no spark. What can it be?

Just to add. The motor will turn over but will not fire. I know that there is fuel going to the carb.

BEEN WAITIN' ON YOU FELLER!

STILL GOT 2 OR 3 MORE FACTORS THAT MIGHT PLAY IN

1ST THING I WANT YOU TO DO IS MEASURE THE VOLTAGE TO THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL WITH THE "KEY ON", WITH A DIGITAL VOLTMETER

IF YOU AIN'T GOT ONE, YOU CAN GET SOMETHING "DECENT" FROM THE AUTO PARTS STORE FOR LESS THAN $20

YOU ARE GONNA NEED IT LATER ANYWAY---IF YOU STICK WITH ME, WE WILL GET YOUR RIG IN TIP-TOP CONDITION....NOT JUST RUNNING!

I'M GONNA SEND YOU A HOMEMADE PIC ON WHAT TO DO

THEN I'M GONNA END THIS ANSWER AND START ANOTHER BELOW THIS ONE, ANSWER IN BETWEEN IF YOU WANT TO...CJs ARE MY THING!

"MR. JEEP" IS THE SAME YEAR AS YOURS HAS A 258 6 CYL. W/ 4 BBL HOLLEY CARB AND MANY USER FRIENDLY MODIFICATIONS....."WILLY" IS MUCH OLDER, 1946, L-134 FLATHEAD 4 CYL. HES GOT USER FRIENDLY MODS TOO

I WANT TO KNOW THE FOLLOWING SO THAT I MIGHT ANSWER YOU BETTER

1) DO YOU REALLY, FULLY, NO HOLDS BARRED, LOVE YOUR JEEP???

2) WHAT ENGINE DO YOU HAVE?

3) HAS MANY CHANGES HAPPENED UNDER THE HOOD, SINCE IT WAS NEW?

4) CAN YOU SEND PICS OF YOUR JEEP TO INCLUDE, LEFT, RIGHT, FRONT OF YOUR ENGINE.....WHERE THE VIEW OF THE ENGINE FILLS THE WHOLE PIC FROM SIDE TO SIDE (LAY YOUR HOOD BACK ON YOUR WINDSHIELD) AND TAKE YOUR PICS MORE FROM AN ABOVE ANGLE SO I CAN SEE MOST OF IT.

5) LIST ANY OTHER PROBLEMS OR ISSUES YOU HAVE OR DO NOT UNDERSTAND OR WANT TO REPAIR OR BETTER ON YOUR JEEP. (NOT JACKING IT UP HIGH, OR PUTTING A JET ENGINE IN IT!)

WE CAN DO IT ALL ON THIS ONE THREAD

YES, I'M EXCITED! CJs ARE BUILT SO WELL, I DON'T SEE THEM OFTEN ON HERE....THEY ARE THE SOLE REASON, I STARTED ANSWERING HERE!

YOUR TURN--I'M WRITING ANOTHER NOW

THE MEDIC

Well heres the deal. First of all I appreciate your enthusiasm. I love my CJ. The situation is that I am in the Marine Corps and I left the Jeep with my brother in South Carolina. He has been trying to get it running. First he said there was no spark. I told him to replace the coil, rotor, cap, and wires. He did that tonight and now we have spark. The engine will turn over but it will not start. I know you need fuel, air, spark to get it running. He sprayed starting fluid into the carburetor and still didn't start. He took the hose off to the carburetor and said it was getting fuel. Any suggestions as I would be passing them on to him. He isn't the most mechanically inclined so dummying it down would be best.

Also to add as I forgot. It has a 258 inline 6 with a Carter BBD Carb. The engine was a crate motor that I put in 4 years ago. It has less than 1000 miles on motor. It has been running in the past well. My brother doesn't drive it often and it may have been sitting for a while without running.

GREAT!!!

I'M AT GRID......S.C....GREENWOOD---HOW FAR IS YOUR RIG FROM ME?

I'M PRESENTLY STILL WRITING THE OTHER ANSWER ON ANOTHER TAB...THIS MIGHT GO EZ!

IS HE FOLLOWING THIS POST? OR ARE YOU DOING SOME SORT OF COMMO RELAY?

I WILL SEND YOU A PRIVATE MESSAGE HERE AT THIS SITE, ANY PERSONAL INFO IS OPSEC (OPERATIONAL SECURITY) SUCH AS EMAIL ADDRESS/ HIS OR YOUR NUMBERS....WHAT EVER!

SORRY TO HEAR ABOUT THE JARHEAD THING!---I'M AN AIRBORNE RANGER WAS STATIONED IN SAVANNAH, GA FOR FOUR YEARS ('83-'87) I HAVE SHOT THE "KD COURSE" NINE TIMES, AT YOUR FAVORITE PLACE 40 MILES NORTH OF THAT LOCATION.....247 WAS MY WORST SCORE

PIC IS OF MY "MAN CAVE" AT CIVILIAN HQ NOW-------ME IN '82 W/ 1ST '77 JEEP W/304--------ME AND 2ND JEEP '79 WW/ 258.......THE 1ST TWO OF THE TOTAL OF SEVEN.......ALL HAVE BEEN MY PRIMARY TRANSPORTATION SINCE I STARTED DRIVING IN '81

GO TO TOP OF THIS PAGE, CLICK ON YOUR NAME, LOOK FOR MESSAGES...ONE WILL COME SOON

THE MEDIC

My rig is in Myrtle Beach. Its about 4 hours east of you. I will be attempting to relay back to him over the phone. I am currently stationed in California or I would go rescue my baby. I have been in for twelve years. I left the jeep with him when i got orders to Hawaii in 08 and dind't ship it over. i just got here and now i'm trying to revive it. Thanks again for all your help.

