transmission problems

Here are the diagnostic procedures.

1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature. Connect voltmeter between terminals TT and E1 of check connector. Check connector is located in engine compartment, near left strut tower. See Fig. 8 .

2. Turn ignition on. Note if voltage changes with throttle opening. If voltage changes with throttle opening, proceed to step 6 . If voltage does not change with throttle opening, proceed to next step.

3. Obtain access to ECT ECU, located near glove box. See Fig. 1 . Connect voltmeter between terminals BK and GND on ECT ECU with connector installed on ECT ECU. See Fig. 12 .

4. No voltage should exist with brake pedal released. Approximately 10-14 volts should exist with brake pedal depressed. If voltage is not as specified, check for defective brakelight switch or wiring circuit.

5. If voltage is as specified, check for defective ECT ECU power source or ground connections. Check for short or open circuit in wire to TT terminal of check connector. Check for defective throttle position sensor or wiring.

6. Perform MANUAL SHIFTING TEST. If transmission does not perform correctly, repair transmission. If transmission operates correctly, road test vehicle and ensure voltage at terminal TT increases from zero to 7 volts.

7. If no voltage exists, go to step 9 . If voltage increases from zero to 7 volts, transmission or solenoid is faulty. If voltage increases from zero to 5 volts, perform NO UPSHIFT TO OVERDRIVE under SYMPTOM TROUBLE SHOOTING.

8. If voltage increases from zero to 3 volts, check for battery voltage between terminals 2 and GND on ECT ECU with connector installed on ECT ECU and shift lever in "D" position. See Fig. 12 . If battery voltage exists, check for defective neutral start switch or wiring circuit. If battery voltage does not exist, replace ECT ECU.

9. Check for battery voltage between terminals "L" and GND on ECT ECU with connector installed on ECT ECU and shift lever in "D" position. See Fig. 12 . If battery voltage exists, check for defective neutral start switch or wiring circuit. If battery voltage does not exist, replace ECT ECU.

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

The transmission on my camry stopped working suddenly. I know its not usually suddenly but we have only had the car for 2 months bought used. The transmission break down is not really unexpected but the nature is. First after receiving the car we slowly checked fluids through out the month and the last thing we checked was transmission. There is more to this delay but I will keep that short. We drove the car one day and it began chugging and slipping. My son was able to nurse the car home after about a mile or 2. This began the diagnostics. The trans, when I drove it, would not go in any of the drives and move forward. Reverse works and works every time. The trans was down 2 quarts we loaded the oil and proceeded to test but to no avail, still same symptoms. Oil color, though not terribly sure looked somewhat OK and obviously changed caracteristics after i put the oil in. We cycled the gears to see if maybe we could get air bubbles or fill in some potential air gaps or circulation issues with the trans. Trans was warm during this process but still No avail. I was geeting a little irritated so I raced the engine and noticed that at about 3500 to 4500 RPM i could intermitantly engage the trans. I eventually got the car to go around the block in forward but with a racing engine. It would some times kick in and out of gear with a hard bam though! The RPMs when moving to engage the trans were reduced on occasion to about 3000 RPM to engage. At about 40mph and above it appeared that the trans seemed to work in normal opperation. Business as usual...kind of! Not 100% sure of down shifting when I started to slow down below the noted speed. I eventually nursed the camry to the AutoZone for diagnostic codes and sure enough they did not have older meters to read the car. I eventually was able to check the front solenoid and believe it to work..just by Ohm test...about 24 ohms. I could not reach any of the other 2 solenoids to measure I could barely reach the solenoid on the top rear of the trans but could not pop the connector with out breaking it...yet! So the issue is do I have a possible fluid problem like lack of fluid in the torq convertor from the fluid level getting to low? Or could it be a Solenoid not shifting any gears? Why only reverse? Are there other simple tests I can conduct. Could it be the computer? I do fear ruining the clutch rings by doing what i did so I want to minimize tha excursion. It seems to be much like an on and of switch to be fluid...like electrical but My next thought was to take to a trans shop but for them to tell me the problem only and I would repair myself, providing somewhat easy. I have replaced the trans in my S-10 and know that its a bitch and want to avoid at all cost. If it turns out to be the clutch pads, rings, whatever they are called in an automatic I will have a pro do it..I think. I just want to be informed before I go to trans shop to not be ripped off just because the easy thing for the shop to do is replace the whole thing and I foot that bill.

Hi fekochis,

Thank you for the donation.

Seems the trans has falied and requires rebuilding or replacement.

what you are describing seems to indicate you have lost 1st speed.

To test if it is a fault with the mechanical or control faults, unplug the wireharness connector for the solenoids at transmission end.

Try driving by manually shifting into each shift position, ie L, 2, D. If any of the positions do not work, it is a fault with the trans and not controls.

During cold weather automatic transmission will not shift into high gear until car has been running for 15-20 minutes, after that it operates normally.

First of all, make sure that your fluid is at the appropriate level. Two things that you may want to check are the speed sensors and the transmission lock-up solenoid.

Yesterday it had a first slight slip. Today lost everything? No movement in any gear. I checked the transmission oil its clean and doesn't smell burnt. Seems over full if anything.

I would think its the sensor that makes the gears shift.

Thanks, first I found that the trans axile was bad, replaced that now the car would drive about one block then stop. After further investigation we found that maybe the transmition filter was clogged? So took the pan off and cleaned it ( it didn't look dirty). But we put it back together and it works perfect!

My 1998 Camry V-6 has 128,000 miles and runs excellent. There is one issue. When slowing to a stop, the last downshift sometimes comes with a slight bang. Is it possible for this to be corrected with a adjustment of the computer. A reprogram? I've regularly had the transmission fluid flushed by Toyota.

