1961 All Other Makes All Other Models Engine will not start

1961 ALL OTHER MAKES ALL OTHER MODELS
6,000 MILES • 2.2L • 4 CYL • 2WD • MANUAL
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GUYGOULD
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This vehicle ran perfectly not long ago. While it was running, it backfired very loudly. Then, it stopped running. I have gone through and replaced many of the external parts and either rebuilt or replaced them, i.e. generator, carburetor (performed before backfire), points and condenser, coil, and regulator. Someone suggested somewhere else that the backfire might have indicated a timing chain problem. It cranks but it doesn't fire up. Do you have any ideas or recommendations?
Jun 5, 2014 at 12:35 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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I have no idea what you are working on but the backfire indicates fuel build-up due to an ignition problem. The backfire was the ignition igniting the accumulated fuel. Cam timing WOULD NOT do this.
Jun 5, 2014 at 6:18 AM
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GUYGOULD
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I'm working with a vintage Massey Harris Ferguson #35 Tractor with a Continental 2.2 engine.. It's a little outside the realm of cars but basically it's a very basic 4 cylinder engine. Please let me know if there is any other information that would be helpful.
Jun 5, 2014 at 7:25 AM
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RACEFAN966
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As you said an engine is and engine. So do you have spark? If so do you have fuel getting to the carburetor? Get back with that and lets see where to go. Also recheck point gap ok.
Jun 5, 2014 at 8:16 AM
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GUYGOULD
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I have tested the connection between the distributor and the spark plugs and there is no spark to any of the plugs. I don't know how to test from there in the other direction. Obviously, the battery is good as it is turning the starter. I don't know about the connections to and from the distributor to the coil to the regulator and parts in between.
Jun 6, 2014 at 9:00 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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You can use an LED type test light to check for coil pulse. Clip the wire to the positive battery terminal and touch the probe to the (-) side of the coil while a helper cranks the engine. The light should flash.
Jun 6, 2014 at 11:58 AM
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GUYGOULD
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Performed this test. The result: the test light remains lit without flashing with the key on or off and while the start button is pushed. What should I do next?
Jun 7, 2014 at 11:47 AM
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GUYGOULD
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Okay. I used a continuity tester for the previous result. After using a circuit tester, I found there was no flash. I checked the tester on the battery terminals to be sure it was in working order.
Jun 7, 2014 at 12:10 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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The only part we are interested in is during cranking. If it still didn't flash, you have a problem in the distributor. Make sure the rotor is actually turning. If it is, then you likely have a problem with the points.
Jun 7, 2014 at 12:12 PM
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GUYGOULD
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The rotor turns. I recently put in a new set points and condenser. What should I do next?
Jun 7, 2014 at 12:34 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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Make sure you have power at the (+) side of the col wit the key on and if you do, find your problem in the distributor.
Jun 7, 2014 at 1:39 PM
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GUYGOULD
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When you suggested to use an LED type test light to check for coil pulse. Clip the wire to the positive battery terminal and touch the probe to the (-) side of the coil while a helper cranks the engine. The light should flash.

There was no flash. Isn't that the step that would have indicated whether there was power? I would have thought that no flash = no power.
Jun 7, 2014 at 1:59 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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You were testing for pulsing ground. The constant power is applied to the other side of the coil. That is why I told you to put the clip on the positive side of the battery. You were testing for ground, not power.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:09 PM
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GUYGOULD
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Okay. I understand. I tested the power to the positive terminal of the coil by removing the wire connection from the terminal and clipping the circuit tester to the wire and touching it to the positive terminal on the coil. I turned on the key. The circuit tester did not light up? Is that a sufficient test for that?
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:20 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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No, that's not how you test for power.
You clip the wire to ground and touch the probe to the positive side with the key on and the light should light up. You don't have to disconnect any wires. Seriously, if you are have trouble with real basic power testing, you may never find this issue and will likely need a shop to diagnose it for you.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:25 PM
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GUYGOULD
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1) There's no power. 2) If I could get this thing to a shop, I would. It would be much faster.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:32 PM
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GUYGOULD
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Okay. I sounds like you need more money donated for me to get to the end of this problem. How can I donate more money.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:43 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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Well, this is where you are going to need a wiring diagram to determine where that power comes from. It passes through the ignition switch to get there but the issue could be before or after the switch or the switch itself. I would start out check all fuses and fusible links.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:44 PM
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GUYGOULD
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There aren't any fuses on this vehicle that I'm aware of.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:46 PM
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GUYGOULD
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I'm going to go look again.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:46 PM
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GUYGOULD
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There are no fuses. There's a regulator and switches but that's it.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:48 PM
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GUYGOULD
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Correction, there is a regulator and the ignition switch.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:50 PM
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GUYGOULD
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Here is the wiring diagram.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:54 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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There HAS to be fuses. You can have an electrical circuit without protection. Donating more money isn't going to get this done. I am not there and there is only so much I can do from the Internet.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:55 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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That's a pretty crude diagram with no colors, connectors or fuses but it said the coil is powered directly from the ignition switch.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:58 PM
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GUYGOULD
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The only in line fuse there is is for the lights.
Jun 7, 2014 at 2:58 PM
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GUYGOULD
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I'm lucky to have that much. These things don't have to many records or books.
Jun 7, 2014 at 3:01 PM
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GUYGOULD
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I have replaced the ignition switch and I'm following the schematic to reconnect all of the wiring to be sure its going to the right place and doing what they're supposed to be doing.
Jun 7, 2014 at 5:09 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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You need to be testing wiring, not changing parts that you don't know to be bad.
Jun 7, 2014 at 5:12 PM
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GUYGOULD
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I went through the wiring. I replaced it all. I finally got power to the points. There had to be a short somewhere. I had to reset the gap to the points. Once I got everything tightened up. I fired right up. Man this has been aggravating but that's what I get for running 50 year old equipment. All that I have to do now is get the idle set right and things will be golden again. Thanks for helping me narrow it down.
Jun 8, 2014 at 2:43 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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You're welcome
Jun 8, 2014 at 2:50 PM