Trouble code E049 is an air management problem

start by pushing off and warmer buttons on the info panel.when you see all the segments light release.it will start going through the computers.write the coes down.then comeback and we can see whats going on.

code E049, air management. i think the dealer took the easy way out. they don't want to work on cars older than 10 years. my research found many air mgmt. problems besides diverter valve. sorry, i thought i posted the code. i'm so used to looking it up i think everyone knows. my wife sure does. thanks

the only code is E049. could be diverter valve, but i'm not having typical symptoms. car runs strong. no bogging or hesitation. maybe a slight miss. thats why when i heard could be a leaky injector, air pump, etc. i knew the dealer didn't want to work on any car 10 yrs. old or older. called 4 dealers. all said the same thing. thanks. here's a pic of motor. real clean.

YOU NEED TO GET A COPY FOR EO49 TROUBLE TREE AND FOLLOW WHAT IT SAYS WHAT TO CHECK ALSO VOLTAGES AT CERTAIN SPOTS.YOULL FOLLOW THE TROUBLE TREE THEN YOULL KNOW WHAT TO REPLACE OR HARNESSES ARE NEEDING REPAIRING.THE PART YOUR LOOKING TO CHECK IS THE VACUUM DEVERTER.I WOULD NOT JUST REPLACE THE VALVE.

I couldn't imagine a dealer not wanting to work on a car that is 10 years old, unless the dealer feels it has no one competent to work on it, and that is them being honest and not wanting to burn your money. A leaking injector, would not be a probable cause for this code only, you might also have some running problem(misfire), or an oxygen sensor code. The oxygen sensor itself, is a major factor in determining this valve is inoperative. It should indicate a lean change when the management valve is diverting air to the exhaust manifolds. More than likely, it is a valve, and more specifically, one of the vacuum solenoids on this valve(there are two). First would be to determine that there is source vacuum to the valve, if you trace the hose, it is the one that comes from the engine. Do you have a factory service manual? This valve can be tested through on-board output overrides. I would love to explain the operation of the on-board feature, but it would be lengthy, as it is quite involving. A factory service manual breaks it down and has illustrations to guide you. There is no reason you can not operate the vehicle with this valve not functioning, unless it is stuck diverting air to the catalytic converter, in which case it would probably get red hot(the cat). In most cases, it is not diverting to the manifolds. A non-functioning air pump would have potentially other symptoms like excessive noise, or it seizes and causes the drive belt to squeal/melt/break. You can find the hose from the air pump at the valve, disconnect it, and with the engine running, check for air flow through the hose. I did a quick check, go to ebay and do a search on item 360180589973. See if this looks the same as what you are after. It states 87,88, and 89, I am not certain that the valve ever changed through its application.

i appreciate your replies, but the answers don't seem to make sense in my situation. 4 caddy dealers said they won't work on 10 yr. old cars. the one mech. i found that seemed to know a lot about caddys, he calls his place cadillac specialist, says it could be the diverter valve or many other things. he didn't think that since my car was running so well that was the problem. he also said unless it totally failed the cat would be the worst of my problems. since the valve is unavailable, do you think the injector issue could cause that code since injectors were changed by previous owner and 2 by me? i am not young, healthy or competent enough to do the tests you suggest so i have to depend on a mechanic, no dealer though. it just seems improbable to me that my car would start every time, run well and have no issues except for ses light, maybe a slight miss, injector problem? how likely is it that i would have no symptoms if valve has failed. stories i heard indicate poor driveability, bogging, stalling etc. this code apparently has many causes. 3 people have changed diverter valves and still had ses light and code E049. i can't afford or even locate a new or salvaged diverter valve and since it is possible listening to others that a valve change will not be the cause, what is your next 2 or 3 educated guesses? i am bringing the car to this mech. as soon as he has free time to run checks. i was thnking check fuel pressure, ohms at injectors, maybe even something as small as a vacuum leak. the tests will take him some time. it's not like bringing him a car with a bad starter, so i'm trying my best to narrow down possible causes. my last car was a ws6 firebird with an lt1 engine. every problem according to most mechanics was the optispark which never was the problem, just the easiest diagnosis and most expensive. it became a joke among lt1 owners. i hope this is not the same situation. it seems younger mechanics don't want to or can't diagnose problems. this guy is older than me and i'm 63. maybe he will take the time to look for the simple cause before having me throw hundreds of dollars in parts and hoping one will fix the problem. if i make sense to you, feel free to respond or just say i'm a crotchety old guy. i would like to hear your thoughts and even if you don't respond i'll let you know the outcome and donate to you for your time. thanks

