Can you explaine what is happening?

the dash lights and the runnning lights are not working,but everything else on the fuse circuit is working,also when bolt fell out and dash lights quit working,ASB light started flashing(just wondering if bolt hit something to short out a circuit?)

Everything is insulated, so the bolt shouldn't have caused damage to other things. However, it may have been a body ground that could have an affect on things.

does the bolt have threds and how long?

it was the gearshift lever bolt about 1 inch long,with machine threads. I tightend the bolt back in place which fixed the earlier problem with the sloppy shifter.I have also read that the problem could be a relay switch,module,or sensor,or headlight switch.

what is going on the parking and the dash light are 2 circits.

sorry to mislead you.yes they are on 2 seperate circuits...here it is step by step
I had problems with sloppy gears shift,the bolt fell out from the gear shift,and the dash lights quit working,and the ABS light started flashing,that was a month ago.this week the daytime run lights,(or parking lights)do not work any more,dash light fuse is still good as is the fuse for the running lights.most of all I need to know how to fix the running lights as I can not drive it at night with no running lights.

I donated and no one can answer my question,what gives?

is the shift bowl lose or just the pin and handle.day time running lights are only the headlights and the parking lights are with turn signal lenses.when you say dash lights are you talking about illumanation or the digits.we are trying to understand what your asking.

shifter is fine,put bolt back in,forget shifter.
okay when I say running lights they are the ones you see when the head lights are on,and dash lights are illumanation,also what happens is when I turn on the headlight switch the rear ABS inicator light flashes continuasly until I turn key off,and will stay off until I turn headlight switch on again,but only with engine running,with lots of reading on my part also.I am hoping it is just the headlight switch,but also found that it could be the lighting control module,could you send me a schematic of the area that would be located in(the lighting control module),or tell me where it is located if that is the problem,sound like that would be easier to replace than the headlight switch,
thanks

youll need a test light and have check the tailight fuse on both sides.if ok check the sockets for voltage and bulbs with the lights switch is set to parking lihts no headlights.if no you have no choice you have to remove the head light switch to check the voltage to the parking lights.do the brake light and signals oper.?dont start replacing parts!

yes brake lights and signal lights work,what do you mean check the tail light fuse on both sides?explain please.everything else on the fuse circuit works except the parking lights,back up lights work,etc.etc.and how do you remove the headlight switch?

a fuse has two blades that plug in the fuse panel both should show power.you cant fix this by looking get a test light and test the voltage.before the switch

no power at the fuse (0.00),how do you remove the headlight switch?I am 6 feet 5 inches tall,and wear glasses so I don't fit too well in a 3 foot square area,standing on my head.ley me know of the easest way to remove the switch.

thanks

turn the parking lights on and then you checked it right.

is the switch on the dash or signal lever?

the switch is in the dash,left side,.and yes I checked the fuse with the power on for the running lights,I have already checked everything.there is no power at the fuse.,,,,,,will i have to remove the dash to get to it as I can see there is no other way to get to the headlight switch?,and at this point,if I have to remove a bunch of stuff to get it out I mite as well replace it.I do not have a garage or a place to fix this out of the rain,and I live in Oregon,and tomorrow it's supposed to rain again,so please,just tell me how to remove the headlight switch,and the lighting control module,you sent me a schematic once before, can you do it again?,1994 FORD AEROSTAR with the biggest v-6 motor,2 wheel drive,non-Canadien,regular dash,non-digital
thanks

Here are directions for the switch:

1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Remove the retaining screws and lift off the cluster finish panel assembly.
3.Remove the left control pod assembly retaining screws.
4.Disconnect the wiring connector from the rear of the switch.
5.Remove the two lamp switch-to-control pod retaining screws and remove the switch.


I have attached an exploded view of the swith so you can see how everything is put together.

thank you,I will try that in the morning,and unlike others on other web sites I will keep you posted if this fixes the problem.

