WHAT PART OF THE COUNTRY ARE YOU IN?

DON'T BUY NOTHING YET...I MAY CAN HELP YOU IN THE FUNDAGE SAVING DEPT!

I'LL RESPOND IN AN HOUR OR SO, MAMA GOT ME DOIN' CHORES RIGHT NOW!

THE MEDIC

pacific NW.

except for the starter, i'm not buying anything yet; in fact, i won't even look at it until saturday. i'm still in the diagnostic phase.

I'M YOUR GUY....I HOPE!

SHE WON'T LEAVE ME ALONE YET.....HAD TO SNEAK IN HERE TO WRITE THIS!

BACK REAL SOON!

THE MEDIC

I'LL HELP YOU NO PROBLEM!

MY VIEWS ON STUFF, MAY NOT BE TO YOUR LIKING, BUT WE WILL GET YOU GOING!

I'LL GO AHEAD AND GET IT OUT OF THE WAY

THE ELECTRIC FAN........SOMETHING ELSE TO BREAKDOWN!......MAYBE NOT REALIZED....MESS UP MOTOR

I'M NOT SURE ABOUT YOUR FUEL SYSTEM.........I HOPE YOU RETAINED THE MECHANICAL PUMP.....SIMPLE, RELIABLE, STOPS WHEN THE ENGINE DOES, CHEAP, PROVIDES MORE THAN ENOUGH FUEL....EVEN FOR A 304 !

WHAT ARE YOU USING FOR REFERENCES TO WORK ON YOUR JEEP?

MANY TIMES, I MIGHT LINK YOU TO ANOTHER POST I ANSWERED.....SAVES ME A LOT OF HUNTING AND PECKING!

RIGHT NOW------WE NEED TO KNOW WHETHER YOUR ISSUE IS FUEL OR IGNITION

WHEN IT CUTS OFF...... IMMEDIATELY SQUIRTING A SHOT OF STATER FLUID DOWN THE CARB --- OR FOR "QUANTITY SAKE".......A TEASPOON FULL OF GAS DOWN THE CARB ----QUICKLY TRY TO START IT............WHAT HAPPENS?

I EVEN KEEP 2 OF 'EM ON BOARD.....JUST TO INSURE THE BULB IS NOT BURNED OUT, ON THE OTHER...........I LIKE "DEFAULT OPTIONS!"

I KEEP LOTS OF STUFF ON BOARD!......TAKES A LOT TO "STRAND MY BABIES"

SO I WANT YOU TO TELL ME IF YOU ARE SET UP "EXACTLY" LIKE THIS.......THE MINI GAUGE AND REGULATOR ARE OPTIONAL...............THE REST OF IT AIN'T !!!....SEE MY 1ST 2 PICS

I WILL MOSTLY USE MY 258 AS A "DEMONSTRATOR".......YOU WILL HAVE TO "ADAPT YOUR THINKING" TO YOUR ENGINE...........TUNING IS TUNING IS TUNING......PRETTY MUCH THE SAME PROCESS, NO MATTER WHICH ENGINE YOU HAVE!

HOOD BACK ON THE WINDSHIELD FRAME---OUTSIDE IN THE LIGHT--CAN YOU SEND ME A "LEFT SIDE" - "RIGHT SIDE"----- AND A STAND ON THE BUMPER TOP VIEW OF YOUR ENGINE WITH THE BREATHER REMOVED??? ........ONE OF YOUR TIMING MARKS?........OF COURSE, ONE OF YOUR BABY TOO!

ARE YOU CHECKED FOR EMISSIONS....IF SO, WHAT EXACTLY FOR OLDER STUFF?.....ARE YOU JUST EXEMPT?

IS YOUR WIRING MOSTLY ORIGINAL....ESPECIALLY IGNITION RELATED?

IS YOUR DISTRIBUTOR AND COIL LIKE WHAT CAME WITH IT ORIGINALLY ?

IF YOU CLICK ON MY AVATAR, YOU'LL FIND A LITTLE MORE INFO

I'VE MADE "MR. JEEP" AND "WILLY" A LITTLE MORE USER FRIENDLY, HERE AND THERE. ON MR. JEEP, MY HOLLEY 390, 4 BBL ON THE "OFFY" INTAKE........IF FOR EFFICIENCY, I GET ABOUT 18 MPGs WITH IT PROPERLY JETTED AND TUNED, AND GET REALLY GOOD POWER, IF I NEED IT TOO!

YOUR TURN........SOME OF MY CJ ANSWERS ARE OVER 100 RESPONSES LONG......I'M GAME, THIS IS "MY THING"

GIMME SOME ANSWERS---I'LL TRY TO MOVE ON THRU VACUUM LEAK STUFF, THEN INTO TIMING AND TUNING...AS WELL AS "CHECKING" TIMING STUFF THAT IS TAKEN FOR GRANTED

THE MEDIC

THE ELECTRIC FAN........SOMETHING ELSE TO BREAKDOWN!......MAYBE NOT REALIZED....MESS UP MOTOR

good point, but i couldn't find a fan shroud and i wanted to get it going. i'll have to search salvage for a clutch + fan + shroud.

