Man, this question is like the plague. Its everywhere, with no signs of retreat. I hope this helps. I've got the same car, 177k on it, and when I bought it it had the same problem.......I've literally dumped close to $8,500.00 all of which began with the BRAKES. Yesterday at noon I basically had a brand new car that ran like heck. Frustrated, stomping on the brake pedal, I heard a new noise, a "pop".??? Now what the heck, I thought, as my idle leveled out at 550..a few moments later my#3 and#6 cylinders slowly came to life. Within 5 minutes the only indication of a running car was the tachometer. opening the hood revealed an oily mess of smoking brake fluid. Apparently the jackass who did the brakes compressed the last caliper and failed to siphon the excess fluid. This minor oversight completely jacked my vaccume system. Affecting everything from the trunk latch to the timing (not literally). This morning I turned the key (yes its new also) and after a minor mixture adjustment gleefully smashed the gas and stuffed 315 horses into the almost new Dunlops for about a block and a half. This ticket pales in comparison to what my brakes cost, and I saved money doing them myself!

Oh, as for the battery, in the trunk under the latch, facing forward (there may be a plate or cover over it) there is a yellow lever that dictates we whether or not the trunk light comes on when the latch is released. Its for oversized cargo, flip it to the drivers side, correction, left side if looking forward. The factory grease gets hard and eventually it sticks only to come on when the ignition is on. please don't ask how much that little episode was worth.