Jeep cranks, but won't start

Check and test the distributor pick-up coil and also the ignition control module and return with your findings.

How do I check these ?

You need a DVOM to perform the tests on the distributor pick-up coil in the distributor, also a ignition module tester to check the IC Ignitor

FOR SURE, ADVANCE AUTO CAN CHECK YOUR MODULE

SEE MY ANSWERS AT THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1977-jeep-wagoneer-77-360-begun-dying-random-only-happens-on-longer-drives-say

I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOUR ALARM DOES (IF IT AFFECTS IGN OR NOT)

THE REASON YOUR JEEP "BUSTS OFF" WHILE CRANKING IS BECAUSE IT IS GETTING FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE FROM "I TERMINAL" ON THE SOLENOID.....LIKE IT SHOULD!

SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A PROBLEM BETWEEN THE ACTUAL IGN SWITCH AND THE COIL

YOU MAY HAVE A SHORT, MAYBE MELTED WIRES ON THE MANIFOLD--SHAKE YOUR HARNESS WHILE SOMEONE ELSE CRANKS

GOT THE CORRECT COIL?......."FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR"????

RETURN WITH NEWS.....INVESTIGATE OTHER CJ 5 AND 7 POSTS IN THE 2CARPROS FORUMS

TRY THIS TEST TOO (PIC 2) THIS SHOULD FIRE UP YOUR JEEP WITHOUT THE POSSIBILITY OF A SHORT IN THE SYSTEM KILLING IT.....DEPENDING ON RESULTS, WE MAY KNOW WHERE TO CONCENTRATE OUR EFFORTS

WAITING ON YOU

THE MEDIC

GUESSING IT'S NOT IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, AS IT DOES TRY TO START WHILE IT'S TURNING OVER

I DO HAVE PICS TO TEST IT---IF NEED BE

I'LL BE BACK ON AROUND 19:00 HRS EASTERN TIME, AFTER WORK

THE MEDIC

I can definitely have the ICM checked, but the vehicle has a MSD ignition wired in and the harnass fromt he ICM is disconnected. I tried reconnecting it because someone said this can function as a backup ignition and that didn't seem to help.
The coil I bought said "use with electronic ignition" It is a BWD E71P coil. It doesn't specify "external resistor," but I looked it up and it is compatible with my model jeep/engine per the website. I did a google search and it sounds like this does work with the external resistor.

ICM checked out fine. The connections have some corrosion that I will clean before reattaching. The ICM they had for sale was crappy and since mine worked I didn't want to buy it there.

I went and bought a new coil that specifically says for use with external resister. This didn't make any difference. I tried the alligator clips from the battery pos terminal post terminal of the coil and then negative alligator clip from neg coil to the coil connector thing on your picture #2 above, got nothing with the key in the off and run position (didn't advance key to start position with this hookup). The coil was connected to the distributor when I did this test (is that correct?)
Autozone said they can't test distributors. Should I just replace?
Anyone know a good jeep mechanic in the Seattle area?????

I VISITED FT. LEWIS 6 TIMES, IN THE '80s, TRAINING WITH 2ND RANGER BATTALION (I WAS IN 1ST RANGER BAT, IN SAVANNAH, GA).....SO YOUR BESTUS JEEP JEEP GUY IS BACK OVER HERE ON THE EAST COAST!

LET'S GET A "KEY ON" VOLTAGE TEST ON THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL---SEE PIC 1---YOUR READING DOES NOT HAVE TO MATCH MINE!

THEN HOOK UP LIKE 2ND PIC---TURN KEY TO "START"....DOES IT CRANK UP AND RUN?

SEND PIC OF NEW DISTRIBUTOR AND ANOTHER OF IT'S WIRING COMING OUT OF IT

SO FAR YOU SAID IT WILL BUST OFF AND RUN, WHILE THE KEY IS IN START

THIS HAS ME "ASSUMING" THE DISTRIBUTOR IS GOOD---THE MODULE--IS GOOD----FUEL IS GOOD

FOR NOW---LETS GET IT HOOKED BACK UP, JUST LIKE IT WAS, WHEN IT WAS RUNNING

CHANGING THE FACTORS---REVERTING STUFF BACK LIKE ORIGINAL---MODIFYING STUFF---INVENTING NEW COMBINATIONS----MAKING UP YOUR OWN TESTS----STABBING AT STUFF AS YOUR BUDDY (WHO IS MORE LOST THAN YOU) SUGGESTS TO DO

.......WILL ONLY MAKE IT HARDER TO TEST AND DIAGNOSE, WE SORTA NEED TO METHODICALLY CHECK STUFF

I HAVE NOT FULLY RULED OUT A FUEL PROBLEM.....BUT WE WILL GO THERE IF NEED-BE

JUST GOT NEWS THAT MY MAMA IS HAVING CAR ISSUES--30 MILE TRIP---I'LL BE BACK AS SOON AS I CAN!