I'M NOT SURE ABOUT YOUR FUEL SYSTEM.........I HOPE YOU RETAINED THE MECHANICAL PUMP.....SIMPLE, RELIABLE, STOPS WHEN THE ENGINE DOES, CHEAP, PROVIDES MORE THAN ENOUGH FUEL....EVEN FOR A 304 !

yes, i replaced it with another mechanical pump. it just took my 5 tries for the local parts shop to get me one that fit.

WHAT ARE YOU USING FOR REFERENCES TO WORK ON YOUR JEEP?

i have a hayes and a chilton manual.

WHEN IT CUTS OFF...... IMMEDIATELY SQUIRTING A SHOT OF STATER FLUID DOWN THE CARB --- OR FOR "QUANTITY SAKE".......A TEASPOON FULL OF GAS DOWN THE CARB ----QUICKLY TRY TO START IT............WHAT HAPPENS?

...............OR IMMEDIATELY CHECK FOR SPARK WHEN IT DIES.....I LIKE ONE OF THESE!

i'll let you know this weekend.

SO I WANT YOU TO TELL ME IF YOU ARE SET UP "EXACTLY" LIKE THIS.......THE MINI GAUGE AND REGULATOR ARE OPTIONAL...............THE REST OF IT AIN'T !!!....SEE MY 1ST 2 PICS

well, according to my manuals, the dual output filter was not installed on the 4 cyl models, so i don't have that. actually, there was no external in-line filter at all until i added one.

HOOD BACK ON THE WINDSHIELD FRAME---OUTSIDE IN THE LIGHT--CAN YOU SEND ME A "LEFT SIDE" - "RIGHT SIDE"----- AND A STAND ON THE BUMPER TOP VIEW OF YOUR ENGINE WITH THE BREATHER REMOVED??? ........ONE OF YOUR TIMING MARKS?........OF COURSE, ONE OF YOUR BABY TOO!

i'll try to get that tomorrow morning.

ARE YOU CHECKED FOR EMISSIONS....IF SO, WHAT EXACTLY FOR OLDER STUFF?.....ARE YOU JUST EXEMPT?

from the WA DOL: "Vehicles between five and twenty-five years old require testing every other year. " so i should be clear.

IS YOUR WIRING MOSTLY ORIGINAL....ESPECIALLY IGNITION RELATED?

yes.

IS YOUR DISTRIBUTOR AND COIL LIKE WHAT CAME WITH IT ORIGINALLY ?

yes.
_______________________
*wish i had a 258; seems like it would be about the perfect size for the CJ.

"THE STARTER"

I KNOW YOU PROBABLY DON'T HAVE THE STORE I HAVE IN MY AREA

YOU DO HAVE "O'REILLY'S"---THIS SORTA THING MAY WORK FOR YOU TOO, MAYBE NOT TO THE EXTENT "ADVANCE AUTO PARTS" SAVES ME LOTS OF $$$...BUR SAVING IS SAVING, RIGHT?

IN THIS LINK YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE HOW TO MAKE THIS SORTA THING WORK.....IT MAY TAKE A LITTLE HOMEWORK, BUT IT'S WORTH IT!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

I HAVE A FEW OTHER TRICKS WHEN ORDERING A PART FROM A COMPANY.....FOR INSTANCE, I WANTED 2 FUEL PUMPS FOR "WILLY", ONE TO BE A SPARE. JUST SORTA SURFING A COUPLE OF SITES, I FOUND THAT "OMIX-ADA" MADE THE PUMP I WANTED (WITH THE GLASS FUEL BOWL) AND I GOT THE PART NUMBER FROM A POPULAR JEEP STORE.....THIS STORE WANTED $80+ FOR IT!

I WENT TO "SHOPZILLA.COM" AND INSTALLED THE NUMBER IN THEIR SEARCH BOX (DESCRIPTIONS WORK TOO).....IT'LL PULL UP MEGA RESULTS----YOU CAN SEARCH "HIGH TO LOW"---"BEST MATCH"---"LOW TO HIGH"...........AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE YOU CAN INCREASE THE # OF RESULTS PER PAGE TO "80"..........THIS MAKES SORTING OUT THE TRASH EZer!.....SKIPPING PAGES, WILL SOMETIMES GET YOU INTO A CLOSE PRICE RANGE

I FOUND THE EXACT SAME PUMP AT "CSE OFFROAD" (NY) FOR $21 !!!.........I HAVE 2 NOW!

I GET ALL MOTIVATED WHEN I CAN AID A CJ----CAN'T WAIT FOR YOUR PICS, AND TEST RESULTS!

I'M IN SC, BEEN UP THERE TO FT.LEWIS SEVERAL TIMES, TRAINING WITH 2ND BATTALION, IN THE '80s, I WAS IN 1ST RANGER BATTALION IN SAVANNAH, GA.......HERE'S A FEW SHOTS OF MY MAN CAVE

YOU ARE RIGHT----MY 1ST HAD A 304 AND I'VE HAD 5--258s SINCE THEN........THE 258 IS THE BEST MATCHED POWER PLANT IN MY OPINION

I HAVE MANY MANUALS---THE BEST BEING THE PAPER 1979 AMC JEEP FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL---A LOT OF IT APPLIES TO OTHER YEARS----ANOTHER PIC OF MAYBE 1/2 OF MINE FOR JEEPS

THESE OTHERS, I HAVE TWO ARMY BUDDIES WHO ARE BOY SCOUT MASTERS, UP IN THE MOUNTAINS, I'M INVITED TO HELP OUT SOMETIMES........I TAKE MY "NELSOBAGO" TO CAMP OUT OF

THE MEDIC

pics!

one more of the charcoal can.

mister.wombat............VERY GOOD!

