'78 CJ7 won't turn over

I'm not sure how to delete my question, but it turned out to be a bad battery. I guess I was looking for a big issue since the CJ is older than me! Glad it was a simple fix :)

Glad you got it going, I was going to tell you the Battery!

COME ON BACK ANYTIME, FOR ANY OTHER ISSUES YOU MAY HAVE

EXPLORE THE CJ 5 AND CJ 7 2CARPRO FORUMS

I CAN ASSIST YOU IN LOTS OF FIXES AND TUNING HIM UP

DO YOU HAVE A REPAIR MANUAL?

THE MEDIC

Thanks! I have lots of stuff I want to do with it...replacing belts, new beefy air filter, among other things. I'm just glad I don't have to worry about him starting up now. No repair manual...was looking online for one today but didn't come up with anything. any recommendations for manuals?

Can't wait to get started. I know I'll have questions when I get going on these projects. It's nice to know I have a resource that's very helpful available to me! :)

OK HERE'S YOUR 1ST GIFT...AS LONG AS THEY CONTINUE TO "RUN" IT

ACTUALLY IT'S FROM "MORRIS", IT GETS OVERLOOKED, BUT IT IS THE VERY BEST MANUAL YOU CAN HAVE FOR NOW.

THESE ARE THE ACTUAL JEEP FACTORY MANUALS......A PAPER FACTORY MANUAL WOULD BE BEST, THEY ARE HARD TO FIND AND EXPENSIVE....I ACCIDENTALLY GOT MY '79 MANUAL YEARS AGO AND WISH I HAD CARED FOR IT BETTER


REMEMBER THAT THE TRUCKS/CHEROKEE ARE INCLUDED IN THE READING ALONG WITH CJs....MAKE SURE YOU ARE READING THE "CJ PART"!

OTHERWISE YOU'LL BE FIXING A CHEROKEE!

THE MEDIC

AWESOME!!!! Are there any resources for original parts or will I end up piecing together things I need from other vehicles? Things I want are a door handle, passenger side mirror, and the knobs for the window handles.

I see the same website has a ton of parts...so excited...looks like I found a source for all my fun money to go to!

nice going CJ good stuff

ROGER!

GLAD TO SEE THE "BUBBLING"!

THERE ARE SO MANY AFTERMARKET PARTS AVAILABLE---THE ONLY ORIGINAL STUFF YOU REALLY NEED IS THE ENGINE AND ENTIRE DRIVE TRAIN (MOST OF THE INNARDS ARE AVAILABLE AFTERMARKET)

I ALSO GET SOME OF MY STUFF FROM oconeeoffroad.com ,AND MANY OTHER PLACES TOO

BEING EXPERIENCED WITH CJs SINCE 1981 (WHEN I STARTED DRIVING) I HAVE HAD 7 TOTAL AND NEVER HAD ANYTHING ELSE, YOU SORTA GET THE KNACK FOR WHAT IS A QUALITY DURABLE PART AND WHAT IS NOT SO GOOD!

I STILL HAVE 6 & 7 WHICH I'VE HAD SINCE THE EARLY 90s (YOU TAKE CARE OF 'EM MORE AS YOU GET OLDER).....YOU ALSO ARE SORTA ABLE TO DIAGNOSE AND MAKE A REPAIR MORE EZily.

I WISH I HAD CAUGHT YOU BEFORE YOU GOT YOUR BATTERY...I WAS AT WORK

THIS IS THE "ONLY" WAY (METHOD) TO PURCHASE ANYTHING----SEE THIS ANSWER ON July 16, 2012, IT STARTS OUT """AS FAR AS I KNOW THEY HAVE NOT SOLD THAT JEEP YET"""

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1985-jeep-cj7-inconsistent-curb-idle-low-power-hi-rpms

USE THIS METHOD TO PURCHASE...PICK UP AT STORE WHENEVER POSSIBLE (SAVES ON SHIPPING--SEE WHAT YOU GET, BEFORE YOU ACCEPT IT)

SEE MY ANSWER ON May 23, 2012--AT THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1985-jeep-cj7-6cyl-258-ci-that-through-ingnition-modules-they-cookies

MY LINKING SPEEDS THINGS UP, AS I AM A SLOW HUNT AND PECKER...I MAY HAVE ALREADY EXPLAINED A PROCESS TO ANOTHER POST (WHY RE-WRITE IT?)

