heater not working?

partially blocked heater core. This guide can help us tell for sure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Roy

Thanks Roy. I'll check it out tomorrow.

I have a 1991 ford ranger 2.3L 5 speed. The heater has not worked very well only blowing mildly warm air. I just replaced the hea gasket,water pump,thermostat,heaterhoses,and radiator hoses.Now that I have recently needed the defroster and I am getting no heat at all. I have checked the cable adjustment on the blend door and it's working. Today I removed the heater hoses at the core and blew into the core. On one side I can blow air through and when I blow into the other side there is resistance is this normal? I also tried hooking the hoses up to the opposite ports and still no heat. Any ideas ?

replace the heater core. it is the problem

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working


Roy

1990 ranger 2.9l, heater will not work, changed the heater core, thermostat, getting plenty of hot water to core, but its still not blowing hot air. What am i missing?

Hoses are brand new as well, i have already taken the dash apart and made sure the temperature control cam is in the correct position.

Check the heater control valve and the air blend door/actuator

i have read a couple of the previous questions about heaters in this model. I recently had the motor rebuilt and now, no heat, only cold air gets blown. i have checked everything i know. the radiator, water pump, hoses, and heater core. While the engine is running, the heater hose going to the heater core is hot and has pressure. But the hose coming from the core is cool. So does that mean the core is stopped up? Also, the coolant temp guage is not registering. Could all of this mean the water pump is not circulating properly? Any advise is appreciated.

Try flushing out the heater core, check the heater control valve and test the engine coolant temperature sensor-if there a problem with the water pump you'll be overheating

1983 ford ranger no heat?????heater core not blocked or leaking,new 195 degree thermostat,did find the heater control valve box??under the carb was blocked with a lot of gunk,cleaned it all out replaced a vacum port switch on the box,heater hoses now getting hot but still cool air no heat only thing i can think of trying is replacing the blend door actuator but cant find it took out the glove box and dont see it,do i need to take the dash out to replace it or check the blend door?

If both heater core hoses are getting hot, the blend door is the problem. However, if only one is getting hot, there is a blockage in the core. As far as the blend door, it is located next to the heater core. Not a fun job to get to.

i,ve cleaned out everything had a lot of stuff in the ducts like mice been there flushed out core heater hoses get hot now puts out a little warmer heat now more than it did i,ll try a new heater core later

When you flushed the heater core, if the water flowed freely, that isn't the problem. I would focus on blend door. Make sure it is operating fully in both directions. If a mouse or something got in there, it could be blocking it from fully opening. If both heater core hoses are hot, that is where the problem has to be coming from. Plus, if you don't have to, trust me when I say, don't replace the heater core. It isn't a fun job.

it flowed easy and not hard at all to take out on this truck just remove the cover dash not in the way of it....blend door opens and closes ok

Okay, if the heater hoses are hot, the blend door is working properly, and the core is clear... wow, now you have me stumped. The hoses indicate the coolant is heating the core, the core is clear allowing the coolant to flow and the blend door is opening properly. You should have perfect heat. The only thing I can think of now is the engine isn't getting hot enough, but I think you mentioned it was, correct? This is a basic system and you have done it all and all seems to be working as designed.

I have a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT and when I turn on my heater it smells like burnt hose. It also smokes up my cab when I turn it on. I do not have A/C. It didn't do this a week ago. When I have it on cold there is no smoke, only when I put it on warm or hot. I have a Chilton Manual for it, but what would be a cheap easy way for me to fix it? I am a female, but have no problem working on my truck and getting my hands dirty. It is also making a film on my windshield inside and leaking some dark fluid on my floorboard. Please help.

Thanks,
Annie

your heater core is leaking coolant. let me find out whether or not the dash has to be pulled to replace it and i'll get back to ya.

it,s a very weird truck i guess it just got too old to put out good heat,when i started out i took the heater hoses off and followed one back to the engine where it t,ed off into another hose running to a box under the carberator and that box-cover was full of old gunk cleaned all that out and it seems after that the engine runs a little better idles a little higher the engine runs at about 180 degrees by the guage i just give up on it i only drive it every once in awhile my main truck is a 98 gmc 1500

these instructions came from a ford website, i hope this helps. remember these instructions are for a ranger and aerostar of the same year you have. good luck




Section 12-03D: Air Conditioning and Heating System, Auxiliary

1997 Aerostar/Ranger Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000
Heater and/or Evaporator Core
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Heater Hose Disconnect Tool T85T-18539-AH



Auxiliary Heater Core and Seal Assembly

Removal

1.

