I have a 1985 CJ7 6cyl 258 ci. that goes through ingnition modules like they are cookies.

OK BOSS WE HAVE A RESISTANCE/ WIRING PROBLEM SOMEWHERE

I CAN HELP YOU FIND YOUR PROBLEM

....IF YOU WILL KEEP RESPONDING...AND ACTUALLY DO THE STUFF I ASK....AND REPORT BACK WITH YOUR FINDINGS

AND NOT MIX IN WHAT YOUR BUDDY'S ARE THROWING AT YOU!

I WILL GLADLY AID YOU AS MUCH AS I CAN---IF YOU WILL INVESTIGATE THE CJ5 & 7 FORUMS YOU WILL SEE THREADS OF 75 TO OVER 100 RESPONSES THAT I HAVE AIDED WITH

DO YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER...CAN YOU USE IT WITH DC VOLTS AND DO CONTINUITY TESTS WITH IT???? (I MAY CAN HELP THERE TOO)

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

LETS START WITH THE IGNITION MODULE

"THEY" ARE "USUALLY" PEOPLE WHO TALK A LOT OF JUNK, AND WOULD NOT BET THEIR LIFE ON THEIR INFORMATION

PLEASE SEND ME A PIC OF YOUR IGN MODULE MODIFICATION--AND A PIC OF WHERE/ WHAT IT DOES FOR A CARB

THEN SNATCH THE IGNITION MODULE OFF---BUTT-SPLICE ANYTHING BACK TOGETHER THAT YOU MESSED WITH

TAKE IT TO ADVANCE AUTO (IF POSSIBLE)

HAVE IT TESTED 5-8 TIMES (NO MATTER WHAT THEY MIGHT SAY)

WE ARE LOOKING FOR A PASS--EACH TEST

THIS IS THE MACHINE---THIS MACHINE CAN BE USED FOR MANY DIFFERENT MODULES........THE CORRECT CONNECTOR NEEDED TO TEST YOUR MODULE IS ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE MACHINE IN MY PIC.....I LAID IT THERE MYSELF!

THE MEDIC

STILL HERE?

ANY PROGRESS?

I SURE WOULD LIKE TO SEE WHAT MODIFYING THE IGN MODULES DOES FOR THE CARB?


THE MEDIC

Yes still here! No real progress, however I found the info I got for the carb change. It was "Installing the Motor Craft 2100/2150 in the AMC 258/4.2" by M.E.. there was a section called "Ignition modification for the computer controlled Carter BBD". one of the statements is as follows: ... "If you have a computer controlled Carter, you will need to do this step. I say, get your jeep running before you perform this step."

There is a link for a diagram showing the difference between the pre- and post-1983 ignition system.

I did not find an explaination as to what modifying the ign module does to the carb. There are diagrams showing the changes. And the tricked ingnition is described as follows: "The violet and orange wires from the distributor must be cut, and the orange wire from the computer to the ingnition module too. Notice the violet wire from the ingnition module goes into the connector, but doesn't come out the other side. You must splice one here." "A length of wire must be added to extend the violet wire from the distributor to the ign module, The distributor vacuum advance hose is moved from manafold vacuum to ported vacuum. you should add a tee here, since ported vacuum also operates the EGR valve. The stepper motor from the Carter is unplugged."

Yes I have a voltmeter (old - fluke 77), with DC and resistance testing.

I'll be able full, take pics of the modified ign module, and take it to Advance Auto for testing tomorrow.
BK

SO HOW MUCH OF THIS COMPUTER/ VACUUM STUFF IS STILL 100% LIKE IT LEFT THE FACTORY?

IF EVERY COMPONENT WAS STILL WORKING (OR EVEN STILL THERE) ON YOUR 27 YEAR OLD CJ....I MIGHT COULD SEE THE MODS YOU ARE SPEAKING OF

EGR---NOT EVEN ABLE TO USE IT, IF YOU INSTALL HEADERS...MY CONCLUSION IS IT IS USELESS AS FAR AS ENGINE PERFORMANCE GOES

I'M NOT REAL FAMILIAR WITH YOUR NEW CARB, BUT I DON'T SEE THE NEED TO MODIFY YOUR IGNITION AT ALL

BELOW IS PICS OF "RICK'S '85" AND MY '77 AND '46

WE CLEANED HIS ENGINE W/ PURPLE POWER

WE TOOK ALL VACUUM LINES LOOSE THAT WERE UNNECESSARY---THE ONLY ONES REMAINING ARE "PCV"--"DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCE (MANIFOLD VACUUM)" --"CHOKE PULL OFF"

