do you mean the timing adjustment??

Roy

ALL RIGHTY THEN

THEY JUST CHANGED THIS SITE---I'M ATTEMPTING TO FIGGER OUT HOW IT WORKS NOW!

DO YOU NEED TO SET YOUR TIMING?

DO YOU HAVE ANY CLUE?........REALLY....KINDA HELPS ME, FIGGER OUT HOW TO ASSIST YOU....SPILL YOUR GUTS IN DETAIL ABOUT WHAT'S GOING ON WITH YOUR RIG......ENGINE SIZE...MODIFICATIONS

WE'RE GONNA NEED 2 TUNE UP ITEMS ....A TIMING LIGHT (PLAIN JANE...CHEAP....NO K.NOBS BELLS OR WHISTLES....A TRIGGER IS FINE!) AND WE'RE GONNA NEED A DWELL/ TACH METER......AND MAYBE A FEW WRENCHES AND SCREWDRIVERS

DO YOU HAVE A REPAIR MANUAL FOR YOUR RIG....IT'LL BE USEFUL FOR A GUIDE AND THE CORRECT SPECS FOR DOING THIS AND OTHER PROCEDURES.....SEE MY LINK

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-taurus-tune-up

I CAN CONTINUE TO AID YOU (BETTER THAN WHAT I'M ABOUT TO THROW AT YOU NOW), IF YOU GET THE NEEDED EQUIPMENT

...........BUT TO VAGUELY ANSWER YOU INITIAL QUESTION

THE BOLT UNDER THE DISTRIBUTOR HOLDS A CLAMP DOWN TIGHT...THE CLAMP HOLDS THE DISTRIBUTOR IN IT'S HOLE...........IT ALSO KEEPS THE DISTRIBUTOR FROM TURNING

IN ORDER TO TIME THE VEHICLE.....YOU MUST FIND AND MARK YOUR TIMING MARKS.....HOOK UP THE TACH DWELL METER SO THAT YOU CAN BE AT THE CORRECT IDLE SPEED WHEN TIMING.......THE TIMING LIGHT IS ALSO HOOKED UP.......VACUUM ADVANCE MUST BE DISCONNECTED AND PLUGGED FOR THE PROCEDURE (IT IS RECONNECTED WHEN FINISHED) .........BARELY LOOSEN THE CLAMP FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR

WITH EVERYTHING IN ORDER, YOU GET THE ENGINE TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE....CHECK OR ADJUST THE IDLE SPEED....AIM THE TIMING LIGHT AT THE TIMING MARKS......TWISTING THE ENTIRE DISTRIBUTOR WILL MAKE THE TIMING MARKS MOVE (IN THE STROBE FLASHES)....WHEN AT THE CORRECT SETTING....SHUT THE ENGINE OFF AND TIGHTEN THE CLAMP....CRANK IT BACK UP AND VERIFY IT'S RIGHT......RECONNECT THE VACUUM LINE...SET YOUR IDLE SPEED AGAIN

A TIMING LIGHT IS BASICALLY A STROBE LIGHT......IF YOU AIM IT AT A MOVING PART, LIKE THE FAN BLADES, IT WILL APPEAR THAT THEY ARE "STOPPED" OR "NOT MOVING".......BUT IT REALLY IS!!!!! AT LIKE 800 RPM!.......YOU WILL LOSE FINGERS...ETC. IF YOU STICK YOUR LITTLE NOSE PICKERS IN THERE!

POINTS MUST BE ADJUSTED CORRECTLY BEFORE TIMING IS PERFORMED

PLEASE TELL ME YOU DIDN'T TAKE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT!