SEND PICS OF YOUR RIG, LIKE SEVERAL OF THE JEEP AND ENGINE COMPARTMENT

THE MEDIC

Everything I order online will have to be lightweight. Since we live in Panama, it's a little bit harder to find things in store here and costs $6/pound to ship in from the states and import fees on values over $50 will really increase cost. Hopefully I can find the heavier items down here in the tropics.

I miss big box stores like Advanced Autoparts that have all their deals because we really don't have anything like that here. We didn't buy another battery, although the hubs will be getting one tomorrow morning. We just took a battery out of another Jeep we have to see if it would work since we knew that the other Jeep's battery worked for sure.

Good to know about the aftermarket stuff. I thought that would be hard to find, especially on a '78 CJ7...and my wish list grows...shifter boots, door seals...hmmm...

Hopefully pics will come tomorrow...it's been raining ALL day, but hey, that's rainy season for ya :p

STAYED AT FT. SHERMAN ON THREE DIFFERENT OCCASIONS....MOSTLY IN THE "TROPICAL WOODS" WHEN I WAS IN 'BATTALION..... CAUGHT ME A KUDAMUNDE IN A "TWITCH-UP" USING NASTY OLE C-RATION SPAGHETTI THE LAST TIME I WAS THERE.....TOTALLY UNINTENTIONAL, WE HAD A HECK OF A TIME CUTTING HIM LOOSE!

JUST REPLY BACK TO THIS POST IF YOU NEED MORE ASSISTANCE, I WILL GET AN EMAIL ALERT

THANKS FOR COMING TO 2CARPROS

THE MEDIC

Look how far we,ve come from a dead battery! Arent you glad you didnt just delete to post?

WHEN YOU OWN A SPECIAL KINDA VEHICLE....YOU GET A SPECIAL KINDA TREATMENT!

THEY PROBABLY CALL HIM UP DURING AN EMERGENCY.....LIKE WHEN THE "MULES" ARE ALL TORN UP AT THE LOCKS AND THEY GOTTA PULL SOMETHING HEAVY THRU THERE



THE MEDIC

okie dokie...so we went, picked up another battery, stuck it in the cj and now it just turns and turns and won't turn on! we stuck the other battery from the other jeep in to see if that battery still worked (making sure we didn't buy a bum battery) and that one didn't work either. why would the cj turn on after changing the battery the other day and not now? what could be the problem? :(

GOT A VOLTMETER?

YOU WILL ALWAYS NEED ONE!

LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE AT POSITIVE COIL TERMINAL WITH THE "KEY ON"

WHERE'S THEM PICS????

THIS IS PROBABLY YOUR PROBLEM!!!!!---CHECK THIS 1ST--BEFORE YOU CONTINUE!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults



ARE YOU HOOKED UP LIKE THIS ON THE SOLENOID? A-B-C-D LABEL THE TERMINALS--------1-6 ARE THE WIRES

1) POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE

2) CABLE TO STARTER

THESE MAY BE SWAPPED OPPOSITE ON YOURS (1&2).....IT'S BEST TO RIG IT LIKE I HAVE IT (THIS AIDS IN USING A SCREWDRIVER TO "REMOTE" TURN IT OVER)

3) AND 4) AND OTHERS----THIS IS IGN WIRES AND ALL ACCESSORIES...THEY STACK AGAINST THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE (WHEREVER YOU PUT THE POSITIVE CABLE)

5) "S" WIRE IS "HOT" (12V) ONLY WHEN YOUR KEY IS IN THE "START POSITION"......THIS 12 VOLTS INTRODUCED INTO THE TERMINAL MAKES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET WORK TO CONNECT "1" AND "2" WHICH MAKES THE STARTER TURN OVER

6) THIS IS "I" TERMINAL OR WIRE----THIS TERMINAL BECOMES ENERGIZED WITH FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE WHEN THE SOLENOID GETS ENERGIZED-----THIS GIVES THE COIL A "BOOST" WHILE THE ENGINE IS TURNING OVER (AS THE STARTER IS "STEALING" THE POWER THAT NORMALLY WOULD BE FEEDING THE COIL (ON POSITION OF THE KEY)-----ONCE THE ENGINE "BUSTS OFF" AND IS RUNNING, THEN YOU RELEASE THE KEY AND "S" AND "I" SORTA DIE OUT----THE COIL THEN RUNS OFF OF THE REDUCED VOLTAGE PROVIDED FROM THE "ON" POSITION OF THE KEY