ROGER

MAY BE ABLE TO HOOK UP WITH HIM DIRECT--IF THAT'S COOL WITH "HIGHER" MAY AVOID CONFUSION!

WILL COMMO WITH EITHER, AS THE ASSAULT CONTINUES ALONG

I KNOW YOU ARE IN CALIFORNIA (FOR NOW?..FOREVER?), A LAND OF MANY STRANGE PRACTICES....AND INTERESTING PEOPLE

FIND OUT IF YOUR RIG MUST MEET CA EMISSIONS, OR IS IT "WAIVERED IN" VIA YOUR HOME OF RECORD (OR IS CA YOUR HOME OF RECORD)?

YOU HAVE LAP BELTS---IS THAT AN ISSUE?

THEY ARE STRICT

YOUR RIG IS AS OLD AS MINE---DURING SOME READING, I ONCE SAW THAT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER WAS NOT INSTALLED ON CJs TILL '79 (NOT SET IN STONE)

WILL THEY REQUIRE ONE?

WILL THEY REQUIRE EVERYTHING BE BACK TO SHOWROOM, UNDER THE HOOD (49 STATE)?

OR WILL THEY REQUIRE UP-GRADE TO SPECS OF 1977 CALIFORNIA MODEL?

OR DANGED WORSE?

YOUR BABY IS 35 YEARS OLD...IN S.C. ....WHERE WE FIX THINGS THE WAY THEY OUGHTTA BE......NOT ALWAYS BY THE BOOK

'CASE YOU DIDN'T KNOW, THEY DON'T TEST US HERE (SO FAR) SO STUFF MAY HAVE HAPPENED OVER THE YEARS!

THOUGHT MAYBE YOU MIGHT PONDER ON THIS, BEFORE YOU GET IT OUT THERE AND THEY WANT YOU SPEND $3000 TO GET IT "ROADWORTHY" FOR THEIR ROADS

WHATEVER YOUR RESULTS ARE---I CAN HELP THERE TOO---THANK GOODNESS IT'S NOT A 1980 OR NEWER, MEGA EMISSIONS ON THEM FROM THE FACTORY

I HAVE MANY MANUALS AND DIAGRAMS, A NEW CAMERA, AND A SCANNER! I'M NOT SCARED TO USE 'EM!

THE MEDIC

1ST THINGS 1ST

HERE'S THINGS TO LOOK AT

EVEN THOUGH YOU MAY HAVE NOT HAD SPARK BEFORE YOU CHANGED THE COIL-----DID THE PARTS STORE FELLER INSURE YOU GAVE YOU THE RIGHT COIL,"PRESTOLITE IGNITIONS ('76-'78) USE A DIFFERENT COIL THAN A MOTORCRAFT IGNITION ('79-'86) IF NOT, CALL THEM BACK AND GIVE THE PART NUMBER TO THEM AND VERIFY--OR MAYBE WE COULD LOOK IT UP ON THEIR SITE (PART NUMBER, FROM WHERE?)......THIS IS THE REASON: IF YOU HAVE THE WRONG ONE, IT WILL COMPLICATE THIS PROCESS EVEN MORE! THE ONE BELOW IS FOR A '77 W/ PRESTOLITE

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Coil/1977-Jeep-CJ5/_/N-in9a2Z9n80r?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=coil&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=111849_0_6007_


NOW BACK TO THE ACTUAL BEGINNING PROBLEM----NO SPARK!

THERE'S USUALLY 3 COMMON POSSIBILITIES (THE ARE OTHER UNCOMMON ONES TOO)----IF YOU HAVE PRESTOLITE IGNITION, "COMMON-VERY COMMON"

1) BAD MODULE (PRESTOLITE OR MOTORCRAFT)---LET ME EXPLAIN TO YOU HOW TO "HANDLE" GETTING A NEW ONE---MINE WENT BAD AT LEAST 5 TIMES!

SEE MY ANSWER FEB 17 (#4 TOWARDS BOTTOM) AT THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1984-jeep-cherokee-cj7


THIS WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1977-Jeep-CJ5/Ignition-Control-Module/_/N-in9a2Z9n80t?filterByKeyWord=ignition+module&fromString=search


2) IF YOU HAVE A PRESTOLITE DISTRIBUTOR (NORMALLY ON '76 -'78) IT IS NOT DESIGNED WELL, AND WAS REPLACED W/ A MOTORCRAFT SYSTEM LATER IN 1979

THINGS THAT GO WRONG

REMEMBER FROM ABOVE--THE MODULE IS ALREADY A PROBLEM IN THE SYSTEM

A) THE WIRES INTO IT ARE SOLID COPPER WIRES AND A SMALL GAUGE. IF THEY ARE ALLOWED TO MOVE/ BOUNCE AROUND THEY WILL EZily BREAK.