TIED UP HIS MESS OF UNNECESSARY WIRING (TO BE CHOPPED OUT LATER)

WE MOUNTED THE INTAKE/ EXHAUST CORRECTLY, WHICH REPAIRED 2 KNOWN INTAKE LEAKS

WE REMOVED THE '85 STEPPER CARB (STEPPER INOPERABLE, AS MOST OLD ONES ARE)

WE INSTALLED A REBUILT 1979 BBD CARB (IT HAS NO STEPPER MOTOR, IT'S A "PLAIN JANE BBD") FROM ADVANCE AUTO (USING PROMO CODES/ ORDERED AND PAID FOR ONLINE/ PICKED UP AT STORE)----WE KEPT THE CORE ($50 REFUNDABLE) UNTIL ALL WAS 100% ON AND RUNNING, IN THE END HIS COST WAS A LITTLE OVER $200 FOR THE CARB

ALONG WITH THE CARB, WE INSTALLED A PCV FOR A '79 (MATCHED WITH '79 CARB'S COMBUSTION AIR NEEDS)

WE DID NO IGNITION MODS OTHER THAN VACUUM ADVANCE IS NOW RUNNING ON "MANIFOLD VACUUM"...NOT "PORTED VACUUM"

AFTER SETTING THE TIMING...IDLE SPEED...VERIFY TIMING....SETTING THE MIXTURE SCREWS.....RECHECK IDLE SPEED....ADJUST CHOKE....ADJUST HIGH IDLE STEPS.......IT WAS DONE!!!!!

IT PURRED LIKE A KITTEN......IN FACT, I REACHED OVER AND IDLED IT DOWN TO 250 RPM.......IT RAN SMOOTH AS SILK! (RICK ALMOST WAS HAVING AN ORGANISM!).....OF COURSE I GOT IT BACK UP TO 680 RPM (TUNE UP SPECS)

RICK IS ABOUT 60 YEARS OLD, HE APPROACHED ME WANTING TO KNOW IF I KNEW ANYONE WHO COULD TUNE HIS JEEP (HE SAW I HAD ONE)....HIS IDLED TOO HIGH, RAN ROUGH AND WOULD SHUT OFF, WHEN HE STOPPED. I TOLD HIM I WOULD HELP HIM (HE TOOK THAT TO MEAN, HE WOULD DROP IT OFF AND PAY ME). RICK HAS PAID FOR AUTO WORK ALL OF HIS LIFE.

RICK WAS WRONG!!!

I PROVIDED THE DRIVEWAY AND GARAGE

I SHOWED HIM WHAT NEEDED TO BE DONE---MADE HIM DO IT!

I EXPLAINED EVERYTHING TO HIM---TIMING----ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE 4 STROKES OF A 4 STROKE ENGINE....HE IS EAGER FOR MORE!

I SUPPLIED ALL OF THE TOOLS, METERS, MANUALS ETC.

RICK BOASTS ON WHAT HE HAS ACHIEVED.....I'M PROUD OF HIM TOO!

THIS IS WHAT I REALLY TRY TO DO FOR THE CJs THAT COME TO 2CARPROS


THE LAST PIC IS MY '77 CJ 5----IT'S BASICALLY HOW YOUR '85 STARTED OUT.....THERE WAS LITTLE CRAP, AND NO COMPUTER

I HAVE MADE MANY MODIFICATIONS TO MAKE MY WHOLE JEEP EVEN MORE USER-FRIENDLIER

YOU WILL SEE IN THIS PIC MY "OFFENHAUSER" 4 BBL INTAKE AND MY HOLLEY 390 CFM CARB (IT IS "CORRECTLY JETTED", FOR MY DRIVING HABITS USING AN O2 SENSOR AND AN AIR/ FUEL RATIO GAUGE, PERMANENTLY INSTALLED)....I GET ABOUT 18 MPG ON THE HWY

I HAVE OWNED NOTHING BUT CJs SINCE I GOT MY DRIVER'S LICENSE IN 1981 (PRESENTLY HAVE #S 6 AND 7 [7, IS A '46 WILLYS])