JUST FOR YOUR INFO---WHEN "I" TERMINAL "DIES" (BATTERY FULL VOLTS)--- THE "I" WIRE WILL NOW SHOW THE REDUCED VOLTAGE THAT IS NOW FEEDING THE COIL (MINE IS A LITTLE OVER 7 VOLTS)

JUST FOR GIGGLES--LET'S DUMP A COUPLE OF "SODA TOP-FULS" (DRINK CAP-FULS) OF GAS DOWN THE CARB AND SEE IF IT WANTS TO START UP----WHAT I'M TRYING TO CONVEY IS...JUST A LITTLE FUEL, NOT A BUNCH!

REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP, PLACE IT OUT OF THE WAY OF THE ROTOR--CRANK IT OVER----DOES THE ROTOR BUTTON TURN?

HAVE YOU REMOVED THE DISTRIBUTOR BY CHANCE? (DON'T, NOT YET ANYWAY!)

SEND BACK ALL OF YOUR FINDINGS....I HAVE LOTS MORE STUFF, SHOULD IF WE NEED TO GO THERE!

THE MEDIC

the second we drip some gas into the carborator, the jeep cranks. the new fuel pump that was put in is electric and there was a new fuel line installed as well. it sounds like the pump comes on when i stick the key in and turn it (but not turning the engine on)

DOES THE JEEP STILL HAVE THE ORIGINAL 2 BBL CARBURETOR?

THE ELECTRIC PUMP IS A BAD IDEA IN MY EYES

WHAT KINDA PRESSURE DOES THAT PUMP PUT OUT?

YOUR CARB REALLY NEEDS LESS THAN 5 PSI TO RUN---ANY MORE COULD DAMAGE THE NEEDLE AND SEAT OR OVERPOWER THE FLOAT

BELOW IS HOW MINE IS SET UP---THE RETURN LINE IS A "MUST" TO KEEP THE FUEL SORTA REGULATED AWAY (BYPASSING) FROM THE CARB WHEN TOO MUCH PRESSURE IS PRESENT

I REALLY DO NOT NEED THE REGULATOR OR THE MINI GAUGE---BUT THEY ARE COOL!.....AND I CAN MONITOR AND FINE ADJUST THE PRESSURE GOING DIRECTLY INTO THE CARB

IF YOU ARE USING A ELECTRIC PUMP IT NEEDS TO BE A LOW PRESSURE TYPE

THE ORIGINAL MECHANICAL PUMP IS VERY RELIABLE---AND INEXPENSIVE

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_mechanical-fuel-pump-airtex_5404002-p?searchTerm=fuel+pump

MY PICS ARE OF MY 6 CYLINDER-----THE SET UP IS EXACTLY THE SAME FOR A 8 CYLINDER

IS YOURS LIKE THIS?

HAVE YOU CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER?

THE MEDIC

fuel pump went out...don't have voltage meter, but do have car battery charger and when I hook up that, nada. I think it actually shorted out the battery that was in there before.

what would cause a brand new fuel pump to go out like that? could it be all the corroded cables? should I change out that cable? (not looking forward to getting into that cruddy old harness just yet...I wanted to do it all at once so I could do it right and do it purdy)

oh...i tested it by taking the fuel pump out and connecting it directly to car battery and even car battery charger

SORTA STILL NO ANSWER REGARDING THE ORIGINAL FUEL FILTER WITH 1 INLET AND 2 OUTLETS

IS IT ALL STILL CONNECTED LIKE ORIGINAL, WITH THE 12 O'CLOCK (1/4 INCH OUTLET OF THE FILTER RETURNING ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE FUEL TANK?

IS THE PRESSURE THAT THE PUMP GENERATES WRITTEN ON IT---OR COULD YOU SEARCH FOR IT ON THE "NET" AND FIND OUT WHAT THE RATING IS/WAS!?

I WANT YOU TO READ "REVIEWS" ON THE EVIL LITTLE DEMONS---SCROLL DOWN THEY ARE AT THE BOTTOM---READ THEM IN THIS LINK

I THINK THE BIGGEST DOWNFALL OF THIS TYPE IS THEY DO NOT GET COOLED VERY WELL

MECHANICAL?

THE MEDIC

I'll be working on other stuff today...rain keeps cutting me short :(

Finally, a beautiful morning! Here's a pic of my CJ looking all tough under the palm trees lining our driveway. I'll be working on the fuel pump problem today and following the advice above!

