the wheel being tilted has to do with the suspension alignment. there are shims on the upper ball joint that can be adjusted,

as far as the rotor being loose, check the wheel bearings.

Roy

ok one person told me it is the bearings and another told me it is the control arm bushing, also would a bad alignment make the ball joint or wheel bearing go bad ? thanks!

were these people from a real shop??

yes, a bad alignment would do this as well as worn aprts but you cannot align a car with worn out suspension parts.

Roy

a bad alignment would likely be hard on your tires but should not have any bearing on your bearings. haha

lol ok, also are the spindle bearings and wheel bearing the same ?

one more thing, its the passenger side, the driver side hub and rotor dont have any play and dont sit slanted!

SOUNDS LIKE THE BALL JOINTS TO ME

I SURE WOULDN'T BE STILL DRIVING IT.......I MIGHT WOULD CREEP IT TO A SHOP AT 10-15 MPH

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-ford-explorer-car-shakes

THE MEDIC

im not and not going to drive it until i fix the problem, whatever it might be but if it is the ball joints, it looks like a hard job with only one person, if i lift the tuck on one side only and try to move the tire out and inward and it has play, its either the ball joints or bearings ?

Hold the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock. Shake the tire left and right. Move your hands to 12 and 6 0.clock. Repeat process. If it is wheel bearings, the amount of travel should be similar.

While performing the above, note which area has movement.

Turn the wheel manually and test if the wheel wobbles. For wheel bearings failure, the brake pedal would seem low the first time you depress the pedal wihile driving and if you pump the pedal a second time the height would increase. There is a possibility you would feel the brake pedal pulsing and felt at steering wheel. If it is the arms, the brake pedal feel should not differ much.

the hub and rotor ONLY moves up and down not left to right being held at 12 and 6

i got stuck on the inner lock nut, it comes half way off the thred shaft, but then gets stuck, i can move it back to tighten it but only about 1/2 way forward, then i wont move, i stripped the 4 hole nut a little because it seems the socket does not go all the way to the back of the nut.

The bearings are bad and the lock-nut thread are most probably damaged. Get someone to depress the brakes while you remove the lock nut.

ok i got the inner spindle nut off finally, but the treds are stripped on the spindle its self NOT the locking nut, should i re-thread the spindle with a tap and die or get a new one?

If the threads are stipped, it is best to get a new spindle. Rethreading might not be strong enough to hold the nut and bearings and can result in the bearing failing again.