I HAVE TRIED NEARLY EVERY "GIMMICK" TO IMPROVE MPGs, I WAS ONLY ABLE TO GET ABOUT 16 MPGs FROM A BBD CONSISTENTLY....THEN I TRIED A WEBER DGEV, AND NOW THE HOLLEY........THE HOLLEY IS EZ TO ADJUST, PARTS ARE LOCAL, MPG IS GREAT, LOTS OF POWER IF I GET ON IT, COMPARED TO THE OTHERS......I DON'T "GET ON IT" OFTEN


DOES YOUR NEW CARB HAVE A STEPPER, AND HOOK ON TO THE CJs CONNECTOR?

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

THE REST

None of the computer & vacuum stuff is left, most have been removed! See pic. No "stepper" on the carb.

I do not see the need either, but at the time of install I was trying to follow directions exactly. The install went well and the carb has worked fine since March 2006.

I "repaired" my the module to have it tested, however none of the local auto parts have a "working" tester. NAPA said they did not have one!! So it looks like I have hit a dead end here, and not able to test the ign module.

My pics seem to be large files so they may not get to you.
BK

IF FUNDS ARE AN ISSUE

GRAB A NEW TAB

TYPE IN "PROMO CODES FOR _____" (ADVANCE AUTO, AUTOZONE, WHERE EVER!) LOOK FOR THE BEST DEAL YOU CAN FIND (SOME EVEN HAVE COUPONS FOR LATER)

THEN GO TO THEIR ONLINE SITE

PUT IN YOU VEHICLE INFO, CLICK START SHOPPING, FIND YOUR MODULE

TAKE IT TO SHOPPING CART, INSTALL YOUR PROMO CODE, THEN PURCHASE IT ON LINE, PRINT YOUR RECEIPT ........INSTEAD OF SHIPPING IT TO YOU, PICK IT UP AT THE STORE!

I'VE SEEN PEOPLE SAVE 40% BUYING BATTERIES AND OTHER STUFF, DOING IT THIS WAY!

LOOKY HERE!!!!

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ignition-Control-Module-BWD_5240484-P_194_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS_____

LIFETIME WARRANTY ALSO, IF THEY CANNOT TEST THIS ONE, THEY SHOULD HONOR THE WARRANTY AND DEFECT IT OUT AND GIVE YOU ANOTHER

IT'S NOT GONNA HURT TO KEEP A SPARE ONE, EVEN IF THE OTHER "IS GOOD"

I KEEP A SPARE IGN MODULE, FUEL PUMP, AND COIL IN MY JEEP AT ALL TIMES, ALONG WITH MANY TOOLS AND SMALL PARTS FOR ANYTHING



THE AUTO SALVAGE YARD--SELF SERVE TYPE, MIGHT EVEN BE CHEAPER----ANY '70s OR '80s FORD VEHICLE WITH A MODULE THAT LOOKS LIKE YOURS WILL WORK....KEEP IN MIND WHERE THE WIRES COME OUT OF IT HAS A "BLUE" PLASTIC WIRE HOLDER, YOU MUST GET THE SAME (RED, YELLOW, ETC. PLASTIC THINGEE IS NOT THE SAME AS YOURS) SEE THE "BLUE" IN MY LINK ABOVE-----AT MY LOCAL SALVAGE YARDS, THIS MIGHT COST $5 DOWN TO THEM JUST GIVING IT TO ME.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1993-saturn-sl1-shoulder-belt-mechanism-stuck

I'M GONNA SEND YOU PRIVATE MESSAGE, TO GET TO IT, CLICK ON YOUR NAME AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE, THEN LOOK TO THE LEFT FOR MESSAGES

WE'RE KINDA STUCK, NOT KNOWING WHETHER YOUR OLD MODULE IS GOOD, OR EVEN IF A NEW ONE IS GOOD....IT WOULD BE NICE TO TRY ANOTHER ONE TO GET US STARTED

THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM A MODULE IS TO FIRMLY GRASP THE WIRES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR AN PULL HARD (DIGGING AT THE CONNECTOR WITH A SCREWDRIVER, ETC. USUALLY JUST BREAKS OFF THE LOCKS) BESIDES, THE FACTORY MANUAL SAYS TO DO IT LIKE THAT

UNDER YOUR HOOD LOOKS GOOD!....MIGHT STILL, ELIMINATE MORE USELESS CRAP!