NOW LET'S TAKE THAT PESKY BREATHER OFF AND GET A COUPLE MORE!

ANY TEST RESULTS....WHEN IT'S DEAD???

THE MEDIC



THIS IS ONE THAT'S BEING BUILT BY A FELLER NAMED TOMMY.....360.....WAY TOO MUCH MOTOR!

more pictures incoming...
no test results yet - stay tuned for Saturday.

LOVELY.....I'LL LOOK THESE OVER, WHILE I WAIT

SEE YOU THEN!

THE MEDIC

update:
first job - new starter, no problems.

afterwards, i cranked it over and it fired up immediately (good news there).
i let it sit and idle and checked the gauges. 40 PSI oil pressure, 14-15V on the battery, and the temperature is slowing warming up. the idle was a bit high (1600 RPM), but i figured it was because the choke was on.

when it hit about 140°, i took it up the street and back. although the idle was fine, after about 1/4 throttle, it ran horribly. cutting out and no power.

so i drove back, let it idle and took some more measurements.
timing = 11°BTDC
vacuum at the manifold = 21 inHg (~10 PSI)

the idle did jump up when i opened up the vacuum line to access it for a measurement.

so now i let it get up to 180°, which is where it stabilized (more good news, the electric fan works). the idle is still sitting at 1600RPM, so i pulled the breather and it looks like the choke opened (see picture).

i took it up the street and back again, and it still runs horribly. anything past 1/4 throttle is just a mess.

i get back and try to work on the idle speed. after much time spent fiddling with a horribly placed set screw, i finally find a 9/32" wrench i can use to turn it 1/8 at a time...

when i start backing the screw out, i can hear it slowing down until we got to about 1100 RPM. after that, the idle stayed steady even when i backed the screw out more. i finally got it as far out as i could turn it without risking it falling out, but it's still idling at 1100 RPM.

at this point, it's been running for 20-30 minutes, so i decide to try one more trip up the street. as soon as i start out, it feels a lot stronger. i stepped on it and it actually moved! even chirped the tire a bit. shifted to second and stepped on the pedal again - feels really strong now (well, 151 c.i. strong); nothing like it was before.

i can't think of anything i've done except let it run. i'm pretty sure the idle adjustment didn't make it run better, but is it possible something was sticking inside the carb and the new gas finally flushed it out?

any ideas why it's idling so high?

if i didn't say so before, thanks for the taking the time to respond to this. i do appreciate it.

a couple more notes to add.

1) it fires up very quickly. i turned it on and off a few times hot and cold and it starts great.

2) once when i shut it off after idling for awhile (the engine was at temp), it dieseled. just enough to kick the engine over one more time, but it was really noticeable. it didn't happen other times.

OUR SITE IS UNDER RE-CONSTRUCTION....SOME STUFF AIN'T WORKIN' RIGHT......LIKE SOME PICS.......LINKS AIN'T HIGHLIGHTED (COPY AND PASTE THEM ON A NEW TAB AND THEY WILL WORK)

MAYBE REAL SOON IT WILL BE ALL FIXED AND YOU CAN SEE ANY MISSING PICS AND BE ABLE TO CLICK ON THE LINKS........STAY TUNED!

IF THIS IS A MANUAL TRANNY........LET ME KNOW IF IT AIN'T....THESE SPECS ARE DIFFERENT FOR AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY

LOOKS LIKE YOUR ENGINE SPECS ARE:

TIMING 10 DEGREES BTDC

IDLE SPEED IS 900 RPM...........(SEEMS HIGH.....750-800 WOULD BE MORE TO MY LIKING) IF IT IS IDLED ANY HIGHER THAN 900.......IT PROBABLY WILL DIESEL!

WHAT'S IDLE NOW?

I DON'T KNOW YOUR METHODS---SO I'LL SHOW YOU MINE

THIS POST WAS ANSWERED WHEN I WAS SORTA NEW ON HERE.......AND SORTA NEW ON A COMPUTER.........I USED MY JEEP AS A DEMONSTRATOR (I HOPE THE PICS WORK)........I HAD A DIFFERENT USER NAME (WHICH WAS SUGGESTED THAT I CHANGE IT!)

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

IF I CONFUSE YOU.....ASK QUESTIONS!!!

THE ANSWERS ARE FOR A 258 6 CYLINDER WITH A CARTER BBD CARB

PROCEDURES ARE EXACTLY THE SAME FOR YOU----JUST ADAPT FOR YOUR ENGINE

....................LET ME KNOW WHAT "MAKE'S IT ALL BETTER"!!!!

WAITIN' ON YOU

THE MEDIC

I JUST POSTED 3 PICS ON PREVIOUS ANSWER.......THEY ARE A NO SHOW!

