Shuts off while driving

take it to the parts store. have The battery load tested. Also have the alternator output tested.this will test the whole charging system. This problem sounds like a bad alternator.

This issue is most likely a crank sensor issue. Take a look at the guide below that gives a little more detail on it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

I attached the process on how to replace this and the info about the sensor itself. Basically the PCM thinks the engine was shut off and the engine just stalls. It doesn't start back up until the sensor is cooled down and makes contact again. This is typical in a hall effect sensor which is what your crank sensor is.

Please let us know what questions you have and we can go from there. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Dodge Intrepid Front Wheel Drive Automatic

i have a 1994 DODGE INTREPID ES
SEDAN 4 DR
3.5L V6 SFI SOHC 24V
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
My problem is when i start the car, and leave it sit it will idle fine and as soon as i turn my when to the far left and or far right, sometimes not even the far's my curse light comes on and my car stalls. This sort of stall is not a sputter stall it is short and to the point! Straight off. I'm thinking it might be an electrical issue ir even the fuel pump. before i go in to a project i wanted to ask around. and where better to go? i have herd some real good things about this site so im going to start here! Thanks for the help!
Rob

Is your check engine light on? If yes turn the key from off to on three times, on the fourth one leave it in the on position, count the flasshes...22 would flash as 2 blinks, then a short puase, then 2 more blinks...if several codes are stored, the pause is longer between codes, code 55 will be the last code...do this and post all codes found...
Any loud squealing?

Nope, The light WAS on but i literally just changed the oil so it is now out. all fuses are good and checked and like i said before, the only lights that come on is the green cruse light fallowed by the abrupt stall. no coughing or squealing.

You may need to crawl under it, look at the steering rack and see if any wires are in the way(rubbing). This sounds like some kind of contact short. Speedo working OK? Also give this test a try and if any codes flash write them down and post please. 55 is normal and will be the last code displayed.

55 is normal and indicates the last code, 12 is battery disconnected in last 50 starts, look under the dash, pay attention near the steering column, it looks like and sounds like a wire rubbing on the column, or the ignition switch may have a problem, loose connection possibly. I am not talking about the key, but the plastic piece the harness plugs into...

I Will add that i recently added a bottle of lucas oil injector cleaner to the fuel. like i said in the video, when i turned to the left it used to stall out, now it is only when i turn to the right. i checked over the wiring on the inside of the car, i have to crawl up under and see if there are any exposed wires. im only looking for moving parts that would cause the short right?

OK, also get under the dash and check below. instead of turning the wheel, wiggle some wires, when you tug the right one it should stall, then trace that wire and check it, and it's connector. Pull connector apart and inspect for bent pins or pushed out pins.

ok, i will do that later today and post an update, i hope it works! thank you for the help!

will be here!

I moved and tugged on all the wires under the dash and under the car- hood. Nothing stalls out. I will add that when I turn I hear the power stearing stress out then it stalls. But again no wires.

First, when turning the wheel, you should NOT hold it against the stop in either direction, this stresses the pump and all seals, so release it a bit at the far stops. Next make sure nothing is being rubbed under the car while turning the wheel. If you release the wheel at the end stops, will it stall or not?

when i turn it almost grabs the wheel and then stalls, but my neighbor came over and mentioned something about a cable going to my strut that might have something to do with the problem. he put air in the tires (44psi) and drove it up and down the street a few times, after i told him there were no brakes he reversed over a curb going about 25 mph and destroyed my tire drivers back to be exact, he fixed the bumper(snapped in just that easy) then filled up the antifreze and it is not as bad now. it takes a lot to make it stall now, what ever it is the issue is beginning to be resolved.

OK, so it sounds like a wire was being rubbed by the strut? And now you have lost your brakes? 35 psi should be the Max on the tires...

Our intrepid has been stalling while driving. 3 times ( in the rain and again in snow) this month,towed each time.The crankshaft and camshaft sensors have been replaced. The car stalled out again during our first snow storm last week. The machanics cant seem to find anything wrong.
Unreliable and unpredictable!
Any ideas?

Thank you, Lori

Hi:
When it dies, is it all at once or does it start running poorly then die?

Joe

Our Intrepid stalls all at once, no for warning. The last time it stalled, we did get the engine to start about 10 minutes later, long enough to get it to the mechanic.The car starts the next day as if nothing was wrong.
Thank you, Lori

Our intrepid stalled out last night, again, thanks to the mid west rain storm. We could not get it to start back up this time. We are on our way to try and start it this morning, though it is still raining.
I have not gotten any responses for a while, I guess this car problem has every one baffled.
Thanks

[quote:da126640cb="Loraine44"]Our intrepid stalled out last night, again, thanks to the mid west rain storm. We could not get it to start back up this time. We are on our way to try and start it this morning, though it is still raining.
I have not gotten any responses for a while, I guess this car problem has every one baffled.
Update, car did not start, strong battery, but no luck.
Thanks[/quote:da126640cb]

I have 94 Intrepid. It has an intermittent problem where it stalls / shuts off without ryme or reason. It happens both at freeway and low speeds. There is no consistency to when it happens. It could happen after a couple of miles, after 100 plus, or not at all for days. When it does happen, after coasting to a stop I turn the key off wait a minute or so and the car will start back up. Sometimes it "Chugs" on start-up other times it starts as normal. The problem may or may not re-occur during the trip. There are no codes thrown, to date I have replaced the coil pack, and fuel pump assembly. Do you have any suggestions before I spend a ton of money on a new computer? What other components are involved in the ignition circuit between the coil pack and computer.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

It's never a good idea to hunt for a problem by replacing parts and hoping to hit the jack pot. It never works and only costs you a ton of money you might as well have just spent on a mechanic.