A/C IS CHEATING! (DOES A/C HAVE A WORKING SOLENOID TO STEP UP IDLE WHEN THE A/C IS ON?)

LOOK FOR A MESSAGE SOON

THE MEDIC

LETS TRY 1950s "GRAND THEFT AUTO, JUST FOR A QUICK TEST

POSITIVE BATTERY TO POSITIVE COIL

SEE MY PICS---INSURE THE CONNECTIONS ARE GOOD!

COME BACK WITH YOUR RESULTS OF TRYING THIS, IT MAY STEER US IN A BETTER DIRECTION TO FIND THE PROBLEM

I DO HAVE PICS OF OTHER TESTS TO TRY IF NEED-BE --SO DO YOUR BEST WITH EACH

THE MEDIC

I'll get another NAPA module tomorrow. I'm thinking of not "modify" this one at first, then see if it'll start or try to lite off. Your thoughts?

LET'S NOT MODIFY IT....LETS KEEP IT SORTA NORMAL

WE MAY HAVE SOMETHING ELSE CAUSING THIS PROBLEM, WE JUST GOTTA NARROW IT DOWN


WHEN I MOVED HERE, TO THIS HOUSE, THE FELLER ACROSS THE STREET HAS A '83 CJ 7, FOR MONTHS I HEARD HIM TURNING THE JEEP OVER FOR 5 MINUTES STRAIGHT BEFORE IT WOULD CATCH.....EVERY OTHER DAY IT WOULD BACKFIRE LIKE A CANNON!....IT'D FINALLY CATCH, OFF TO WORK HE WOULD GO!

AFTER I FINALLY MET HIM, I SUGGESTED I TAKE A LOOK AT IT

SOMEONE---HIS TUNE UP GUY/ SO CALLED MECHANIC, YEARS BEFORE, WAS TASKED IN GETTING IT TO RUN

EVERYTHING WAS STOCK, OTHER THAN THIS AND THAT BEING REMOVED OVER THE YEARS

FOR SOME STUPID REASON, THE GUY CUT THE BLACK WIRE ON THE WAY TO THE DISTRIBUTOR AND INSTALLED A STAKE-ON RING AND GROUNDED IT TO THE ENGINE?????

I PUT IT BACK LIKE IT WAS AND WE PERFORMED A MAJOR TUNE UP---STARTS WITH MAYBE HALF A TURN OF THE CRANK NOW......NO MORE CANNON SHOTS WAKING ME UP!

NEIGHBOR IS SORTA A CHEAPO KINDA GUY, NEEDS TO CHANGE THE CARB, AND REBUILD HIS TRANNY, ALONG W/ A GOOD BIT OF COSMETICS


JUST FOR GIGGLES, AND THIS IS VERY SIMPLE. TAKE WHAT WOULD AMOUNT TO A 20 OZ SODA BOTTLE PLASTIC "CAPS/ TOPS" POUR 3 CAPFULS OF FUEL INTO THE CARB, ATTEMPT TO CRANK IT.......LET ME KNOW EXACTLY HOW IT ACTS.....DO ALL OF THIS OUTSIDE, A WET TOWEL AND A FIRE EXTINGUISHER TO USE....JUST IN CASE!

WHEN YOU SUBMIT YOUR FINDINGS, AND MAYBE THEY AIN'T SO GREAT

WE WILL MOVE ON TO THE NEXT TESTS

THIS WILL NOT BEAT US!

THE MEDIC

Ok let me back up first, Earlier you suggested jumping from the battery to the coil, I have not done that. I assume I'll need to turn the key, right? What happens then?
I've sent you my email as suggested, did you get it?
Next I need to install the new purchased moldule w/o splicing it.And try to crank it. I've a can of starting fluid, which should do the job of the gas.
I'll be out tomorrow , working on a friends fence !!
I'll get the new module and try to start it friday. Will let you know the resiluts then, Thanks.

YOU ARE DOING GOOD!

ROGER ON FIRING IT UP!