Okay, so how do I tell the PSI for the pump? It says it's a 12 volt electronic fuel pump. I don't see a return line and the stuff is running under the car, not near the engine. I took out the fuel pump, that's why my hand is in the picture, to show where the electronic pump was mounted.

Only the electronic component looks new. The leads were tied into the existing wiring. Well, the positive lead was tied into the existing positive line and then the the negative was grounded to the frame instead of to the negative on the battery.

Wondering if I should just run the leads properly to see if it will work. Kind of wondering since the negative was tied to the frame and the positive was tied to the battery, if that would've caused the battery and electric fuel pump to short. Anyway, pics below of how my CJ came delivered to me.

So, first pic is of where the fuel pump was (next to the rear passenger wheel), second is where the "return line should be (it's on the frame near the passenger door), third is the carborator in case I missed something there. (Yes, I know that's a crappy looking air filter...that was just to see if I couldn't start up because of evaporation since the CJ was delivered without a filter at all)

WELL YOUR WIPERS SORTA LOOK.....BROKEN!

BETTER USE SOME "RAIN-X" ON THE GLASS TILL YOU CAN GET 'EM FIXED

YOUR JEEP LOOKS NICE---MY 2ND ONE WAS THAT "ROOT BEERY COLOR" TOO---LOOKS LIKE YOU'D LOSE THEM DOORS DOWN THERE IN THE HEAT!

KEEP US POSTED OR HOLLER IF YOU NEED ASSISTANCE

MORE PICS WOULD BE NICE, ESPECIALLY WELL LIT ONES UNDER THE HOOD

WHAT'S THE PRICE OF GAS DOWN THERE PER GALLON?

DO YOU HAVE BASIC TUNE UP TOOLS?

THE MEDIC

MISSING YOUR OIL FILLER CAP?

THE ONLY WAY I SEE THAT YOU ARE GONNA FIND THE PRESSURE RATING OF THAT PUMP IS TO RESEARCH IT'S MANUFACTURER AND MODEL NUMBER ON THE "WEB" (SEND INFO TO ME AND I'LL TRY)

YOU CAN TEST IT WITH A GAUGE....THAT'S GONNA TELL YOU WHAT IT IS NOW, NOT NECESSARILY WHAT IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE

YOUR CARBURETOR SHOULD NOT EXCEED FACTORY SPECS, WHICH ARE BETWEEN 5 - 5.6 PSI (I JUST LOOKED IT UP IN THE "KNOWLEDGE BASE"....1977 FUEL CARBURETION SECTION FOR A V-8)

YOUR RETURN LINE IS MOST LIKELY RUNNING BETWEEN THE DRIVERS FENDER AND THE STEERING SHAFT ABOUT MIDWAY --- IT MAY BE CUT LOOSE OR PLUGGED OFF FROM PREVIOUS OWNERS

I HAVE REDONE MY LINES TO MAKE THEM NEATER--THE RETURN IS IN THE SAME PLACE AS IT ALWAYS WAS...IT HUGS THE FRAME ON IT'S WAY BACK TO THE TANK

I MUST GO TO WORK SOON---I'LL BE BACK ON HERE ABOUT 2200 HRS EASTERN

HERE'S SOME PICS I MADE IN THE PAST--I HAVE A 6 CYLINDER--I'LL TAKE MORE IF NEEDED

THE MEDIC

Quick question...i've hooked up the pump directly to the battery and I don't hear the motor start in the pump. Shall I go get another fuel pump? This one doesn't have a part number, who makes it, nothing! I'll get some more picks up too. The rain clouds are coming again so after it's done raining I'll post them.

Gas is about $3.50-$3.85/gallon right now. They're switching to liters in December (the whole country that is). Maybe it's a way to sucker us into spending a little bit more per gallon?

There's no plug on the oil...that's correct. Need to get one of those too. And wipers...it has none! LOL! I have lots of little stuff to do :)

We didn't move here with any of my tools so the hubs has graciously buying me stuff everytime we head to town!

STILL WANNA GO ELECTRIC--OR GO BACK TO THE ORIGINAL MECHANICAL PUMP????

