Will not start I think it is the security system

Well you might just need to run the relearn procedure. I'm attaching some images that I pulled off of the web. They are a set of instructions for relearn procedures for all of GM's theft deterrent systems. Run the one for whichever Passkey iteration that you have (probably the original Passkey) and we'll go from there.

Thanks for using 2CarPros. Good luck and let us know anyways.

Harry

I tried that one already and either I didn’t do it right or it didn’t work. I added a video to show what the problem is.

I put key in ignition and turn it to on all the electrical works, but when I turn it to start the car everything cuts out. I will attach a video showing the issue.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

I believe this is an easy fix. What you described sounds like a weak connection at the battery. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight.

Take a look at this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Let me know if that helps.

Joe

I’ve asked twice now and all methods given didn’t fix anything. I am still having the same issue, where when the keys on run all the electrical works but when I go to start the engine it shuts down. I’ll post a video attachment so you can see the issue. please help me I need my car running.

If everything goes dead, similar to having no battery in the vehicle, follow the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box and be sure that connection is clean and tight. Follow the smaller negative battery wire to the body and be sure that one is tight and not rusty.

Rather than reposting the same problem multiple times, please stick to this one until we get this solved. I can get other experts involved if we need bigger brains.

It doesn't go completely dead the dash lights stay on but every other electronic goes dead when I go to crank it.

The stuff going dead might be a misleading clue. Things like the heater fan, radio, and wipers get turned off in the "crank" position by the ignition switch. That switch might be out of adjustment just enough that the rod isn't moving it quite far enough to hit the last contact for the starter system. To check for that, look for 12 volts on the yellow wire at the ignition switch when it's in the "crank" position.

If you do find 12 volts on the yellow wire, feel if the starter relay is clicking when a helper turns the ignition switch. If it is, the neutral safety switch is the best suspect. This is the first time I've seen a starter circuit with a relay and the neutral safety switch is in the relatively high-current starter solenoid circuit. There can be 10 - 15 amps flowing through the ignition switch and neutral safety switch. That is asking a real lot of the neutral safety switch, and it makes a relay pointless. Try cranking the engine after moving the shift lever around the "neutral" position.

If you have 12 volts on the yellow wire and the relay does not click, this is an anti-theft system problem as others have suggested.

I ran a scan and the only code that popped up is 12 and as far as I know that means the system diagnostic is running fine, but when the scanner is in the engine cooling fan in the front of the car turns on. is that normal for a 1993 Buick? The car started in park five or six times before it started doing this.

I thought we were working on a cranking problem. We need to know where a voltage is missing to figure out which circuit we need to diagnose.

Things can happen when a scanner is connected. Fords of that era are much worse. All kinds of things happen on those as the scanner puts the computer through a series of initial tests to see how it responds.

I’m trying to find out what the problem is I mean I read that a poor battery connection could cause it to not start and my Buick has 2 positive cables that I have to put a long bolt through with a spacer but the bolt barely fits in the battery after I do that so could it be just a weak connection? Cus all the electrical (fan,radio,seats,windows,lights, all work until I turn it to crank and it all shuts off till I put it to run and while I crank there’s a noise in the top of the motor

Yes, it could definitely be a weak connection there. Stop at the local parts shop and grab a new terminal. It's probably $3. Pop it in and see what happens. Also, have you tried wiggling the shifter back and forth while holding the key in the "crank" position? What about cranking it with the shifter in neutral?

And yes, it's normal for the fan to run while you have the car in diagnostic mode.

I think I found the problem if I have someone cranking the car and I tap the starter with a hammer a bunch of times it’ll fire up so I think my starter is going bad.

Yep that will do it. here is a guide to help walk you through the steps for changing the starter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Please let us know what happens.