Okay.I replaced the headlight switch and the running lights still do not work,along with the dash lights,enclosed is a picture of the plug where it got so hot it melted some of the plastic,so next question is where is the Lighting Control Module located at,and what does it look like,the wires at the plug still look okay,not brittle or burnt.

some more picture I took,the scematic you gave me was for a 1987-89 model,a lot more was envolved to get at the switch.so be warned it is no easy task.lol

plug the switch in and check that voltage is being send through the switch to the parking light wire with the switch is on.

have you tested the switch yet?????

not too familiar with using a voltmeter,so I'm thinking the large black wire is the power,and the red wire is the parkinglight wire,(it is where the meltdown occured)if I touch the black wire to the red wire I get 6.46 amps.with the light switch on only for the parking lights.
there is also brown wire(dash lights),blue wire, tan wire,orange wire ,green wire,and a yellow wire,am I doing this right?

hello,
where are you?
so when you send me these questions why can't you add more of what to do.after I do what you say.
I am having a hard time convincing my wife that the $5.00 was well spent,after having spent 5 days on this,and basicaly answering my own problems,and I know $5.00 is nothing compared to how much it would cost to take it to a mechanic,so help me prove my wife wrong,we have narrowed it down to "what"?I will be in and out over the weekend,just tell me what you think it mite be?I'd rather just buy new parts than have the van down another week,now I can't drive it as the dash is torn apart.

thanks

does voltage go through the switch?check all the wires and find the one the voltage goes on when you turn the switch on and goes off when the switch is off.this is the parking light wire from the switch and goes is to the fuse panel.if you have no basic knowlodge about automotive electricial.your going to have someone check it.if you have any problems with our service pl send your concerns to 2carpros mike

EVER GO TRICK OR TREATING...................WITHOUT YOUR LITTLE BUCKET?

SORTA LIKE DIAGNOSING AND TESTING.....WITHOUT A VOLTMETER!

I'VE BEEN FOLLOWING THIS QUESTION, 'CAUSE IT INTERESTS ME

I'M A JEEP CJ KINDA GUY...IF YOU'LL DIG THRU THE CJ 5&7 FORUMS (AND OTHERS) YOU WILL SEE THAT I PROMOTE "DIY" TO THE FULLEST, AND I TRY TO AID ANYONE TO THE FULLEST EXTENT I CAN.

YOUR NEWER CYBER CONTROLLED RIG IS REALLY OUT OF MY LEAGUE, AS I "DO" THE OLD STUFF BEST...I'M LEARNING MYSELF, REASON FOR "FOLLOWING" THIS QUESTION...........I'M DARN GOOD MECHANICALLY, I I FEEL SURE I HAVE THE CJ STUFF PRETTY MUCH DOWN PAT, BUT I'M A PLUMBER BY TRADE

THE INSTRUCTIONS AND DIAGRAMS ETC. YOU HAVE BEEN GIVEN ARE OUTSTANDING!...IF YOU DON'T KNOW, OR ARE HAVING PROBLEMS...MOST OF THE GUYS WILL ASSIST YOU......IF YOU HAD A "REAL JEEP", I'D HOLD YOUR HAND THRU IT ALL (AND I DO!)

I'M NOT TRYIN' TO GET YOU MAD OR YOUR LADY UPSET.....I'M GONNA GIVE YOU FREE AND CLEAR OVER A $500 WORTH OF ADVICE, BUT IT'S GONNA COST YOU A ABOUT $40, TO DO ANY GOOD!

THIS IS THE ONLY WAY I CAN HELP YOU, SHORT OF SHOWING UP ON YOUR DOORSTEP!

1ST FIXIN' THIS YOURSELF WILL SURELY SAVE YOU $100-$1000 AT A SHOP...YA?

YOU NEED THIS ONE TOOL FOR SURE, MAYBE MORE TOOLING LATER

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Multimeter-measure-AC-DC-voltage-DC-current-and-resistance-diode-test-and-low-battery-warning-and-input-impedance-for-voltage-10-MegOhms/_/N-26lr?itemIdentifier=900834&_requestid=280085

I OR THE OTHER FELLERS CAN HELP YOU USE THE BASICS NEEDED ON IT...T'AIN'T HARD AT ALL...I'LL SLING SOMETHING AT YOU!

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=HOW+TO+USE+A+VOLTMETER&aq=f

GOSH I'M GOOD!

NOW HERE IS MY THING....HELP ON PAPER 24 HOURS A DAY....INTERNET NOT NECESSARY....EZily, SOMETHING TO HELP YOU UNDERSTAND SOME OF THE STUFF YOU HAVE HEARD HERE....PICS...DIAGRAMS....THIS IS WHAT I MEAN:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-taurus-tune-up

THE MANUAL COULD SAVE YOU THOUSANDS IN THE FUTURE!

