Starts but won't stay running.

It sounds like the air flow meter is stuck can you remove the intake tube and see if it moves freely?

Mine is doing the same it was the air flow meter, I got a used one and all fixed! I love this stie

I cant find a used one where did you get it?

1987 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 non-turbo manual transmission. When I disengage the clutch and start to go from a stop, my car sputters. I usually push the accelerator down about half way. When it starts sputtering, I release the accelerator and push down slowly. When I release the accelerator, my car feels like it slips, and it jolts and when I push the accelerator back down a little, it will jolt forward a little and not sputter as much. I've also noticed that it doesn't have very good acceleration what-so-ever, from a stopped position or in a high gear when I'm on the interstate. A friend told me to take the Cat Converter out and I've noticed that people who have trouble with acceleration have received answers to replace or unclog the cat converter. My friend also suggested to replace the headers and get a better exhaust system. Unfortunately, I don't have much money at the moment and am looking for the cheapest way to get better performance and better fuel economy, with increased acceleration. Please and thank-you.

Nick Markham

Hello,

This guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Let me know.

I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. I have replaced spark plugs. I have put new fuel lines and vacuum lines on the car. It starts up and cuts right off on its own. If I spray starter fluid in the intake it starts and I have to keep my foot on the accelerator or it will cut off. When I do that I can only get the car to go to 3,700 rpm's. What could be the problem?

put a vacuum gauge on the inlet if 15" or below suspect a clogged converter or exaust

i have cleaned the injectors, replaced fuel filter, fuel relays, distributor cap, rotor button, spark plugs+wires, starter, and established the pump is in working condition. i have adjusted the timing. the car will idle for a moment then it slowly drops in rpms and while driving it will randomly stall out and sputter when u attempt to accelarate

Inspect and test all the following listed below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking,fuel filter or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

My car will start but wont stay running

Check the fuel pressure if it's within specs also are the injectors pulsing.

I start car it runs for about 5min and then stops? if I start it and spray starting spray it stays running! so what could be my PROBLEM?

Check the coolant temperature sensor, fuel pump relay and fuel pressure specs

My 1986 Nissan 300zx non-turbo was running fine, then just stalled out suddenly and would not restart. I checked the plugs, wiring, fuel, all are OK. I installed a new coil, distributor cap and rotor. If I unplug the connector wire to injector #2, engine will start but idles on only 2 or 3 cylinders (very weak ignition in cylinders 2, 4 and 6). When engine is idling, if I reconnect injector #2 again, engine will stall out and will not restart - unless I spray Carb and Choke Cleaner into the air intake while cranking the starter. Then it will start. I checked the fuel pressure and it is 37-40 psi at idle - which is in the range specified in the Nissan Manual. Can anybody help me figure out what the problem is?

EDITED on 06/29/10:

Thank you, rasmataz! (below)..

We just checked the ohm readings at injectors #1, #2, and #3 (the others are buried deep behind wiring and hoses...) - and the reading at #2 was way off, only 1/3 of the readings at #1 and #3. So, #2 is definitely failed. I really appreciate your help and I will be making a contribution to this site!

Thanks again, ras and guys !!!

Check and test the injector no.2 solenoid resistances could be shorted out and dragging the other ones down or the wiring itself

I had some electrical problems on this car...Replaced the ECU (or ECM..what ever it's called) and it ran great for a few days. It sat for awhile and lately have been driving it and it blubbers....You can play with the accelerator to get it to run better, but in 4th or 5th gear is no good at all...Don't know if i should be looking at fuel or electrical. Alternator is less than a year old...put new battery cables on..Just dunno.
thanks
LF

Engine running rough or misfiring can be cause by the following:

1.Defective spark plug
2.Inadequate spark/coil,defective spark plug wire.
3.Lack of compression
4.False air leakage.
5.Faulty fuel injectors.
6.Insufficient fuel pressure.
7.Contaminated fuel.
8.EGR valve that is leaking.
9.Oxygen sensors.
10.Throttle position sensor.
11.Idle air control valve

codes 11,13,13,21,23,31,33&41

You got some serious problems here-Check for spark and let me know-

Diagnostic Trouble Codes - 1986
Nissan
11 Crankshaft Position Sensor
12 Air Flow Meter
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
21 Ignition Signal
22 Fuel Pump
23 Throttle Valve Switch
31 Air Conditioner
32 Start Signal
44 System Okay

Car cranks but won't start.

No dome light or diagnostic(dash) lights.

No accessories what-so-ever.

Check for blown fuses..
If it turns off and you have lost other lights you should check for blown fuses..

Relevant upgrades:
560cc injectors, blow through z32 MAF, Isky cams, Jim Wolf springs, HX35 turbo, intercooler, Walbro 255 fuel pump, wideband O2 sensor, and Nistune.

