Fans will not come on during warm up or driving, coolant is bubbling and steam shooting out the reservoir

We need to start with testing for a head gasket failure. Based on everything you said, I am very confident that this is the issue.

Here is a guide that walks through how to do this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

I went ahead and attached the process for the head if this proves out.

Let me know what questions you have. Thanks

okay, It looks like someone changed from an awp to an awm engine. My question is, what how is the block? Does the block crack on these cars fairly easy and is there a free way or a trick to find out if the block is broke before i began to tear down this engine?

I had just purchased this car and i was driving on a cold day (20 degrees), i am also not sure if the coolant was properly mixed or if i was running distilled water. it looked like pink coolant maybe 70/30.

There is no easy way to check for a cracked block other then tearing it down and look for it. However, the symptoms of this are overheating, smoking, oil and coolant mixing, and poor performance.

However, we need to do a head gasket test with the chemical shown in the picture. It will show a cracked block as well if it is allowing hydrocarbons in the coolant. This detail is at the bottom of this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Can these same symptoms come from an broken dipstick holder?

Can you get a picture of how it is broken and I can confirm this? but I don't see a way that it would cause what you are seeing. However, seeing it will help me better understand if this is possible. Thanks

I took the valve cover off yesterday and while turning the engine to TDC it whistles or released air. The head is filled with this milky oil/water mixture.

This is what came out with the oil just now.

Yeah. That isn't good. That is oil and coolant mixing. Most likely you have had an overheat due to the fans not coming on and the head is warped which allows the oil and coolant to mix. Here is a guide that goes through this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolantantifreeze-in-the-engine-oil

Next step is to confirm this. You can do that with a compression test or pressurizing the cooling system and see if you hear air coming from the valve cover. A compression test is more definitive as it will also tell you which cylinders are the potential issue.

Here is a guide on how we need to do this as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Sorry this happened but unfortunately I suspect this is going to be a pretty tough repair. Let's start with checking compression and going from there. Thanks

https://youtu.be/1gmLNN38XSw

Yes, the oil cooler could cause this as well but if your oil is completely mixed with coolant then you will have this same milky mess in the filter as well which doesn't necessarily mean the cooler is failed. If you are going to replace the cooler, I would just double check the cooling system holds pressure and run a compression check before you put to many miles on it. The only reason I say this is because of the heading you listed on this post which was it was steaming and bubbling the coolant due to the fans not coming on. The bubbling coolant is normally from excess pressure in the system which is normally compression gases due to a head gasket issue.

Thanks for the update. Please keep us posted and hopefully the cooler is it because that is a much easier and cheaper fix. Thanks

Okay. So good morning.

Here we go. On the air filter side of the engine there is a dried like residue of orange stuff. See picture of flange and sensor. That side of the engine looks dehydrated.

The oil cooler had g13 inside both sides the same color as what I just filled the tank with when I changed the radiator and the first color that came out before the milkshake frothy stuff.

Could a bad oil coolers cause this?

Also I found a loose bolt on my intake manifold and 3 loose bolts and a broken screw on the valve body.

Could these items cause a p300 and p304 code?

Wow.

So putting all this together, someone started working on this vehicle and gave up and sold it. The fact that you found loose bolts and a broken bolt is all the proof we need for that.

As for fixing this, I suspect the low compression on cylinder 4 is causing the misfire codes.

The milky coolant/oil could be caused by the oil cooler but when you add all the other items in I suspect it is a head gasket issue. Namely the bubbling coolant. That is indicative of a head gasket issue because it is compression gases in the coolant. You have pretty much already confirmed this when you ran the compression check and found low compression on that cylinder. So at this point you need to do a cylinder leakage test to confirm the pressure is escaping through the cooling system. If that is the case, I think you found loose bolts because someone started to fix this but gave up and put it back together and sold it.

Update:

I started it, after a quick jump. It screamed and danced. But mostly danced. No bubbles in coolant. But 2 misfires that had the engine shaking. Rocking.

There are several loose bolts on the valve cover. Code p300 p303 and p304. The loose bolt is between 3 and 4.

Lots of screeching settles to the thumping.

I turned it off.

Then I noticed a leak of coolant on the ground, under the middle of the car.

We may want to re-run the compression check and do a cylinder leakage test on any cylinder that is low.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Loose bolts on the valve cover most likely will not cause a misfire but low compression will and it appears you had low compression on 4 before so we will want to confirm this is still the case and then the leakage test will tell us where we are loosing the compression. Thanks for the update.