1991 Pontiac Sunbird stalling

Clean the throttle body and the iac. Check the maf and map, where applicable. Check for applicable trouble codes. Your obd 1, you should be able to check codes yourself, if your check engine lite operates. To check codes, place jumper wire between terminals A & B at the datalink connector, should be along lower edge of dash between steering column and driver door. After the jumper is in place, turn the key just till the dash lites come on, no further, no crank. The mil on the dash starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit codes.

How long since a tune-up? You might also check for vacuum leaks.

hi there i replaced my throttle postion sensor and the iac sensor my car is still running like crap, rpm up and down, rpm goes to 3000 when i start the car, wants to stall when stopped, i am told by auto value pars store that my car does not have an mas air flow sensor

What about trouble codes? Anything?

i have obd1 how do i get codes for it

in order for me to drive my car i have to ride the pedal and the brake when i stop or it will stall

To check codes, the datalink connector should be located under lower edge of dash, between the steering column and driver door.

With the key on, just till the dash lites come on, no crank. Use a jumper wire between the A & B terminals at the datalink connector. Then the service engine soon lite on the dash starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit codes.

Note the picture for location of A & B terminals at the datalink connector.

codes are as follow, 12, 22, 33, 35, 45,

Because you already replaced some sensors, I'd erase the codes and see what comes back.

The code 12 usually just means your in diagnostic mode.
Code 22 is tps voltage low.
code 33 is map sensor voltage high.
code 35 is for the iac.
code 45 is the system is running rich.

so how do i fix code 22 tps voltage low, and code 33 voltage to high, and where on my engine is the map sensor

As far as the code 22, check the wiring connector at the tps sensor. Check the wiring circuits. Make sure the battery has a full charge. With key on, you don't have to start it, check for 5 volts ref at the gray wire. The black wire is ground. Also, check the signal wire/dark blue, use a digital multimeter. Move the throttle linkage up and down by hand, watch the voltage movement, it should move up and down smoothly.

The codes don't tell you what to replace, just that the computer thinks there is a problem on that circuit.

Because some sensors share ref voltage and ground, you have to be aware one sensor might cause an issue with another?

To troubleshoot the code 33 there can't be a code 22. The map sensor shows to be on the firewall close to blower motor.

my codes are gone now, but i have to push gas peddle to the floor to start car, then once foot is off the peddle it dies

Usually when you put the pedal on the floor, it is, "clear flood mode", too much gas. You need to check correct fuel pressure, use a fuel pressure gage. Some of the national brand auto stores used to loan out a fuel pressure. You may have to put up a deposit but, you get it back when you take the gage back.

Once you build pressure, turn the key off. See if the pressure holds for a bit? If the pressure drops like a rock, you have a leak somewhere.

It wouldn't hurt to give it a tune-up. Anymore, 02 sensors are part of a tune-up.

After you erase codes, did you drive it for a bit to see if any codes come back?

how many o2 sensors should i have

i have a code 15 now

The code 15 is for coolant temp sensor, voltage high. A faulty coolant temp sensor can cause it to flood.

where is this temp sensor located

this temp sensor is it power supply, or air supply

The coolant temp sensor should be in the thermostat housing or close to it. The wire colors are yellow and black. The coolant temp sensor lets the computer know the engine temp, and the computer will add fuel or take away fuel by controlling the injector pulse.

this is the only code i have now if i replace this sensor sold this fix my car

It is a possible fix.

engine off,With the connector loose from the coolant temp sensor, you can use a jumper wire between the two terminals, that tells the computer that the engine is hot. drive the vehicle, with it fully warm, if it runs ok, then, I think it is the coolant temp sensor.

I can't guarantee anything, because, I can't see anything from here.

only problem is my car wont stay running to drive it

the wires are showing on my temp sensor hook up

Nice picture, yeah, I'd replace the wiring connector. I still can't rule out the coolant temp sensor?

I've been told before not to post links on my posts. Rock auto .com has wiring connector for this, you will have to splice the wires. The connector already has the wires embedded, you have to splice wires to existing wires, I believe, 13 or 14 dollars.

I don't know if your local autostore would have that connector or not?

if replacing the pigtail and that still don't work, any other suggestions, what is the sensor called in my air filter housing

i had replaced the temp sensor before i noticed the wires the way they are, i am gonna put an new end on and see what happens, hopefully it works

Without putting a scanner on it, I got nothing else. Even at key on engine off, you can get some info. It will tell you engine temp. With a cold engine, the engine temp and outside temp should be close to the same. If it is way different you have a problem. Whether the problem is the computer--wiring or what?

so i replaced the wire connector and drove the car down the street and back, it stalled like 3 times, and it surges alot, got the code 15 again.

Don't know, got nothing else at the moment.

i noticed as i was finishing up that with the key on fuel was running out of the intake, could this be part of my problem

You could use a fuel pressure gage to check for correct pressure and pressure leak. You cycle the key to build fuel pressure, turn key off, see if pressure holds for a bit. If the pressure drops like a rock, you have a leak.

I still can't rule out the coolant temp sensor? Did you say the sensor was knew?

yes the temp sensor is new, and i fixed the broken wire

I'd check for a fuel pressure leak.

As far as the coolant temp sensor, there could be other issues besides the sensor itself, but, I'd check for the correct fuel pressure and pressure leak, first.

i used a pressure tester on the fuel rail, when cycling the key i get 40psi but drops right away with the key on, when key is off i lose all pressure.

If you pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator, any gas in the line, if so the pressure regulator is faulty.

After you build pressure, just key on, block off the return and pressure lines, if pressure still drops like rock, check the fuel injectors.

I just wanted to add, after you fix it, smell of the oil on the crankcase dipstick. If it smells like gas, change the oil and filter as many times as necessary to get rid of the gas smell.

so i do have fuel in the vac line will this make me have to push peddle to the floor in order to get the car to start
i am going to do another test on it tomorrow with the fuel pressure tester to make sure

I'd replace the fuel pressure regular. See how it goes from there.

If engine is flooded it will make for hard start.

Plugged off vac line then did fuel pressure test, after cycling the key to get pressure I then turned key off it held its pressure

Did you change the pressure regulator? If so, maybe that fixed it?