B) THE "PICKUP" INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAN GO BAD ALSO

THERE'S ONLY 2 WIRES, A CONTINUITY TEST WILL VERIFY WHETHER A & B ARE STILL INTACT AND GOOD TO GO......SEE 1ST 3 PICS AT THE BOTTOM (PRESTOLITE DISTRIBUTOR ONLY HAS 2 WIRES, MOTORCRAFT HAS 3, ONE IS A GROUND)


+++++++FROM HERE DOWN ARE PROBLEMS, BUT THE JEEP WILL HAVE SPARK AND WILL RUN

C) THE VACUUM ADVANCE "AIR BLADDER" (FOR LACK OF CORRECT NAME) THAT IS UNDER TH PLASTIC FRONT WHERE THE VACUUM LINE CONNECTS ON WILL DEVELOP CRACKS AND HOLES (INTERNAL) THIS RESULTS IN...A VACUUM LEAK, AND NO ADVANCE VIA VACUUM (STILL RUNS, NO ECONOMY)

D) THE VACUUM ADVANCE PICKUP ASSEMBLY GETS WORN AND WILL NOT SLIDE WHEN IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE ACTUATED

E) INSIDE THE BODY, IS THE "MECHANICAL ADVANCE" I HAVE HAD THE SPRINGS BREAK MULTIPLE TIMES ON THE WEIGHTS AND THEY STAY "THROWN OUT". THIS WILL ADVANCE THE TIMING, IT WILL STILL RUN AND SOUND GOOD AT IDLE. IF YOU HOOK UP YOUR TIMING GUN, YOU WILL BE FOOLED INTO THINKING YOUR TIMING IS OFF FROM WHAT YOU SET IT AT BEFORE---THE 1ST THING YOU WILL DO IS RESET THE TIMING......NOW IT IS RIGHT ON THE TIMING MARKS (LOOKS RIGHT!) BUT AS YOU GIVE IT GAS, IN EITHER SITUATION---IT WILL NOT ADVANCE (OR RETARD)......WHETHER YOU DON'T FIND THIS OR MIS-CORRECT IT BY RESETTING THE TIMING.......IT STILL RUNS, YOUR POWER AND "GET UP AND GO", AS WELL AS MPG SUFFER....YOU WILL NOTICE YOUR JEEP SUDDENLY HAD A CHANGE..........I CAN EXPLAIN HOW TO FIND A PROBLEM WITH EITHER ADVANCE USING THE TIMING LIGHT AS A TEST TOOL.

EVERY TIME I HAD ONE OF THESE PROBLEMS WITH THE PRESTOLITE SYSTEM, NOT ONLY WAS I PIZZED OFF, BUT THEY ALWAYS SEEMED TO HAPPEN AT THE WORST OF TIMES, AND I HAD TO LEARN ALL OF THIS BY TRIAL AND ERROR, AS I WENT, DOWN TIME WAS NOT GOOD, THIS JEEP IS MY PRIMARY RIDE.....I HOPE MY EXPERIENCES HELP YOU!

I FINALLY GOT SMART, I SWAPPED THE PRESTOLITE FOR A MOTORCRAFT SYSTEM.....MOTORCRAFT HAS STRANDED WIRES, THE MODULE IS MORE RELIABLE (EZ TO FIND THE SAME ONE AT AN AUTO SALVAGE YARD ON '80s FORD CARS...THE BLUE ONE, WHERE THE WIRES COME OUT), I HAVE NOT HAD A SPRING PROBLEM (YET), VACUUM ADVANCE IS RELIABLE

LUCKILY I HAVE A GOOD STANDING AT THE PARTS STORES. THE PREVIOUS PRESTO DISTs WERE THE SAME PRICE AS THE MOTORCRAFT, AND HAD A LIFETIME WARRANTY, I BOUGHT IT THERE....THEY SWAPPED ME EVEN

SAME WENT FOR THE MODULE

THIS IS THE COST OF A REMAN (PERFECTLY AS GOOD AS A NEW ONE) AND LOOK AT THE WARRANTY!

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Cardone-Reman-Distributor/1979-Jeep-CJ5/_/N-imcn1Z93xku?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=DISTRIBUTOR&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=768895_76774_0_

THIS IS THE MODULE THAT GOES WITH IT--LOOK AT THAT WARRANTY!

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Control-Module/1979-Jeep-CJ5/_/N-imcn1Z9n80t?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=ignition+module&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=118422_300759_5526_

I KEEP A SPARE FUEL PUMP, COIL, AND MODULE IN MY JEEP....SINCE DOING SO I HAVE HAD NO NEED FOR THEM.....2 OTHER CJs ON THE ROADSIDE GOT GOING WITH THE FUEL PUMP AND MODULE, WHICH THEY PAID ME FOR, AND I REPLACED THEM


THE ONLY THINGS STILL NEEDED TO SWITCH OVER, IS A FEW WIRES W/ CONNECTORS OUT OF A '80s FORD, THE COIL CONNECTOR FROM AN 80s CAR OR TRUCK OUT OF THE AUTO SALVAGE YARD, SOME WIRE BUTT SPLICES, 1/2 WRENCH, TAPE MEASURE, LONG FLAT SCREWDRIVER.....DWELL/ TACH METER, AND A TIMING LIGHT!....LAST ITEMS, A "BALLAST RESISTOR",

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Accel-1-82-Ohm-resistance-value-ignition-ballast-resistor/_/N-25rh?itemIdentifier=253187&_requestid=295326


AND A COIL FOR A '79 CJ

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Coil/1979-Jeep-CJ5/_/N-imcn1Z9n80r?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=coil&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=111930_0_5526_



IF YOU DON'T WANNA SWAP OVER...........AND DETERMINE THAT THE DISTRIBUTOR IS BAD....IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, DISREGARD THIS, IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THIS GO SMOOTH....LEAVE THE DISTRIBUTOR IN, DO NOT LOOSEN OR MOVE IT.