THE MEDIC

just noticed my pictures didn't attach.

how far open should the automatic choke flap open? mine is almost completely closed when cold and cracked about 1/4" - 1/2" when warm. it never opens and stands straight up when idling.

YOU DID LOOK AT THIS????

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot


THE CHOKE........

I RECKON YOU KNOW HOW TO ADJUST IT.....JUST NOT WHERE TO

LET'S INSURE IT IS CLEAN----IF YOU HAVE A LOCAL "AUTOZONE"...."VALUE CRAFT" CARBURETOR CLEANER RUNS CIRCLES AROUND THE OTHERS.......ONE CAN WILL DO THE JOB OF 3 OF THE OTHER KIND

I PREFER A MANUAL CHOKE.....I LIKE TO BE IN CHARGE.....THIS ALSO USUALLY ELIMINATES A STICKING CHOKE (I HAVE PICS OF HOW TO INSTALL ONE....PICS AIN'T WORKING RIGHT NOW) IF INTERESTED LEMME KNOW, I'LL POST WHEN PICS WILL WORK AGAIN

...............BUT IF YOU MUST, THE WAY I ADJUST A AUTO CHOKE IS

WAIT TILL THE ENGINE IS STONE COLD

LOOSEN THE CHOKE COVER SCREWS

ACTIVATE THE THROTTLE (EITHER THE PEDAL OR DO IT AT THE CARB)-------HOLD IT OPEN THE WHOLE TIME

ROTATE THE CHOKE COVER, AS TO FIGURE OUT WHICH DIRECTION OPENS IT OR CLOSES IT

WITH THE THROTTLE HELD STILL OPEN

ROTATE THE COVER TILL THE BUTTERFLY LIGHTLY CLOSES----DO NOT KEEP GOING AND PUT TENSION ON IT

THEN TIGHTEN THE SCREWS ON THE COVER

IT'S BEEN A WHILE SINCE I'VE MESSED WITH A CARB LIKE YOURS, WE WILL ALSO NEED TO ADJUST THE "STEPS" SO THAT AT DIFFERENT OPENINGS THE RPMs GRADUALLY DROP, UNTIL WHEN FULLY OPEN

WHEN THE BUTTERFLY IS FULLY OPEN THE "STEPS" SHOULD NO LONGER BE IN PLAY----YOU ARE RUNNING ON "NORMAL CURB IDLE" ONLY

.................................DO YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT I MEAN?

REMIND ME TO FIND THE CORRECT RPM FOR THE BEGINNING STEP LATER!!!!

NOW THAT YOU ARE ADJUSTED, I'M PRETTY SURE YOUR STEP SETTINGS .......AND CHOKE OPENINGS WILL ONLY CHANGE WHEN:

TEMP RISES.........AND YOU ACTUATE THE PEDAL (THIS TURNS IT LOOSE TO OPEN) TAPPING THE PEDAL FROM TIME TO TIME (WHILE DRIVING) THE CHOKE SHOULD FULLY OPEN AND THE IDLE DECREASES DOWN TO CURB IDLE

WHEN YOU PUT HIM UP FOR THE NIGHT---THEN GO TO AWAKE HIM IN THE MORNING

........................CAREFULLY TAKE THE BREATHER OFF (WITHOUT TOUCHING THE THROTTLE) ......THE BUTTERFLY SHOULD BE OPEN (IF IT'S LIKE I THINK).........IT'S "COLD"........ACTIVATING THE THROTTLE SHOULD LET THE BUTTERFLY "SLAM SHUT" (YOU MAY HEAR THIS, WITHOUT TAKING THE BREATHER OFF, WHILE SITTING IN THE COCKPIT....READY TO GO

.........THE WARM UP PROCESS STARTS ALL OVER

DEPENDING ON THE TEMP, YOU MAY HAVE TO TWEAK THE COVER AND BUTTERFLY CLOSING TO GET IT JUST RIGHT


THE MEDIC

yep, i read that link, that's why i asked about the choke not opening fully. i can manually rotate it quite easily, but it seems like something is missing like a spring or whatever is supposed to hold it open.

i read your description, but i'm not sure i understand. choke cover? is this the plate?

i read those links some more and did some more work today. first thing i noticed is you recommend manifold vacuum instead of ported vacuum for the distributor... why? the manual says ported. i guess the difference is a lot of vacuum at idle, which will advance the spark. this will idle better?

i realized i was adjusting the wrong idle screw yesterday >< i was twisting the cold idle screw, which is why it wasn't making much difference to warm idle. i also realized that the EGR vacuum line was just hanging! i connected it up to manifold vacuum through a temp controlled valve, as that seemed to be how you described it. this finally dropped the idle down to about 900, but it's pretty rough.

i rechecked the timing at 900 RPM, and it's still within a degree or so of spec. next step is the carb mixture adjustments, i'm going to work through your steps, but i need to wait for the rain to stop...