AS FAR AS GETTING YOUR MONEY'S WORTH THUS FAR, SPENDING $15 AT THE PICTURE SHOW, WATCHIN', "CONNECTICUT YANKEE, MOVES TO JERSEY SHORE"......BASICALLY THERE, YOU ARE GETTING A BITE SIZE CANDY BAR (SWAWALLERED AND FORGOTTEN)---HERE, WE'RE GIVING YOU A "HEARTY MEAT AND POTATOES MEAL", YOU WILL ALWAYS REMEMBER

AS FAR AS WHAT'S GOING ON HERE....IF YOU GET LOST, NEED HELP WITH THE METER.....I WILL JUMP IN AND HELP/ OR YOU REQUEST I HELP YOU, I WILL DO ALL I CAN...I'LL ALSO LET YOU KNOW WHEN I'M GETTING "MISPLACED"

ARE YOU MOTIVATED NOW? GOT THE METER? READY TO TEST?

THE MEDIC

will have to wait til tomorrow,getting dark now and no light,no garage.so what if I am getting power thru the switch,or no power thru the switch,than what would be the next step,so I don't have to wait another 8 hours to hear from you,and maybe we can fix this problem.

a simple test light can be used for quick voltage checks.check for voltage at the fuse with parking lights on.then check for voltage coming through the headlight switch.its not going to jump up and say hear i am.first thing i told you was buy a test light it will save you$$$$$$$$$$

when I touch the light green wire to the brown wire the parking lights come on,(I got a wiring schematic from Napa auto parts for Free)other wise I would not know what 2 wires to touch.so whats next on the list,maybe the plug itself?

also forgot to mention,when I touch the light green wire to the light blue wire the dash lights work.

you got the schematic.check the parking light wire for voltage to turn on and off when your turning the switch off and on.if you tested for voltage on the fuse.the next thing you need to do is test for voltage being sent from the switch to the fuse panel.stop shorting wires together before you burn some thing out.check that you have the right headlight switch.

same thing with the old headlight switch,there is power from the switch to the fuse,and I am not shorting wires together I am using the volt meter,so everything works at the fuse,and everything works at the switch when I use the voltage meter to touch the wires together,and you still have no clue what it is,and your an expert!you are the most aggravating expert I have ever had to deal with on here,you answer questions with more questions and never give a clue if I going in thee rite direction,all my other problems were answerd reasonably fast and with detail,I feel you been leading me on,just for a laugh or two.good day sir,

I did refer this site to my friends,but not anymore,and I will complain to the site over your lack of help.

Thank You,for the ULCER

AS A BYSTANDER, THE WAY I'M SEEING THIS SORTA GOING IS:

PATIENT: I THINK MY NOSE IS BROKE, DOC.

DOCTOR: YOUR NOSE IS HURTING WHERE?

PATIENT: MY WRIST HURTS, AND WHEN I BEND MY TOES, MY KNEE TURNS RED

DOCTOR: WHICH SIDE OF YOUR NOSE HURTS

PATIENT: MY FRIENDS DOCTOR SAID IT COULD BE GOUT--DO YOU HAVE A PAMPHLET ON DIABETES?

DOCTOR: DOES YOUR NOSE STILL HURT?

PATIENT: YOU ARE A QUACK--I DON'T LIKE YOU ANYMORE!


THAT'S JUST MY ASSESSMENT---I ALMOST WISH I COULD HIT THE "UN-FOLLOW THE QUESTION" BUTTON

THE MEDIC

obviously you have not been following the question from the beginning,when I first wrote it, it only copied part of the question,which cause some confusion,which I tried to get them to not think about the bolt it took 2 days to get them to stop thinking about the bolt.than I remembered Mechanics are like engineers if you do not do it exactly like they say,and I mean exactly to the (T),they have tizzy fits and refuse to help you.Like the comments it's not going to jump up and bite you,or go buy a test light like I told you!and you will save dollars,is not a comment a customer wants to here,what would have been better,would be(you will need to get a wiring schematic to know what wires you are dealing with,and you may need to buy a test light to check the wiring),all of his answers were very unproffesional,and if you can not work with the public you should not be on here,I wasted 7 days waitng for him to help me,but everyday,and sometimes 8 to 10 hours in between,I look for some kind of guidence only to get the same answer,that gave 10 hours earlier.I'm letting you know this as I am not a dummy and should not be treated like one,I am THE CUSTOMER,and if you can't be a person that can work with the public you should not be on here.this is my last posting!

this was for CJ MEDEVAC