THE MEDIC

STILL WAITIN' ON YOU!

I WENT AHEAD AND LOOKED UP YOUR NSS....IS THIS IT BELOW?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_neutral-safety-switch-back-up-light-bwd_18971592-p?searchTerm=neutral+safety+switch

YOU CAN EZily TEST YOURS BY REMOVING IT AND ACTUATING THE "BALL" WHILE RUNNING A CONTINUITY TEST ON THE TWO TERMINALS.....1ST & 2ND PICS SHOWS THE PROCESS......IF YOU CAN UNDERSTAND MY HILLBILLY HOMEMADE PICS

IF IT DOES SHOW UP BAD, IT'S BEST TO REPLACE IT--"SAFETY" IS PART OF IT'S NAME......IT AIN'T REAL EXPENSIVE EITHER

MY VERY 1ST PIC SHOWS BYPASSING EVERYTHING AND RUNNING THE IGN OFF OF THE BATTERY

THE 3RD & 4TH PICS DOES THE SAME THING EXCEPT WE ARE LEAVING THE SUSPECTED "BAD" KEY CIRCUIT INCLUDED.....SEE IF THIS WILL MAKE IT RUN

I NEED SOME FEEDBACK---ESPECIALLY THE VOLTAGE AT THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL W/ THE KEY ON! (FROM MY LAST ANSWER)

THE MEDIC

Alright, I need to go buy a voltage meter....all I have is the yes/no 12v light meter. No actual reading. I have some pics to help you see my wiring and set up. In my possesion I have a new ICM and coil, but have not installed either because I want to FIND the problem before I add a bunch of confounding equiptment. Here are some pics... Pic 2 shows where the old ignition was disconnected and a newer system was spliced in. The jeep has the nutter bypass (which I believe bypasses the ECM) and it has an MSD. The alarm I mentioned does have an ignition block, but it doesn't allow the vehicle to crank, I have checked the alarm connections and the vehicle cranks so I don't think it is related to the alarm.

I hooked up the alligator clip wires like you showed me in pic#2 a few posts ago (bat direct to coil, etc) got nothing (tried with the old and new coil, no difference). Cranks, but no start. I'm headed down to buy a voltmeter.

So, I got a volt meter (pictured below) and I hooked the negative up to the battery negative and the positive on the positive side of the coil. When the key was in run there were 0.450 volts, and when it was cranked to start it shot up to like 60. This doesn't seem right, but I did it several times...????...

I did it again, just because I couldn't believe that number and it is 0.45-.5 VOLTS when the key is in the run position and 40-60 mVolts when the key is advanced to the Start position......Not sure what to make of all that. I charged the battery up today to make sure we were working with a full 12V and we are.

Do you have battery voltage at the coil positive terminal when key at run position?

OK BOSS

ONCE AGAIN---PUT EVERY THING BACK JUST AS IT WAS WHEN IT DID RUN, DAYS AGO (COIL AND ALL)

IF IT RAN THEN---WE CAN FIX SOMETHING AND MAKE IT RUN NOW!

I SORTA DON'T UNDERSTAND THE ADVANTAGE OF THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR????

I KNOW THE MODULE IS BUILT IN....SEEMS SORTA OUT OF THE ORDINARY/AND HARDER TO WORK ON IT NOW---I FEEL SURE IT'S MORE COSTLY TO REPLACE THE STUFF IT HAS TO USE........BUT THAT'S JUST ME!!!

LETS HAVE THE MFG/NUMBERS OFF OF THE COIL YOU HAVE BEEN USING---MAYBE I CAN FIND THE OHM VALUES WE NEED FOR TESTING IT

SEE IF YOU CAN HELP ME KNOW THE DEAL BETTER USING MY PICS

THE MEDIC

wow...think I can just fly you out here?