Remove the first seat behind the driver, if so equipped.

2.

Remove the auxiliary heater and/or air conditioner service cover attaching screws, and remove the cover.

3.

Drain the cooling system following the recommended procedures. Observe all safety precautions. Refer to Section 03-03.

4.

Remove rear seat airflow duct (18C420) by removing one or two attaching screws, as required, and rotating the rear seat airflow duct gently downward.

5.

Remove remaining sixteen screws from cover and remove cover from case.

6.

Disconnect the heater water hoses (18472) at the quick disconnection under the vehicle and plug the disconnects with suitable 5/8-inch plugs.

7.

Slide the heater core (18476) and heater core case seal (18658) out of the housing slot and pull it up through the floor.

8.

Remove the heater water hoses from the heater core (two clamps).


Auxiliary Heater Core Installation





Item Part Number Description
1 19860 A/C Evaporator Core
2 18D283 Auxiliary Heater and A/C Assembly
3 97242-S8 Clamps (2 Req'd)
4 18B425 Heater Core Tube Insulators
5 18658 Heater Core Case Seal
6 18476 Heater Core

Installation

1.

Install the heater water hoses on the heater core (two clamps).

2.

Slide the heater core and heater core case seal into the housing slot, guiding the heater water hoses through the floor.

3.

Connect the quick disconnects under the vehicle.

4.

Fill the cooling system to specification and check for coolant leaks. Refer to Section 03-03.

5.

Install the auxiliary heater and/or air conditioner cover.

6.

Install the rear seat airflow duct.

7.

Install the service cover and passenger seat as outlined.



Auxiliary A/C Evaporator Core

Removal

1.

Remove the first seat behind driver, if so equipped. Refer to Section 01-10.

2.

Remove the auxiliary heater and/or air conditioner service cover attaching screws and remove the cover.

3.

Discharge the refrigerant system following the recommended service procedures. Observe all safety precautions. Refer to Section 12-00.

4.

Remove rear seat airflow duct.

5.

Disconnect the evaporator to compressor suction line (19867) from the A/C evaporator core (19860) and plug.

6.

Using 5/16-inch nut runner, disconnect solenoid bracket from case.

7.

Using backup wrenches, disconnect the evaporator core from the solenoid valve.

8.

Remove auxiliary case cover screws and cover.

9.

Remove connector from heater blower motor switch resistor (18591).

10.

Remove A/C evaporator core.

Installation

1.

Install A/C evaporator core seal (19A672) to tube end of A/C evaporator core.

2.

Install new O-ring lubricated with clean refrigerant oil to inlet line and to condenser to evaporator tube O-ring fitting.

3.

Carefully place A/C evaporator core in case and align inlet tube with solenoid. Tighten connections to 21-27 Nm (15-20 lb-ft) using backup wrench to prevent damage.

4.

Install solenoid bracket to case assembly.

5.

Install new O-ring on underbody suction line and lubricate with clean refrigerant oil. Connect to A/C evaporator core making sure to hear the click of the spring trapping the line.

6.

Wrap evaporator to compressor suction line with insulating tape.

7.

Reconnect connector to heater blower motor switch resistor.

8.

Install case cover.

9.

Install rear seat airflow duct.

10.

Leak test, evacuate, and charge the refrigerant system following the recommended service procedures. Observe all safety precautions. Refer to Section 12-00.

11.

Install service cover and passenger seat as outlined.


Evaporator Core Installation

The problem I am having is that there is only cold air coming out when I turn on the heater. The only thing I have tried is replacing the thermostat. There are no funny smells, or leaks that can be seen. This happened slowly, the air gradually got cooler over maybe a month or so (could be longer I wasnt really using the heat much since last winter). The air still blows fine it's just not warm. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Lance

I know you said there were no leaks BUT is the level of the coolant staying constant and full?

If so, and since you have replaced the thermostat, go to the thermostat housing and once the vehicle is good and warm, check the heater hose that comes off the housing. It should be hot or very warm. Follow the hose to a valve or a plenum damper than is supposed to open and allow heat in to the interior of the vehicle. That valve or damper is not opening correctly.

Hello, I am not new to car repair but this one has got me stumped!

93 Ford Ranger, 2.3L 2wd, Factory AC, 136,000 miles (one owner) (The wheels have fallen off once)

This winter, the heater decided it was not going to work, so I decided to look into it.