GO AHEAD AND GET THE REPLACEMENT PRESTOLITE DISTRIBUTOR, DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE "CORE CHARGE" YET (ALWAYS KEEP ANY CORE, UNTIL YOU ARE SATISFIED THE SYSTEM IS FIXED)

THEN LET ME KNOW YOU ARE READY, I CAN HELP YOU GET IT INSTALLED THE QUICK EZ WAY......INSTEAD OF HAVING TO GO THRU THE "TOP DEAD CENTER" ON "COMPRESSION" STROKE WAY (THE HARD WAY)

KEEP ME POSTED, THESE ARE THE MOST LIKELY POSSIBILITIES, IF TESTING PROVES ALL IS GOOD, SO FAR, WE WILL DIG DEEPER

NEED TO KNOW VOLTAGE AT POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL, BEFORE YOU DO THE STUFF IN THIS STUFF, IN THIS ANSWER.......IF THESE IS NO VOLTAGE, WE MUST CHECK SOME OTHER STUFF.....REMEMBER GOOD BATTERY, WITH THE KEY "ON"


YOUR ANSWERS/ TEST RESULTS/ QUESTIONS----INPUT?

THE MEDIC

here are the pictures of the coils. The one on the left is the one he pulled out. He took the one on the right he took back to the parts store and got one that has threaded connections like the one on the left.

Ooops attached same picture twice. Sorry.

OK--THIS MORNING YOU SENT ME A MESSAGE, TO KEEP THINGS UNDERSTANDABLE AT THIS POST....THIS WAS THE "JEEP" PART OF IT:

I was thinking this morning about the Jeep. At first my brother was having problems with spark. He replaced the coil, cap, rotor and plug wires and said he had spark. Then he claimed it still wouldn't run, just turn over. I told him to spray starting fluid into the carb to see if it would fire. He said "No, it didn't". Now wouldnt that mean that there is still no spark? Because at that point you are eliminating the fuel system right?

I'M 4 HOURS FROM YOUR RIG--STILL MUCH CLOSER THAN YOU!

I DO NOT KNOW THE ABILITIES OF YOUR BROTHER ON THE OTHER END!

I SORTA NEED SOME INPUT FROM THE 1ST TESTS, "THE DOCTOR" ORDERED, AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS VISIT

IN PARTICULAR ******HOW IS HE TESTING FOR SPARK?***** EXACTLY WHAT HE IS DOING TO TEST FOR IT.

..........."HAVING SPARK" AND .....WHAT IS THE EXACT DC VOLTAGE AT POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL ARE TWO DIFFERENT THINGS!!!!!!!

I NEED ACCURATE ANSWERS TO BOTH OF THE ABOVE....THIS IS HOLDING ME UP!

IF WE DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHAT EXACTLY TO DO, I WILL SLOW DOWN AND TEACH YOU FELLERS! OR TALK YOU THRU VIA PHONE COMMO

I AM SORTA OBLIGATED AND COMMITTED NOW: SOUTH CAROLINIAN, BROKE JEEP CJ 5, MILITARY....SORTA "ME" IN 1981

WITHOUT ANSWERS--I MIGHT HAVE TO WRITE A FULL CJ SERVICE MANUAL, TO ACCIDENTALLY STUMBLE ONTO YOUR PROBLEM.....WITH ANSWERS, I MAY PINPOINT IT QUICK--OR AT LEAST CONCENTRATE ON THAT AREA MORE

THE "STARTER FLUID THING" OR A LITTLE FUEL----IS THE EZIST "QUICK" TEST TO DETERMINE WHETHER IT IS A SPARK OR FUEL PROBLEM.....YOU REALLY ONLY HAVE TO TAKE THE BREATHER TOP OFF

GENERALLY SPEAKING---DOING THAT FUEL TEST IF IT CONTINUES TO "DRY TURN OVER" THERE IS "PROBABLY" NO SPARK----IF IT COUGHS, SPITS AND SPUTTERS, HIT A FEW TIMES, OR BACKFIRES....AT MINIMUM SOME SPARK IS PRESENT AND "I" TEND TO RULE OUT A FUEL PROBLEM

THE ABOVE IS NOT "SET IN STONE", BUT WORKS MOST OF THE TIME

THE OTHER IMPORTANT THINGS I NEED TO KNOW

1) IT RAN FINE---WAS PARKED---NOW TURNS OVER WELL (WILL NOT BUST OFF)---AND DOES NOTHING? DID "SOMETHING", BEFORE IT WAS FOOLED WITH?

2) IF YOU CAN---TELL ME EVERYTHING THAT HAS BEEN FOOLED WITH? WAS THE DISTRIBUTOR ITSELF REMOVED? ADJUSTMENTS, CARB, ALL THE SPARK PLUG WIRES REMOVED.....ANYTHING, ALL THE WAY DOWN TO KNEELING AT THE FRONT BUMPER AND PRAYING.......ASKING "THE GREAT AIRBORNE RANGER IN THE SKY" TO SEND COMPETENT ASSISTANCE, I.E. "THE BATTALION STALLION"

PLEASE LIST EVERYTHING AND ANSWER MY QUESTIONS....I NEED THE ENTIRE SITUATION, IN ORDER TO FORM A BATTLEPLAN

THE MEDIC

IF YOUR DISTRIBUTOR LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE THIS---NOTE THE PLASTIC FRONT AND IT ONLY HAS 2 WIRES GOING INTO IT......THIS IS A "PRESTOLITE SYSTEM".......(NOT THE NEWER MOTORCRAFT SYSTEM)