It is being over-analyzed. E049 is a simple air management problem, the players in the game are the combination(diverter)valve, and the ecm. Included is a description and fail conditions for the E049. It would be a simple diagnosis for the right person, enter the on-board feature your vehicle is equipped with, excercise the EDV(divert solenoid), and the ESV(switching solenoid) that are all part of the valve itself. Does the airflow from the pump change respectively? From there the valve is condemned, or the switching signals from the ECM are then checked, and based on the result, the ECM is faulty or you have a possible wiring problem. You are going to spend more money running these other 'checks', rather than having the simple test from the fault code chart performed. The fault chart has two possible failures, the valve and the ECM. There is also wiring, and plumbing to check. The reason the car starts, runs well, and have no issues, is that this is just an emission control device that is at fault. Would you pass state emissions test(if you have it), that is another story, and that is why you would be obligated to put forth the effort in repairing. You want to narrow down possible causes, but you seem to be avoiding the potentially obvious cause, the valve. It seems to me that others are telling you what it COULD be, rather than testing for the smoking gun. My next two to three educated guesses are: function test the valve, and function test the valve.

DESCRIPTION:

This diagnostic test monitors the AIR system to detect operating problems with the Electric Divert Valve (EDV) and Electric Switching Valve (ESV). It performs these tests using the oxygen sensor and ECM integrator function to monitor valve function. This switch valve has a 2 pin connector and is located behind the cruise control servo bracket. The divert valve also has a 2 pin connector and is atop the AIR switch assembly.

TEST CONDITIONS :



Codes E013, E014, E015, E021, E022, E024, E031, E032, E034, E044, E045 not set.
Coolant temp between 80°C and 110°C.
Closed loop operation for 9 minutes, oxygen sensor ready.
Engine speed 400 RPM or greater.
Vehicle speed 0 MPH.
FAILURE CONDITIONS :



The ECM fails to detect an increase of 15 or more integrator counts, when AIR system diverts to the exhaust manifold.
System has failed test 4 times.
ACTION TAKEN :



ECM illuminates "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" telltale for entire key cycle.
AIR system is placed in divert.
NOTE ON INTERMITTENTS :

If code E049 is stored as a history code, verify oxygen sensor operation using Chart A-7 . Check the operation of the AIR system using Chart C-7 . Check all connectors, hoses and pipes for proper connection, corrosion, or damage.

gstacy is right you need the manual.the eo49 trouble tree is in there.you test by the tree and it tells you what to repair or replace. wish i had all my manuals i had 81 through 01.there worth alotta money now.this tech your taking it to will need it to repair it also.

i wish i could perform the tests you outlined, but i'm not competent enough on newer cars. i can work on points, plugs and condenser for a tuneup. when computers were added to cars i stopped doing most of my own work except filters, anti-freeze and other simple maintenance. i am also 63 and not in the best health so i will have to trust this new mechanic i found and give him your answer and hope he can do the diagnostics. i just want to feel comfortable that my car won't leave me stranded if or when the diverter valve fails. i use a walker to get around so it would be a problem. if i read your answer correctly the valve is part of the emmissions system and while i'll keep looking for one, is it safe for me to use my car without fear of breakdown? of course i want to be a good citizen and i care about the environment, but i have no other car and if the part is discontinued i have no choice except to hope i find one in a salvage yard. i will let you know how i make out at the mechanic, but if you could just put my mind at ease and tell me i won't breakdown, just pollute a little more than necessary i would be grsateful. thanks

As a confidence builder to you, if you can still set point gap and adjust dwell, you can push a few buttons. This is all that is required to navigate the on-board system. As I said earlier, I would go into details on it(on-board), but it would be lengthy, and confusing at some point. A factory service manual would break it down. The valve is just in place to divert fresh air to the manifolds, or converter, during certain operating conditions, to clean up the exhaust emissions. I do not see any threat in it leaving you stranded.

thanks. i am going to make an appt.monday to have the mech. look at it. i do not have a manual so since i depend on my car i think it is best for him to diagnose it. i will inform him of your suggestions. this guy is pretty old school, has 3 classic 60's eldorados in his shop. i'm pretty sure he has a manual or knows how to perform test. i will let you guys know how i make out and donate to your site if i have any money left, ha ha. i'm sure it will not be that much, but i started hearing i would lose my car to junk or maybe thousands to keep her running i panicked. times are tough now so i cannot afford to lose my car or spend that much money. you do deserve a contribution for your help when i find out the problem is as you say an emissions not a driveability issue and my car is running with no issues. thanks for your help.

Have you come to a resolution on your concern?

this valve is behind the air pump.they were on all the cadys.find out how many years they used the same part.go to the salvage yard if they dont have it.they put it on a part locater and get and garranty it.