe the wheel wasn't the problem (dragging). now as it has does good in reverse. It just lacks power in all drive gears. And since it cuts out when accelerating, I believe it's in Limp-home mode. And since I can't read codes from the ECM, that my computer is bad. I pulled all the plugs and Cleaned and re-gapped them but it didn't help.

So how do I check my computer or what should I do next, I appreciate your help. I have to move soon so I need to get this done. It suppose to rain all weekend so hurry back if you can.

Check all fuses even the ones under the hood, look for Cigar lighter and ECM, IGN fuses, one may be burned out causing your problem with reading codes, also check the connectors to the ecm for moisture, corrosion, bent or pushed out pins.

I have this same problem on a 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix. The front tires do not spin at same time. It studders while accelerating. Very poor gas mileage. No check engine light is on.

Hi,

I need to get a better understanding of what you are experiencing. Do you mean the brakes are locked up? If so, we can make a couple of checks to see what is happening, but I need to confirm exactly what is happening.

Let me know as much as you can to help me diagnose the issue.

Take care and I look forward to hearing from you.

Joe