STARTER FLUID IS JUST FINE, YOU SHOULD NOT NEED BUT A SHORT BURST OR TWO. BE PREPARED SHOULD YOU START A FIRE....I JUST WANNA KNOW IF IT DOES ATTEMPT TO BUST OFF, YOU CAN STOP AFTER A FEW ATTEMPTS....SO NO NEED IN CONTINUOUSLY DOING IT, IF IT DON'T SPIT AND SPUTTER AND COUGH AND AC LIKE IT WANTS TO

IF THE IGNITION FROM THE KEY IS WORKING, THE JUMPER IS JUST "INSURANCE".

IF THE IGNITION FROM THE KEY DOES NOT WORK...THE JUMPER WILL TAKE OVER.

....IF IT DOES START, REMOVING THE JUMPER OR TURNING OFF THE KEY WILL KILL IT.

I'LL HELP YOU WITH ANYTHING ON YOUR JEEP...UNTIL YOU GET TIRED OF ME.

CONTINUE USING THE SAME THREAD, IF YOU START A NEW QUESTION, I MAY MISS YOU.

THE MEDIC

TRY THE MODULE 1ST

AND A SHOT OF FUEL IN THE CARB

THE JUMPER JUST TAKES THE PLACE OF "ON" OF THE KEY POSITION...USE IT JUST AS A TEST, OR FOR EMERGENCY DRIVING ONLY A FUSE IN IT (THE JUMPER) WILL ALSO PREVENT WIRES MELTING OR A FIRE, SHOULD THERE BE A SHORT IN THE ORIGINAL WIRING ("ON" CIRCUIT OF THE KEY).....SO IF YOUR JUMPER FUSE BLOWS, CEASE TRYING TO DO IT THAT WAY!

IF IT DOES RUN WITH THE JUMPER AND KEY "ON"----TURNING THE KEY OFF AND REMOVING THE THE JUMPER, IS THE ONLY WAY TO KILL THE ENGINE

HERE'S THE FUSE LAY OUT AGAIN (PIC)IF YOU NEED TO USE THE JUMPER

(POS BATTERY TO POS COIL....INSURE COIL GETS A GOOD CONNECTION)

IF THIS DOES NOT WORK, DON'T GO WILD, LET ME KNOW AND WE WILL ATTEMPT ANOTHER APPROACH

ALWAYS HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY AND TOOLS TO QUICKLY SNATCH BATTERY CABLES LOOSE IN A CRISIS.....A QUICK DISCONNECT AT THE BATTERY IS A REAL GOOD ITEM TO INSTALL.......SEE SOMETHING BAD HAPPENING?...KILL IT FAST!

GENERALLY YOU FREAK OUT IN A CRISIS, THINKING IS TOUGH!.....YOU AND YOUR PALS SHOULD PRACTICE THE "KILL" PROCEDURES, INSTEAD OF SCREAMING AT EACH OTHER!

THESE ARE ALWAYS A PLUS WHILE WORKING WIRING, OR AS A THEFT DETERRENT....YOU MAY LOSE THE MEMORY ON YOUR RADIO, BUT YOUR JEEP WILL BE SAFER!

KEEP US POSTED

THE MEDIC

Hey, well I got a new module and installed it. then cranked it over several times, but it did not fire or even seem to get any spark.
Next I installed the jumper, and again added fuel, and cranked it. Same results, no sound of it even trying to fire at any point with the key positions. I rechecked the connection, tried again, tried the jumper on the other coil terminal (just to be sure i was on +), tried again, nothing.
Next???
Can auto parts test the coil if I take it in?

TEST THIS WITHOUT UNBOLTING/ TWISTING/ OR REMOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR

IF IT TESTS BAD---I WILL EXPLAIN "UN-INSTALL" SO THAT "INSTALL" OF THE NEXT ONE WILL BE EZ

IF YOU REMOVE IT OWN YOUR OWN, WITHOUT MY STEPS, IT WILL BE MORE DIFFICULT TO RE-INSTALL.....BUT NOT THE END OF THE WORLD!

