engine stalls

Are you losing spark or fuel to the engine?

No, I have checked for spark (using a Lisle tool made for the purpose) and I know there is spark. I also have checked for fuel at the carburetor, and i have added a fuel pressure gauge and a fuel pressure regulator in to the fuel line. The engine starts; it simply will not run. Boy, this one is getting to me.

Does the vehicle have a ballast Resistor? When you get back to those years, many manufacturers would have one. How they worked was this. When the key was in the start position, power would bypass the resister to get a hotter spark. Once in the run position, the power was fed through the resistor to cut down on the power and save the points and condenser. I know you changed it to HEI. Something tells me power isn't going to the ignition when you let the key go from start to run.

There is a resistor wire in the circuit from the ignition switch; however, there is no external ballast such as with a Mallory coil. I have run a 12 gauge wire directly from the starter relay on the inner fender to the coil. By the way, it is the starter relay terminal that always is hot when the ignition is switched on, not the one that only is hot while starting the engine. Is this procedure not sufficient?

J&N,

This may help your feller, I'm already set up for the CJs with some explanations, and homemade pics, at this post, that I re-use all of the time
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-ranger-wont-start

The Medic

Thanks so much for the help; it verifies that I indeed have the wiring correct. My next idea: could the neutral safety switch cause this problem? The one in my car is quite worn. I almost always have to jiggle the shift lever just a bit to get to the right spot to start the car. Thanks again for all your help, guys.

Well,...... you say it ain't "Up to Snuff" right now........Replace it......you need to anyway!

The Medic

Does your coil have an internal resistor?

If it does, maybe you need one requiring an external resistance???.......You said you had a resistance wire.......Doubling your "Run" resistance is probably not enough voltage to run it........USING THE WRONG COIL!

If "I" terminal is used with your vehicle, it provides FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE to the coil......until you let go of the key....then NO "BOOST" VOLTAGE is present..................

The Medic

CJ is givving you good advice. Let us know what you find.

Just re-reading your stuff, and processing it different ways---I kinda got confused with this:


I have run a 12 gauge wire directly from the starter relay on the inner fender to the coil. By the way, it is the starter relay terminal that always is hot when the ignition is switched on, not the one that only is hot while starting the engine. Is this procedure not sufficient?


Have you tried this:

You'd have to tie on where your "Run Wire" now is hooking into your new distributor set-up.......I think??????

Positive Battery Post to Positive Coil terminal? Then Crank?

I over kill things, you can omit the inline fuse in my jumper

The Medic

Up Late---Stuck on you!

With a blanket and Fire Extinguisher handy----Do outside

With a can of starter fluid or a spray bottle of fuel, at the ready

Have someone crank him up, and see if you can nurse him along, feeding the carb throat with small amounts of fuel........This might prove or disprove the Carb/ Fuel Factor

The Medic

Guys, I finally got it! It was a wiring problem. As The Medic suggested (many, many, many thanks) I ran a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil. I guess I was a bit too lazy to want to crawl under the dash anymore, but if you're (I'm) going to own a fifty year old car and drive it, I suppose I'd better be prepared to do worse things than that. That allowed the engine to start, but the generator light was on. After a lot of searching and time on the creeper, I finally found a corroded wire connection at the alternator. After repair, voila! I have a tachometer wire to trace, and then I can button things up again. Tremendous thanks to everyone for the spot-on assistance.

Just for giggles, if you still have the wire, test it for resistance.

By the way!.....You owe me lunch!

Takin' one of mine......or Yours?

Post a pic, I'd like to see your rig!

The Medic

CJ:
I love the jeep!!! What year is it?

I post him here, a bunch, figured everybody done seen him by now!

His name is "Willy", my other ('77 CJ5) is "Mr. Jeep"

What kind of distributor did you get and where from? My points keep burning up and I was thinking I need an electronic distributor. Would it sale as one or would I need a conversion kit?

This post may show you all you need to look up/ see

See my answers/ links/ pics in the link below

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1972-volkswagen-beetle-should-intake-manifold-very-hot-touch

Lemme know if you need more info.

Lemme know how it goes!

Is this J & N w/ a new name?

The Medic

No sir I am a new member and I meant to ask the man with the 1960 Ford Falcon where he got his distributor. I have a 1960 Ford ranchero and it has died out on me three times. The first Time I changed the coil and it was fine and the second time I got a new coil and new points and a new cap but it still is having trouble I thought getting a new distributor that was electric and not the original kind with manual points would do the trick. My mechanic suggesting getting an electronic conversion kit from hot sparks or a new distributor that was already electronic. I just don't know where to find one.

So did you see the 'Pertronics' link

Within the link I gave you above?

They have a long list of vehicles they are specifically made for.

See the pics at the end of my conversion on my '46 Willys Jeep?

This system is so EZ to stick in your existing distributor w/ only two wires to the coil.

I love mine!

The Medic