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product__5630649-P_218_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS____?zoneAssigned=1


THIS IS THE CORRECT COIL---INSURE THE PART NUMBER IS CORRECT (DON'T GO BY "LOOKS") THIS IS FROM ADVANCE AUTO

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ignition-Coil-BWD-Select_3050874-P_190_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS_____


THIS IS THE EXACT SAME COIL FROM AUTO ZONE FOR A '77 CJ PRESTOLITE IGNITION

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Coil/1977-Jeep-CJ5/_/N-in9a2Z9n80r?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=IGNITION+COIL&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=111849_0_6007_





BELOW ARE OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT WANT TO LOOK THRU---SOME MAY BE 304s BUT THE THEORY IS MOSTLY THE SAME, I DO USE MY 258 AS AN EXAMPLE IN SOME OF THEM

THIS FELLER HAS CREATED 2 POSTS

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1980-jeep-cj7-v8-wont-start


https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1980-jeep-cj7-timingtuning-problem-with-a


HERE ARE SOME OTHERS

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1982-jeep-cj7-ignition-problem-spark-distributor-cap



https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1978-jeep-cj7-need-help-getting-started-start-on-troubleshooting



IF YOU LOOK AT THE CJ 7 FORUM PRESENTLY---THERE ARE ONLY 422 QUESTIONS----10 YEARS OF CJ 7 (1976-1986) COMPARE THAT TO "CHEROKEE" OR ANY OTHER MAKE OR MODEL OF CARS AND TRUCKS!----GOING SORTA BY "PROBLEMS" THE CJ 7 HAS A BETTER TRACK RECORD ON THIS SITE

https://www.2carpros.com/makes/jeep/cj7

NOW LOOK AT CJ 5s.....BEEN AROUND FOREVER (1955-1983)---THERE ARE ONLY 109 QUESTIONS......"JEEP WROTE THE BOOK ON FOUR WHEEL DRIVE".....IT PAYS TO STICK WITH THE VERY BEST!

https://www.2carpros.com/makes/jeep/cj5

I'VE ANSWERED MOST OF THE QUESTIONS OF BOTH FORUMS OVER THE LAST 2+ YEARS. SOME HANG WITH ME A WHILE (SEE RESPONSES)

I LIKE HELPING THE CJs, IT'S REWARDING WHEN YOU HEAR POSITIVE FEEDBACK AND KNOW YOU HAVE SAVED SOMEONE A BUNDLE....AND MAKE A NEW BUDDY FROM TIME TO TIME!

I'LL ATTEMPT A FEW MORE PICS FOR TESTING LATER LATER TODAY (MUST DO MY CHORES NOW)

THE MEDIC

CJ MEDEVAC has done it again!!!! Another Jeep CJ back on the road. We replaced the Ignition Control Module and it fired up and is running like a champ. I want to take the time to thank you sincerley for all the help and all the patience you had with us. For anyone that has a question about Jeeps this is your official site for success. MEDEVAC walked a novice mechanic at best clearly through each step in the troubleshooting process via conference call on the phone to correct a "no spark" issue. Once again MEDEVAC I can't thank you enough and I owe you.

WHEN YOU GET BACK TO SC, YOU CAN TREAT ME TO A SACKFUL OF KRYSTAL BURGERS....NO MUSTARD...NO PICKLE...CHEESE...ONION....MAYO!

THE CLOSEST ONE TO ME IS ABOUT 50 MILES, THE NEXT 70 MILES

SPEAKING OF MAYO---I KNOW YOUR BROTHER IS SENDING YOU A JAR OF "DUKES", AT MINIMUM, A JAR A MONTH?

GLAD IT IS RUNNING!......AS IT SHOULD ALWAYS DO!

HAVE YOU CHECKED OUT THE OTHER MODIFICATION ALBUMS?

GET BACK WITH ME, I'LL SEND YOU THE WIRE DIAGRAMS THAT I IMPROVED BY COLORING THE WIRES. I'M GONNA ALSO TRY TO MAKE A DIAGRAM OR TWO ON SWAPPING OVER THE PRESTOLITE SYSTEM TO THE "MUCH BETTER" AND FEW HEADACHES MOTORCRAFT DISTRIBUTOR AND MODULE. I WANT THE DIAGRAM FOOL PROOF AND INCLUDE REAL PICS OF THE WHAT IS NEEDED FROM THE SALVAGE YARD. EVEN A SPARE MOTORCRAFT MODULE MIGHT STILL BE FOUND AT ONE FOR FREE OR A BUCK OR TWO. THEN ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SWAP YOURS FOR A TEMPORARY "REAL WORLD TEST" (THAT IS ONCE YOU DO UPGRADE)-----MOST UNFORTUNATLY, MOST OF THE AMC CARS ARE GONE, OR HAVE BEEN CRUSHED, SO A CHEAP PRESTOLITE SPARE IS HARD TO COME BY!

EVEN IF YOU DO NOT SWAP--DO LIKE I DID--HAVE A SPARE DISTRIBUTOR COMPLETE (ROTOR BUTTON AND CAP), MODULE, AND FUEL PUMP IN THE JEEP AT ALL TIMES! WHEN I UPGRADED, I SWAPPED MODULES, AND TOOK OUT THE "SUBSTANDARD PRESTOLITE DIST"---I CAN TRUST THE MOTORCRAFT DIST A LOT BETTER.