SET YOUR VOLTMETER TO "OHMS"---WE ARE TESTING THE DISTRIBUTOR THE CONNECTOR MUST BE DISCONNECTED FROM THE HARNESS

WE ARE LOOKING FOR CONTINUITY IN 2 PLACES

---BOTTOM PIN TO DIST BODY (GROUND)

---CONTINUITY BETWEEN THE SIDE BY SIDE PINS (PICK UP COIL)

THE ABOVE PICS ARE OF MY '77 JEEP, NOW WITH IMPROVED MOTORCRAFT DIST AND IGNITION...LIKE YOURS CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH


THE LAST 2 TESTS ARE FOR THE COIL--WRITE DOWN YOUR RESULTS---MY LAST 2 PICS ARE FOR A FORD TRUCK, DISREGARD THE VALUES (I WILL LOOK UP WHAT YOUR VALUES SHOULD BE IN "ONE OF MY REPAIR MANUALS"!!!)

EVEN THOUGH SOME OF THIS IS NEW, NEW STUFF CAN BE BAD TOO!

TEST RESULTS?

THE MEDIC

Good pics - thanks.
Test results:
1. blk. to grd - 1.0 omh
2. pins org. to vio. - 0.L
coil:
1. Prim. - 1.4
2. Sec. - 8.34

Hope this makes sense to you. !!

BK

YOUR COIL IS WITHIN SPECS:

PRIMARY 1.13-1.23 OHMS (75 DEG F [COLD]) HOT WOULD BE 1.50 OHMS (200 DEG F)

SECONDARY 7700-9300 OHMS (75 DEG F[COLD]) HOT WOULD BE 12000 (200 DEG F)

YOUR METER WAS NOT ON THE CORRECT SETTING (YOU DIDN'T KNOW) THE DECIMALS ARE ALL THAT MOVED....NO BIG DEAL, COIL IS FINE!

THE ABOVE INFO IS FROM HAYNES' JEEP CJ CHAPTER 5 PAGE 5-1




AS FOR THE 3 PINS IN THE DISTRIBUTOR CONNECTOR THE SIDE BY SIDE ONES ARE FINE (YOU HAVE CONTINUITY!)

AS FOR THE 3RD PIN (GROUND), THERE SHOULD BE CONTINUITY BETWEEN IT AND THE BODY OF THE DISTRIBUTOR....."1" MEANS "NO CONTINUITY

RETEST THIS PIN TO THE BODY---AND/OR TO THE SCREW INSIDE, IT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND TO THE DISTRIBUTORS BODY!



....EITHER THE BLACK WIRE IS BROKE BEFORE IT GETS INTO THE DIST

.......OR IT'S NOT SCREWED IN WELL, IT WAS LEFT LOOSE WHEN YOU WERE IN THERE BEFORE

.....TIGHTEN THE SCREW--OR TAKE IT LOOSE, SAND THE SURFACES THAT TOUCH

YOU MAY BE ABLE TO DETERMINE IF THE WIRE IS BROKE BY KEEPING THE TEST GOING, WHILE YOUR BUDDY MOVES THE WIRE AROUND (GENTLY) MOST LIKELY THE BREAK IS NEAR THE DIST


JUST IN CASE YOU GET CONFUSED:

CONTINUITY IS "OOO"/ "O"/ OR A RESISTANCE VALUE----ANYTHING BUT A "1"

NO CONTINUITY IS "1" ON THE METER, ABSOLUTELY NO CHANGE AT ALL


THE MEDIC

HAVE YOU, OR YOUR "ENVIOUS EVIL BUDDIES", HAD THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT....EVEN A LITTLE BIT....OR HAS THE BODY BEEN ROTATED, BEFORE THE "NO BUST OFF" ISSUE BEGAN?

I MEANT TO TELL YOU.......THAT'S A GOOD LOOKING RIG YOU GOT THERE!!!

I FEEL SURE YOU HAVE HAD MANY SUPER LOW, TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE OFFERS FOR IT TOO!!!

THE MEDIC

Thanks for the lesson. However I'm still confused. My meter shows M ohm, does not offer any setting choices.
When I touch the tips together the meter shows 0.2-0.6, when not touching it reads 0.L. I was thinking that "continuity" meant continueous like when the tips are touching you get a reading; and when there is not continueous "current flow" you do not get a reading (0.L) tips not touching? Like I said earlier I'm no electrician, and this is a foreign language to me!!
So we want continuity from the black wire pin to grd. or 0.L reading?
I'll retest, check the wire at the dist., sand the two surfaces, retighten screw, and retest. the meter should read anything but 1.00 like when I touch the two tips together correct?