Here are some pictures from the instillation instructions that came in a large binder when I bought the jeep. The current coil on the jeep looks almost antique (probably the original), I don't see any markings on it. Will check again in the AM. I have everything currently set up as it was when it was running and I have not installed any new parts. I just have to believe it is some damn electrical connection given that we hit a bump and it instantly died. Since then, no starting. Enjoy the pics. There is a part on the sheet I have says "one added feature of using this stand along ignition is you can simply unhook the factor coil connector, distributor connector and module power connector and tape them over. This will give you a 'back up' ignition system in the event the CDI module ever fails! simply untape the existing connectors and plug the factor hardware back in a drive away!" I of course tried this and it didn't work.

What do you think is up with only getting 0.5volts to the positive terminal of the coil with the key in the run position and then getting only 500milivolts (which I guess is the same at 0.5volts...not sure why it reads differently on the volt meter) when the key is cranked to the start position.

0.5 volts won't tickle the coil-run a wire from the positive terminal of the batt. straight to the coil's positive terminal and check for spark at the coil wire disconnected from the distributor

LOTS ON MY PLATE TODAY

8 YEATS AGO TODAY---I SORTA GAVE MYSELF TO THE LITTLE OLE CAROLINA GAL, WHAT A TREAT FOR HER!

GOTTA WORK TILL NOON

BEEN A WEEK SINCE I DROVE WILLY TO WORK....I FEEL SURE IT WILL HAVE TO RAIN, EVEN THOUGH THE CHANCE IS SLIM TO NONE. MY CANVAS TOP IS FINE WHILE DRIVING, BUT IF IT PUDDLES ON TOP IT LEAKS PRETTY GOOD, DESPITE THE 10 OR MORE THOMPSON'S WATER SEAL TREATMENTS I HAVE GIVEN IT!

ICING ON THE CAKE.....HER 100 YEAR OLD GRANNY RETURNED TO HEAVEN A COUPLE OF HOURS AGO

I'LL BE TAKING MY LAPTOP AND A FEW MANUALS TO EDGEFIELD, SC AND ATTEMPT TO STAY OUT OF EVERYBODY'S WAY, WHILE THEY DO THEIR THING

I'LL GET BACK TO YOU SOON

LETS CHECK FUSES AND CONNECTIONS AGAIN---HAVE YOUR PAL CRANK WHILE YOU SHAKE YOU WIRING UNDER THE HOOD

POS BATTERY TO POSITIVE COIL SHOULD GIVE YOU IGN POWER AS IN MY PICS IN MY LAST ANSWER....

SEE YOU LATER TODAY

THE MEDIC

Alright. I tried, again, hooking the post battery to the pos coil and still got crank, but no start. Without the direct hookup, I could still detect electricity (with the meter that just lights up) in the wire from the coild to the distributor and in a spark plug wire from the distributor to the actual spark plug. I tried to visually check for spark in the wire running from the coil to the top of the distributor and couldnt see any spark but it shocked the hell out of me, so I'm assuming it works. A giggled the wires while cranking and got no change. I again tested voltage at the positive side of the coil while cranking and get 500mVolts and then get 0.5volt with the key in the run position. Unfortunately I have a trip planned to the beach for 3 days, leaving soon. Was going to take the jeep, but no going to happen so just taking the SUV. I'll have to get back on Thursday eve for some more playing around.

I just cant stop messing with it. I tried again to hook up the old ignition (like described in the my post before last) no change. I can get the jeep to start as long as I keep the key turned all the way forward in the START position and floor the gas....I got it to rev to 3000RPMs for a few seconds, but as soon as I let go of the key and it returns to the run position the thing dies!

OK BOSS

WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO GET SERIOUS NOW!

IT'S "TOUGH LOVE TIME".......SUCK IT UP!

NO MORE ABRA-CADABRA....POOF.....MAGIC TRICKS!

SO FAR

YOU HAVE 2 TECHS AT $0.00 PER HOUR


WE DON'T NEED THE MANUAL YET---BUT I CAN MAYBE TELL YOU PAGES TO GO TO LATER IF NEED BE

YOU NEED ONE OF THESE SO WE CAN CONTINUE....HAVE TO! WE CAN EXPLAIN HOW TO USE IT IN MANY WAYS

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-92020.html

OR THIS

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_digital-multitester-multimeter-actron_9090000-p?searchTerm=multimeter

OR WHATEVER!....DIGITAL IS BETTER THAN ANALOG (SWEEPING NEEDLE)

I HAVE JUST SAVED YOU A BUNDLE....IT'S YOUR TURN......CUT YOUR NEIGHBORS LAWN.....TAKE YOUR CANS TO RECYCLE.....YOU NEED $7 (THAT'S SEVEN BUCKS FOR ALL OF YOU CIVILIANS!)