IT DOES SOUND LIKE THE PUMP IS SHOT

THE MEDIC

this one looks most like it (i put the link to the picture below). if the my CJ originally came with a mechanical pump, I'm happy to put one back in. Is it any more difficult to install the mechanical over the electronic fuel pump?

could it have been a bad fuel pump to begin with and have actually shorted out the other battery that was in there originally? Remember how I was saying I originally grabbed a battery out of my other Jeep before buying a new battery? The battery from the other Jeep isn't working now. Seems a little weird to me.

MINE IS A 6 CYLINDER, I HAVE MORE ROOM, AND IT'S ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ENGINE.

MY PUMP IS ALMOST IDENTICAL TO AN 8 CYLINDER'S, I CAN CHANGE MY FUEL PUMP IN LESS THAN 5 MINUTES.....JUST GUESSING MAYBE LESS THAN 10 ON A 304

THIS PIC IS OF A 360 GOING INTO A FULL RESTORATION---ALMOST THE SAME AS YOUR 304, AS FAR AS FUEL PUMP LOCATION

YOUR "HOLE" IS PROBABLY BLOCKED OFF WITH A PLATE, TO KEEP IN YOUR OIL...REMOVE IT, INSTALL THE PUMP IN IT'S PLACE

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fuel-Pump-Block-Off-Plate-Perf/_/N-8ve05?filterByKeyWord=FUEL+PUMP+PLATE&fromString=search

I'VE BEEN BUSY ALL DAY, SORRY I TOOK SO LONG TO RESPOND

THE MEDIC

SORRY--LOWER EXPLANATION IN PIC---THIS LINE COMES FROM THE FUEL TANK

THE ONE OUT OF THE TOP OF THE PUMP GOES TO THE FUEL FILTER--RETURN LINE--CARB

THE MEDIC

The autoparts place didn't have the mechanical pump I need but said they will order it for me. In the meantime, could I put another electrical fuel pump? I'm dying to strut his stuff on the beach. Is there a way to test the voltage regulator to see if it's still working properly?

If it's a bad idea, I guess I'll try to wait as patiently as possible until they get the fuel pump in.

YOU CAN GO WITH THE ELECTRIC PUMP IF YOU WANT

I WOULD NOT USE AN ELECTRIC UNLESS IT WERE A LOW PRESSURE TYPE.....AND

......YOU ARE RIGGED UP WITH THE FUEL FILTER W/ RETURN BACK TO THE TANK

AROUND 5 PSI SHOULD REACH THE CARB....MORE MAY DAMAGE IT

WITH EITHER TYPE PUMP---YOU STILL NEED TO BE RIGGED UP LIKE IN MY PICS

YOURS BEING A '78 MODEL----YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO "PUNCH IT IN" AS A 1977

NOT TRYING TO SELL MYSELF SHORT......THAT MANUAL IS THE "FACTORY LAW BOOK/BIBLE"......IT EXPLAINS EVERYTHING FOR EVERY SYSTEM, IF YOU WILL ABIDE BY IT AND USE THE PROPER TOOLS FOR TESTING AND REPAIRS YOU WON'T GO WRONG. SORTA LOOK IN THERE IN THE FUEL SYSTEM PART, YOU WILL SEE THE NEED FOR THE SET UP I HAVE BEEN PREACHING ABOUT!

KEEP US POSTED

THE MEDIC

I'm definitely going to wait until they get the mechanical pump in. While waiting, I decided to get under the hood to scope out where the holes might be to bolt in the new mechanical fuel pump. I attached a picture below pointing where I think it goes. Let me know if this is correct please :)

I went through the jeep knowledge base but didn't see anything on walkthroughs as far as replacing the fuel pump. I did see, however, how to test the fuel pump. I read a lot of places (e.g. other forums) where it says how simple it is to change out a fuel pump, but since I haven't done it before, it's kind of a mystery to me. I did take out that electronic fuel pump pretty easily though :)
If you could pass a web address to me or let me know if I'm looking in the wrong place in the jeep knowledge base (Jeep > CJ7 > 1977 > Fuel Carburetion > Page 4-5), I'd appreciate it. Thanks again for all your help!

I figured those holes I put the yellow arrow pointing is similar to the photo you showed me of where your fuel pump is.

ANOTHER SHOT OF THE PUMP MOUNTED ON THE ENGINE, THIS ONE IS A 304----THE OTHER PIC WAS A 360 AT MY OTHER ANSWER....BOTH STILL THE SAME PUMP LOCATION

THERE IS PROBABLY A PLATE THAT YOU WILL REMOVE AND DISCARD---IT WAS STUCK ON THERE WHEN THE ELECTRIC PUMP CAME INTO PLAY

SOME PEOPLE JUST LEAVE THE OLD MECHANICAL PUMP IN PLACE TO COVER THE HOLE (USUALLY NOT!)