Distributer has not be removed, nor moved prior to this issue showing up. However, I replaced the magnetic pickup which included removing the screw a few years back. Could be loose. I'll let you know what I find.

Oh yea ... Especially fathers who want to give their kid a graduation gift, for less than $500. They have no clue about what they were looking at, other than it was a "cool jeep!!" Sounds like you have "been there and done that" one too. When I tell then to add another 0 in order to even consider an offer they quickly move on.

Retest:
I removed the dist cap, and put the meter on the pin and the screw on the dist body (per pic), reading was 0.06 - 0.02. Not 1.0 this time, my bad. I removed and sanded the two surfaces and retightened, retested - 0.1.

SEND PIC OF YOUR VOLTMETER???

I'M NO ELECTRICIAN EITHER--JUST A LITTLE MORE ADVANCED DIYer THAN YOU!

LOOK AT MY 2ND PIC ABOVE, SET ON "K"...RATHER "200O K" ---ANY "K" SETTING WILL SHOW CONTINUITY ON MINE. HOWEVER DUE TO "RESISTANCE" THE CONTINUITY (COMPLETE CIRCUIT) WILL SHOW AN "OHMS VALUE" DEPENDING ON THE SETTING YOU CHOOSE

EXAMPLE--TEST A ONE INCH PIECE OF 14 GAUGE STRANDED COPPER WIRE, THEN TEST ONE SIDE OF A 100 FOOT 14 GAUGE EXTENSION CORD!

I'LL LET YOU INVESTIGATE THIS ONE! GO TO YOU TUBE, SEARCH "HOW TO" USE A VOLTMETER/ TEST RESISTANCE/ TEST CONTINUITY......I'M SORTA KNOWN FOR "I'LL HELP YOU, HELP YOURSELF"......I FIND THAT YOU PICK THINGS UP FASTER IF IT'S NOT JUST HANDED TO YOU!

LOOK AT MY "STAR PLAYER", HE'S BEEN HANGING WITH ME SINCE 2 DEC 11. HE'S 18 YRS OLD, WORKS IN FOOD SERVICE AT A HOSPITAL

I DID NOT REALIZE HE LACKED THE BASIC UNDERSTANDINGS OF AN ENGINE,UNTIL LAST NIGHT, HE'S BEEN DOING AND TESTING EVERYTHING I THREW ON HIM.....AND DOING AN EXCELLENT JOB OF IT!!! (SEE THE RESPONSE I SENT HIM LAST, AFTER SEVERAL HOURS OF PHONE CLASSROOM)

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1982-jeep-cj7-ignition-problem-spark-distributor-cap

IF YOU WANT TO, PAT HIM ON THE BACK, AT HIS POST......US JEEP GUYS HAVE GOTTA STICK TOGETHER!!!



AFTER YOUR LAST PROCEDURE,

WITH A SQUIRT OF FUEL DOWN THE CARB,

WHAT EXACTLY HAPPENS, WHEN YOU CRANK IT OVER???

I'LL HANG WITH YOU ALSO, AS LONG AS IT TAKES!

WE MAY BE SOON DOIN' THE PHONE COMMO ALSO

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

After checking to be sure everything was connected, I gave it a squirt of started fluid. After cranking it over several times - nothing, not even a hint of fireing!!

1) DID YOU GET YOUR MODULE TESTED 5-8 TIMES IN A ROW AT AUTOZONE OR ADVANCE AUTO... O'REILLY'S MAY HAVE ONE TOO????

2) IS ALL OF YOUR WIRING SPLICED BACK TO ORIGINALLY BEFORE YOU WENT WILD WITH THE SNIPS? DISTRIBUTOR AND MODULE?

3) HAVE YOU DISTURBED THE DISTRIBUTOR---TURN OR REMOVE IT?


4) FORGET THE VALUE ON MY VOLTMETER IN THE PIC....WHAT DOES YOURS READ WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH "ON"?

5) COLOR OF PLASTIC ON MODULE? LIKE MY 7/16 NON-ROTARY DRILL?(PIC IS OF WHAT I KEEP IN MY CONSOLE....I GOTTA A LOT MORE TOOLS AND CRAP STASHED ELSEWHERE, IN MY LITTLE CJ 5!)