NOW GIVE ME 50 AND ONE FOR THE GREAT AIRBORNE RANGER IN THE SKY!

I MAKE MY FIVE YEAR OLD GRANDSON WORK TOO!....HE FOLLOWS DIRECTIONS WELL....THESE ARE 16" WHEELS.....HE DID IT ALL EXCEPT FOR BREAKING THE NUTS LOOSE

VERY IMPORTANT QUESTIONS:

1) HAVE YOU OR YOUR EVIL BUDDIES PULLED THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT SINCE THIS PROBLEM HAPPENED?

2) WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP OFF AND DANGLING TO THE SIDE---WHEN YOU CRANK THE ENGINE OVER, DOES THE ROTOR BUTTON TURN?

3) FORCEFULLY, BUT GENTLY ENOUGH AS NOT TO BREAK THE PLASTIC ROTOR BUTTON.....CAN YOU TURN THE ROTOR BUTTON AND IT'S SHAFT WITH JUST YOUR FINGERS?....A LITTLE CW AND CCW "SLOP" OR "PLAY" IS NORMAL...... THE SHAFT TURNING IS NOT!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Starts at cranking position and dies when you let go the key-sounds like you need to triple check/test the ignition switch and if it has a resistance wire check that too-

LOOKS LIKE THE POS BATTERY TO POS COIL WOULD HAVE MADE IT GO

MAYBE WITH HIS SET UP----HE SHOULD TRY IT AGAIN---BUT "REMOVE" ANYTHING ELSE OFF OF POS COIL----JUST HAVE BATTERY ONLY JUMPED TO IT (THIS MIGHT ELIMINATE A "POSSIBLE" DEAD SHORT IN THE RESISTANCE WIRE)

I FEEL SURE WHAT MAKES IT BUST OFF DURING CRANKING IS THE "I" TERMINAL IS DOING IT'S JOB

IF IT RUNS---REALLY LOOK OVER EVERYTHING BACK DOWN THE RESISTANCE WIRE ALL THE WAY TO THE IGN SWITCH FOR A SHORT

THE MEDIC

Answers to your VERY IMPORTANT QUESTIONS:

1) HAVE YOU OR YOUR EVIL BUDDIES PULLED THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT SINCE THIS PROBLEM HAPPENED? no, never pulled this out.

2) WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP OFF AND DANGLING TO THE SIDE---WHEN YOU CRANK THE ENGINE OVER, DOES THE ROTOR BUTTON TURN? yes, it spins around in circles!

3) FORCEFULLY, BUT GENTLY ENOUGH AS NOT TO BREAK THE PLASTIC ROTOR BUTTON.....CAN YOU TURN THE ROTOR BUTTON AND IT'S SHAFT WITH JUST YOUR FINGERS?....A LITTLE CW AND CCW "SLOP" OR "PLAY" IS NORMAL...... THE SHAFT TURNING IS NOT! there is a little play, but nothing excessive, feels normal.

Based on the trouble shooting in the jeep manual you gave me online.....see page C 62, the voltage is low at the positive coil terminal, so I need to disconnect the "capacitor wire terminal" and recheck the voltage....what and where is the capacitor wire terminal?

I'm so confused...If the the problem is somewhere in the ignition aspect before the power gets to the coil (as evidence by low voltage at the coil) why won't the jeep run when I directly take power to the coil by a positive jumper form the battery?

THAT IS THE EXACT QUESTION THAT WE ARE PONDERING!!!!

THIS IS WHY I WANTED THE COIL HOOKED TO THE BATTERY ONLY...AND THE WIRE THAT TRAVELS BACK TO THE "ON POSITION" OF THE KEY COMPLETELY LOOSE FROM THE COIL/DISTRIBUTOR


------AGAIN!!!--YOU DID SAY IT STARTS (BUSTS OFF) WHILE IT IS CRANKING.....BUT WILL NOT REMAIN RUNNING WHEN YOU RELEASE THE KEY?????.....IS THIS 100% CORRECT INFO?

IN THAT SHORT PERIOD, DOES IT SEEM TO RUN WELL, OR IS IT BACKFIRING/ STAMMERING/ SKIPPING?