I JUST SUBMITTED YOU ANOTHER NOVEL.....AN HOUR AND A HALF AGO

IT DID NOT COME THRU

I'LL TRY AGAIN WITH THE INFO

THE CHOKE COVER IS THE ROUND DEALEE THAT HAS SCREWS AROUND IT OR SOMETIMES HELD ON WITH RIVITS

HERE'S A LINK SHOWING A "MANUAL CHOKE" (MINE)----THE COVER IN IT LOOKS SORTA LIKE THE ORIGINAL.....EXCEPT THERE ARE NO WIRES OR A COILED SPRING.....ITS JUST SOMETHING THAT THE "MECHANICALS" CAN ROTATE IN, SO THAT THE "TANG" ON THE CARB CAN BE TURNED....USING A MANUAL CABLE........THIS LETS YOU SET THE CHOKE WHERE YOU WANT IT/ OPEN IT UP BEFORE TEMP SLOWLY DOES/ NO NEED FOR VOLTS (ARTIFICIAL HEAT TO OPEN IT)

PICS IN THIS ANSWER


https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1977-ford-f-150-same--2



THIS IS WHAT THE ORIGINAL COVER WOULD SORTA LOOK LIKE....NOTE THE CATCH ON THE OUTER COIL OF THE BI-METAL SPRING....IT GRABS THE "TANG" WHEN INSTALLED..........THEN TEMP OF THE SPRING CONTROLS MOVEMENT OF THE CHOKE.........INSURE SOMEONE DID NOT REASSEMBLE THE COVER WRONG......IT GRABS THE "TANG"......THE SPRING IS NOT DEFORMED OR BROKEN

ROTATING THE CAP WILL OPEN AND CLOSE THE BUTTERFLY FULLY IN BOTH DIRECTIONS....AS LONG AS YOU HOLD THE THROTTLE OPEN AT THE SAME TIME.....AND THE "FAST IDLE STEPS" ARE NOT IN THE WAY

THIS IS THE COVER OF AN AUTOMATIC CHOKE....DID A GOOGLE IMAGE SEARCH


https://www.2carpros.com/images/external/image008.jpg


IN THIS VIDEO---THIS IS THE SAME CARB USED ON LATE "80s JEEP CJs--------MANY DIFFERENT CARBS USE THE "FAST IDLE CAM" IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE CHOKE OPENINGS------THEY DON'T ALL LOOK OR WORK EXACTLY THE SAME


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=CeU5dH1snA8



AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CARB CLOSEST TO YOU YOU WILL SEE 2 SCREWS---THE CLOSEST SCREW IS "CURB IDLE" AND IS SET WHEN THE CHOKE AND STEPS ARE "OFF" OR CHOKE BUTTERFLY IS STANDING STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN (THE VIDEO IS TOO SHORT AND THE CHOKE AND FAST IDLE ARE STILL IN PLAY)

IF YOU WILL NOTICE THE OTHER SCREW (RIGHT BESIDE THE CURB IDLE SCREW) IT IS FURTHER AWAY..........IT'S TIP IS RIDING ON A CAM WITH NOTCHES MADE IN----AS THE JEEP GETS WARMER THE CHOKE STARTS STANDING UP----THE LINKAGE DROPS AND THE SCREW WILL CONTACT A DIFFERENT NOTCH (A LOWER FAST IDLE SPEED.....STILL HIGHER THAN CURB IDLE)---------WHEN YOU MOVE THE THROTTLE ("KICK IT DOWN" IS THE TERM)

FINALLY......THE CHOKE BUTTERFLY WILL STAND VERTICAL (OFF) THE CAM WILL DROP FULLY OUT OF THE WAY AND THE FURTHER SCREW WILL CONTACT NOTHING!!!----CHOKE AND IDLE STEPS ARE COMPLETELY DOING NOTHING NOW!

THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY AT OPERATING TEMP OR CLOSE......SEE YOUR TEMP GAUGE TO VERIFY

NOW YOU ADJUST CURB IDLE WITH THE CLOSEST SCREW----THIS WILL BE "IDLE" EVERY TIME YOUR ENGINE WARMS UP........AND YOU "KICK IT DOWN" ......WHEN YOU ARE DONE.... THE PEDAL DURING NORMAL DRIVING WILL "KICK IT DOWN"


https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1980-jeep-cj7--2



NOTICE THE LEFT SCREW IN MY 1ST PIC IN THIS POST IS "CURB IDLE"......THE ONE WITH THE SCREWDRIVER IN IT. IT IS CONTACTING IT'S "STOP" (THE TIP)

THE OTHER SCREW (RIGHT) IS ADJUSTED WHEN THE FAST IDLE CAM IS "ON" OR "WORKING" (WHEN IT'S WORKING THE LEFT SCREW IS NOT TOUCHING IT'S STOP) AT THE TOP OF THE CAM THE ENGINE IDLE IS FAST, LIKE ABOUT 2000 RPM. (I USUALLY SET THE TOP NOTCH, WHEN THE CHOKE "WOULD BE CLOSED", TO 1500 RPM....2000 RPM SEEMS TOO HIGH TO ME!)

LISTEN NOW!!!.......I DO THIS AFTER THE ENGINE IS WARM AND AT CURB IDLE.......I SLIGHTLY OPEN THE THROTTLE, I USE MY FINGER TO PUT THE FAST IDLE CAM BACK IN THE 1ST NOTCH....THEN LET GO OF THE THROTTLE.........THE CAM WILL STAY HERE.......TILL I KICK IT DOWN. I ADJUST THE FAST IDLE SCREW (ON THE RIGHT) USING MY TACH/ DWELL METER TO GET IT RIGHT........

