car cranks but won't start

It sounds like the fuel pump relay is not working. Turn the key on without cranking the engine over can you hear it in the tank? if not do the relay. Here are two guides to help you get started

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

I checked the entire fuel system all appears good. Disconnected the return at the tank cycled and got a return. Coil, plugs, wires,and according to your post the icm and the pip sensor and the eec relay. Exhaust pressure is strong enough I can't hold my hands over the tailpipes when cranking over. Ignition is firing to every plug.

Will it start with starting fluid?

I found out the timing chain let go because there is no compression. The guides helped me find it. Time for a rebuilt engine.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

My car will not start, it turns over but will not get spark, I checked and it is getting no spark to the plugs, the cellenoid is good and the little box that go's to the distributor is good, What else could it be ?

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Engine Mechanical problem
1990 Ford Mustang V8 Two Wheel Drive Manual
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I had to take my car off the road for general maintenance mainly neew starter, spark plugs, wires distributor cap and rotor. Now keep in mind put gas in before hand now it will not start it will crank over but thats it. Found out i had to get a new ignition coil put that in but still will not start. What could be wrong so i dont have to go deeper in my pocket...

Before we go deeper into the problem, was it runnung BEFORE the tune up?

Yes it was and running fine....

Start with the basics, and work your way up, Last tune up was? Wires plugs ALL filters? If all that is ok, check for a stuck EGR, then test fuel pump pressure, If it won't restart, determine what's missing, the engine needs three things to run, Spark at all plugs, gas to all cylinders, and compression in all cylinders, tho an engine may run lacking one in one cylinder, it won't run very well!

i am getting fuel have spark just did the tune up when this all happened what else can i do?

try spraying just a touch of starting fluid in the air intake to see if it will run for a second. If it does it could be either a weak fuel pump, or the ignition switch isnt activating the injectors.

replaced:
fuel pump
starter
fuel pressure reg.
ingition module
battery



Will not start up.

[quote:3ee3616e16="haislerman"]Engine Mechanical problem
1990 Ford Mustang 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 138000 miles

replaced:
fuel pump
starter
fuel pressure reg.
ingition module
battery



IT WON'T START PLEASE HELP[/quote:3ee3616e16]

Hello,

If the vehicle will turn over and just won't start, have you check the Cap, Rotor, Plug, and Coil.


.

The mustang lx 1990's I have no idea what else the problem can be. Can you help? Iv set th ignition timer and the car wont start. The spark plug is getting compression and i have set t on dead center. What could be the problem? The engine that's in the car is a v-8 not a cylinder!

If the ignition timing is set correctly and still no start-check for fuel and spark-refer to this link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

I just put my car back together after I took apart the intake, valve covers, distributor, and disconnected all the spark plug wires.. now it will crank slowly and nothing really happens except it backfired a few times and that was it. Can't seem to figure this out, any help would be greatly appreciated

check your dist timing not your valve timing. it backfired so its probably out of time. see pic there are two on e for carb and other for fi

Engine Performance problem
1990 Ford Mustang V8 Two Wheel Drive Manual
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I have spark form the coil to the distributer and then no spark to any of the wires. I have now replaced the TFI mudole the starter syendoil and the cap and rotor i did them twice to make sure i didnt get bad ones. I am totally stumped and have no idea.

have u tried changing the ignition control module on side of distributer?if thats good try changing the map sensor on fire wall.im sure you know what im saying.

i changed the tfi that is wat is on the side of the distbuor we are going to try the whole distbuor i never thought of the map sensor we will have to try that next

Try the pick up coil inside the distributor.

90' Mustang GT. Car will not start. Turn key on @ nothing works. No noise of fuel pump turning on, no power to starter solonide, Changed TFM on distributor. Nothing seems to make the car come alive. Wasn't able to locate a ignition ground switch.
Any suggestions ???