I STILL HAVE NO WORD ON HOW YOUR FUEL SYSTEM IS SET UP----NO RETURN???? NO 3 PORT FUEL FILTER?????

I CANNOT SEE ANY OF THE FUEL SYSTEM IN YOUR PIC????????????

DO YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT I MEAN ABOUT THE RETURN LINE AND 3 PORT FILTER????

LOOK AT 1980 1J-9 THIS IS ANOTHER VIEW OF PUMP OPERATION (NOT LOCATION) THIS IS NOT SHOWN IN THE 1977 SECTION OF "TKB" AT MORRIS

THIS IS REALLY A SIMPLE THING TO INSTALL

I MAKE IT EZer BY BUMPING THE ENGINE AROUND UNTIL THE ECCENTRIC IS SORTA OUTTA THE WAY OF THE PUMP ARM

---ALIGN THE GASKET AND 2 BOLTS IN THE PUMP

----RUN THE 2 BOLTS IN HALFWAY OR BETTER WITH YOUR FINGERS INTO THE SIDE OF THE MOTOR

---THE CONNECTION ON TOP GOES TO THE FILTER

---CURVED PORT ON THE PUMP [SUCTION OR INLET PORT) IT SORTA IS POINTING DOWN, IT HOOKS TO THE FUEL TANK OUTLET LINE (NOT THE RETURN LINE, IT IS SEPARATE, HAS IT'S OWN MISSION AT THE FUEL FILTER)

THE MEDIC

It's been a while since I updated on the fuel pump. The hubs and I went on a vacation, but I'm back. So I've added pictures of where the old mechanical fuel pump location was and how the current system is set up.

I've read back through our back and forth and might repeat a couple things in my previous posts, but I just want to make sure I'm clear on everything.

The carburetor is the original that came with the Jeep.

There's one line that goes from the carburetor down to the fuel filter. There's only one in and out on the fuel filter and it's running along the passenger side frame. I don't see another line that comes out of it like on yours above and I've attached a picture that shows only two ports.

However, when I followed the fuel line from the carburetor down to the 2-port fuel filter and then down to the electronic fuel pump and then out of the fuel pump to the gas tank (the electronic fuel pump that's there is c-clamped since I took it out and didn't want to bolt it back in for the picture)SURPRISE! There's another line coming back out of the gas tank right next to the other line, but it runs all the way along the driver's side frame to the front end of the car and isn't connected to anything. I'm guessing this is where the line would've extended to connect to the original mechanical pump. I'm pretty sure when the Jeep was running, it must've been spurting out gas.

The Jeep doesn't have those cool optional things added to yours, the fuel pressure gauge and regulator, but being able to fine adjust the pressure going into the carburetor is pretty awesome! I'm thinking those gadgets will be under my hood soon as well.

As I said before, the electronic fuel pump didn't have a part number, manufacturer, or anything of the sort, but I'm pretty positive if I had a fuel pressure gauge and the pump was working, it would've read much higher than 5psi.

So as I understand it, when the new mechanical fuel pump comes in and I attach it to where it's supposed to be, I'll run the 3 port fuel filter and then the lines down the driver side frame all the way to the tank and remove all that mumbo jumbo running along the passenger side frame.

As soon as the pump comes in and I get the Jeep running, I'll post an update to my success (with your help of course)!

I REALLY THINK YOUR AIR CLEANER IS TOO SMALL---NEED MORE AIR FEEDING THAT BIGGER ENGINE! (REALLY) YOU NEED ONE WITH AS MUCH CUBIC INCH AREA AS THE ORIGINAL (OR MORE)

YOU LOOK READY TO GO ON INSTALLING THE PUMP AND THE RETURN TO THE TANK---BE MINDFUL OF RUBBER FUEL LINE LAYING ON YOUR MANIFOLD HEAT OR CONSTANT CHAFING MIGHT COMPROMISE YOUR FUEL LINE.....CONSIDER A STEEL LINE MOST OF THE WAY

HERE'S MY RETURN LINE PIC AGAIN

I'M RIGHT HERE IF YOU NEED ME!

THE MEDIC