1993 Saturn SL2 bang when shifting

1993 SATURN SL2
4 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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WOLFETUNDRA
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1993 Saturn SL2 (automatic) - I have been having issues with my Saturn. Repaired most. Took a 4 hour drive for Thanksgiving. After exiting the freeway, the car began to **** every time it shifted. It roughly feels like all 4 tires drop into a pot hole at the same time. It seems almost like I'm doing a "brake check" because I feel like I'm going forward in my seat when it shifts. As it stands, if I pull it out of gear (N) near the shift and put it back in gear (D), it completes the shift without the bang. I know this isn't good, but it's better than dealing with the bang. I pulled codes 32 (from engine light) and 69 (from the temp light). Any ideas?

I know 32 is about the PCM. I replaced my PCM a while ago. Just haven't had the money to get it reprogrammed.
Nov 30, 2010 at 1:42 AM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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Apparently the site sensors odd words. The word in **** is xjerkx minus the x's.
Nov 30, 2010 at 1:53 AM
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SATURNTECH9
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If your the person i remember talking to you replaced your alternator and pcm?Your code 32 is for the egr.If you have a code 69 that is the line pressure actuator shorted to voltage that would explain why your car shift's hard into every gear.Do you have a multimeter?
Nov 30, 2010 at 2:25 AM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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Yea we talked before. I don't have a multimeter. I can try to propriate one.
Nov 30, 2010 at 2:31 AM
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SATURNTECH9
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Let me know when you get a multimeter.
Dec 2, 2010 at 3:11 AM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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Ok. Got a multimeter. What am I doing?
Dec 3, 2010 at 7:13 PM
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SATURNTECH9
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Follow the trouble tree and let me know what you find.
Dec 5, 2010 at 10:40 PM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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I will need some assistance here as I've never used a Multimeter for automotive purposes before and I'm not sure where I'd be testing at (transaxle connector, etc).
Dec 5, 2010 at 10:48 PM
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SATURNTECH9
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You would start by putting the multimeter on low ohm's scale like 200 ohm's scale there is a plug on the transmission below the battery it's square.I has a bolt holding it down you will have to unscrew it and move the connector aside.You will see on the back of the connector letter's labeling the terminal's look at those letter's to see which terminal's you will be testing on the transmission for the first step of the trouble tree.You see how many ohm's are between terminal's G and F on the transmission connector not on the connector you unscrewed.
Dec 5, 2010 at 11:24 PM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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Beautiful. Thank you. I don't have any covering and it's foul weather right now. I'll get out there as soon as it clears up enough.
Dec 5, 2010 at 11:27 PM
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SATURNTECH9
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Alright let me know what you find.
Dec 6, 2010 at 12:06 AM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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I got out and started following your directions. Sadly, I didn't get a picture. I have this illistration I found.

If I understood your directions correctly, the wires/plug in the upper left of the diagram is the connector, right?

I pulled it out (via removing a bolt). There were no numbers/letters on the connector itself or where it was plugged into. It was located just below the battery, and rear of the batt by a few inches.
Dec 11, 2010 at 12:08 AM
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SATURNTECH9
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Yes that is the connector you want they are usually labeled on the backside with letter's.I posted the diagram for the line pressure actuator so you can use the wire color's to figure out which terminal's you need to test.
Dec 11, 2010 at 12:31 AM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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Oh, so if I'm understanding you, the letters are actually under the seat where the connecter plugs into? That would explain why I couldn't locate them. Thank you for the diagram. Next non-rainy day, I'll get out there and let you know. Thanks again.
Dec 11, 2010 at 12:36 AM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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Also, am I testing the connector itself? Or just where it plugs into?
Dec 11, 2010 at 12:39 AM
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SATURNTECH9
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Your testing the terminals on the transmission for the first step not the connector you removed.
Dec 11, 2010 at 12:45 AM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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Ok. Thank you for that.
Dec 11, 2010 at 12:54 AM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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I got 6.6 Ohm between G and F. The next instruction is to disconnect the PCM J3 and check the voltage at F. Where is PCM J3?
Dec 11, 2010 at 6:37 PM
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SATURNTECH9
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It's the green one.
Dec 13, 2010 at 4:33 PM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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When I look at the PCM I see three plugs. Each plug looks like 2 put together. Do I seperate the middle one (green)? Or disconnect it as a whole? I already tried disconnecting it as a whole and tested as directed. I read no current.
Dec 13, 2010 at 9:07 PM
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SATURNTECH9
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You did it right it say's to unplug it and look for power.Plug the connector back in and turn the key back on and see if it has power then?
Dec 13, 2010 at 10:27 PM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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I did that. I turned off the car, disconnected the jumper, turned the ignition forward, and tested for current. Nothing. I might have messed up somewhere. I can do it again.
Dec 13, 2010 at 10:43 PM
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SATURNTECH9
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So is that code active meaning it will reset as soon as you clear it?Because that trouble tree is only good if that is the case.Like it say's in the begining of the trouble tree clear the code and see if it reset's then follow the trouble tree.
Dec 14, 2010 at 7:08 PM
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WOLFETUNDRA
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I didn't check to see if the code was present after I reset. Now I get to do it again.
Dec 14, 2010 at 7:17 PM
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SATURNTECH9
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Yeah that's the first step you read on the trouble tree.
Dec 14, 2010 at 7:46 PM