ONCE YOU HAVE THE EZ REMOVAL AND INSTALL METHOD, YOU CAN CHANGE THE DIST 5 MINUTES TOPS AND MAKE IT GO, ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, WITH ONLY A 1/2 WRENCH, UNTIL YOU CAN TWEAK THE TIMING IN PERFECT, ONCE YOU GET HOME TO YOUR TIMING LIGHT.....THERE'S ONLY ABOUT 3 THINGS YOU MUST REMEMBER....BEFORE YOU SNATCH IT OUT! THIS KEEPS YOU FROM FINDING "TDC"

I APPRECIATE THE COMPLIMENTS....EVEN IF THEY'RE FROM A MARINE! LOL!

KEEP IN TOUCH

THE MEDIC

I SORTA GOT A LITTLE CARRIED AWAY WITH THE PRESTOLITE SYSTEM VS: THE MOTORCRAFT IGNITION SYSTEM

'76-'78 USED PRESTOLITE---AND EVEN CJ5s EARLIER THAN THAT

'79 THEY CHANGED TO MOTORCRAFT

THE PRESTOLITE SYSTEMS DID NOT USE A "RESISTANCE WIRE" IN THE "RUN" WIRE.....SO THE COIL HAD AN INTERNAL RESISTOR

MOTORCRAFT DID USE A "RESISTANCE WIRE".....SO THE COIL USED WAS "FOR EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY"

WHEN CONVERTING OVER TO THE MOTORCRAFT, I INSTALLED A "BALLAST RESISTOR" ON MINE....TAKING THE PLACE OF THE "MISSING/ NON-EXISTENT" "RESISTOR WIRE" ON '79 ON UP

I MIGHT COULDA STUCK WITH THE OLD COIL, AND LEFT OUT THE BALLAST RESISTOR, BUT I FIGURED IF I UPDATED THE SYSTEM TO '79....UP DATE IT ALL. BESIDES, IF THE BALLAST RESISTOR DOES BURN OUT, I CAN TEMPORARILY JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE CONNECTORS (PROVIDING FULL VOLTAGE) TO LIMP MR. JEEP IN.

BELOW IS WHAT A BALLAST RESISTOR LOOKS LIKE, IT JUST LOWERS 12V TO ABOUT 7.5 VOLTS FOR LONGEVITY.

"I" TERMINAL ON THE SOLENOID PROVIDES "FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE" WHILE THE KEY IS IN THE START POSITION, TEMPORARILY NOTHING GETS HURT IF IT IS SUPPLIED WITH FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE, JUST TO LIMP YOU IN USING A JUMPER

1ST PIC IS ACTUALLY ON MY WILLYS JEEP (EXACTLY, AS ON MY 1977 CJ 5)

2ND PIC IS A "PIGGYBACK" FOR BYPASSING THE BALLAST RESISTOR--A JUMPER WIRE WILL DO THE SAME THING

3RD PIC IS THE INPUT WIRE MOVED, IT NOW PIGGYBACKS THE OUTPUT TERMINAL (OR YOU CAN JUST SAY THAT I HAVE CONNECTED THE WIRES)

ON THE BACKSIDE OF THE BALLAST RESISTOR IS A COIL OF RESISTANCE WIRE BETWEEN THE TWO MALE CONNECTORS. SOMETIMES (VERY SELDOM) THEY BURN UP OR JUST SHAKE AND BREAK....THE "PIGGYBACK THING" WILL GET YOU IN, TILL YOU CAN REPLACE IT.

THE RESISTANCE (BALLAST OR RESISTANCE WIRE) IS IN THERE TO KEEP FROM BURNING OUT THE MODULE/ COIL WITH PROLONGED FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE

THE MEDIC

I have a tram (people mover) that has a 1977 jeep 258 engine in it. I used the engine stamp to determine this much. Its been worked on by so many backyard guys that I have no real idea what to do now.

I have replaced the alternator and battery, along with the battery cables. Ground is good and it was running. Yesterday it stopped running.

It is getting fuel. It will not start with starting fluid.

I have 12v at the positive side of the ignition coil with the key on. Resistances are within spec. The ballast is not being used.

Plugs were new last year and show signs of normal wear.

Plug wires are in good condition and I have verified there is no breaks with my tester. Firing order is correct too.

I replaced the icm since it had some burn spots on the wires. It was the only thing left that I could think of and I could not find a way to test it.

Prestolite ignition.

No vacuum lines have been left on the entire engine, but it had been running though it had been heck to start at times.

I think that's about it. Cap and rotor are in fine condition. Unless the distributor is bad I really I am lost. I am not familiar with older engines, so I could really use the help from you more knowledgeable folks.

Thanks!
Aaron

Prestolite

Bah-Humbug!

I have a '77 CJ-5 too and a "46 Willys!

I try to answer all of the CJ questions on here, some get by me!

Had to upgrade to Motorcraft (started with the 1979's). I got tired of Prestocrap stuff breaking on me. Distributor wires/ Ignition Module/ Distributor advance/ Etc

Going to send you a picture of my Motorcraft distributor connector (just as an example)

Do a continuity test through your two wires thru the distributor. The are like solid telephone wires that shake and break EZily, Hence my upgrade having stranded wires on a Motorcraft System.

This is your distributor

http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/distributor/cardone-reman-distributor/jeep/cj5/1977/6-cylinders-a-4-2l-1bl/700930_154908_11714/?checkfit=true

What'd you come up with?

Send picture of your rig!