............THEN I KICK IT DOWN!....NOW I'M BACK ON CURB IDLE (ADJUST IT WITH THE DWELL/ TACH)

IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SET THE FAST IDLE, ON A COLD ENGINE AND BE CONSISTENT!


AS IT WARMS UP, AND THE PEDAL IS MOVED, IT DROPS DOWN ON SHORTER AND SHORTER NOTCHES AND IDLE SPEED DECREASES AS THE BUTTERFLY GETS MORE AND MORE VERTICAL

FINALLY THE CHOKE IS "SATISFIED" WITH ENGINE WARMTH AND/ OR "ARTIFICIAL WARMTH" PROVIDED BY THE "12 VOLT HEATER" INSIDE THE CHOKE COVER.........THE FAST IDLE DROPS DOWN AND NO LONGER CONTROLS IDLE SPEED..................THE SCREW ON THE LEFT DOES!!!!!!


IF THE SITE WAS COOPERATING, THIS MIGHT BE EZer.......I WISH I COULD POST SOME OF MY PICS

IS THIS CRAP I'M SHOVELLING MAKING ANY SENSE????

THE MEDIC


LAST PICS I POSTED---I LOST MY WHOLE---BORING--- LONG ANSWER---I'M GONNA WAIT----AND COPY THIS ONE, THIS TIME....JUST IN CASE!

great post!! this helped a lot, and is was nice to see the choke in action in that video. i always avoided working on carbs when i was younger, and my lack of knowledge is coming back to bite me.

so, my choke is not behaving properly. you see the position of the choke in the BEGINNING of the video? mine stays just like that when it's warm, even after idling at 180° for 20 minutes. it never, ever opens up past that, even when i kick the throttle repeatedly.

i guess my choke cover then is the black plastic circular thing with a red wire running to it (you can see pictures in my earlier posts). where does that wire run?

i will take the cover off and see if the spring is even connected to the rod properly. i can also check for voltage on the wire. i think i need to get this figured out before i can set idle speeds since it won't kick down properly.

YOU DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO! YOUR PICS OF THE CHOKE AIN'T SHOWIN' FOR ME THE WIRE TO THE CHOKE COVER (HEATER INSIDE IT) NEEDS TO GO TO SOMETHING "HOT" ONLY WHEN THE KEY IS ON (OR JEEP RUNNING).......DEAD, WHEN IT'S OFF I DON'T WANT YOU CUTTING INTO STUFF UNDER THE HOOD!!!! LETS RUN A 14 GAUGE WIRE FROM THE FUSE BOX OUT THERE TO IT CRIMP A "SPADE" CONNECTOR ON THE END AND PLUG IT INTO THE FUSE BOX SEE THIS LINK USE THE "CRUISE"...."AC/COMP"....."A/C" FEMALE SOCKET FOR THE SPADE..................WITH A VOLTMETER OR TEST LIGHT.....INSURE IT COMES "ON" WHEN THE KEY IS ON....."OFF" WHEN THE KEY IS OFF ABOUT 2 INCHES FROM WHERE IT GOES IN TO THE FUSE BOXINSTALL A 10 AMP FUSE (USING 2 FEMALES INSULATED STAKE-ON CONNECTORS).............THIS IS JUST ADDED CIRCUIT PROTECTION......MAKE IT LOOK LIKE I DID MY "JUMPER WIRE" IN THIS LINK..................I BELIEVE A "10 AMP" WILL BE ADEQUATE....LET ME KNOW IF IT BLOWS, AFTER IT ALL INSTALLED SEE MY 15 AMP FUSE IN PIC 2.... (MY JUMPER'S FUSE PROTECTION) ON THIS PAGE https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1970-mercury-marquis-friend-marquis-having-trouble-starting-running-could/page/2 CONTINUE THRU THE FUSE AND GO TO THE CHOKE COVER--INSTALL A FEMALE STAKE-ON CONNECTOR AND HOOK TO THE SPADE ON THE CHOKE COVER NOW.....YOU SHOULD HAVE THIS..............STARTING AT THE FUSE BOX: A SPADE.......2 INCHES (OR SO) OF WIRE (14 GAUGE).........AN INSULATED FEMALE......A 10 AMP FUSE......ANOTHER INSULATED FEMALE..........4-5 FEET OF WIRE (14 GAUGE).......A FEMALE CONNECTOR...............................ONE END TO CHOKE.......THE FUSED END INTO THE FUSE BOX ..................YOUR VERY LAST STEP WILL BE TO ACTUALLY PLUG IT INTO THE FUSE BOX YOU ARE ACTIVATING THE THROTTLE WHEN YOU "TWIST" THE CHOKE COVER??? THE BUTTERFLY WON'T FULLY STAND VERTICAL? SOMEBODY DON'T HAVE THE "STEP SCREW" RUN ALL THE WAY IN......SO THAT IT'S ALWAYS IDLED TOO HIGH....AND WON'T DROP DOWN TO CURB IDLE? MAYBE THE LINKAGE RODS HAVE BEEN REMOVED AND PUT BACK ON WRONG? THERE ARE 3 VIEWS OF THIS CARB----ENLARGE IT SEE IF YOU CAN SEE THE LINKAGES TO THE CHOKE...COMPARE WITH YOURS http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Autoline-Carburetor/1981-Jeep-CJ7/_/N-ilgjhZ8vd1l?itemIdentifier=56549_0_0_ I HOPE YOU CAN SEE WHAT'S WRONG....AND IT WAS SOMETHING STUPID! I STILL HAVE MORE INFO---IF YOU CAN'T GET IT TO OPEN FULLY.........TRYIN' NOT TO OVERWHELM YOU! SORRY ABOUT THE SITE MALFUNCTION KEEP ME POSTED.....I'M EATIN' THIS UP!!! THE MEDIC