So, what happens is that the car starts and idles fine. In neutral, there's no problem revving the engine. However, while driving, it bogs down and runs real lean when it gets to 2500 RPM. After 2500 RPM though, the AFR goes back to normal and everything runs just fine in the higher RPMs.

I've tried swapping the ECM with two or three other working ECMs. Swapped coil, distributor, MAF, spark plugs and wires, and the PRW-2 ignition module.

What else should be checked?

what kind of exhaust it may not be enough back pressure on system causing this.

Upgraded from stock to 3" mandrel bent from the turbo all the way back. Hi-flow catalytic converter. Very typical exhaust upgrade for my setup.

from our description it really sounds like not enough back pressure or not running rich enough. Are those the injectors that are recommended for that type of setup as we don't run into this type of stuff very often. And is a 3" exhaust recommended for that type of setup as well. That seems like an awful large exhaust system for 3.0 L engine. I'd think 2 and half or three quarter would work out as well. you might try contacting Nistune support as I think you can download the way your car is reacting and they can tell or make adjustments for you I think. To me you have thrown a lot all at once at this car and you are either suffering from not enough back pressure or leaning out on th e injector side and support can give you an idea to richen it up enough to take that problem away

For the upgrades that have been done, a 3" exhaust is the recommended upgrade. There are a bunch of injectors from different cars that are compatible (or easily made compatible) with my setup. Nistune has been contacted. I sent it to the nearest place who handles Nistune to reflash it, but it didn't change anything. The AFR is slightly rich at around 11-12 everywhere except 2500 RPM. My O2 gauge just pegs lean.

BTW, I did say there was an HX35 turbo on this. You may have missed that. When you have a turbo, back pressure isn't something you worry about.

the try some different injectors you really need someone who can hook this up to a computer and watch what is happening on a dyno. that will be the only way to straighten it out.

I've had it on a dyno with a very reputable guy here in VA. Spent a good amount of money on that trying to figure it out!

The injectors had been serviced prior to installation, but I am going to check the wiring and see if there are any issues with that. While I'm in there, I might as well swap them again.

I thought that if there were a problem with the injectors, it'd be with the signal to them, instead of the injectors themselves. But hell, I've no idea what's wrong at this point, so if someone tells me to change the freaking valve stems, I'll do it.

I don't have a lot of experience with this that you are doing, however I do know that when you start adding boost you need to normally replace injectors with ones that are more compatible with the boost you are using as it throws more air so you need more fuel to it. ARe the injectors stock, if they are you need to add ones that have more poundage like instead of 30# go to 34# etc. If you are running a lot of boost like 8 lbs cut it down do 5 if you can. yes it may be a tad slower but if you drive this on the street who the hell cares. you won't have the stumble. I'd also wait until nistune gets ahold of you until they may figure something out. Also is the cam what is recommended or is it the biggest one you cold stuff in it.? all these factors have something to do with the way an engine runs. I kind of think you aren't really knowledgeable about this and have stuffed a bunch of money into something like a lot of people do. I don't know cause I don't know your abilities car wise. all I can tell you is good luck. One other thing if the car runs ok now then don't start screwing with the wiring cause that is where problems start wait til you hear from Nistune, you can still drive it.

First of all, I had to tell you that back pressure issues don't happen in a turbo system. Second of all, the first item in my upgrade list is injectors. I don't know if you get the right to call me out on my lack of knowledge when you can't even get through the list of upgrades. Stock injectors are 260cc, btw.

The cam is moderate, I know two other cars with very similar setups running the same cam without issue. There are much more outrageous setups in the Z world that have not come across the issue of running lean at one spot but being normal everywhere else.

And c'mon man, you're not really going to advise someone to continue driving a car that runs lean, are you?

from my impression of your question and replies is that I am thinking it's running lean when you have your foot into it and not normal driving. if it does it under normal driving then no but if it only does it with your foot in it then don't drive with your foot in it. And yes I saw where you added injectors but they may not be big enough for your application.. Like I said wait until Nistune gets back with you on this. I have no further comments other than good luck

I have a 300zx 1986 n it's not turning on. It cranks but doesn't turn on. Im thinking it's got to do with the ignition coil not releasing current to the distributor. Could it be the distributor itself, crank angle sensor in distributor, the rotor, or the cap attaching the high tention cables to spark plugs? Now both the cap and rotor have been replaced but car still doesn't turn on. Any suggestions?

thanks
- Santiago

You must first check to see if you have spark at the plugs, injection pulse and fuel pressure, a scan if you can do that as well to check for any unresolved fault codes will be a big help in the diagnosis, start here and report back your findings.