getting to much gas and fouling my plugs out
May 23, 2011 at 5:44 PM
fouling out plugs
1988 JEEP WRANGLER
TBFREEMAN
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First step would be to check the computer for stored codes and see what they point you to. That will give you a starting point and direction.
May 23, 2011 at 6:03 PM
This is a Carburetor? Or throttle body?
You can get it "Coded" at Many Popular Auto Parts Stores.....For Free!!!
Bring 'em back here, and we will assist in whatever you need to check out.
Your vehicle is not a Spring Chicken, Imma CJ Kinda Feller, I know 1st hand, what people do to them over the years.
So, when you return, please let us know about any modifications that might have been done. History, last tune-up--what was done, etc.
The overall condition of your vehicles engine, such as Vacuum lines that have been misrouted--capped off--broken--missing stuff.
You can post pics, if you like, they do help us sometimes.
I'm more in tune with the CJs w/ carbs...back when things were simple!
wrenchtech is trained up with the Newer, High Tech computer stuff...(probably old stuff too)
Respond at "Reply To Question" Below
The Medic
You can get it "Coded" at Many Popular Auto Parts Stores.....For Free!!!
Bring 'em back here, and we will assist in whatever you need to check out.
Your vehicle is not a Spring Chicken, Imma CJ Kinda Feller, I know 1st hand, what people do to them over the years.
So, when you return, please let us know about any modifications that might have been done. History, last tune-up--what was done, etc.
The overall condition of your vehicles engine, such as Vacuum lines that have been misrouted--capped off--broken--missing stuff.
You can post pics, if you like, they do help us sometimes.
I'm more in tune with the CJs w/ carbs...back when things were simple!
wrenchtech is trained up with the Newer, High Tech computer stuff...(probably old stuff too)
Respond at "Reply To Question" Below
The Medic
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May 23, 2011 at 6:58 PM
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I had a diagnostic hooked to it and it showed no codes. Put ner air filter and changed plugs again.
May 23, 2011 at 6:58 PM
I purchased it the first of this year. Had a tune up done then. Its throttle body. Tune up consist of plugs, plug wires, fuel filter,distributor cap.I did see where some vac lines were dry rotted could this possibly be the problem? Thanks.
May 23, 2011 at 7:04 PM
Your standard code reader is not going to help on this vehicle. this is OBD1 and will require the use of a professional. If you truly have no codes stored, that would prove one of 2 things. Either you vehicle is not running rich or there is a root problem with the computer itself because it's engineered to recognize that stuff.
May 23, 2011 at 7:13 PM
Would dry rotted vac lines cause this?
May 23, 2011 at 7:16 PM
I took it to a mechanic to have diagnostic done. Do they use OBD1?
May 23, 2011 at 7:20 PM
Roger!!!
Vacuum lines, need to S.uck air where they should, not s.uck open air!
Usually a vacuum leak makes you run "Lean", not "Rich"....But if something else has been tweaked or adjusted to "counter" a problem, that may make the Rich issue show up.....Your System was the "beginnings" of computer cars.
What wrenchtech wants to determine, is are you running "Open Loop" or "Closed Loop" (we can explain that too!).....This may require more testing on your end, some diagnostic tools, can you or do you have friends who can assist?
Do you have a repair manual? (with vacuum diagrams)
I do not think that source is available to me here, I do not think it will go that far back.
Click on me, send your Email in "Messages"....Not here, for the world to see. Maybe can get you something, that I cannot post here.
Are you in California or other 49 states? (Diagram info)
Once you get the Vacuum straight, and like it should be connected, RETURN HERE, and we will continue.
The Medic
Vacuum lines, need to S.uck air where they should, not s.uck open air!
Usually a vacuum leak makes you run "Lean", not "Rich"....But if something else has been tweaked or adjusted to "counter" a problem, that may make the Rich issue show up.....Your System was the "beginnings" of computer cars.
What wrenchtech wants to determine, is are you running "Open Loop" or "Closed Loop" (we can explain that too!).....This may require more testing on your end, some diagnostic tools, can you or do you have friends who can assist?
Do you have a repair manual? (with vacuum diagrams)
I do not think that source is available to me here, I do not think it will go that far back.
Click on me, send your Email in "Messages"....Not here, for the world to see. Maybe can get you something, that I cannot post here.
Are you in California or other 49 states? (Diagram info)
Once you get the Vacuum straight, and like it should be connected, RETURN HERE, and we will continue.