LOOKS LIKE PART OF THAT DID NOT COME THRU----I'M GLAD I COPIED IT!!!!

HERE'S THE LAST ANSWER.....ALL OVER AGAIN!




YOU DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO!

YOUR PICS OF THE CHOKE AIN'T SHOWIN' FOR ME

THE WIRE TO THE CHOKE COVER (HEATER INSIDE IT) NEEDS TO GO TO SOMETHING "HOT" ONLY WHEN THE KEY IS ON (OR JEEP RUNNING).......DEAD, WHEN IT'S OFF

I DON'T WANT YOU CUTTING INTO STUFF UNDER THE HOOD!!!!

LETS RUN A 14 GAUGE WIRE FROM THE FUSE BOX OUT THERE TO IT

CRIMP A "SPADE" CONNECTOR ON THE END AND PLUG IT INTO THE FUSE BOX

USE THE "CRUISE"...."AC/COMP"....."A/C" FEMALE SOCKET FOR THE SPADE..................WITH A VOLTMETER OR TEST LIGHT.....INSURE IT COMES "ON" WHEN THE KEY IS ON....."OFF" WHEN THE KEY IS OFF

ABOUT 2 INCHES FROM WHERE IT GOES IN TO THE FUSE BOX-----INSTALL A 10 AMP FUSE (USING 2 FEMALES INSULATED STAKE-ON CONNECTORS).............THIS IS JUST ADDED CIRCUIT PROTECTION......MAKE IT LOOK LIKE I DID MY "JUMPER WIRE" IN THIS LINK..................I BELIEVE A "10 AMP" WILL BE ADEQUATE....LET ME KNOW IF IT BLOWS, AFTER IT ALL INSTALLED

SEE MY 15 AMP FUSE IN PIC 2.... (MY JUMPER'S FUSE PROTECTION) ON THIS PAGE

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1970-mercury-marquis-friend-marquis-having-trouble-starting-running-could/page/2

CONTINUE THRU THE FUSE AND GO TO THE CHOKE COVER--INSTALL A FEMALE STAKE-ON CONNECTOR AND HOOK TO THE SPADE ON THE CHOKE COVER

NOW.....YOU SHOULD HAVE THIS..............STARTING AT THE FUSE BOX:

A SPADE.......2 INCHES (OR SO) OF WIRE (14 GAUGE).........AN INSULATED FEMALE......A 10 AMP FUSE......ANOTHER INSULATED FEMALE..........4-5 FEET OF WIRE (14 GAUGE).......A FEMALE CONNECTOR...............................ONE END TO CHOKE.......THE FUSED END INTO THE FUSE BOX

..................YOUR VERY LAST STEP WILL BE TO ACTUALLY PLUG IT INTO THE FUSE BOX



YOU ARE ACTIVATING THE THROTTLE WHEN YOU "TWIST" THE CHOKE COVER???

THE BUTTERFLY WON'T FULLY STAND VERTICAL?


SOMEBODY DON'T HAVE THE "STEP SCREW" RUN ALL THE WAY IN......SO THAT IT'S ALWAYS IDLED TOO HIGH....AND WON'T DROP DOWN TO CURB IDLE?


MAYBE THE LINKAGE RODS HAVE BEEN REMOVED AND PUT BACK ON WRONG?

THERE ARE 3 VIEWS OF THIS CARB----ENLARGE IT SEE IF YOU CAN SEE THE LINKAGES TO THE CHOKE...COMPARE WITH YOURS

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Autoline-Carburetor/1981-Jeep-CJ7/_/N-ilgjhZ8vd1l?itemIdentifier=56549_0_0_

I HOPE YOU CAN SEE WHAT'S WRONG....AND IT WAS SOMETHING STUPID!

I STILL HAVE MORE INFO---IF YOU CAN'T GET IT TO OPEN FULLY.........TRYIN' NOT TO OVERWHELM YOU!

SORRY ABOUT THE SITE MALFUNCTION

KEEP ME POSTED.....I'M EATIN' THIS UP!!!

