engine dies when keys is release.

Does the key stay forward or bounce back? Is it the same as before u changed it? And by ignition switch do you mean where the key goes or the electrical switch?

When ignition switch is in run position, are the dash indicators lights showing on dash?

ok mike, when i turn over the key, the engine starts but once i let go of the key it dies. I have a cousin(use to work with the deal for 20 yrs now) that came and look at and try it too. He say that there no power to the switch so that the key switch will stay on.

the key does not bounce back or go forward. yes it where the key goes but the electrical switch is behind where the keys goes. yup it still the same with the pulled one and the original one.

ok khlow, when the i turn over the key( i have to hold the key for the engine to turn on), none it the light indicator is on. When the ignition is on, all the indicator is on tho.

Is vehicle with or without turbo? Does applying slight pressure on the accelerator keep the engine running?

ok khw, it a jdm 2jz twin turbo. it not the orginally engine. the old 7m blew out on me when i took it to my buddy house to fix it. Yes i have to put slight pressure on the key to make the engine running (not sure if im in the dame page as you). if the engine on, and i step the peddle for the gas, it just rev, and once key is let it go then it dies.

Keep your foot on the pedal and release the key, dioes it stall? I need to find out if it is the idle control system that is the cause.

If any repair work was carried out underhood, check the MAF and air hose installation.

Did you check for trouble codes?
Is the MIL indicating?

Sounds like the electrical switch behind the lock cylinder has failed. I would start there to cut expenses.

to khl, even if i step on the gas peddle and let go of the keys it still die. it a customize engine to a ma70 body. mine does not run maf, it run a map instead. cuz a japenese spec engine not a us spec.

ok mike, i know it the electric switch, but i got another at the junkyard and still the same. it like there no power to keep the switch on.

There are a few possibilities for this and the ignition switch was my initial thought but you mentioned replacing it so I did not go in that line. There is a possibility the replacement switch is bad as well and we shall start with the basics.

Get a test light or DVOM.

At the igniter or EFI resistor, check the Black/Orange wire for battery voltage with ignition switch turned on. There must be battery voltage. If available, start engine and if it stalls, do not turn off ignition key, recheck the Black/Orange wire for battery voltage.

Turn on wiper or turn signals to see if they works.
At fuse block # 1, check the ENG fuse (15 A) for battery voltage.

At ignition switch there are 6 wires. Do you have battery voltage at the White and White/Red wire?

ok khl, me and my cousin test it out the old switch, but the were no volt coming through one of the wire, i for got which one was it. i think it was the white wire.

You have to be specific. The wrong information would get you nowhere.

If it is the White wire that does not have any power, are the following components working?

a) Door locks?
b) Power seats?
c) Power windows?
d) Headlight cleaner?

If all above do not work, check the underhood fuse box AM1 (40 A) fuse.

all the above work khl.

Please reconfirm the wire at ignition switch that does not have any battery voltage.

khl, i got it fix now... i took to guy that did a swap on my car and found out what was the problem... i did short the main relay that was the fuse box under the hood had to change the how fuse box... ok there was two more problem about the car. first off the car dies when im on the freeway and shifting it bac ti netrual. second is that when my headlight turn on and wen i brake, the brake light comes on at the dash board.

For the stalling in neutral, check the engine idling .

For the brake light indicator turning on, check the taillights ground connections.