The Medic
May 23, 2011 at 7:22 PM
I have no diagnostic tools or anyone to assist me. I live in Arkansas. I clicked on you but did not see messages any where.
May 23, 2011 at 7:37 PM
Roger, pin down about where in AR?
Sent you a message
Go to top of this page, click on "You" at "Welcome tbfreeman", Look left, then check your messages.
The Medic
Sent you a message
Go to top of this page, click on "You" at "Welcome tbfreeman", Look left, then check your messages.
The Medic
May 23, 2011 at 11:13 PM
Clicked on my user name but had no messages. I live in Russellville about 70 miles from Little Rock.
May 23, 2011 at 11:28 PM
Should be there, just sent again!
The Medic
The Medic
May 23, 2011 at 11:41 PM
OK, tbfreeman, Now that you are confirmed, to still be with us!
How 'bout posting/ pasting what you just sent me at my E-mail, as far as what you have done thus far.
Glad to hear the vacuum lines are pretty much right.
Have you got him coded, the old OBD1 way (again?)
Your injectors are above the throttle plate, so yes it should get "wet"......too much maybe but do not know
The fuel regulator you mentioned, may or may not be bad, you need to check fuel pressure to see if it's working within specs......before you needlessly spend $$$ on a new one.
My Dad's '86 T-Bird had similar problems, rather his would just die at idle...His showed different codes at random, sometimes none at all.
After several months and throwing parts at it, new and used, we discovered the Injectors were bad. We figured this out, by swapping salvage yard injectors in to his....When certain that was the fix, I bought new ones.
I brought you back here, cause there are a lot of other reading this, whom I'm sure know this stuff better.
The Medic
How 'bout posting/ pasting what you just sent me at my E-mail, as far as what you have done thus far.
Glad to hear the vacuum lines are pretty much right.
Have you got him coded, the old OBD1 way (again?)
Your injectors are above the throttle plate, so yes it should get "wet"......too much maybe but do not know
The fuel regulator you mentioned, may or may not be bad, you need to check fuel pressure to see if it's working within specs......before you needlessly spend $$$ on a new one.
My Dad's '86 T-Bird had similar problems, rather his would just die at idle...His showed different codes at random, sometimes none at all.
After several months and throwing parts at it, new and used, we discovered the Injectors were bad. We figured this out, by swapping salvage yard injectors in to his....When certain that was the fix, I bought new ones.
I brought you back here, cause there are a lot of other reading this, whom I'm sure know this stuff better.
The Medic
May 29, 2011 at 2:12 AM
Got all my vac lines just like the diagram showed. had a few bad ones but i replaced them . changed cts. took out injector and the o ring was bad so put new one on and still overfueling. also changed temp sending unit i think it was called. put new plugs in and same ole think.
May 29, 2011 at 2:20 AM
And yes i had it coded OBD1. Still shows no codes.
May 29, 2011 at 2:21 AM
DO YOU KNOW HOW TO USE A VOLTMETER? MAINLY THE "MILLIVOLT" PART
HOW MANY O2s YOU GOT? WITHOUT RESEARCHING, I THINK "ONE", AND IT'S PROBABLY IN THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD.....IS THIS CORRECT?......FILL ME IN!
THE MEDIC
HOW MANY O2s YOU GOT? WITHOUT RESEARCHING, I THINK "ONE", AND IT'S PROBABLY IN THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD.....IS THIS CORRECT?......FILL ME IN!
THE MEDIC
May 30, 2011 at 4:54 AM
All i can see is one 02 and yes its in the exhaust. I have never used a voltmeter.
May 30, 2011 at 9:30 AM
I wanna see if the O2 is reading anything (working), We can do this with a "DIGITAL" voltmeter. (Not an "Analog" meter, one with a needle)
Some of them things get to be expensive, like $80+, some are as cheap as $20. That's why we should see if it works before, you buy another one!.....This will also eliminate a factor too!
You can get one at "Harbor Freight" for about $5 or an Auto Parts Store for $15 or less.
You will also need some TWO Long "Jumper Wires", alligator clips on both ends....maybe 6 feet long each. I will show you pics
I can talk you thru the procedure....NOT HARD!
I have already made a few explanations (pics) on Using a Digital Voltmeter to check "Continuity" in wires (no breaks in the wire, etc.) This is another use for a voltmeter, not what you need to test now!
