Go here: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-low

neglected to say it was 1993 mx3...1.6L...sohc....manual...according to chiltons it says if you unplug IAC when warm rpm's should drop..instead .they go up about 600....did resistance check and its within spec and thoroughly cleaned...what do you think?

should IAC valve move either in or out for this model with key on?

The IAC should move in and out when the key it turned on and off.

Why don't you just open it up and clean it out with a bore brush and carb cleaner and see what happens-appreciate the B/U Joe-hope the holidays when well-TY

thank you ...done it a couple times.....took off IAC and turned key on it's gettin 12.5 V to it and it starts to spin rapidly and moves a little too.plus the RES is right on guessin it works ok....on to something else.

Did you try adjusting the idling speed?

thing is it idles pretty well ...rpm's drop a little when you turn on heater then a little more when you turn on lights then a little more when you hit brake pedal til it dies or almost dies. Is there another way to adjust idle than messing with TPS?...ALT is putting out 14.5V same as what batt reads.

Try doing this:

Connect Diagnostic Tester (49 B019 9A0) to diagnostic connector and select SELF-TEST mode, or connect jumper wire between diagnostic connector terminals TEN and GND. Connect tachometer to diagnostic connector terminal IG (-).
If idle speed is not within specification, rotate idle air adjusting screw on throttle body.

Adjust to 700rpm

code 03 is appearing.......dist no g1 or g2 signal...is there a simple way for a backyard mechanic to figure it out?

Refer to chart

thank you for diagrams......not quite sure about step 6 what is voltage supposed to be...with key on or off...dist connected or not...and step 5 how do you check for ground?...step 8 with dist disconnected but is key on or off?..thank you

When checking voltage, the ignition must be ON.

When checking for ground it means check for shorts. One end of ohmmeter to wire/terminals and the other to body.

Is your vehicle Federal or California Specifications?

its federal......just dont know when it says is voltage ok what is voltage supposed to be?

is there an easy way to check and see if internal voltage regulator is working correctly?

Sorry for the delay in replying. Was away for the past week.

Here are the pin voltage chart.

thanks for diagrams...did step 6 ...(tested ecu terminal voltage from dist.)...it was 5 volts with key on but stayed 5 volts at idle it didnt drop to 1.5V like it should......the 2E terminal was at 5V with key on and dropped to 2V at idle.like it should......there is continuity between dist. wire and ecu......step 7 tested at 5V and it says replace dist.however when performing step 8 there is no voltage and it says replace ecu...does step 7 superceed step 8 because it tested at 5V and it says replace dist....if it were you which one would you replace?

Any fault with the ECU takes precedence over others.
Anyway step 6 showed voltage, why does the voltage disappears when measured at ECU?

it asks for the dist. connector to be disconnected...im assuming thats why there is no voltage...also distributors are sold with or without modules what does that mean? and could it be just a bad module in dist. and i dont need to replace entire thing.?

If the module comes separately, you can just replace that because the problem is only within the module circuit. However you need to check/test the wiring circuit within the distributor as it could be bad wires as they become brittle over time and any movement of them can result in breakages/poor continuuity.

thanks for your help.....the wires all have good continuity......one last question......the diagram says at idle the G signal (2g on ecu) at idle should be 1.5V ...it measures at 5V both at distributor connector and ecu...what is that telling you?..again thank you

That should mean the distributor crank sensor is not providing the correct pulsing.

i put brand new dist. in took care of cel.......however still wants to die when accessories turned on...rpm's drop a little when you turn on lights...a little more when you turn on heater and usually dies when you hit brake pedal....tested all voltages to ecu, cleaned IAC and throttle body, new vacuum hoses, air intake boot no cracks, new fuel pump and filter...resistance checks on all sensors and controls are within spec. alt is good..could it be compression? any ideas

What is the idling speed?
Did you check the ignition timing?

idling speed is about 900....timing mark is about 2 inches behind where its supposed to be...im not a tooth off either...i have lined everything up several times to guarantee TDC and the timing mark still isnt even close...i have tried jumping the ten and ground and adjusting the air screw to 750 for the idle but its too low and dies every time...idling speed is a little high so it doesnt die as often...thanx again

What I meant is the ignition timing. It means the distributor position and you need a timing light to check that

i did use a timing light thats how i know it is way off...its not even close to the mark

Either the distributor is wrong or the timing belt is off its mark if the ignition timing is too advanced or retarded.

i really appreciate all your expert opinion on everything....... you have helped me narrow it down alot...I have used origional dist. used dist. and new dist and timing is in same place with all of them....i lined up marks on camshaft sprocket with marks on head.....crankshaft sprocket with mark.....rotor is pointing to no.1 tower ...and stick hanger through no1 spark plug hole and can feel top of piston up high so i know its at TDC...am i missing anythiing?....could engine be so worn that i should try manually on purpose moving it a tooth or two in either direction? checked compression and no.3 cylinder is pretty low..about 60........ again thanks for your help.

If distributor ia gear type, move it one notch and recheck the ignition timing.

At 60 psi, the cylinder is bad.