Flushed and cleaned the cooling system, yeah it was dirty. Tookout the heater core (suprised it was all aluminum) and flushed it; I get a good flow through it off the garden hose.
Flushed lines and the radiator (darn drain is plugged up, oh well)
Replaced the T-stat (195 Degree, need that down here in the south, and that was a pain.... I had to take the Alternator mount off to get to the upper left bolt on the t-stat housing, turned a 15min job into a two hour job), the Damper door works, the fan works all speeds, (AC still cold after 13 years and nothing has ever had to be done to it - knock on wood)
After letting the truck run for about 10 mins, the system does pressure up, and the radiator hoses get real hot. The temp gauge comes up to the bottom of the normal scale, (temp sensor is about 6 inches away from the engine in the heater feed hose), the Heater feed hose does get hot, but it takes a while for it to get hot all the way to the fire wall.
The very top of the heater core gets warm, but never hot, and the return hose does not get hot at all.

Again, remember, I have already flushed the heater core, I even filled it with water to make sure I did not have an air lock. The system is topped of with AF.

So, I am at a loss. All apears to be working well, but it isn't.
Could the wate pump be worn out? (that's a paiin to change)

Help... Anybody else experince a problem like this?

It's possible the blades on your pump could be worn down to zilch, there have been some issues with this on various cars, in fact my next door neighbor has a Jeep Cherokee, fan blades were completely gone, amazing..

[quote:c7737fbf9c="dpfreak"]Hello, I am not new to car repair but this one has got me stumped!

93 Ford Ranger, 2.3L 2wd, Factory AC, 136,000 miles (one owner) (The wheels have fallen off once)

This winter, the heater decided it was not going to work, so I decided to look into it.

Flushed and cleaned the cooling system, yeah it was dirty. Tookout the heater core (suprised it was all aluminum) and flushed it; I get a good flow through it off the garden hose.
Flushed lines and the radiator (darn drain is plugged up, oh well)
Replaced the T-stat (195 Degree, need that down here in the south, and that was a pain.... I had to take the Alternator mount off to get to the upper left bolt on the t-stat housing, turned a 15min job into a two hour job), the Damper door works, the fan works all speeds, (AC still cold after 13 years and nothing has ever had to be done to it - knock on wood)
After letting the truck run for about 10 mins, the system does pressure up, and the radiator hoses get real hot. The temp gauge comes up to the bottom of the normal scale, (temp sensor is about 6 inches away from the engine in the heater feed hose), the Heater feed hose does get hot, but it takes a while for it to get hot all the way to the fire wall.
The very top of the heater core gets warm, but never hot, and the return hose does not get hot at all.

Again, remember, I have already flushed the heater core, I even filled it with water to make sure I did not have an air lock. The system is topped of with AF.

So, I am at a loss. All apears to be working well, but it isn't.
Could the wate pump be worn out? (that's a paiin to change)

Help... Anybody else experince a problem like this?[/quote:c7737fbf9c]


the Heater feed hose does get hot, but it takes a while for it to get hot all the way to the fire wall.
The very top of the heater core gets warm, but never hot, and the return hose does not get hot at all.

The above is telling you something-for me am already confused but disconnect the upper hose and check for adequate flow-don't like it-replace it. Hmm!! double check the Rad for a partial clog

BTW don't always trust a new Stat-BTDT.

HTH-Good Luck!

The impeller on the water pump was gone, non-existant. It got warmer outside and I noticed that after while the power dropped out and nothing I could do would stop the valves from rattling.
Then I stopped the truck and could hear the water boiling in the block, not good.

I took the pump off and was shocked, there was no impeller, just a little stub.

So it is fixed now, heats great too.

Thanks

:? i have a 1994 ford ranger 3.0 i cant seem to get the heater to blow cold. Ive reaplced the thermostat, still not heat. I felt both the in and out water lines going through the dash both seem to b the same temp not HOT but warm. So ive ruled out a block in the heater core. I am tyrying to figure out if/how i can check the vacuum controls in the dash? Any help would b a great help thanx.

p.s. Or anyother suggestions to what might b causing NO heaty to come outta the vents. thanx

What's the temp gauge reading. If it's low the thermostat could be stuck open and the engine never reaches operating temp. The coolant should be over 195 degrees so warm heater hoses isn't right. Some of the fords have a heater core bypass that is vacuum operated. Follow the heater hoses from the core lines back and you'll see a black valve 4 hose connections and 1 vacuum line. make sure that valve moves when switching from cold to hot at temp controls. It should default to hot if there is no vacuum present but who knows. Maybe someone wired it in the cold position instead of replacing it. Good luck.