LET'S GET YOU ON THE ROAD!...YOUR HOOD SHOULD ONLY BE RAISED TO "SHOW OFF" YOUR AWESOME POWER PLANT!.....NOT FOR WHAT'S GOING ON NOW!

THE MEDIC

I will assume that question 1 -3 are from another post, since we have do these already.

#4. With the ign. key in "on" position:
and with meter red lead on pos. coil terminal meter reads 1.44 VDC, and with blk lead on neg. battery terminal, meter reads 11.94 VDC.

SURE?

NOT THE REVERSE OF WHAT YOU SAID?

HARD TO IMAGINE THIS----IN MY PIC ABOVE, THE POS LEAD OF MR. VOLTMETER IS STUCK IN THE LEFT SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR CAP (AS VIEWED FROM THE PASSENGER TIRE) IS IT POSSIBLE THAT YOU HAVE THE COIL IN BACKWARDS (THE CAP SHOULD "CLIP" ONTO IT)

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

ALRIGHTY THEN!

I NO KNOW FROM OUR CONVERSATION THAT YOUR WIRING MAY NOT BE BACK TO ORIGINAL, FROM PREVIOUS MODIFICATIONS.

HERE'S A DIAGRAM

"BUTT SPLICE" THIS BACK LIKE IT SHOULD BE---NO TWISTING AND TAPING!

KEEP ME POSTED

THE MEDIC

Photo 1. FYI. On my ing. module there are only three wires out of the connector blk., org., grn., not 4 per your diagram.
Photo 2. These were the two wires cut ( my buddy added a butt splice when he cut them just in case I needed to reconnect them).
Photo 3. Wires going to the dist. Blk, org, purple. There are two blk wires leading from the single blk wire at the connector. One of these blks goes to grd. on the firewall, the other to the ign module (i assume, I could not follow it throught the harness). The orange wire from the connector goes to the orange wire butt splice, and to the ign module. The purple from the connector goes to the pink wire butt splice and to the ign module. Per the carb. install instructions. looks like this was done to bypasses the MCU, what do you think?

Heres a pic of the tricked diagram. This is the best I could get with my camera, and Kodak enhance. Originally the orange and purple wires from the dist. went into the harness and through the firewall. Now they go to the Ign. mod. orange to orange and purple to "added pink wire" spliced to the purple wire at the Ign mod.

DO YOU THINK YOU COULD SCAN THAT AND SEND IT TO ME ON MY EMAIL?

THE MEDIC

Latest testings:
All wires from the ign. module were tested from the unit to the dist. and coil. All showed continuity.
I have replaced the negative battery cable, as it was a little bit messed up at the motor mount, just for peace of mind.
In attempting to crank it, it now seems to be getting a consistant single "spark" when key is released to the start position. I still can not get it to do any more than that.

NEW TEST

IF IT FIRES UP, REMOVING THE JUMPER OFF OF THE BATTERY WILL KILL IT

GO FOR IT!

THE MEDIC

I "ASSUME" TOO MUCH!

I ASSUME EZ THINGS GET CHECKED, RIGHT OFF THE BAT

I SHOULDA HIT YOU WITH THIS EARLIER

REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP...LEAVE IT OFF, AND OUT OF THE WAY.

BEING "STERN", BUT NOT TOO FORCEFUL (DON'T BREAK THE ROTOR BUTTON!) SEE IF IT WILL TURN WITH YOUR FINGERS...BUTTON ALONE OR BUTTON AND SHAFT TOO.....IF IT DOES THE BUTTON MAY BE BROKE, IF THE SHAFT TURNS ALSO, THE GEAR ON THE BOTTOM OF THE SHAFT MAY HAVE SHEARED THE ROLL PIN WHICH HOLDS IT IN PLACE


IF THAT PASSED THE TEST, TRY CRANKING THE ENGINE, SEE IF THE ROTOR BUTTON TURNS.....IF IT DOES NOT TURN, THE TIMING CHAIN/ CAMSHAFT/ DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT, COULD BE BROKEN

IF THERE IS A PROBLEM---LET ME KNOW THE DEAL, I WILL EXPLAIN HOW TO TACKLE THE ISSUE THE BEST WAY I KNOW OF, BEFORE YOU START SNATCHING STUFF LOOSE!

THE MEDIC

UPDATE?

THE MEDIC