The Medic

I was talking with a co-worker at the end of the night last night and he said some old fart came by and started asking some questions. He proceeded to hold the ignition coil to the block and did not get any spark from it. He said we should probably replace it. Makes sense, but it seems odd to me that all the resistances would check out as well as the voltage on the terminal. I will give it a try though. Still have to go in to work today to do that. Should I use the ballast when I hook that up or just continue without it like it was?

I have got a couple pictures of the engine bay that I will put here for you. I am still not really sure if it came out of a CJ5, but I will get you a picture of the beast it is in. I am sure it will be a laugh for you!

At work, Will respond more when I get home.

Should not need a ballast resistor with prestocrap, Insure you have the correct coil.

Is the Ignition Module grounded good? If there is a connector on that ground (the module ground wire, may have a bullet connector) pull it apart and insure that it is not corroded.

Yep, Even a new module can be bad, have it tested 4 or more times at the auto parts store. If it's bad, test the new one before you leave! Advance Auto Parts has a tester for these.

Results of continuity test thru the distributor wires?

The majority of my pics are at home, I'll post some when I get there.

The Medic

Hey medic, it turns out the old farts were on the money. Despite the electrical tests checking out, replacing the coil worked. At least i will know what to check for when the thing breaks down next week lol. I appreciate you taking the time to get right with me on this. Ill post up the pick of our tram for ya too. Thanks so much

Looks nothing like a Jeep!

But it does have a Jeep Heart!

From blowing up the picture, looks like a campground.

Take in account you may still have the 1 bbl, operations will be the same

I went to the Carter BBD (2 bbl) for a few years on my present CJ-5, Now I have Mr. 390 Holley 4 bbl. Intake and carb did cost, but I did reach my goal. 18 MPG an improvement over 15 or so norm, with an occasional 16

This might aid you later

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

Come back to see us,

Thanks for giving us a chance

.....We would of finally got it!

Last picture, This is my tram on Veterans Day!

The Medic

Electrical problem
1979 Jeep CJ5 V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual 39,000 miles

I have been trying to start my jeep and am finding that as long as my starter is turning, I get no spark. As soon as I let off the key and the starter shuts off, I get some spark and a few of the cylinders fire, but I can't get it to start. I'm thinking there is something wrong with the ignition switch, and that it might not be sending power to my coil when I'm turning the engine over.

Do this connect a wire from the battery positive post to the coil positive terminal and see what happens if it fires up replace the ignition switch.

Engine Performance problem
1972 Jeep CJ5 V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual

Have replaced points/cond., cap, rotor, good wire, good plug.. Had problem with old parts so replaced every thing and still don't have spark out of Disp cap.

this effects # 3 cly. only

See my profile and other CJ 5 and CJ 7 Answers of mine.

Ok, how do you know there is no spark at 3?

What was your test?

I just want to try to narrow things down.

If you swapped "Spark Plug Wires" with another cylinder are your results the same?

Can you hold #3 spark plug (still connected) in your hand, while cranking, and not do the "Coil-o-matic Dance"?

Respond with any info you failed to give....in detail is fine.....Thats how I will answer you!

Respond

The Medic

This is a 304 V8. Motor was losing power. Before problem was found. I installed new points (the type with condenser attached to them) and a new coil. Already had new plugs & plug wires. Reset timing to 5 BTDC and dwell to 30. Motor still had low power curve. With motor running, pulled off each plug wire off at a time from disp. cap and got heavy spark back into cap & motor faulted each time with each wire except for #3 which had no spark at the cap and no change to the motor. Exchanged #3 wire with a new one (no results) Installed new rotor and cap. Rechecked timing. Still do not have spark to # 3 wire. Could 1 lobe on the disp. cam be worn down to the point its not opening the points?

I could see the engine no change sound dealif maybe you had a non-operating valve or no compression.....but the actual SEE NO SPARK rules that out! Well you are sorta hitting on one of my tests to make! I have 2 different references that say .016" is your point gap and 32 degrees should be your dwell. 5 degrees BTDC is your timing. The test you should perform is to Rotate your engine (BY HAND) to each peak, of your Points Cam......with a feeler gauge, check point gap of each peak. Mark one peak for a reference. I have a Dial indicator, in which using the right attachments, I can watch each peak and each flat to compare the heights.......Provided something is not Muffed or something stuck in the Gear on the bottom of your DIST. and "Bucking" as it travels on the camshaft at that Particular point. LOST??? Is this a daily driver or a Project....2nd Vehicle? Ever thought about changing over to electronic ignition......It would not be that hard.....just a little wiring you would have to do. I switched my '77 258 Prestolite (troublesome electronic Ignition system) Over to '79 Motorcraft (PROVEN E.I.S.), It involved a little figuring out....but was EZ looking back, after engineering was done. Not true to all, but the Prestolite system had a "Gold Colored Module" [on the fender, kinda looked like a Ford Voltage Regulator] and the distributor SORTA USED TO LOOK LIKE the one on the left below! This is my "GOOD-SPECIAL" Prestolite Distributor---I use it to prime New Oil Pumps and lubricate a Newly Rebuilt Engine and to test Oil Pressure....Its NEW "Nelsomatic Modifications" are: A welded on stud at very top (to attach a handheld drill ), and the Cam Driven gear has PERMANENTLY BEEN REMOVED, below fingers, cannot see in this pic) Other crap missing, is the front plastic plate (where vacuum line attached), in which I removed to verify the "Vacuum Advance [rubber bags, if you will]" Had Holes/ Cracks in them....found only when I discovered NO VACUUM ADVANCE, with my timing light (disconnecting and reconnecting the distributor vacuum line, 3rd Incident with that issue) This also created what we call, "AN EVIL VACUUM LEAK" at the distributor! The Other Crappy issue was the entrance wires into it were so LITTLE and UNSUPPORTED, they would shake until one broke (stranded wherever you might be, this was 2nd time for this occurrance to happen to me) So the Prestolite HAD TO GO! (wires were torn out for testing, not in pic) The ID tag is located near where the Cap Clip attaches to the distributor (can see in pic) On the right is the best thing AMC ever did for the distributor!....Motorcraft Ignition...thats MY DISTRIBUTOR ON THE RIGHT.....ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEMS WITH IT!....Replaced module twice....Later on, after install, I purchased a Lifetime Warranty Ignition Module at my parts house (I keep a spare from the salvage yard, in my console, so I am set!)