IF THIS IS THE CASE AND IT SEEMS TO RUN FINE---IT REALLY SEEMS LIKE THE COIL IS OK AND THE TIMING IS TOO

I'VE BEEN LOOKING AT THE '84-'86 WIRE DIAGRAMS

AND ALSO MY '79 DIAGRAM----SO FAR, THE ONLY CAPACITOR I SEE IS "CAPACITOR JUMPER" IN THE '79 IT IS A SHORT WIRE OFF OF THE POS SIDE OF THE COIL CONNECTOR (I THINK IT'S PURPOSE WAS TO CUT DOWN RADIO STATIC)

I'VE NOT SEEN THE INSTRUCTION SHEET YOU POSTED A FEW ANSWERS BACK---IT'S HARD TO MAKE ALL OF IT OUT

I'M GONNA SEND YOU A MESSAGE (TOP OF THE PAGE CLICK ON YOUR NAME, LOOK LEFT FOR MESSAGE CENTER) I'LL GIVE YOU MY EMAIL---IF YOU WOULD, "SCAN" THE COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS AND SEND THEM TO ME

AS FAR AS THE OTHER QUESTIONS I ASKED (1), (2), (3) WHAT ARE THE ANSWERS?

WHAT ABOUT A FUSE SEARCH--ANY OF 'EM BLOWN?

I KNOW THIS IS A PAIN......HANDS ON, MUCH OF THIS COULD BE DIAGNOSED IN 10-20 MINUTES AND WE WOULD HAVE ELIMINATED SO MANY POSSIBILITIES

THE BAD THING IS, WE CANNOT SEE WHAT KIND OF MODS WERE DONE IN 28 YEARS TIME OR SOMETHING CONNECTED WRONG, ETC

SOMETIMES A QUICK GLANCE AROUND AND SUDDENLY YOU SAY, "THERE IT IS RIGHT THERE!"

I'M NO FACTORY TRAINED FELLER---I HAVE HIGH SCHOOL AUTOMOTIVE SHOP (2 YRS)/ ELECTRICITY SHOP (1 YR)/ (METAL) MACHINE SHOP (2 YRS) IN MY EXPERIENCE (1978-1982), US ARMY AIRBORNE RANGER ('82-'87), 1-1/2 YEARS IN AN AUTOMOTIVE MACHINE SHOP/ ENGINE BALANCING, AND PLUMBING SINCE 1990

SO YES, YOU CAN CALL ME AN "EXPERIENCED DIYer"...NOT AMC FACTORY TRAINED GUY

ALL THE WHILE, I SORTA HUNG OUT WITH THE BIG KIDS WITH CARS FROM ABOUT AGE 10 AND UP AND STARTED PICKING UP ON HOW CARS WORK--THIS CONTINUED ON FOREVER, AND I HAVE BEEN "UP KEEPING" MY CJs, EVER SINCE I GOT MY 1ST. PRESENTLY HAVE #s 6 AND 7.....I HAVE NEVER OWNED A "CAR" FOR MYSELF AS AN EVERYDAY DRIVER

I HAVE MEGA EXPERIENCE, I HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY THRU EVERY PIECE OF MANY, WORKING ON MINE AND CJs FOR OTHER FOLKS......I'M THE GUY EVERYONE RUNS TO WITH THEIR CJ PROBLEMS

NOW DAYS, I DON'T DO IT "FOR THEM", I MAKE THEM LEARN AND DO IT THEMSELVES---USUALLY AT MY HOUSE WITH MY TOOLS!

MINE DO NOT EVER GO TO "SHOPS", EXCEPT FOR "WHEEL ALIGNMENTS"

WE WILL GET YOU FIGURED OUT! IT MAY TAKE SOME TIME AND I HOPE YOU ARE UNDERSTANDING THE STUFF I'M DISHING OUT

I NEED YOUR ANSWERS!

THE MEDIC

THIS IS WHY I WANTED THE COIL HOOKED TO THE BATTERY ONLY...AND THE WIRE THAT TRAVELS BACK TO THE "ON POSITION" OF THE KEY COMPLETELY LOOSE FROM THE COIL/DISTRIBUTOR ---This is what I did, took everything off the coil pos terminal and went direct from the battery. won't start.


------AGAIN!!!--YOU DID SAY IT STARTS (BUSTS OFF) WHILE IT IS CRANKING.....BUT WILL NOT REMAIN RUNNING WHEN YOU RELEASE THE KEY?????.....IS THIS 100% CORRECT INFO? I have tried it several times. It will crank and start, it is cold so it runs a need some fuel, so as long as I keep the key in the start position and give it some gas it revs up no problem, then dies as soon as I let go of the key. I haven't run it for more than about 5 seconds, but it goes.

