new brake lines. problem with brand new caliper grabbing

did you start bleading at the longest line with is right rear and then left rear then right front and fished up with the left front?

Just to add to this one the problem your having is a low pedal?It wont pump up if you pump it a few times?Are your rear brakes adjusted up correctly?You can actually loose the brake pedal height and braking all together from the rear brakes being too far out of adjustment on those cars.

You have abs on that car i didnt see it had four wheel disc when i posted my answer.If you do your supposed to run the the abs pistons up in the home position before starting to bleed the brakes.Then bleed the abs modulator on the master cylinder.Then rr Lr rf and Lf calipers.

being as i am a car novice, and i am having help with the car. what is the abs piston and what is the home position?

Do you see you modulator attached to the master cylinder?Now do you see the black plastic cover on the bottom of it?Under that cover are the pistons that keeps the wheels from locking Also long time no talk by the way.

yes long time no talk. just goes to show u car was running good after all that work that was done to it. til now. i see the black box under where the steel lines connect to the master, but i am unable to get to the box at present time. i only took a quick look and didnt have a lot of time to attempt to get at it. working 2 jobs and full time school means very limited tinker time. im currently getting around on a motorcycle but alas a motorcycle doesnt provide much protection at all from the rain.

I used to only have a motor cycle and had to ride rain or shine so i know what thats like.There is nothing to get at i will get you some more info later.

i feel at a loss and a little too much like a novice with how many questions i feel compelled to ask. but hopefully the end result will be my car back on the road. thanks louie.

More info to come.

I just posted the two wires for the rear motor/piston so you can unplug the motor pack and jump power and ground to those two wires to run the piston up then down when done bleeding.Heres the problem i dont know which way to run the power for each position.I have always just used the tech1 because i had one at the dealers i worked.

i am still confused about this home position. how do i know when these pistons are in the right position? or are you talking about using these pistons to bleed the wheels instead of the brake pedal?

Its only the rear piston that needs to be moved to the home position.The pistons is what releases pressure to keep the wheels from locking.What your doing is moving the piston out of the way to get the trapped air out.Again I don't know the correct polarity to put it in the correct positioN.Also no way of telling what position its in.Only thing I can suggest is bleed it in both positions wont hurt anything.Just becareful when first driving it since you don't know what possition the piston is in.

well good news is i did not have to worry about jumping the pistons to home position. found this >http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146855< so i just drove the car about 100 feet or so and made sure the abs light was off when i shut the car down. then i got air out of the caliper in the rear. however i think the auto parts store may have given me the wrong caliper for the passenger side. the bleeder screw is below the line instead of above the line where all the rest are. going to be checking into it monday. thanks

I have never bleed the brakes with the scan tool so good find.Also if the bleeder screw isn't at the top you have the wrong side caliper on there.

its the one the moron at the parts store gave me. so im gonna go back and bitch. wasted a whole bottle of fluid cuz they screwed up. at least its driveable. we bled some of the air out by lossening and tightening the line

Glad to hear your getting it figured out.

thats why it was the only caliper not grabbing at all. hopefully they will exchange it no charge if not they lost all my business. thanks again louie. ill let you know if it gets completely resolved.

They should exchange it keep me posted and as always your welcome anytime.

they exchanged it without trouble, but now being as the car has been sitting a while, whenever im driving down the road. i hit the clutch for a stop sign and the engine rpms go way down to either around 400 or it quits all together. last time i cleaned the battery terminals and it solved it. cleaned them this time but as of right now no luck. any help?

So the clutch is fully releasing a not dragging causing the engine to die?

clutch is fine. cuz i can hold the accelerator a little moment and it idles right above 1k as it should. it just idles really low when im coming out of gear and when the engine rpms are coming down to a stop.

Have you checked to see if the idle air control valve is dirty?

i have not. tonight, 8-29-12 driving across town it didnt do it once. hmm. im at a loss. ill check that out. where exactly is it located?

Bolted to your throttle body with two torx screws.It looks like a little motor has a flat plig going.Clean the port and the plunger of the valve use some carbon cleaner.If that doesnt work I have another thing that comes to mind.

well now the car is completely quitting almost 75% of the time when im stopping. hadnt had a chance to take the part off because for a while there it wasnt doing it at all. then about a week ago it started acting up again. would i just be able to replace the part? winter is drawing near and i work 36 hours a week on top of full time school so i have very little time to be taking things apart. thanks louie

You could just try replacing it there not super expensive. any codes?

no engine codes, just replaced the part now. went for a test drive. when pushing the clutch in to stop the engine revs at around 2kRPM and when completely stopped for 3 to 5 seconds engine speed starts to come back down as it did before. this is normal correct?

Try this take the negative battery cable off for about one min then put it back on and go for a drive.Also did you clean the iac port before putting the new iac on?

yes. my father reminded me to spray carb cleaner in and around it. car idles at 3k for about 45 seconds after finishing.

Yeah it will until the computer adjusts the iac back into the port.Did you try unhooking the battery for a min an hooking it back up?Also how is the coolant temp sensor?

the coolant temp sensor was recently replaced if memory serves me right. and no i have not had a chance to disconnect the battery quite yet. at least the car isnt dying at each stop sign now.

Atleast the dying is fixed let me know what you find.

still no chance to disconnect the battery, but idles down between 1200 and 1500 while rolling to a stop. seems normal to me.,

That sounds good just as long as when your stopped its not idling down for like 3 seconds.