Now, when's the last time you changed spark plugs/wires, and your fuel/air filters??? If it's been way past the recommended service intervals, begin with this. Because it's hard to get accurate testing results for an engine not in proper tune.

Also, when you replaced the fuel pump, did you replace the filter also? And what about checking for water/debris in the fuel system?

As for you ignition, if your car is running, there's nothing you need to worry about between the computer and coil pack. And finally, if your car is only stalling once in awhile, and there's no codes, your computer is probably fine.

Thanks for the reply Ernest. The car has been the mechanic several times and they weren't able to duplicate the problem. Each time we'd pick the car up the problem would occur. The fuel pump / filter was replaced at the mechanics suggestion because of "strange / inconsistent" readings from his test. The fuel tank has been cleaned / dried / and had fresh gas in it. Plugs and wires were done mid last year. After researching the issue online i've found that several people have had the same problem and its turned out to be the coil pack, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, ignition switch or computer. I've replaced all but the ignition switch and computer and the problem still exists. The only real incosistency I can find is the reference voltage for the Cam Position Sensor coming from the computer. My manual says both it and the crank sensor should have a reference voltage of 8 vdc. My cam sensor only has 3.9 vdc.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott

Yes, your computer should definitely send out a reference voltage. I don't have ready access to what your voltage should be (There's a min-max range), but if your says 8V, then 3.9 is certainly waaay out of range. (Most computers send out a reference voltage of 5V)

But keep in mind, this is most often a bad connection at the sensor or corroded wires in your wiring harness. (The factory recommends thoroughly cleaning the sensor face and connectors when installing a crank/cam sensor)

The computers are usually the last in the line to go bad. So have your mechanic use his lab-scope or multi-meter to trace your complete circuit and check the sensors face for dirt, etc. before suspecting the computer.

Certified Technicians are trained to start with the simple and move to the complicated. Because it saves the customer time and money.

Since I've replaced the sensors i know the face and connections are clean / good at that end. I was surprised that it called for an 8v reference too. I'm used to most things having a 3-5v range. I couldn't find anything in the book that gave a +/- ranged from the 8. Since I'm a trained Harley Tech, i'm pulling out my meter and back tracing the wiring and connections hoping to find the issue. Since the car has been in and out of the shop and they cant find it i'm gonna take it on. Thats a little easier than paying them 90.00 an hour for troubleshooting hoping they find something.

Scott

Hi...this car recently started stalling on an intermittent basis. Most of the time it occurs while doing a quick slow down or stop, but it can happen at normal highway speeds. I have seen the cruise control indicator light come on for a few quick seconds sometimes when this happens. The cruise control does not work. Once the car stalls, most of the time it has to sit a few minutes before it will start again. But, there have been a few instances where it started again immediately. We are the original owners of the car and it has been maintained very well and is in otherwise excellent condition for its age. Thanks.

The first thing that I would check on this vehicle for the symptom is the Automatic Shut Down relay and the fuel pump relay. They are both located under the hood, inside the power distribution center (fuse box)

Hello Guys;
My son has had this car for about a year. It orginally was fixed for electrical problems. When he drives it sometimes it will stall and jerk, the check engine light and crusie light will pop on. He changed the spark plugs and wires and the coil pack, also the fuel pump and fuel filter. We would really appreciate any help you have to offer.

I can give you a possible area to look at but we still need the code/s the computer has something we don't know and we need that to establish a diagnosis. OBD1 code/s

Check the idle air control valve/throttle position sensor and the EGR then report back your findings is to what you performed and the results in these areas.

OK so my car is a 94 intrepid. 160k miles strong. About a month ago, I was driving to work, and my car shut off while I was driving. I pulled it off the road, tried to start it. It wouldnt do anything. I waited about 5 minutes, tried again, bam, it fired up. It was like wtf, but I drove it for 2 weeks, and it happend again, on the way to work. It wouldnt crank again, had to wait about 20 min this time. And anyway, its happening alot more often now. And the waiting period is even longer now, sometimes a whole day. SO i had a mechanic friend look at it. He said the coil pack wasnt being grounded. So he made a wire that went from the black wire (going into the coil pack) to the battery, and it fired up right away. He would place it on there to just start the car. Anyhow. It worked a few times, but now, it doesnt work. What do you think it could be? Oh, and obviously no spark when its not cranking

Start by checking your Automatic Shut Down relay. Power to the ignition comes from this relay.

The relay is inside the power distribution box, under the hood forward of left strut tower.