IN THAT SHORT PERIOD, DOES IT SEEM TO RUN WELL, OR IS IT BACKFIRING/ STAMMERING/ SKIPPING? It needs a bit of fuel, but it usually does when cold. it runs though.


IF THIS IS THE CASE AND IT SEEMS TO RUN FINE---IT REALLY SEEMS LIKE THE COIL IS OK AND THE TIMING IS TOO---I think it is related to the ignition switch possibly. I may try to replace it tomorrow, but it looks a little challenging....I actualy think I may just buy a new one, connect it and see if I can use a screwdriver to start the thing rather than the rod from the key.



I'VE NOT SEEN THE INSTRUCTION SHEET YOU POSTED A FEW ANSWERS BACK---IT'S HARD TO MAKE ALL OF IT OUT

I'M GONNA SEND YOU A MESSAGE (TOP OF THE PAGE CLICK ON YOUR NAME, LOOK LEFT FOR MESSAGE CENTER) I'LL GIVE YOU MY EMAIL---IF YOU WOULD, "SCAN" THE COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS AND SEND THEM TO ME

AS FAR AS THE OTHER QUESTIONS I ASKED (1), (2), (3) WHAT ARE THE ANSWERS? See above post....1-no, 2-yes, 3 little play, nothing major.

WHAT ABOUT A FUSE SEARCH--ANY OF 'EM BLOWN? I have looked at all fuses I can find...I don't see any fuses that run in the ignition system. Under the dash there are fuses for horn, lights, etc....all of those systems work so i haven't pulled each one out, but all other fuses I can see are good).

I KNOW THIS IS A PAIN......HANDS ON, MUCH OF THIS COULD BE DIAGNOSED IN 10-20 MINUTES AND WE WOULD HAVE ELIMINATED SO MANY POSSIBILITIES

THE BAD THING IS, WE CANNOT SEE WHAT KIND OF MODS WERE DONE IN 28 YEARS TIME OR SOMETHING CONNECTED WRONG, ETC. the only mods I know of are the Nutter bypass (which bypasses the ECM which is all timing crap) and the MSD ignition (There is a quick disconnect that reportedly allows me to revert to the jeeps original ignition system by reconnecting a few plugs, I tried this and it didn't help at all, so I'm thinking the problem is before the ICM---I'm thinking ignition switch or some wiring crap under the dash).

SOMETIMES A QUICK GLANCE AROUND AND SUDDENLY YOU SAY, "THERE IT IS RIGHT THERE!" I've taken a glance around many times, from under/above/behind every location I can think to look I have. I've even done it in the dark with a headlamp to make me focus right where I'm looking. Can't see a thing wrong.








I NEED YOUR ANSWERS!

I STILL WANT YOU TO SCAN THE INSTRUCTIONS AND SEND THEM TO ME

THE MEDIC

I FIGURED IT OUT!!!!!!
It was a coil fuse! Despite me thinking I tested all the fuses! I hooked up the new ignition switch and that didn't fix the problem. So, I basically followed the wires from positive side of the coil back to the firewall and tested for continuity....that was intact. But there was no continuity from the firewall to the ignition switch...so after dissecting all under the dash and following the wire, I followed it to a simple coil fuse that was blown! I guess now the question is why did it blow? I'm guessing when I hit the bump something shorted for just a second and blew the fuse. I'm thinking I better carry a few extra fuses with me on the road and if this continues to happen I better do some more investigation!

WELL I'M SORRY THAT NONE OF US MENTIONED TO CHECK YOUR FUSES

I'M JUST GLAD YOU HAVE IT GOING AGAIN

PLEASE POST SOME PICS OF YOUR RIG...I LIKE TO SEE WHAT'S BEING WORKED ON

YOU DO AT LEAST NOW KNOW MORE ABOUT YOUR IGNITION SYSTEM!

LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK ABOUT THE ALBUMS I SENT.....I KNOW I SORTA OVERLOADED YOU WITH THEM, MAYBE SOMETHING IN 'EM WILL AID YOU LATER

WRITE DOWN MY ADDRESS IF YOU EVER HAVE OTHER QUESTIONS

FEEL FREE TO CONTINUE TO ADD ON TO THIS THREAD IN THE FUTURE, I WILL GET EMAIL NOTIFIED THAT THERE IS ACTIVITY ON IT NO MATTER HOW MUCH TIME PASSES BEFORE YOU ADD TO IT

THE MEDIC