I can do the same for what you need to test......a "Millivolt" Reading on your O2 sensor, after it's heated up and running.
We will do our best on this end, you gotta do your end!
Also want to know how many wires are on your O2 sensor....One? or More?
The Medic
Some of them things get to be expensive, like $80+, some are as cheap as $20. That's why we should see if it works before, you buy another one!.....This will also eliminate a factor too!
You can get one at "Harbor Freight" for about $5 or an Auto Parts Store for $15 or less.
You will also need some TWO Long "Jumper Wires", alligator clips on both ends....maybe 6 feet long each. I will show you pics
I can talk you thru the procedure....NOT HARD!
I have already made a few explanations (pics) on Using a Digital Voltmeter to check "Continuity" in wires (no breaks in the wire, etc.) This is another use for a voltmeter, not what you need to test now!
I can do the same for what you need to test......a "Millivolt" Reading on your O2 sensor, after it's heated up and running.
We will do our best on this end, you gotta do your end!
Also want to know how many wires are on your O2 sensor....One? or More?
The Medic
Images (Click to enlarge)
May 30, 2011 at 8:16 PM
My friend had a new 02 sensor he put it on for me to see if that was my problem or not and guess it wasn't because still same thing. He checked fuel pressure and it was 30 but fell to 20 when giving it gas. He said fuel pressure should be 30-46 is that right? He thinks its my fuel pump.
May 31, 2011 at 8:00 PM
Allrighty then!
I'm in a Chilton Jeep '71-'90 Manual
I'm sorta in the Generic Throttle Body Injection Fuel System Part.
No idea whether this is 4-6-8 cylinder.....but we will go with it, as I do not see another explanation!
It says........Fuel Pressure should be 14.5 PSI at 2000 RPMs
This might be an issue..........listen close
The Fuel Pressure is "ADJUSTABLE"!
At the bottom of the Fuel Pressure Regulator is a TORX HEAD SCREW
Turning this screw "IN" (imagine that is Clockwise) INCREASES PRESSURE
Turning it "OUT" ( reckon that's Counter-Clockwise) DECREASES PRESSURE
This is performed at 2000 RPM
Whachu Think?
The Medic
I'm in a Chilton Jeep '71-'90 Manual
I'm sorta in the Generic Throttle Body Injection Fuel System Part.
No idea whether this is 4-6-8 cylinder.....but we will go with it, as I do not see another explanation!
It says........Fuel Pressure should be 14.5 PSI at 2000 RPMs
This might be an issue..........listen close
The Fuel Pressure is "ADJUSTABLE"!
At the bottom of the Fuel Pressure Regulator is a TORX HEAD SCREW
Turning this screw "IN" (imagine that is Clockwise) INCREASES PRESSURE
Turning it "OUT" ( reckon that's Counter-Clockwise) DECREASES PRESSURE
This is performed at 2000 RPM
Whachu Think?
The Medic
Jun 1, 2011 at 2:11 AM
Thats done maybe we didnt adjust enough i dont know. We found a bad crankshift position sensor...you think that could be it or should i adjust more on the fuel pressure reguilator? Thanks.
Jun 1, 2011 at 10:02 AM
You know, I gotta jump in here. All you have accomplished now is to ruin your fuel pressure regulator. There is no reason that should ever need adjusting and you don't know how to set it up properly anyway. Low fuel pressure would mean something else is causing it, not maladjusted regulator. When you finally find the real problem, you'll likely have to replace the regulator now too.
Jun 1, 2011 at 11:51 AM
Oh no not good news on that. Do you think the crankshaft position sensor could be causing this?
Jun 1, 2011 at 12:45 PM
Sorta figured low pressure might be from something else.....But....They say it's "TOO HIGH"?....Mr. Chilton says how too adjust it to 14.5 PSI.
I figure too much pressure, would also mean TOO MUCH FUEL THRU THE INJECTORS, in a "given period of time"
Maybe someone s.crewed with the regulator in the beginning, to get too much fuel....TOO RICH, That was the subject of the post....I do understand flow...I am a plumber!
All yours now!
No more CJ MEDEVAC tampering on this one!
I will continue to watch this post...to see the "Big Thank You, and sloppy kiss", at the end, after you have given your 110% of effort to fix the issue, I look forward to hearing it run!