THE MEDIC

good call on the choke cover wire!!

electrical problems are right up my alley (EE by trade), so this one was easy to debug. I checked the voltage at the cover and got nothing, so I started tracing it back. to make a long story short, all the components in the path were good, but some of the connections were bad/corroded. after cleaning everything up, I get power to the choke now when the engine is running.

so now the choke opens right up and stands vertical. the fast idle cam is now totally out of the way when I kick the throttle down.

took it for another spin down the street, and we're running strong again. not perfect, but not choking and dying like it used to.

here's where I am now: I come back and park it and let it idle. it's steady around 1100RPM, so I tried to adjust it down, but I can't. I did find the CORRECT idle screw, and I can increase the idle by turning it in, but I can only decrease down to about 1100, then the curb idle screw disengages. I triple-checked and the fast idle cam is DEFINITELY disengaged completely. sidenote: it was idling at 900RPM before I drove up the street and back...

i'm going to try adjusting the mixture next, but i'm not sure how to proceed with such a fast idle. it appears there is a single mixture "screw", though it's not actually a screw but a knob to turn. what else could be keeping the idle so high?

second problem: my old dwell meter died, and the guy at o'reilly's has never heard of a dwell meter ><
I think I can solve that problem though.

A PAWN SHOP IS A GOOD PLACE TO PICK UP A "DINASAUR" METER.........THEY MAY HAVE NO CLUE WHAT IT IS EITHER......MIGHT BE ABLE TO TALK 'EM DOWN!

IT WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO ADJUST THE MIX WITH SUCH A HIGH IDLE

.......THAT HIGH, AND YOU ARE RUNNING OFF OF THE MAIN CIRCUIT (THE VENTURIES).......NOT THE IDLE CIRCUIT

HERE'S SOME THINGS TO CHECK...........VACUUM LEAKS

.............PULL OFF THE LINES GOING TO EACH VACUUM PORT, THEN CAO THE PORT.........ONE AT A TIME......PUT IT BACK, BEFORE YOU PULL OFF THE NEXT ONE

............LEAVE THE PCV LINE ALONE......UNLESS IT'S NASTIFIED....THEN REPLACE IT!

ONCE YOU PULL OFF THE RIGHT LINE AND CAP IT, AND THE ENGINE SLOWS DOWN-----PUT IT BACK ON---AND TRACE IT OUT-----TILL YOU FIND THE LEAK, MAY BE A HOSE...A FITTING...AN APPLIANCE LEAKING

IF YOU HAVE POWER BRAKES---START WITH THAT LINE, THE DIAPHRAGM IN THE BOOSTER MAY HAVE A HOLE IN IT........SOMETIMES THIS IS DETECTABLE, BY LISTENING TO THE ENGINE SPEED WHILE GETTING ON AND OFF OF THE BRAKES.....IF NOT...CAP THAT PORT FOR A TEST
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LOOK AT THE THROTTLE ON THE CARB, IS SOMETHING PREVENTING IT FROM CLOSING ON DOWN?
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.CAN YOU GENTLY TWIST THE THROTTLE ARM AND MAKE IT CLOSE?....MAYBE YOU NEED TO OIL THE SHAFT

HAS SOMEONE "MAN-HANDLED" THE THROTTLE, OVER TWISTED IT, MAYBE BENT THE SHAFT OR DEFORMED THE BUTTERFLY (DEEP IN THE THROAT).........(TIME FOR ANOTHER CARB)

MAYBE IT'S DIRTY---OPEN IT BY HAND AND BLAST SOME CARB CLEANER ON BOTH SIDES OF THE BUTTERFLY AND CARB THROAT

("VALUE KRAFT" OR "VALUE CRAFT" CARBURETOR CLEANER FOUND AT "AUTOZONE" IS THE VERY BEST I HAVE FOUND.....RUNS CIRCLES AROUND THE OTHERS!)

BLAST IT----WAIT 5 MINUTES---BLAST IT AGAIN!

THIS IS FUN!!!!

LEMME KNOW ANY RESULTS.......GLAD YOU GOT FAST IDLE CAM DOWN-----ARE YOU POSITIVE IT IS NOT HOLDING THE THROTTLE OPEN AT ALL???

THE MEDIC

THE 1ST HALF OF THAT GOT LOST!!!


I SAID

WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING

TAKE THE VACUUM LINES OFF OF THEIR PORT AND CAP THE PORT (VACUUM CAP OR A SHORT PIECE OF HOSE WITH A 1/4 BOLT IN IT)

DO THIS "ONE PORT AT A TIME"

REPLACE EACH LINE, BACK WHERE IT WAS----BEFORE YOU DO THE NEXT ONE

HOPEFULLY YOU WILL RUN INTO ONE THAT WHEN IT IS CAPPED----THE ENGINE RPM WILL SLOW DOWN

.............HOOK IT BACK UP AND TRACE IT OUT---WHERE EVER IT TEEs---GOES INTO A FIXTURE---ETC

NOTE:

THE PCV IS A "CONTROLLED VACUUM LEAK"-----NO NEED TO MESS WITH IT, UNLESS IT'S LINE IS IN TERRIBLE SHAPE OR SPLIT (REPLACE THE LINE)..............REMOVING AND CAPPING THE PCV VACUUM PORT WILL DEFINITELY SLOW THE ENGINE DOWN ------- THAT'S "NOT" OUR LINE THAT IS LEAKING!....IT'S SOMEWHERE ELSE!

THIS IS ABOUT WHERE THE ANSWER ABOVE SHOULD TAKE OVER!!!!

THE MEDIC