I got the 6 cyl. rebuilt distributor for $50 at Advance Auto and a "BLUE" Ignition module and connectors with plenty of attached wire at the salvage yard....$5!...even got a spare module in the deal!----off of '80s Fords....no Jeeps can be found in most yards. There are only 2 or 3 wires to connect to your existing wire harness......the rest run exposed, in the engine compartment, between the coil, distributor and module via the Ford wires from the salvage yard. From what I remember---over on the right, the middle red wire and the blue (that I colored in) are the only 2 that need a correct home....(I'm just sorta going on memory.....just a little more studying I could get you cooking!) The others all have connectors and can only go one place! I could maybe assist you in doing this----you must be "Voltmeter Literate" to insure you make the right connections! If you have to get a distributor anyway,----why not up-grade? This is the diagram I traced out, to do my swap (6 cyl...is probably the same diagram---not sure if you would use "BLUE" or "RED" Module...my Dads 351W. F150 uses "BLUE" (a trip to the parts store would verify your color of a module)---my scanner cut off the top black wire.....If I had your E-mail I could maybe send it and get a better view. I was gonna send you a PM anyway...so you can discreetly give me it there. Are you able to CORRECTLY INSTALL A DISTRIBUTOR? No more messing with points--more reliable Ignition. I will assist all I can..... Heres my crudely scanned diagram----look for my PRIVATE MESSAGE (PM) Your turn to respond back with something like, "I'm trying to keep it original." The Medic

Thanks for your feed back. Cost of new dist. won over wasting time to trouble shoot the old one. Easy to install and best of all ITS FIXED and we are back to happy JEEPING with large power curve and sweet tone exhaust.

Didn't want to convert to electronics at this time.

Still don't know why that old dist. would not fire on #3 but you know that's the rebuilder's problem. Thanks again. Now if I could just figure out why I can't get spark out of my Madza 323?

Trade in the MAZDA!!!----GET JEEP!

Glad you got him figured out.

Did you get my Jeep Modifications...sent thru Walmart Photo?

What'd you think?


OK, heres the hard part, go to my "VOTES" see what others wrote in, then go to "FEEDBACK" and out-do what they said!

Sorry cannot help with the Mazda---post a question in that forum...you will probably get help there.

If ya'll need more help with the Jeep....come back to this question (as you are doing now), I will be alerted....then you will definitly get me back.

Expolring other CJ 5 and CJ 7 questions may help, site is being revamped---explore it too!

Ya'll be good!

The Medic

Hey CJMEDEVAC,

You seem like the man with more than one plan. Maybe you can answer me this riddle.

I have a 76 CJ7 with AMC 360 swap. Motorcraft Distributor. Long story short, Starting Solenoid stuck in engaged in the cold i think i cooked something. Swapped with new : Coil, Ignition switch, Starting solenoid, new TP40 module, Fusible link.

I have no fire in run position, have fire in start. If i hotwire + battery to + coil she runs like a charm.

Shes see more grease balls than a Shanghai lady of the night.

Any ideas?

Thanks for relying on me!

I hope I can help!

My wire '79 diagram shows the 'Main Plat' using a 258 it does also show the 304 split off of it (It is sorta confusing on the 304 part)

I use/ modify this diagram to 'splain stuff to y'all. I took a diagram in a manual (2 different pages) and scanned it/ colored it in Microsoft Paint, then I had it blown up and laminated it's now hanging in my garage. Originally all the lines were black/ small/ criss-crossing/nearly impossible to trace out. With it colored and big now, it takes seconds to navigate it! (I still have it in computer format).

So, I grabbed this part and deleted everything around a long while back.

If you will study "I" terminal and my explanation of how it works, you will understand why you have juice to the coil while 'cranking'. SEE THE SPLICE/ OR TEE in the coil wire.

From that splice, head 'South" your problem is most likely from there down.

Check your wires

Check the resistance wire

This is a '79 diagram, Generically forget the firewall in the diagram, BUT see if you are getting juice (12 V) into the module from your firewall.

If all looks good, let me know.

I can diagram you thru the firewall if need be!

I'll help all I can, keep responding

The Medic

Thanks for being reliable!

Ill get to studying and let you know what I find.

Jeep up and running?

The Medic

After getting it running, the alternator was showing 13.6v charging. I believe you are correct in it being a self contained regulated alternator.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken

My post wasn't suppose to be for this forum, I was responding to a post I had and somehow got put on this one. This is my fault. I'm not sure if the op did get his up and running yet.

Which forum was it suppose to be for?

One I started about a 74 cj5 with no spark after reassembly of chassis.

Okay sorry I merged the posts becasue they where similar.

No worries. I have another one started about issues with a pilot bearing