The Medic
I figure too much pressure, would also mean TOO MUCH FUEL THRU THE INJECTORS, in a "given period of time"
Maybe someone s.crewed with the regulator in the beginning, to get too much fuel....TOO RICH, That was the subject of the post....I do understand flow...I am a plumber!
All yours now!
No more CJ MEDEVAC tampering on this one!
I will continue to watch this post...to see the "Big Thank You, and sloppy kiss", at the end, after you have given your 110% of effort to fix the issue, I look forward to hearing it run!
The Medic
Jun 1, 2011 at 2:28 PM
I'm not taking over this question. It's yours now. I just have one question........ Did anyone ever even bother to use a fuel pressure gauge before messing with the fuel pressure regulator. You don't even have to respond because I already know the answer.
Jun 1, 2011 at 2:38 PM
Yes fuel pressure was at 30 then when give it gas it fell to 20.
Jun 1, 2011 at 3:01 PM
Post your email I will send a PDF with all electrical testing info, fuel pressure should be 14.5 psi.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
WARNING: Always relieve residual fuel pressure in fuel delivery system
before opening system. To prevent chance of personal
injury, cover fittings with shop towel while disconnecting
fittings.
Replacement fuel pressure regulator must be adjusted to establish correct
pressure. Remove air filter elbow and hose. Connect tachometer leads to
diagnostic connector D1, attaching negative lead to terminal D1-3 and positive
lead to terminal D1-1. See Fig. 4 . Remove screw plug and install fuel pressure
test fitting.
1.
NOTE: Fuel pressure test fitting is not included with throttle
body. Fitting (8983 501 572) must be obtained
separately.
Connect fuel pressure gauge to test fitting. Start engine and increase speed to
approximately 2000 RPM. Turn Torx head screw at bottom of regulator to set
correct pressure. Turning screw inward increases pressure and turning screw
outward decreases pressure. See Fig. 3 .
2.
All models require fuel pressure of 14.5 psi (1.0 kg/cm2 ). Install lead sealing ball
to cover regulator adjustment screw after adjusting fuel pressure. Turn ignition
off. Remove measuring equipment and test fitting. Install original plug screw and
air filter assembly.
3.All models require fuel pressure of 14.5 psi (1.0 kg/cm2 ). Install lead sealing ball
to cover regulator adjustment screw after adjusting fuel pressure. Turn ignition
off. Remove measuring equipment and test fitting. Install original plug screw and
air filter assembly.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
WARNING: Always relieve residual fuel pressure in fuel delivery system
before opening system. To prevent chance of personal
injury, cover fittings with shop towel while disconnecting
fittings.
Replacement fuel pressure regulator must be adjusted to establish correct
pressure. Remove air filter elbow and hose. Connect tachometer leads to
diagnostic connector D1, attaching negative lead to terminal D1-3 and positive
lead to terminal D1-1. See Fig. 4 . Remove screw plug and install fuel pressure
test fitting.
1.
NOTE: Fuel pressure test fitting is not included with throttle
body. Fitting (8983 501 572) must be obtained
separately.
Connect fuel pressure gauge to test fitting. Start engine and increase speed to
approximately 2000 RPM. Turn Torx head screw at bottom of regulator to set
correct pressure. Turning screw inward increases pressure and turning screw
outward decreases pressure. See Fig. 3 .
2.
All models require fuel pressure of 14.5 psi (1.0 kg/cm2 ). Install lead sealing ball
to cover regulator adjustment screw after adjusting fuel pressure. Turn ignition
off. Remove measuring equipment and test fitting. Install original plug screw and
air filter assembly.
3.All models require fuel pressure of 14.5 psi (1.0 kg/cm2 ). Install lead sealing ball
to cover regulator adjustment screw after adjusting fuel pressure. Turn ignition
off. Remove measuring equipment and test fitting. Install original plug screw and
air filter assembly.
Jun 19, 2011 at 12:08 PM
BTW codes can be read by anyone who has the ignition key. Turn key from off to on three times, then leave on on fourth turn, codes will flash the check engine light, count the flashes. 55 will be the last code, it means end of codes! read flashes first digit, is short flashes, the second digit displays after a short pause, and flash longer than the first. more than one code, the pause will be longer between codes. Codes will display three times.
Jun 19, 2011 at 12:12 PM
You may have a problem trying to get flash codes from that vehicle.
Jun 19, 2011 at 1:14 PM
still worth a shot?
Jun 20, 2011 at 3:28 PM