So you're saying everything is dead, just the same as if there was no battery in the car? If that's correct, start by checking the two large copper nuts on the starter relay / solenoid on the inner fender. Ford likes to use one of them as a common tie point for all of the other electrical circuits.

If those nuts are tight, use a test light or digital voltmeter to follow the battery cables to see where voltage is lost. That will be the point to look for a bad connection.

I purchased this car 3 months ago and have been driving it as a daily car since. One day I was running errands, after leaving a store I got in the car and it would not start. I sat there looking over the engine and could not find anything obvious. After a few cranks I got it started by pumping the gas, even though the car is a EFI. The car got me home but didn't have power above 3000 RPM's as a matter of fact it was like the engine hit a rev limiter. I replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor that day. I also since replace the mass air meter, MAP sensor and the computer. I'm getting spark to the plugs. It takes a while to start but after 3 minutes of warm up it will idle without and help from the gas pedal. After 5 minutes it will rev all the way to 6000 without hesitation, but as soon as I go for a drive it acts like its misfiring, and has a hard time to go above 3000 RPMs. The car is completely stock and is an automatic. Do you have any ideas?

Have your codes checked....'round here "autozone" is capable of scanning obd i.....write down the exact codes (not just their "interpretations"

Sorta sounds like a fuel issue......check your fuel pressure too

Whenever a "new arrival" comes to my house, or "the family"-----i do a full 100% tune-up, and replace all fluids....all!

I like to start out fresh/ know what i'm up against/ i usually run across other stuff that needs attention during the process.........in case you ain't noticed...people will lie to ya!

These are very good guides.....i generally perform "overkill"

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-taurus-tune-up

I also do this.......as a pre--purchase test.....sometimes it makes 'em mad, it also gives me some leverage on price.............."up front" before i do it, i tell 'em " a steady needle at 20hg" is what i wanna see!.......if it's steady and low, i sorta feel like i can tune it in better (but they don't know that), i might offer lower----if they don't believe me.......i sometimes show 'em my dash mounted vacuum gauge in my jeep....it's pullin' a steady 21hg at idle

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1988-ford-bronco-need-heads-rings-bad

Lemme know how things are going

The medic

I can not get the car running it trys to start but it dont. Can i have the steps on how to set the distributor timing?

-Put the engine no.1 piston on its compression stroke/TDC, align the crank pulley to 0/TDC markings-check if rotor is pointing to no.1 cap tower if not remove the distributor and reinstall it making sure rotor is pointing to no.1 cap tower, attempt to start-if it starts use a timing light to set the ignition timing to specs

My car will start if you put ether in the starter body. I put a new fuel pump on it, checked all the fuses, new distributor, fuel pressure regulator, checked inertia switch in the trunk. Fuel injectors are fine. I went through your entire checklist for crank but no start all the way down to "obscure starting issues" and I have none of those problems. I have spent a lot of money on the car already and still it will not crank. Any idea of what the problem could be? I have not been through any water puddles or hit any potholes. I was driving the car one day and it was running fine. I parked it, and then next weekend it just would not start.

check the brown fusible link on starter relay by battery it should have twelve volts on both sides that powers the fuel pump relay and may be your problem. I am assuming you cannot hear the pump kick on when key is turned on. if that is burnt up no fuel it will attach to an orange/light blue wire.

I checked that fusible link - not the problem. Also, I have 45 psi fuel pressure.

then if you are spraying either in it and it is starting there is an ignition problem not letting fuel injection work. scan for codes and follow pictures for instructions test ignition system only as you already have fuel pressure.

I have checked and/or replaced all components of the ignition system. Last weekend I replaced all of the fuel injectors. This weekend I put a brand new distributor on it.
Now I'm thinking the only thing left is the ECU. I removed it and can't visibly see anything wrong with it. Nothing looks burnt up or corroded.

have you done any of the tests I sent? what I sent is to diagnose your problem. please follow those to see why your car isn't starting