PIC IS OF (MORE INFO THAN YOU WILL NEED) ME ABOUT TO TIME MY 1946 WILLYS JEEP

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

1970 f100 with 6.4- 390 bored 30 over with rv cam. im not quite sure what the bolt is for, it is under the entire distributor, not the clamp that holds it down but when distributor is completely removed i looked down through intake into block and there is a 6 sided bolt directly under distributor. i removed distributor and reinstalled it next day and put a used carberater on it and the motor started and ran with a slight miss to it so i started to turn distributor and engine started idleing up and i thought it was a vaccum leak or idle just needed turned down but i pushed throttle down and carb shot big flame out of it so i assumed i needed a new carb. installed .another carb (not new) and engine sounded like it had no fire. i then took #1 spark plug out and brought to tdc on compression stroke to see if it was in time and it seemed to be. left spark plug out and turned motor over trying to start and engine almost started but not all the way. put #1 plug back in and motor sounded like there was no fire again and would not start???

also is the "s" and the "I" on the solenoid both neccessary.

FIRE OUT OF THE CARB IS PROBABLY A TIMING ISSUE

"S" AND "I".....SEE MY PICS

THIS IS MY JEEP'S DIAGRAM---FORD SYSTEM-----YOURS WORKS THE SAME WAY---WIRE COLORS AND LOCATIONS MAY BE DIFFERENT

LET ME KNOW IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW "I" OVERRIDES "ON"---ONLY WHILE CRANKING

THE MEDIC

THE DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT DRIVES THE OIL PUMP-----IS THIS WHAT YOU ARE SPEAKING OF UNDER THE DIST?

THE MEDIC

can the pionts in the distributor be why fire is coming out of carb

IF THE POINTS ARE PROPERLY INSTALLED AND GAPPED---TIMING WOULD MOST LIKELY BE THE REASON FOR IT POPPING BACK THRU THE CARB

IF THE POINTS AIN'T IN RIGHT--THIS COULD CAUSE IMPROPER TIMING

YOU CANT TIME YOUR VEHICLE UNTIL IT WILL RUN.....CHECK YOUR POINTS....DO YOU KNOW HOW?

THE MEDIC

set #1 piston at tdc on compression stroke then drop distributor in with pointer pointing towards #1 on distributor cap. but my starter is falling down due to the wholes on the starter being bigger around than the bolt going through into bellhousing. the head of the bolt is right size but actual circumfrence of bolt is smaller than the circumfrence of the starter whole. allowing the starter to fall down away from the fly wheel. so i cannot turn the motor over but like once before the starter starts to grind again therfore not allowing me to set in time

MR. TRUCK MUST ACTUALLY RUN, TO SET THE TIMING

SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE THE WRONG STARTER........OR YOUR FLYWHEEL TEETH ARE CHEWED UP.......ONE OR THE OTHER.....OR EVEN BOTH!

WHAT ENGINE DO YOU HAVE?

WHAT ARE YOUR INTENTIONS WITH THIS TRUCK?

THE MEDIC

1970 f100 camper special with 6.4 390 and 4 speed tranny. intentions were to get running and trade or sale for something else.

ROGER

WANNA GET OUT CHEAP ....HUH?

SO YOU RECKON IT'S "STARTER TIME"?........WOULD YOU SAY YOU HAVE THE WRONG ONE?

MAYBE YOU CAN GET THIS:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_starter-worldwide_5220106-p?searchTerm=starter

.......FOR MAYBE $10 CHEAPER?

YOU WILL HAVE TO TURN IN THE CORE, TO KEEP FROM IN THE END PAYING ANOTHER $10

I CAN HELP YOU SAVE $40 IF ONLY YOU CAN COME UP WITH ENOUGH AUTO PARTS AND TOOLS TO GET JUST OVER $100 ........OILS DON'T COUNT

SO WHAT I'M SAYING IS....INSTEAD OF ONLY GETTING THE STARTER FOR $10 OFF----YOU CAN BUNDLE MORE STUFF WITH IT (THAT YOU NEED OR WILL NEED IN THE FUTURE) ALL TOTALING BARELY OVER $100------AND PAY ONLY $60 OR SO !!! (DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH YOU GO OVER $100

SURELY, YOU NEED MORE "FIX UP" STUFF FOR IT------IF YOU PASS THE $100 MARK OR EVEN GET UP TO $200-------MAYBE SAVE EVEN MORE!

..............INTERESTED IN THE PROCESS?

THE MEDIC