Check to see if there are any soft codes stores by the computer. There could be an issue with one of the shift or transmission control solenoids.

Thanks for the reply rivermikerat. Are there inexpensive code readers I could pick up at the loacal auto store?

Just to add to this one this is the cheapest code reader i have ever seen.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-OBD-II-Scan/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2ZDTLLHF9PKAH&colid=18P9GG85XVI37

Damn. That looks like a cool scantool, saturntech. I want one now. lol.

ferrari, the one saturntech mentioned is one I would recommend. You can also check your yellow pages for shops that will scan for all codes free.

Its just a basic code reader but for the price its great.Autozone wants like 80 for a basic actron code reader.

I read the specs and features. For a basic scanner, it reads pretty nice.

I have a '97 Camry. Every time I shift from P to R, or R to D or D to R, it jerks and kinda jumps ... there's also a slight thud, like its knocking into something.

But once it starts moving, it is smooth.

My mechanic thought it was the engine mount rubbers, but their replacement didn't change a thing. Added new transmission fluid, no change still.

Any assistance/suggestions will be much appreciated.

I have the same problem, my mechanic told me that one of my cars moter mounts was broken and one was warped. I drive a 92 Toyota Paseo. Hope that helps some.

Would I have gotten a check engine light if a code was stored

[quote:0c5481ecd2="VolcomSoldier06"]I have the same problem, my mechanic told me that one of my cars moter mounts was broken and one was warped. I drive a 92 Toyota Paseo. Hope that helps some.[/quote:0c5481ecd2]

So, VolcomSoldier06 ... did chnaging the motor mounts solve the problem?

A hard code, yes. But not a soft code. Transmission faults normally set soft codes, unless they're really serious.

Doesn't the line pressure solenoid sound like it would likely be more of the problem?

Like I said, it could be any one of the solenoids or valves in the transmission.

Without a codes scan first then a electrical ohmns test and possible a transmission pressure test then your just plain guessing.

Saturntech9: Is the code scanner mentioned before, the correct scanner to find these so called soft codes? Or would I need a better one? I am not getting a check engine light.

It would read the P codes which are powertrain codes and the U codes which are communication codes.So it would read the codes you need.Also to properly diagnose transmission issues you need a transmission pressure tester to read the transmission pressures and a multimeter to check wiring solenoids etc.

Thanks for all your replies

Your welcome.

You are = You're. Grammar police just gave you a ticket, saturntech.

I have a 1994 toyota Camry with Auto Transmission.

Initialy when start to drive will not shift from 1st to 2nd. But when letting off the accelerator it will shift to 2nd . As the car gains momentum it will shift into higher gears.

This Camry has also very high vibrations at idel speed, which I am not sure if it has anything to do with the current problem. Would anyone be able to give some input on this??

With Regards

Check the tranny fluid and condition if okay test the TPS and VSS sensor.

If we had to use grammar to fix cars i would be in trouble but since we dont iam burning your ticket lol.

[quote:c4d0b6bc6f="rasmataz"]Check the tranny fluid and condition if okay test the TPS and VSS sensor.[/quote:c4d0b6bc6f]

Thank you very much for the response. What does "VSS" stand for and please let me know where it is located at.

Best Regards
Charles

lol

The VSS ( vehcile speed sensor )

I have a 1995 camry,200,000 miles.All at once it started running weak and trans wont shift up unless i let up on the gas peddle and allow it to shift before i press the peddle again.It almost acts as if some thing is holding the motor back.All of the gears work,brakes are not dragging and it down shifts fine.Motor starts and idles as if nothing is wrong,no exhaust smoke,tranny fluid looks good,not losing any fluids.I am wondering if the 2 problems are related.

Run an engine and a trans scan, this would be a good place to start.

I'm looking at purchasing a 1989 camry, it has 164,000 miles and has been owned by a mechanic the last ten years. Everything seems great about the car except that it doesn't shift into second gear when going up hill. It will shift up normally on the flat or downhill but skips second and goes to drive when accelerating uphill. The owner says that his wife just manuallly puts it into second and its fine but even without a tach I could tell this does not work either mostly because of the severe lack of power. I don't want to purchase if this could be something major. It is also the 2.0L four cylinder, which means hills can become very hard to overcome with no second gear.

[quote:454995835b="jetm920"]I'm looking at purchasing a 1989 camry, it has 164,000 miles and has been owned by a mechanic the last ten years. Everything seems great about the car except that it doesn't shift into second gear when going up hill. It will shift up normally on the flat or downhill but skips second and goes to drive when accelerating uphill. The owner says that his wife just manuallly puts it into second and its fine but even without a tach I could tell this does not work either mostly because of the severe lack of power. I don't want to purchase if this could be something major. It is also the 2.0L four cylinder, which means hills can become very hard to overcome with no second gear.[/quote:454995835b]

The tranny never got repaired?
if its the "original transmission" .. 164k miles..
Think that you have not many miles ahead before a tranny repair.

Why he`s selling it?

1992 Toyota Camry, A540E automatic transmission. I have had my transmission rebuilt and I believe they didn't put in the right transmission. I am an auto mechanic and need to know how I can identify if the A540E, which should be original equipment in the car, is there after it was rebuilt. I took the car back because it is not shifting from first to second gear after being driven for about an hour. I just took it to another branch of the same transmission repair facility and they said it was fine. They adjusted the kick down cable (HA HA) but it didn't make a difference.

Get your VIN number (Vehicle Identification Number) located by the windshield of your car or on your registration certificate and then call a Toyota dealer and he/she can tell you which model of transmission that should be in your car. Then purchase a transmission pan gasket for the model they tell you should be in your car and see if it matches the transmission pan in your car. If it does, you have the right transmission.